UKC

Climbs 275
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 417m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Ali on the brilliant Shark's Fin (HS 5a), Ramshaw, Peak District © Jamie Moss

Crag features

The spectacular jutting prows that make up Ramshaw Rocks lean out towards the A53 Leek to Buxton Road, the in-dipping strata being the exposed outer edge of the down-fold in the rocks of the Goldsitch Syncline. This geology makes for steep and exhilarating climbing, with many excellent juggy outings following steep and improbable lines. The place is also well-known for its ferocious wide cracks and some of grit's most rounded exits; a venue for the aficionado perhaps. Ramshaw is the least popular of the Staffordshire triptych, though this can only really be a reflection of its easterly aspect and the quality of the other two cliffs.

The generally easterly aspect means that early risers can enjoy the place in the sun, the rest of us tend to use it as a shady retreat on hot days. A couple of the buttresses protrude above the level of the ridge and get the sun for a more extended period, the Flaky Wall routes being the most notable of these. The crag will catch any wind although there could be some shelter from westerlies.

Approach notes

The distinctive edge is impossible to miss above the A53. It is reached by turning off onto a minor road between the junctions leading to Upper Hulme (and The Roaches) and The Winking Man pub. The minor road is followed up the hill and around to a parking area behind the edge.

Restricted Access

Ramshaw is home to some of the hardest routes in Britain and most of them are graded HVS - a Yosemite style tape job is the only access requirement! There are no access problems at the main crag. However, do not try and climb at Lady Rock (the buttresses on the far right above the farm house), these are not on access land, the owner lives very close and has been confrontational.

If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

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