Climbs 227
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1864m a.s.l
Faces W

Andy Griffiths at Sas Dlacia © wildeybeast

Crag features

A large, steep and imposing sports crag. Grades range from F5a to F8a+ with upper 6's and low 7's predominating. The bolts are plentiful and currently in good condition. The pitches are long (often 30m) so make sure a suitable rope length is used. There are several multipitch routes, the majority of which are 3 pitches in length.

Approach notes

This sports crag may be reached by driving to the lower section of the Valparola Pass. Drive towards the plain of Armentarola and the Rio Sare bridge. Access can then be gained by driving up a rough track running parallel to the river. Part at the head of the access track, the main face can then be seen on the right. Continue on foot for some 15 minutes up gently rising ground past a picnic area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
More info
Sector F doesn't add up in the Rockfax guide or the Dolomites Sport Climbing guide. L-R after the Via Dei Veci crack-line, there is route 5 KL 6a+ but route 6 La Mosna does not exist. There is nothing on that section with bolts bar for 7 Ore di volo 8 Ultimo Tango and 9 Slumm. Route 10 follows old bolts on the arete and is fine. The funny thing is with the missing line 6 La Mosna is the bolts appear to be there at the top. We also tried all the starts and nothing is easier than 6c except 5 KL 6a+.
Steve Perry - 16/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector B
2 Orso Yoghi 5b 2
3 Schiefe Liebe 6c ** 1
4 Variane facile
-
5c *  
5 Pic purcel 6a+ 2
6 Gran bela vacia 7a+ *  
7 Müsc d'auri 6c **  
8 Torn cliff 6c+ *  
9 Mesa lüna 7a+ **  
10 L'var Toron 7a+ **  
11 Gota d'ega 7a *  
12 Ficianes 7a+ *  
13 Labbracadabra 7a **  
14 Taxi tl'cervel 7a+ **  
15 Tëts al vënt 7b+ *  
16 Boulder Route One ? * 4
17 Boulder Route Two ? * 2
18 Boulder Route Three ? * 2
19 Boulder Route Four ? * 3
20 Papa Joe's 6c *** 2
21 Pantera rosa 6b+ * 1
22 Variante Nido ?  
23 Nido di rondine! 6c+ ***  
24 Tao ?  
25 Mao ?  
26 Gocce di sudore 7b ***  
27 No global 6b+ *** 1
28 Peggy 6b * 2
29 Luna piena 6b **  
30 Placca motoria 6b ** 5
31 Chernobil 6b ***  
32 L'ciuf dl'tonn 6c *** 1
33 In MTB 6b ** 2
34 Zambo 6a * 12
35 Urga 6b ** 6
36 Aloa 6a+ ** 6
37 Batida 6a+ ** 12
38 Vai tranquillo 5c * 13
39 Mork and Mindy 6b+ *  
40 Linea di luce 7c ***  
41 Elisir di lunga vita 7b ***  
42 Micromegas 6b **  
43 Lama 7a **  
44 Zinne 6b+ * 2
45 Miranda 6b * 1
46 Super Miranda 7b ** 1
47 Bananarama 7a ** 1
48 Sottozero 7a ** 3
49 Metal mania 7a+ ** 3
50 Prog rock 7a+ *  
51 Soft pop 6c+ *  
52 Vox populi 6b **  
53 Bimbi sani e belli 6b *  
54 W No Big 6a+ ** 1
55 Tonka 6b *  
56 Tempera 6b+ **  
57 Togo 6a+ ** 2
58 Tommy 7a ** 1
59 Mazot 7b ** 2
60 Martell 7a *  
61 Manarin 7a *  
62 Hole 6c+ ** 1
63 Vacche al pascolo 6b *  
64 Centrifuga 6c+ ***  
65 L'allungo 7b ** 1
66 Slippinman 6c **  
67 Nocciolina 6c **  
68 Black Yellow Line 6c+ **  
69 Pula 6b ** 2
70 Ciao Patrick 7a *  
71 Super Guru 7a+ **  
72 Wave 7c ***  
73 Ostriche e champagne 6c+ *  
74 Psichedelikatessen 7a *  
75 Nouvelle cuisine 6c *  
76 Foie gras 6c+ *  
77 Omlette Surprise 6c+ *  
78 Bouillabaisse 6b * 1
79 Incubo giallo 7b+ *  
80 Gracchius xever 7a **  
81 Braccio di ferro 8a ***  
82 Arminio di sterminio 7b **  
83 Homo Wurzel 7c **  
84 Terrore sul filo 7a+ **  
85 Ditalini feroci 7b+ **  
86 Nice Trap
-
7b  
87 Disney World
-
5c 2
88 Sleepy hollow
-
5c  
89 Pert foscia
-
6a 1
90 La decisiun l'mal
-
6b  
91 La decisiun l'bun
-
6b  
92 Pilastro nero
-
6b 1
93 Passaggio ad est
-
5c  
94 Einstiegsvariante 5c 1
95 Variante ruspante
-
6c  
96 Piccola e bella
-
5c 2
  Sector C
98 L'elefante 6b  
99 El dindondero 6b  
100 Tollwut 6b  
101 Relax 7a * 2
102 Take it easy 6c *  
103 Rin 6c *  
104 Tin sinistra 6b *  
105 Tin destra 6b+ *  
106 Sit 6b+ *  
107 Hard Start 6c+ **  
108 Nic 6c *** 3
109 Titan 7a **  
110 The Mars Volta 7b ***  
111 Changing corner 7c+ ***  
112 Diagonale 7c **  
113 Kalashnikov 7b+ *  
114 B-52 ?  
115 Bazuka 7c *  
116 Vendetta ?  
117 Antiplacca ?  
118 Ice Fall ?  
119 Hey Pat ?  
  Sector D
121 I Mondi Sommersi 6a+ *  
122 Only for Locals 7a+ **  
123 Queen of Slip 7a+ *  
124 King of Tanga 6c+ **  
125 Atto di forza 7c+  
126 Rigratta e stravinci 7c+  
127 Polenta e fasoi 7b  
128 Caccia al tesoro Project  
129 L'variöl d'sass Project  
130 La netura 7b ***  
131 Kati 030805 7c+ **  
132 Per le donne 5c *** 1
133 Per le donne allungata
-
7a  
134 L'tibl 6b+ *** 1
135 Per la bumba 6b ** 3
136 Maschietti con le tette 7a **  
137 Sorci II 7c **  
138 Miluppa 7b+ **  
139 La pantegana 8a **  
140 Super Alpha 7c+ ***  
141 Alpha Centauri Natural 7c+ ***  
142 Stella Polare 6c+ *** 6
143 No minimum tax 6c+ *** 8
144 Pelle di coccodrillo 7a+ *** 4
145 Pizza a sbaffo 7a+ ** 3
146 Sorci Verdi 7c *** 2
147 Pappa reale 7c+ **  
148 Sandogat P1
-
7a 2
149 Sandogat 7c **  
150 Natural Prestige 7b+ *  
151 Primo spigolo 7a+ *  
152 La grande traversata di sorci 7b+ ***  
  Sector E
154 Gelbsucht 7c+ ***  
155 Summerbreeze 7b ***  
156 Zappatore 6c **  
157 Sorcinator 6c+ **  
158 La bella 6c ** 1
159 La bestia 6b *** 3
160 Sorcini mon amour 6b **  
161 Tower of Babel 6c *  
162 Infinity 7a **  
163 Dolomitization 7a *** 1
164 Tope e sorcini 7a **  
165 La gnocca padovana 7a+ **  
166 Statica dinamica 7c *  
167 Spigolator 7b+ ***  
168 Spigolo del sole 6c+ *  
169 Mani gelate 7a+ **  
170 Ei de nöt 5c 2
171 Ei di nöt destra 5c * 1
172 L'anteriöl 7a **  
173 Dollasilla 7a+ * 1
174 Luianta 6c+ * 1
175 Spina de mul 6b * 2
176 Lusanta
-
6a 1
177 Spina d Mul
-
6a+ 1
178 La gana 6c+  
179 Gran Bracun 7b+ *  
180 Corto circuito ?  
181 Lo sparo ?  
182 Sberla 7a **  
183 Lo sputo 7b  
184 Schizzo 7a+ *  
185 La olla 6c+ **  
186 Esperó primavera 6c+ *** 1
187 Rigor d'etica 7b **  
188 Bagno di sole 7b **  
189 Polvere bianca 7b ** 1
190 Non sense 7b *  
191 Lourdes 8a *  
192 L'ris 6b *** 2
193 Variante L'ris 7a ***  
194 Düt Purnia Direct 7c **  
195 Dut purnia 7b+ **  
  Sector F
197 Le bloc 7a+  
198 Ding dong 6b+  
199 Sinfonia da cava 6c  
200 Via dei veci 5c ** 6
201 KL 6a+ ** 1
202 La mosna 6a ** 2
203 Ore di volo 6c+  
204 Ultimo tango 6c 1
205 Slumm 7a  
206 Relax ai Caraibi 7a+ ** 4
207 Crick crock 6b ** 2
208 Donna wo 7a+ ** 2
209 Paper duke 6b ** 1
210 Diretta Paper 6b+ ** 3
211 Serafina 6b+  
212 Taifun 6a 3
213 Fettuccina 6a+ ** 4
214 Ciapel che l'ghe 6a ** 6
215 Su con le rece 5c * 2
  Sector G
217 Vijina'nza ingorda 6c **  
218 Fragile 6b+  
219 Don't forget Beslan 6c+  
220 Peace in Iraq 7a  
221 Free Tibet 6b *  
222 La lunga marcia di Roma 7a+ * 2
223 Mai più guerra 7b+ *  
224 Ghandi 7b+ **  
225 Reflex ?  
226 Fonji Fuioji
-
5a 1
227 Via le man dal pesce
-
5c 1
228 Passaggio in India
-
6a 1
229 Sweet Child In Time
-
6a+ 1

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