Climbs 254
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle
2 East Face M 18
3 After Eight S 6
4 Southern Crack VD 11
5 Playaway V0+ 1
6 The Whale V3+ 1
7 Shallow Run VB 1
  Loaf and Cheese Area
9 Assembled Techniques E5 6a * 1
10 Loaf and Cheese VS 4c * 37
11 Dream Fighter E3 6a 2
12 Green Crack VS 5a * 66
13 National Acrobat E5 6c *** 10
14 Traveller in Time E4 6a *** 183
15 Body Popp E4 6b ** 17
16 Wall and Groove S 4a * 200
17 The Arête S 4a * 219
18 Louie Groove E1 5b * 520
19 Leeds Slab HS 4b * 284
20 Leeds Crack D * 395
21 Leeds Arête HVS 5b 1
22 Honest Jonny VD 237
23 Bilberry Roof * V1 1
  Undertaker
25 The Undertaker
-
E3 6a * 16
26 Melvyn Bragg f7B *** 11
27 Pink Flake f5 19
28 Mantel f4 8
29 The Letter T f6A 3
30 Twin Cracks
-
D 20
31 Double Chin
-
S 10
32 Prowler HVS 4c 10
33 The Underling * V2 1
  The Crank Area
35 Steeper V0+ 5a 5
36 Equilibria V1 5b 4
37 The Great Zawn
-
HVS 5a ** 60
38 Broken Groove
-
D * 117
39 Broken Groove Arête
-
D 40
40 Gully Arête E1 5c 2
41 Wellingtons
-
VD * 74
42 Masochism E1 5b * 76
43 T'rival Traverse E2 6a 4
44 Rock Trivia E2 6c * 4
45 Trivial Traverse HVS 5a * 8
46 Sneeze E1 5b * 84
47 The Crank VS 5a ** 409
48 Ultimate Sculpture E8 7a ** 1
  South Buttress
50 Chockstone Chimney VD 63
51 Maximum Hype E3 5c * 1
52 Waiting For The Lions E3 5c * 3
53 Gumshoe E2 5c *** 94
54 Wine Gums E4 6a ** 1
55 Tally Not HVS 5c * 19
56 Battle of the Bulge VS 4b ** 324
57 Gunfire HVS 4c * 4
58 The Cannon VS 4c * 91
59 Torture E4 5c 7
60 Whilly's Whopper VS 4c 47
61 Phallic Crack HVD 4a *** 554
62 Alcatraz E1 5b ** 65
63 Juan Cur E5 6a * 6
64 The Untouchable E1 5b ** 57
65 Corner Crack S 4a * 128
66 The Rippler HVS 5a * 18
67 Midge f6A 2
68 Cleg f4+ 5
69 Bodge V2 5b *  
  Lower Tier
71 Sensible Shoes f5 * 11
72 Crab Walk Direct f5+ ** 30
73 Crab Walk Direct VS 5b 16
74 Roof Direct f6C * 36
75 Smoothment Traverse f6B * 47
76 Overlap
-
V2 5c 7
77 Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon f7A+ ** 1
78 Sketching Wildly E6 6c **  
79 Crab Walk S 4a * 94
80 Brown's Crack E2 5c ** 102
81 Prostration HVS 5b ** 126
82 Rock Climbing in Britain f7A+ * 25
83 Roll Off f5+ * 25
84 Tit Grip f7C+ *  
85 Cake f6A * 26
86 Collywood f6C+ ** 62
87 Colly Wobble E4 6b ** 3
88 Don's Crack HVS 5b * 113
89 Bridgy's Metro Madness V5  
90 Hem Line f7A * 43
91 Tierdrop E5 6b *** 31
92 Tierdrop f7A+ *** 64
93 Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B **  
94 Tier's End VS 5a 45
95 Tier's End Sit Start f5 ** 24
96 Last Drop f5 40
97 Abdomen S 4a 17
  Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering
  Dirty Warm Ups
100 DCB Problem 1 V1 5c 15
101 DCB Problem 2 V0 5a 10
102 DCB Problem 3 V1 5b 19
103 DCB Problem 4 V0- 4c 20
104 DCB Problem 5 V0 5a 15
105 Scotch eggs V3 6a * 2
  Main Area
107 Up the Bottom V3 2
108 Easy Prow f4+ ** 66
109 Little Prow f6C+ * 14
110 Slappy Seconds V5 2
111 The Scoop f5+ ** 86
112 The Lurch f6B ** 33
113 Ossie's Bulge f6B+ *** 169
114 Ram Air f7B+ *** 12
115 Elastic Wall f6C ** 23
116 The Arête f5+ * 62
117 5c Wall f6A ** 63
118 Baby Groove f3 * 67
119 Mansize f7C 7
120 Hanging Crack f4+ 35
121 Classic Mantel f5+ * 33
122 Saian f6C * 1
123 Billberries Indirect Direct V3 5a 1
124 A Close Shave E2 5c *  
125 Johnny's Groove
-
V8 6c  
126 Crocodile Slot f5 19
127 Right Slot f5 6
  Dangerous Crocodile Snogging
129 The Comedian VS 4b * 46
130 The Comedian Direct HVS 5a 9
131 Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
132 Camelian Crack VD * 113
133 Pat's Parched E1 5b 22
134 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging E7 6b *** 15
135 Blockbuster E5 6c * 3
136 Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop E7 6c *** 7
137 Elastic Limit E2 6a * 9
  Boomerang Buttress
139 Rem's Runnel E3 5a 1
140 Seb's Crack HVS 5b  
141 Pammies other Cleavage E2 5c **  
142 Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep E4 6b * 9
143 The Wriggler HS 4b 17
144 Arête and Crack VD ** 234
145 Handrail E2 5c * 15
146 Handrail Direct E4 6a * 6
147 Cedez le Passage E6 6b  
148 Assegai VS 5a * 22
149 Bowrosin VS 4c * 69
150 English Towns E3 5c * 12
151 Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
152 Boomerang VD *** 655
153 Wick Slip E5 6b ***  
154 Monty E4 6b * 1
155 Watercourse HS 4b 33
156 Dan's Dare VS 4c 7
157 Gully Wall HVS 5a 4
  Ramshaw Buttress
159 Little Nasty E1 5b 13
160 Electric Savage E3 5c * 1
161 Ramshaw Crack E4 6a *** 78
162 Four Purists
-
VS 5a 4
163 Never, Never Land E7 6b *** 20
164 Green Corner S 4a 21
165 Zigzag Route VD 14
166 Zigzag Route Variation HS 4c 1
  Imposition Area
168 Roller Coaster E6 6c * 1
169 Boom Bip E7 7a ** 2
170 Imposition E2 5b ** 29
171 Iron Horse Crack D * 53
172 Scooped Surprise E3 6a 1
173 Tricouni Crack HS 4b * 141
174 Rubber Crack VS 4c 29
175 Darkness HS 4b 55
176 Army Route
-
D 16
177 Dusk
-
D 10
  Flaky Buttress
179 Flake Gully M 33
180 Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
181 Flaky Wall Direct VS 4b ** 175
182 Flaky Wall Indirect VS 4c * 24
183 Flaky Wall Super Direct
-
E1 *  
184 Cracked Gully D * 86
185 Cracked Arête VD * 54
186 Arête Wall VD * 52
187 Crystal Tipps E1 5c * 17
188 The Ultra Direct E2 6b * 3
189 Magic Roundabout Super Direct E1 5c * 32
190 Magic Roundabout Direct HVS 4c ** 64
191 Magic Roundabout S 4a ** 257
192 Mystic Meg S 4a 2
193 Saul's Bypass HVS 5b *  
194 The Delectable Deviation VS 4c * 36
195 Perched Flake D 60
196 Be Calmed E1 6c * 2
197 Force Nine E4 6c * 7
198 Port Crack S 4a * 78
199 Time Out E2 5c * 25
200 Starboard Crack E1 5b * 12
  Magic Roundabout Boulders
202 Force Nine f7A+ ** 6
203 Be Calmed f6B * 3
204 Be Calmed Right-Hand f6C+ * 3
205 Magic Arête f5+ ** 47
206 The Finger
-
f3 26
207 Jamless f5+ * 22
208 Arête On Left f7A * 1
209 Epilogue f7A ** 22
210 The Rammer f3+ ** 63
211 Monologue f7B+ ** 21
212 The Pinches f6B ** 55
213 Practice Chimney f3 34
214 Dialogue f7B+ * 6
215 Cracked Arête f5+ * 39
  Roman Nose Buttress
217 Big Richard S 4a 6
218 The Proboscid E1 5a 5
219 The Crippler HVS 5a *** 95
220 Escape E1 5b 2
221 Mantrap HVD 17
  The Pinnacle
223 Wheel of Misfortune f6A+ 1
224 Great Scene Baby S 4a 60
225 Great Scene Baby Direct VS 5b 7
226 Groovy Baby HS 4b 25
227 Pile Driver HVS 5a * 30
228 The Press E1 5b ** 20
229 Night of Lust E4 6b *  
230 Reg E7 7a *** 1
231 Curfew HVS 5b * 7
232 Foord's Folly E2 6a *** 38
233 The Swinger VS 4c ** 44
234 The Dogger V4 6b 1
  Night of Lust Bouldering
236 Press Direct f6B * 32
237 Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 30
238 Lust Left-Hand f7B ** 24
239 Night of Lust Start f6C+ *** 48
240 Runnel Entry f6C * 25
241 Foord's Folly Start f6A ** 12
  Last Rocks
243 Slow Hand Clap E2 5c 4
244 Modesty Crack D 9
245 California Screaming f7B ** 2
246 The Brag VS 5a * 4
247 Shark's Fin HS 5a *** 183
248 Sharks Fin Dyno f4+ *** 21
249 Early Retirement D 9
250 Rash Challenge E1 5a 1
251 Honking Bank Worker E2 5c 1
252 Extended Credit HVS 5a * 4
253 Caramta S 4a 8
254 Highneken f7B+ ** 1
255 The Prism VD 9
256 Approaching Dark E1 6a 1
257 Lechery HS 4a 3
258 Ceiling Zero HVS 4c * 3
259 Pocket Wall HS 4a 5
260 Uncle Scarface V4 * 1
261 Curver HVD 12
262 Fist of Fun E6 6c ** 1
263 Old Fogey E3 5c ** 18
264 Old Fogey Direct E5 6b *** 4
265 The Fogey Prow f7C  
266 King Harold S 4a * 13
267 Little Giraffe Man HS 4a * 11
268 Scratches f7C+ ** 1
  Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING
270 North Cheek VD 5
271 Middle Route S 2
272 The Doleman S 2
273 Collar Bone
-
D 3
274 The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
275 Owl'ole
-
D 3
276 Hemm Line f7A ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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