Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 130m a.s.l
The picturesque crag of Under Rockes © Emma Harrington
Small and secluded, the main feature being an 8m high wall with large square potholes cut into it at some time in the past, probably from a building that once existed here. The best routes are in this area. A few 4a/4b but mainly English 5b/c and above. Best in spring and autumn when leaves are fewest, but can be OK year-round. A good place to escape the crowds.
NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
Lies 500m due North of Butcher's Cross and S of Argos Hill.
Heading North on the A267 from Five Ashes, the road bends right at Butcher's Cross and Horleigh Green Road heads off in a north easterly direction. Follow this for 800m to just before a junction on the right signposted Mayfield 1 1/4. The house on the right is called Twitts Ghyll - (there's a new sign!).
Alternatively head south west out of Rotherfield on the Mayfield road. Fork left (down the hill) 800m after leaving the southern end of the village. Follow Five Ashes road for 1800m where a junction with Fir Toll road (signposted Mayfield 1 1/4) is found on the left. The house by the junction is called Twitts Ghyll.
Park opposite the junction on a grassy area (pull off the road and do NOT park in front of the house!!!).
On the opposite side of the road to Twitt's Ghyll, a footpath leads west past an old gate and then for approx. 400m to an old metal harrow on the left. The path turns south just past the harrow and it is possible to step over the fence on the right and head south-east across the field for 150m to the corner of a wooded area. A stile then a footpath runs west through the wood and the rocks appear shortly on the right. The firth buttress on the right has Lamplight and No Ghosts on it. A bit further on you reach another buttress with Dark Crack and a few more feet you reach the potholed wall.
The rope swing has broken a few legs and ankles!
There are further low and overgrown buttresses further downstream...
|Far Left Buttress|
|2||Steve and Dave slept with the Hubers||
|3||Bruce isn't Calling||
|4||Young People Today||
|5||James Glover Esquire||
|6||Inner State Secondary||
|9||Battery Wall||none 4a||2|
|11||Wide Crack||2a 2a||2|
|12||Birthday Buttress||6c 6a|
|13||The 13th Light||6c 6a *||1|
|14||Lionheart||6c+ 6a ***||25|
|15||Over the Hill||6c 6a **||8|
|16||Uganda Wall||6b+ 5c ***||61|
|17||Magic Pebble||6c 5c *||35|
|18||Fireball||6b+ 5c ***||31|
|19||Dogs of War||6c 6a *||9|
|20||In One Hole...||6c 6a **||16|
|21||Central Crack||6b 5c ***||47|
|23||The Touch||6b 5c *||16|
|24||The Alien Succumbs...||6b+ 5c||8|
|25||Evening Arete||6a 5b **||50|
|26||Hear No Evil||5b 5a *||16|
|27||Speak No Evil||5b 5a|
|28||See No Evil||4c 4c *||2|
|29||Channelsea Crack||3a 3a||2|
|Dark Crack Buttress|
|31||Outfall Crack||6c 6a *|
|32||What the Buck||6c 6a *|
|33||Anything Goes||6c+ 6a|
|34||Rapunzel||6b 5c *|
|35||Bow Locks||6b+ 5c|
|37||Meridian Direct||7a+ 6b *|
|38||Meridian||7a 6b **|
|39||Funnel Web||7b 6b *|
|40||Dark Crack||6c 5c **||6|
|41||One Up All Up, Except Mat||7a 6a *|
|42||Peregrine||6a 5b **||1|
|46||The Waltzing Buzzard||6b 5c||1|
|47||Trouble with Rubble||6a 5b *||6|
|49||Down the Hatch||5b 5a *||1|
|50||Departure Slab||4a 4a||4|
|52||Easter Crack||2b 2b||2|
|53||Lamplight||6a 5b *||6|
|54||Rogers Wall||6a 5b *||9|
|55||Wind and Wuthering||6b 5c||1|
|59||Girdle Traverse||none 5b **||4|
|60||The Apex (High Traverse)||none 6a ns *|