Climbs 276
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Ewan sizes up a solo of The Knife © Will Hunt

Crag features

Marvellous bouldering (if you have the head for it) on vertical faces up to 50ft (but down to 10ft too). Holds usually well-chalked but toprope recommended for longer ones. Do extend the belay if you use one to avoid eroding the rock.
Locals think it the best bouldering venue in the country. Walls face all aspects. The rock is usually of good quality and not given to large holds; climbing here breeds strong fingers! Routes are usually soloed or top roped. Although a resurgence in leading the routes has occurred in recent years. If you are going to lead remember that sandstone is soft and gear can blow, damaging holds and routes.
The quarry does get a little damp in the winter, though some areas remain unaffected and others dry quickly, allowing year-round climbing by the dedicated and addicted. Midges and mosquitoes can be distracting on humid, windless summer nights.
Grades go from 3a to 7a (English), with lots to play on in the 5a - 6b range. The grades here reflect those negotiated for the new definitive guide. V grades kind of stop when things get high and leading becomes a possibility. These grades are for in the main; Head Point Leads. If you are lucky to meet one of the locals whilst you are there who goes by the name of 'Buzz', you will have the benefit of ticking a BUZZ POINT ascent of your route, you will know what this when it happens.
Classics include; Hart's Arete, The Web, The Rack, The Knife, Dateline and Black Magic.
There is an almost never ending list of Eliminates and micro problems, with lots of 'you can't use that' or 'that's on the next route'. Hence some of the grades may feel a little over graded. (try it next time but without the massive hold off the previous route)
There are numerous traverses, from the easy (3a) to the improbable (6c) and bouldering in a similar range (up to 7a).
The quarry is owned by the water board which request that the railings at the top of the quarry are not used for belays. Occasional groups of scouts abseil down the Dateline wall to add local colour to the place.
An extensive programme of vegetation management by United Utilities has recently allowed the sun to reach walls that were becoming dank and dark. United Utilities wants to continue without vigilante action by climbers. Respect their wishes.
Some grades have been marked as XS this is simply because the are down right horrible and green and only recorded for historical reasons. If you want to climb these them some time and effort is needed to clean them before hand.
A small note on cleaning; covering damp / wet / dirty / slimy holds with copius amount of chalk does not clean them. In fact it produces a rather horrible paste that actually 'polishes' holds. Think of it like a rock Brasso. To clean them; use your beer towel (other types of towel will do)to dry off the hold and remove wet crud, then toothbrush *NOT* wire brush holds to finish. Chalk is for your hands.
Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering Maps can be found at the links below. Please follow instructions that accompany the photo when submitting new problems.
Lady Jane Eliminate Map 1 Unicorn to Hart's Arete. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203765

Some nice Beta video's http://vimeo.com/65447814

Approach notes

M62 junction 7, head S on the A569. Turn R after 0.7mi onto the A5080. After 400m a Sixth Form College is passed on the L and almost immediately some old green gateposts can be seen on the R. Go up the track between these (beware speed bumps) to parking at the top of the track.
Exit car park via pedestrian gate and walk downhill and rightwards until the green railings surrounding the quarry can be seen. Follow these left or right to enter the quarry at its lowest point. 5 min walk.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Return trip after a few years away. Two things shocked me: the whole place has tilted up by a couple of degrees. Leading the dateline no longer relieves tension. A crag clean up too far I fear.
steveriley - 16/Jun/15
still a cracking crag, needs more love and attention.And cleaning now the trees are gone. Ps has somebody chipped breakaway or has it always been like that? I can't remember its so long since I was on it.
hueco - 20/Apr/15
This is where I experienced rock climbing for the very first time some 33 years ago. For the sake of nostalgia I often pay it a visit when I pop over from Australia, my current home. I did this in April 2014 and can only say it was squalid. Garbage and broken glass everywhere and the bin at the car park by the observatory overflowing with bags of dog shit. The smell was overpowering. What a shame.
Karl Bromelow - 28/Apr/14
I live down the road from pex hill, and it's true you do sometimes get groups of kids drinking up there, but only if you're there quite late and on a friday-sunday, i've only climbed there once but i walk the dog up there and it's normally very quiet.
Drumguru1 - 24/Jan/13
Last but one visit I saw a Kestrel catch something in the bottom of the quarry and eat it on a small ledge near the top of Dateline. No-one else there as it was a rather damp evening, not entirely urban squalor!
harold walmsley - 20/Jul/12
Climb here all the time, it's a nice quiet place to go and climb. Needs a little bit of a clean up though down in the Quarry maybe one day we will get a little cleaning up session going on down there, with the people that use it and make it a nice clean place to going and climb for all of out fellow climbers :D who's up for it ??
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
Ignore the comments about people getting rocks thrown at them. This has never happened to me. Never had anything stolen from there either but keep an eye on the valuables just in case, or better still leave them at home. There's not that much litter about either, true that it's worse than most crags but the often mentioned fields of broken glass don't actually exist.
Will Hunt - 17/Jan/09
Yea it's Widnes not Liverpool. I live just down the road and would hate to think that I live in such an armpit. That said it may as well be, what with the local youths knocking about throwing rocks at the climbers. If you catch her on a good day then you can have a bomber day at Pex other wise your just gonna get stoned (and not in the good way.) An excelent place for honing finger strength and tech.
Quixos - 09/Dec/08
Just a note that Widnes is not in Liverpool (I am from the next town across) - but true there is little to do for the young people, still no excuse to be making a mess though! Scooperman - I'll be home in the summer months for some climbing - may see you around?
Krusty162002 - 04/Feb/08
Any climbers around pex hill, i'm 17, and a local of Cronton, wondering if you guys go regularly, as i'm looking to start learning how to climb properly. Mainly for pekkie, as i'd probably recognize you anyway.
scooperman - 19/Jan/08
I some times wonder about people, its in the middle of liverpool! what do you want the kids to stay away, for young kids growing up on estates and that, this is a paradise play ground. no i am not sicking up for them, as its angers me to thats they cant keep there emptys, but thats life, its in a city, people are way to used to the hills ect... so when coming to this crag they see littler and think "oh no" when you should be thinkin, "well i cant compare it to north wales, as its in liverpool" does that make sense....
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
Nice place to bolder, unfortunately the local kids seem to take great pleasure in going up to the edge of the quarry getting drunk and launching their empty's into the quarry, so now the vast majority of the quarry floor is covered in glass and litter. If you dont have a boldering mat i would advise against going here, as dropping off the wall onto the floor can result in glass going straight through your rock shoes. Again a real shame about this area, i dont think i'll be venturing here again until something is done about the vandels.
deltamatt71 - 10/Sep/07
Nice pic of staminade...but don't forget this was soled in 1989!! Anyone out there repeated it?
Parker550 - 01/Dec/06
Hi, I went climbing at Pex Hill for the first time in 10 years. There are still some great routes there but you need to beware. On arrival we met a climber that had just had is wallet stolen from his rucksack. It appears that a bloke and his very young daughter were sat at the bottom watching them climb. They think that he saw the wallet being zipped into a pocket on the rucksack and while the climber was climbing they had away with the wallet. There were also a couple of groups of mid-teenage lads hanging around. Throwing rocks and generally making a noise and making it difficult to concentrate on the climbing. Shame really.
spacedog21 - 12/Sep/06
Phil yer messer, telling stories there? Pex is a great place, great for homing talents and generating better finger strength, giveit a try...
Jamie - 18/Feb/06
I have been climbing for many years.Pex is a happy go lucky type of crag good for finger strength and technique good to camp for locals are willing to share there marijuana and cronton girls.So come and make a night of it and climb of the morning
Phill baker - 23/Jan/06
I added a few comments against some of the routes, myself and chris hunter were fairly active at pexy in the early 70's, i actually lent phil davidson my eb's to try a route when he turned up after school with a mate. we did loads of stuff and some of the naming of routes, i am the rob on the back wall, kev and rob about 2 thirds up. pex hill is definately one of the best little crags in the world. robbie mallinson
robbie mallinson - 21/Jan/06
omg never seen anything better, best bloody climbs for miles i have to agree THE DOGS BOLLOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nolo - 15/Jan/06
its for people who don't like heights and is home to hippies and glue sniffers
helen - 14/Nov/05
Fantastic training and so much better than an indoor wall on a summers evening. Not much there that is easy.
Richard Bradley - 03/Aug/05
Spent 30 years of my life climbing at Pex Hill - right on my doorstep. That's where the name Pekkie comes from! Tried to correct errors and provide historical context - see my comments on individual routes. This is a great crag - very good for technique and finger strength. Dries out quickly too. Does need regular cleaning and pruning back of brambles and gorse. Volunteers welcome!
Pekkie - 16/Jul/05
Totally fcukin awesome. Nuff said...
Original Party Boy - 17/Jun/05
Heaven is a hole in the ground. One of the best bouldering/soloing venues in the land. Awesome for your footwork, balance and finger strength. If you think your good at slabs then try Monoblock.....
andy farnell - 31/Mar/03
THE DOGS BOLLOCKS, best crag on earth all those who never climb here should be flogged
666DENVER666 - 10/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Traverses
2 The Grand Tour V9 (6c) ***  
3 Lady Jane Middle V2 (5c) 7
4 Lady Jane High V0 (5b) 3
5 Lady Jane Low V5 (6b) 3
6 Lady Jane Classic V0 (5a) 43
7 Hart's ArĂȘte High V3 (6a) *** 11
8 Hart's Arete Traverse f6C 6a *** 27
9 The Grand Horizontal V9 (6c) **  
10 Pex Wall Traverse E3 6a * 32
11 Pex Wall Low V5 (6b) 9
12 Gaming Club traverse V2 (5c)  
13 Gaming Club Low V3 (6a)  
14 Memorial Wall traverse V4 (5c) 12
15 Vag Crap Traverse High V4 (6a) 1
16 Stampede V9 (6c)  
17 Dateline Traverse Extension V4 (6a) 1
18 Dateline Traverse V3 (6a) 8
19 Pisa Wall High V2 (5c) 8
20 Pisa Wall Traverse Middle f6A 5c *** 177
21 Pisa Wall Low V2 (5c) 28
22 Pisa Wall Lower Right / PitBull Finish V4 (6b) 1
  Lady Jane Wall
24 Too Bold for Steve Boot f5 5b 105
25 Set Square VS 4c 120
26 Set Square Direct
-
V2 (5c) * 56
27 Tequila Sunrise f5+ 5c * 161
28 Rubber Willie V6 (6b)  
29 Harvey Wallbanger f6A 5c * 160
30 Black Russian f6B 6a 33
31 Lew's Leap f5 5b ** 141
32 Lew's Leap Direct V2 (6a) 29
33 Finger-Ripper f7A 6b 4
34 Bermuda Triangle f6B 6a ** 60
35 Bermuda Triangle Direct V6 (6b) 3
36 Cosine Alternative f6B 6b 8
37 Breakaway f7B+ 6c * 5
38 Catalepsy f7A+ 6c *** 13
39 Monoblock f7C+ 7a *** 5
40 Bernie f7A 6b ** 5
41 Termination f7A+ 6c 3
42 Philharmonic f6B 6b 9
43 Algripper f5+ 5c ** 41
44 Jurassic Pork f7A 6b 4
45 Lady Jane E1 5c ** 119
46 Crossbow E1 5c 17
47 Lady Jane Direct Start E1 5c 55
48 Sidestep E1 5c * 18
49 Twin Scoops Direct E1 6a * 28
50 Twin Scoops HVS 4c ** 105
51 Twin Scoops Right-hand E2 5c 8
52 Creeping Jesus E1 5b ** 77
53 Creeping Jesus Direct V2 5c 6
54 Kitt's Wall E5 6b ** 1
55 The Black Pimp from Marseilles E6 6b * 2
56 Unicorn E3 5b ** 45
57 Cave Route Right-hand E6 6b 3
58 Ladytron E4 5c ** 10
59 Cardiac Arete E4 6b ** 5
60 Hart's Arete E4 6b ** 19
61 Zigger Zagger E2 5b ** 15
62 Big Greenie E3 5c * 8
63 The Hulk E2 5c 15
64 Crack and Up E1 5b ** 141
65 Corner and Overhang E2 5b * 27
66 McArthur Park E3 5b * 22
67 Eliminate One E2 5b 40
68 The Abort E1 5a * 110
69 Eliminate Two E2 5b 31
70 One Step E1 5a * 99
71 Eliminate Three E3 5c 23
72 The Web E1 5b ** 220
  Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering
74 Problem 1 VB (4b) 2
75 Problem 2 V3 (6a)  
76 The Mantle V3 (6a)  
77 Problem 4 VB (4c) 2
78 Problem 5 V1 (5c) 1
79 Problem 5.5 V4 (6a-6b  
80 The Denominator V7 (6b)  
81 Problem 6 V1 (5c) 1
82 Problem 7 V1 (5c) 1
83 Problem 8 V7 (6b)  
84 Problem 9 V0+ (5b) 1
85 Problem 10 V0- (5a) 3
86 Problem 11 V4 (6a-6b  
87 Problem 12 V0 (5b)  
88 Problem 13 V3 (6a)  
89 Problem 14 V9 (6c)  
90 Hart's Arete V4 (6a) 13
91 Hart's Arete Layback V5 (6b) 4
92 Hart's Arete 1 handed V7 6b *** 2
93 Problem 15 V6 (6b)  
94 Problem 16 V0+ (5b) 1
95 Problem 17 V3 (6a)  
96 Problem 18 V2 (5c)  
97 Problem 19 V1 (5c)  
98 Joe's Direct Start V8 (6c)  
  Pex Wall
100 Pex Wall E4 6a  
101 Eliminate Four E3 5c 25
102 The Witch E2 5b ** 52
103 Four Jays E2 5b 26
104 The Wizard E2 5b ** 48
105 Green Monster E4 6a 20
106 Alchemy E4 6a 20
107 Warlock E3 5c * 32
108 Warcry E5 6b 9
109 Warmonger E5 6b 4
110 Cobweb Crack E3 5c * 134
111 Spiderman E5 6b 1
112 Warlord E4 6a * 11
113 The Pacifist E5 6b *  
114 Innocent E4 6a *  
115 Peeler XS 5b 1
116 Vibrator XS 5b  
117 Trident XS 5a  
118 Right Corner XS 4a  
  Philander Wall
120 Philanderer XS 4b  
121 Massey Street XS 5b  
122 Wod's Slot XS 5c  
123 Key of the Door XS 4b  
  Gaming Club Wall
125 Gaming Club E2 5a * 3
126 Sandinista V3 6a 1
127 Fallout Zone V3 6a 1
128 Pure Mania V3 6a 1
129 Contra
-
V3 6a  
130 Casino Club V0 5a 18
131 The Talisman
-
V0 4c 3
132 A Route V0- 3a 56
133 B Route VB 3a 13
134 Bramble S 4c 24
135 Thin Crack (5c)
-
V2 5c 5
136 Ramble V0 4c 8
137 Short Crack S 4b 79
138 Heather Wall f5 5b * 39
139 Bon Ami f4 5a 83
140 Bon Gre Malgre
-
V2 5b 27
141 Master Race E5 6b 1
142 The Rack E1 5a ** 93
  Torture Wall
144 Pipe Down E3 5c  
145 Thumbscrew V1 5b * 1
146 Iron Maiden V2 5c **  
147 Garotte V1 5b * 3
148 Bon Bon V0 4a 23
149 Gazebo V0 5a  
150 Ledge Route VB 3a 16
  Memorial Wall
152 Sweeney Arete f4 5a ** 57
153 Robbery V2 5c 33
154 Headstone f6B 6a 14
155 Cenotaph V0 5a * 8
156 Memorial Wall HS 4b 116
157 Tombstone
-
V0 5a 46
158 Memorial Corner HS 4b 92
  Vag Crap Wall
160 Hunter's Walk f5+ 5c * 39
161 St Paul f5+ 5c 15
162 Weasel E2 5c ** 6
163 Ferret E1 5a * 2
164 Swinging Gulch V0 4b 6
165 Stoolie V0+ 4c  
166 Judder V1 4c 1
167 Four Most V1 4c 1
168 Ok, Blue Eyes V0+ 4c 1
169 Sabre Cut
-
HS 4c 10
170 Pink Panther V0 5a  
171 Hookey E2 5b  
172 Pink Wall E3 6a  
  Pink Wall Area
174 Pink Corner
-
V0- 4c 6
175 Bill E1 5a 1
176 Ben E2 5c 1
177 Belcher E3 6a  
178 Snooker VB 3a 4
179 Coffin Crack VB 3b 7
180 Coffin Wall VB 3b 6
181 Borehole Slab, Left Hand VB 3a 5
182 Jay VB 3a 4
183 Borehole Slab, Right Hand VB 3a 5
184 Nutty VB 3a 5
185 Diagonal Crack VB 3a 4
186 Low Overhang VB 3b 5
187 Thin Crack (3a)
-
VB 3a 3
188 Triangular Ledge VB 3a 3
189 Overlap
-
VB 3c 4
190 Shallow Corner VB 3a 3
191 Scrooge VB 3c 7
  Short Wall
193 Blob VB 3c 37
194 Cob VB 4a 36
195 Short Wall VB 4b 35
196 Hot Aches V2 5c 2
197 Marble Eyes V0 5a 13
  Knife Wall
199 The Knife E4 6a *** 60
200 Catemytes Crack E5 6b * 1
201 Main Wall E5 6b **  
202 Staminade E6 6b *** 1
203 Lemonade none 6b  
204 Pernod and Black none 6b  
205 Rum and Cocaine none 6b 1
  Dateline Wall
207 One of These Days Direct Start E3 5c * 1
208 One of These Days E3 5c ** 10
209 One of These Days Direct Finish E4 6a ** 1
210 The Famous Alto Sax Break none 6c *  
211 Padarn Dance E5 6b *  
212 Dateline E2 5c *** 95
213 Sinbad E6 6b **  
214 Depression E6 6b ** 1
215 Exit On Air E7 6b ***  
216 Black Magic E5 6b *** 23
217 Black Magic Direct E6 6c *  
218 Black Magic Direct Finish E6 6c *  
219 Acid Test E5 6b ** 4
220 Parker's Mood E6 6b *  
221 Euphoria E6 6b  
222 Never Mind the Acid E4 5c 6
223 Treadmill E3 5c 1
  Pisa Wall
225 The Widow f5 5b 12
226 Jota V5 (6a)  
227 Polar Bear f6C 6b * 2
228 Time Passage f6B 6b * 4
229 Time Passage Direct Start V6 6b  
230 Time Passage Direct Finish V6 6c  
231 Cyclops f5 5b 22
232 Two Eyes VS 4c ** 87
233 Cornea f5+ 5c ** 42
234 Willy Simm's Silly Whim f7A 6b * 12
235 Retina f5 5b * 68
236 Oak Tree Wall V5 6a  
237 Nameless VS 4c * 112
238 Iris V0 4c 8
239 Eliminate HS 4b * 113
240 Goliath f5+ 5c * 45
241 Cataract V5 6b 1
242 Square Four VS 4b * 186
243 Greeting f5 5b * 72
244 Handshake f5 5b * 178
245 Pisa Wall S 4a ** 310
246 Warm Up V1 5b 73
247 Straight Crack S 4a ** 327
248 Eliminate Wall f5+ 5c * 93
249 Mankey Road f5+ 5c ** 191
250 True Grip V2 5c 22
251 Monkey Grip f5 5b * 170
252 Green Streak f5 5b * 66
253 Fingers f5+ 5c 53
254 Bushy Tale f5 5b * 72
255 One Move f5+ 5c * 54
256 Thumb Screw f6A 6a 25
257 Commando f6A 6a 45
258 Gorilla f5+ 5c 105
259 Rock Over V0 4c 26
  Pisa Wall Eliminate Bouldering
261 The 7ft Dyno V8+ ** 5
262 Pex Dyno
-
V7 5
263 Vitalite V6 ** 10
264 Vitalite Lighter V7 * 1
265 Silly Boy V3 25
266 Stretch
-
V4 9
267 The Fat Neck V1 19
268 Big Eric
-
V6 3
269 Andy Who?
-
V7 2
270 Punks at Pex V7 2
271 Silly Boy Direct V5 8
272 Red Flash V5 9
273 Big Nick
-
V6 2
274 The South West Overhang
-
V8 3
275 South West Overhang Sit Start
-
V9  
276 Trad Sit Down V2 8
277 North West Overhang
-
V8 1
278 North West Overhang Sit Start
-
V10  
279 Red Al
-
V3 13
280 Blue Jim
-
V2 10
281 Twister
-
V3 10
282 Get Better
-
V4 4
283 Bog Standard
-
V3 2
284 Poor Leno
-
V3 6
285 Dimples Traverse V4 6a 16
286 Pockets Traverse V3 6a 3
287 Yer Basic
-
V2 8
288 1066
-
V1 6
289 Battle of Hastings
-
V3 6
290 King Kenny
-
V6  
  Problems need more info.

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