Climbs 200
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 3220m a.s.l
Faces all

Evening light on the North Face of Monte Civetta. © James Rushforth

Crag features

Monte Civetta is shaped like an inverted Y with the Torre di Coldai at the NE end and Torre Trieste forming the SW end. There are many pinnacles and ridges in-between. The routes up the central North facing wall are all universally long and serious propositions. Ice can be encountered in the gullies and chimneys throughout the summer and the rock isnt all that solid. Here they have been represented by the local trad grad but it would be fair to give most of them a mountaineering grade. For those looking for something slightly less serious (though still not to be underestimated) the Via Ferrata Alleghesi (VF4C) is not to be missed.

By contrast Moiazza to the South separated by Forcella delle Sasse offers sunny climbing on good rock with easy approaches and descents.

In the winter its well worth a trip to the flanks of Torre di Coldai to climb the two spectacular icefalls Paperoga (WI3+) and Hypercoldai (WI4).

Approach notes

Monte Civetta can be accessed from either Alleghe to the North or from Pecol to the East depending upon the itinery.

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Torre di Coldai (2600m)
2 North-North-West Face (Direct route)
-
IV+  
3 Paperoga
-
WI-3+ ***  
4 Hypercoldai
-
WI-4 *** 1
  Torre d'Alleghe (2649m)
6 East Face
-
IV  
7 North-West Face of North Pillar
-
VII-  
8 North-West Face of South Pillar
-
VII a0  
9 South-West Face
-
V+  
  Torre di Valgrande (2715m)
11 North-East Pillar
-
IV+  
12 North-West Face
-
VII+  
13 South Face (Via Delle Guide)
-
VII  
  Pan di Zucchero (2780m)
15 East Face (Pan di Zucchero)
-
V+  
16 North-West & North Face
-
V+  
  Punta Civetta (2920m)
18 North-West Face (Andrich)
-
VI  
19 North-West Face (Aste)
-
VI+  
  Punta Tissi (2992m)
21 North-West Face (Philipp-Flamm)
-
VII *** 3
  Monte Civetta (3220m)
23 Normal Route from East
-
II  
24 Via Ferrata Alleghesi VF4C *** 8
25 Via Ferrata Attilio Tissi
-
VF4C ** 3
26 North-West Face (Comici)
-
VI ***  
27 North-West Face (Friends Route)
-
V+ a2 **  
28 North-West Face (Solleder) V+ ***  
  Cima Su Alto (2951m)
30 North-West Face (Livanos Diedre)
-
VII  
31 North-West Face (Ratti)
-
V+ ***  
  Cima della Terranova (2900m)
33 North-West Face (Livanos)
-
VI a2 *  
  Campanile di Brabante (2252m)
35 North-West Ridge
-
VI-  
  Guglia della XLIII Legione Alpina Piave (2702m)
37 North-East & North-West Face
-
V  
38 South-East Ridge
-
V-  
  Anticima (2245m)
40 West-North-West Face Direct
-
IV+  
  Punta Agordo (2290m)
42 West Face (Agordo Diedre)
-
IV+ * 4
  Torre Venezia (2337m)
44 West Face
-
IV ** 4
45 South-West Arete
-
V+ *** 2
46 South-South-West Face
-
V+ **  
47 Andrich Fae VS ** 3
48 South Face Direct (Tissi)
-
VI- *** 17
  Cima del Bancon (2346m)
50 East Face (Da Roit)
-
VII- *  
  Torre di Babele (2310m)
52 South Arete (Solda)
-
VI- 5
53 East Face (Goedeke)
-
VI+ *  
  Cima della Busazza (2894m)
55 West Face (Gilberti)
-
V+ ***  
  Castello della Busazza (2592m)
57 South Face
-
V+  
  Torre Trieste (2458m)
59 West Ridge
-
VI- ***  
60 South Face (Carlesso)
-
VIII- ***  
61 South-East Ridge (Cassin)
-
VII+ *** 8
  Scalet delle Masenade (2147m)
63 South-South-West Face (Via Decima)
-
V *** 3
  Pala delle Masenade (2413m)
65 South-East Face (Solda)
-
VI 2
66 South-East Face (Bonetti Crack)
-
VII  
67 South Face "Colatoio Nero" - Pala delle Masenade
-
V+ 1
  Pala del Belia (2295m)
69 South-East Face (Soraru Arete)
-
V+  
  Croda Paola
71 South Face (Benvegnu)
-
VI- *  
72 South-East Arete (Solda)
-
V+  
  Torre Jolanda (2403m)
74 South-West Arete (Via Topo)
-
IV+ **  
75 South Face (Via Super Soro)
-
V ***  
  Sasso di Caleda (2132m)
77 South-West Arete (Benvegnu)
-
VII- **  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth