Climbs 66
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

R McAllister on Killer Queen Fr.7a © alan rosier

Crag features

The rust curtain is a great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes.

Many more walls have been developed with considerable variation in styles and grades.

Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).

Approach notes

The quarry owners have NOT given permission for climbing here. Any bolts have been placed without the owners consent. (Signposts saying climbing prohibited)

M4 J27: take the Risca road to Sirhowy country park. The quarry is easily accessible from the picnic area but an extremely low profile is essential if you really must climb there. GEOCACHE Grid Ref: N51.36.726; W3.9.049

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Decent crag especially Rust Curtain which is steeper than it looks. Queen Wall is okay in the middle but the micro-boulder-problem routes on the left hand side are truly poxy and whichever moron gave them any stars at all needs to be shot.
Fiend - 25/Jul/16
Sign posts on rock saying "climbing prohibited". Rock is in clear sight so easy to get caught if you chance it.amazing looks awesome though! :(
Max Lowry - 31/Jan/15
Looks like the crucial side pull of killer queen has broken off. Likely much much harder now
Robheirene - 28/Aug/14
The block on Brucifer always looked dodgy but the tree eventually popped it off. The rest is stable. May have affected the grade very sightly only.
alan rosier - 12/Jan/10
Large (3/4 Ton) block has recently (September 2009) fallen off Brucifer. Hard to tell if any more is likely to fall. All other lines are uneffected.
Stu Jones - 21/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Rust Curtain
2 The Waco Kid 6b 14
3 Gott In Himmel 7a * 77
4 Butcher Heinrich (Direct) 7b * 13
5 Strange Little Boy 6c 12
6 Strange Little Girl 6c *** 217
7 King Ada 7b ** 76
8 Skanderbeg (Direct) 7b+ ** 7
9 King Zog 7a+ *** 39
10 Face 7b+ *** 15
11 Mawr, Mawr, Mawr 7a *** 131
12 The Crimson King 7a * 29
13 Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro) 7a * 29
14 VIP Lunge 6c+ 28
15 Hostility Suite 6c ** 84
16 Aedan's Arete 6a+ 53
  Traverses and Link-up's
18 King Krab 7a * 2
19 Butcher Heinrich (dry start) 7b ** 33
20 King Ada / Butcher Heinrich Combination 7a+ * 5
21 King Ada / Strange Little Girl Combination 6c ** 44
22 Skanderbeg (easy start) 7b ** 37
23 Ottoman 7b+ ** 1
  Right Hand Wall
25 Brucifer 6a+ 46
26 Take Your Pants To Heaven 6c 24
27 Gouge the Unknown 6c+ 8
28 Knickerless In Hell 6b 20
29 Holey Moses 6a 29
30 Where the Arc is it? 5c 31
31 Temples of Cwmaman 5a 32
32 Arch of the Last Craven Ant 5c 16
  The Dust Curtain
34 O.C. / D.C. 6a 11
35 Shale I Compare Thee? 5a 29
36 Play Dusty For Me 5c 27
37 Dustin Cough Man 5c 22
38 Dustin Crime 6a+ 7
  Queen Wall
40 Queen Bee 5c 71
41 A Poxy Queen 6b ** 106
42 Slip Into The Queen 6b+ ** 53
43 Little Queen 5c ** 93
44 Sheer Heart Attack 7a+ ** 55
45 Deaf as a Post 7a+ * 23
46 Killer Queen 7a ** 65
47 Queens of the Stone Age 6b+ ** 86
48 Drag Queen 6a+ * 80
49 Raving Queen 6b+ * 57
50 The Queen is Dead 6b * 35
51 Drama Queen 5c 21
  Upper Tier
53 Project 5c  
54 Buddha's Watching 5b 10
55 Providence 6b+ 9
56 Psilocybic 6c * 9
57 Zeitgeist E2 * 11
58 Forgotten Ground 6a 13
59 Approaching the Nadir 6a * 51
60 Hooker With a Penis 6a+ ** 42
61 Lateralus 6b ** 31
62 Rosetta Stoned 6a * 44
63 Stinkfist 6a 31
64 Intension 6b+ * 21
65 Third Eye 6b * 34
66 The Grudge 6c * 33
67 Jambi 6c * 41
68 Prison Sex 5c 57
69 The Outsider 5b * 42
  BOULDERING
71 Olivine V1 7
72 1 Inch Punch V0+ 5
73 Gauge the Unknown 6c 1

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