UKC

Climbs 83
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces NE

brixton climber in south sandstone. bulls hollow © brixton climber

Crag features

Up to 8m in height, soft under foot in places at the base and some fragile holds. Secluded and shaded, and hence slower to come into condition, but a change from the bigger places if you're in the area.

The Sandstone Volunteers Group cleared the crag in 2003 and it is now much more open.

Many climbs have bolts above but you will need a second static rope to ensure your belay karabiner extends over the edge of the crag to avoid damage from moving ropes. A carpet sample is crucial to clean your feet before climbing & thereby avoid further damage to the rock.

Approach notes

NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 towards E. Grinstead along the N side of Tun Wells common. 300m after the Spa Hotel turn R into Rusthall Road and after 150m, R again into Harmony Street (signpost Toad Rock). The road bends right and then left at a junction with Rusthall Park. The crag is in the wood gained by following the track heading south east from this junction for 100m.
Parking available on the road by Toad Rock further down Harmony Street. Please do not park in Rusthall Park.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Southern Sandstone Climbs

The Southern Sandstone Rockfax covers the climbing situated in the Southeast of England on the borders of Kent and East Sussex.The book covers the climbing and bouldering in the usual Rockfax style - big full-colour photo-topos, detailed maps and full text descriptions - all lavishly supported by some great action photography.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Southern Sandstone (2008)
There are various wasps nests this season, be warned!
alan1234 - 06/Jul/11
lovely day on the 14th april.The start are alwayse slimy, that make the place so untertaining. i love it.
brixton climber - 15/May/07
Short way from tunbridge wells station, good for perfecting sandstone technique, although a bit slimy early in the season/ easy to help beginnners.
SLewis - 20/Apr/06
May 2005 - Coming nicely into condition. Many repeats of routes not climbed for years!
Graham Ad - 12/May/05
The crag has been cleaned and is now very climbable.. More traffic is needed to remove the last of the slime Volunteers?
A>croft - 10/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Waistline to Yew Wall
2 Waistline 5a 5a * 4
3 Bulging Waistline 6c 6a *  
4 Callum 6c+ 6a  
5 Broken Crack 3a 3a 7
6 The Chasm 3b 3b 5
7 Ferne 6a+ 5b  
8 Uncertainty 6b 5c  
9 Tree Climb 3a 3a 5
10 Sandcastle 6b+ 5c  
11 Yew Wall 6b 5c * 2
12 Poltergeist 6b+ 5c * 2
13 Yellowstone Wall 3b 3b 9
  Taurus Wall to Apis
15 yellowstone crack 4b 4b 7
16 Taurus 6b 5b  
17 Minotaur 6c+ 6a  
18 Memorialize 7a+ 6b *  
19 Bridge Crack
-
none 4b 4
20 The Scoop 6c+ 6a * 3
21 Possibility Wall 4b 4b * 37
22 Impossibility 6a 5b * 7
23 Sentry Box Arete 6a 5b  
24 Achtung! 5b 5a  
25 Sentry Box 4b 4b 4
26 Yew Break
-
none 1a 2
27 The Tarnished Victory none 5c * 2
28 Trident Arete 3a 3a 3
29 Neptune Arete 4a 4a 3
30 Trident Arete 3a 3a 10
31 Trident Chimney 3a 3a 10
Climb name Grade
32 Apis Poor Variation 6b+ 5c  
33 Apis Variation 6b 5c  
34 Apis 4b 4b 16
35 Moss 6a+ 5b  
36 Cellar Wall
-
none 2a 3
37 Coal Cellar none 2a 19
  Conway's Buttress
39 Blasphemy 4a 4a 11
40 Solo 4b 4b 21
41 The Buzzard and the Purple Fish 6c+ 6a  
42 Solo Right Hand 4b 4b 1
43 Conway's Variation 3b 3b * 26
44 Newman's ArĂȘte 4c 4c 2
45 Conway's Buttress 3b 3b * 32
46 Conway's Direct 3c 3c *  
47 Conway's Crack 4b 4b ** 78
48 Hanging Crack 6b+ 5c * 2
  The Wall
50 Bramble Corner 4c 4c ** 62
51 Knott 6b+ 5c ** 30
52 The Shield 6c+ 6a *** 4
53 The Wall 6c 5c *** 32
54 Caesar 6c 5c *  
55 Centurion's Groove 4c 4c ** 73
56 Squeak Ya Heel Cups 7a 6b  
57 Pseudonym 6c+ 6a ** 16
58 Pseudonym Right-hand 6c+ 6a *  
59 Broken Nose 6b+ 5c 28
  Slab Chimney
61 Cauliflower Ear 6c 5c **  
62 Slab Chimney 4a 4a * 11
Climb name Grade
63 Slab Variant 5a 4c ** 63
64 Time Waits for No One 7b+ 6b **  
65 Full Moon 6a+ 5a ** 18
66 Eyewash 6b 5b  
67 Triangle Arete 6a 5b 5
  Gangway Wall
69 Triangle Climb 3a 3a 10
70 Too Hot to Handle 6c+ 6a  
71 Handle with Care 6c 6a * 1
72 Crossply 6b 5b ** 8
73 The Bitch and the Meal Ticket 6b 5c 1
74 Gangway Wall 3a 3a ** 29
75 Square cut 6b+ 5c ** 2
76 Overhanging crack 4c 4c 7
77 Sandy Wall 6a+ 5b 2
78 Avalanche Arete 6c 6a  
79 Fortuitous 6b+ 5c  
80 Avalanche Route 3a 3a 3
81 The Burglar and the Carving Knife 6a+ 5b  
82 Birch Tree Wall 3b 3b 6
83 Birch Tree Buttress 3b 3b 7
  Toad Wall and Stephen's Rock
85 Toad Wall Left-Hand f2+  
86 Toad Wall f2+ * 8
87 Toad Arete f4 4
88 Turkey Breast and Gravy f2+  
89 Stephen Goes to McDonald's in the Batmobile f4+  
  Traverse
91 Girdle Traverse
-
none 6a *  

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