Climbs 89
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 737m a.s.l
Faces S

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Pete Climbing in the shade near Buis les Baronnies © Aaron Tonks

Crag features

Ax-les-Thermes is a pleasant town tucked in the folds of the mountains where the road starts to head resolutely up towards Andorra. Ax has a few shops, some great spas, skiing in the season and a couple of crags that are worth a visit if you are passing through. Work on a by-pass has been on-going for several years - but appears to have stalled. If it is ever opened it should free up the town centre from the heavy summer traffic. There are three areas of interest: the Rocher de la Galline (often referred to as Sector Piscine) is in the town and only minutes from the road. On the same side of the valley is the slightly more remote (15 minutes walk-in) Sector Entreserres. On the opposite side of the valley and close to the ski area, is Sector Bonascre, which receives morning sunshine and is reached by a short downhill walk.

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Guidebooks

France : Ariege

The Ariège region of Southern France is the compact area where the Ariège River cuts through the Pyrenées on its way from Andorra to the coast. There is a lot of high quality climbing in the area with a superb variety of rock types to go at; from the soaring granite slabs of the Dent d’Orlu, to the steep limestone bulges of Génat. Limestone, granite and gneiss are on offer and routes vary in size from boulder problems to long epics of over 20 pitches. The area has a long and intriguing history and offers plenty to do apart from the climbing, including mountain walking, caving, river rafting, skiing and checking out the many ancient castles. Factor in the year-round climbing, easy access from northern Europe and plenty of high quality accommodation in the area and it is easy to see that the Ariège region has lots to offer. This guidebook covers all the major climbs on the crags covered. It details sport routes and longer mountain trad. There are also sections on mountain walks and other activities.
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The Grand Dalle of the Piscine crag provides some enjoyable routes in the easier grades. However, some of the grades in Rockfax don't make much sense to me, including a very easy (3+) given 4b and the first pitch, first part of a route given 4a when the first few moves are at least 5b. And there's more.
Rog Wilko - 18/Sep/19
A surprising pleasant venue despite its proximity to the town. I can't track down a topo online, but if you go armed with the list of routes above, you will likely find your way around OK. Several of the routes in the centre of the main slab have halfway lower offs - the bottom sections are generally in the F3+ to F4+ range.
Mark Bull - 28/Oct/12
A visit in Oct '12 found this crag mossy, lichenous and looking generally unloved. Maybe it is better in the height of summer, but otherwise I would recommend going to the Piscine crag http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10544 instead.
Mark Bull - 28/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rocher de la Galline - Sector St Udaut - SW Face
2 Tête en l'air 4a * 16
3 Amoureux 5a * 18
4 Une émotion légère 4c * 23
5 Emporté par le vent 4a * 20
6 Je plane dans les étoiles 3c * 12
  Rocher de la Galline - Sector St Udaut - E Face
8 À vue pour les aveugles
-
5c  
9 L'enfer des tentes
-
6b  
10 Money
-
6a  
  Piscine - La Grande Dalle
12 Sept étonnant 7b *  
13 Antoine 6a+ * 6
14 Bien joué Philou 6a *** 45
15 Saint Sat 5c *** 41
16 Six trouilles 6b * 8
17 Nouvelle (No Name in local topo) 5a ** 37
18 Fissures (No Name in Local Topo) 5c ** 52
19 Second souffle 4c ** 46
20 Premier mouvement (No Name in Local Topo) 4a * 38
21 Demi Lune (No Name in Local Topo) 4b * 3
22 Philomène 3 à 0 5c ** 35
23 Nouvelles profiteroles 6a ** 42
24 Les Ax trop gros 6a * 22
25 L'opèra de quat'sup 4c ** 21
26 Quinze (No Name in Local Topo) 5a * 8
27 Quinze Droite (No Name in Local Topo) 4b * 2
28 Seize (No Name in Local Topo) 5a * 6
  Piscine - Petite Dalle de droite
30 Trafic blue 4c * 21
31 Rousse cassis 4c * 9
32 Lifting 6b 3
33 Boris...que péril 4c * 14
Climb name Grade
  Piscine - Sector PGM
35 Bonzai bis 6a  
36 Bonzaï-bonzoeil
-
6b+  
37 Voie du P
-
6a  
38 Voie du G
-
6a+  
39 Voie du M 6b  
40 Grillon 5c ** 2
41 Placide 5a ** 4
42 Muso 5a ** 2
43 Ax les crèmes 6a ** 1
44 M Integral 5a ** 1
45 'M' 4c ** 3
46 Last but one 4b * 4
47 Last 4a * 2
  Ax Les Thermes - Entreserres
49 Un 5c 1
50 Deux 6b * 3
51 Trois 5a 5
52 Quatre 6c * 1
53 Cinq 6b+ **  
54 Sebit 5c ** 9
55 Dancing des boniches 5c * 10
56 Stationnement génant 6a+ * 4
57 Piaule à moustique 5c ** 5
58 Piaule / Pieds 5c *** 4
59 Pieds Nickelés 5c ** 13
60 Le retour 2 6a+ *  
  Sector Entreserres - Upper Tier
62 Castor 6a *  
63 Pollux 5c * 1
64 Bac-2 6b  
65 Bac +2 4a *  
66 Six sur A 6a * 1
Climb name Grade
67 La balade dure 6b * 1
68 Le CIP kangourou 5c * 1
69 Quatre C 4c 2
70 Technique de mur 5c  
71 Technique de dalle 5c * 4
72 Bébert show 4c * 4
73 Bébert froid 4a * 1
  Ax Bonascre
  Mur d'Oc
76 Profil lactique 6a  
77 En attendant Godof 7a+ 1
78 D'ici Dent d'Orlu 7b 1
79 Axiomatisation 6b * 2
  Rocher de Baou
81 Un long fleuve tranquille 6a  
82 Woodstock 6a *  
83 Enfer et damnation 6c ** 2
84 Pas d'anthologie 6b+ ** 2
85 Pevers pépère 6a+ ** 4
86 Toto mania 5c  
87 Voie du 14 juillet
-
A1  
88 Abraracourcix 5c ** 2
89 Que dalle qui m'aille (variante) 6a 1
90 Que dalle qui m'aille 6a ** 4
91 Dernière valse 6a+ *** 2
92 Furax 7c *  
93 Pinard obligatoire 7c ** 2
94 Variante des Noïs 6a ** 1
95 Les Noïs 6a ** 5
96 Ganchous Cambos 5a * 2
97 Achille Stallone 7a  
98 Coconut
-
5c  
99 Megamousse 3c 1

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