Climbs 262
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle
2 East Face M 20
3 After Eight S 6
4 Southern Crack VD 13
5 Playaway V0+ 1
6 The Whale V3+ 1
7 Shallow Run VB 1
8 East Face Wall VD 1
9 East Face Arete VD 1
  Loaf and Cheese Area
11 Assembled Techniques E5 6a * 1
12 Loaf and Cheese VS 4c * 38
13 Dream Fighter E3 6a 2
14 Green Crack VS 5a * 62
15 National Acrobat E5 6c *** 3
16 Traveller in Time E4 6a *** 162
17 Body Popp E4 6b ** 19
18 Wall and Groove S 4a * 216
19 The Arête S 4a * 233
20 Louie Groove E1 5b * 524
21 Leeds Slab HS 4b * 307
22 Leeds Crack D * 427
23 Leeds Arête HVS 5b 1
24 Honest Jonny VD 255
25 Bilberry Roof V1 2
  Undertaker
27 The Undertaker
-
E3 6a * 17
28 Melvyn Bragg f7B *** 21
29 Pink Flake f5 21
30 Mantel f4 9
31 The Letter T f6A 3
32 Twin Cracks
-
D 22
33 Double Chin
-
S 11
34 Prowler HVS 4c 10
35 The Underling V2 2
  The Crank Area
37 Steeper V0+ 5a 5
38 Equilibria V1 5b 4
39 The Great Zawn HVS 5a ** 78
40 Broken Groove D * 133
41 Broken Groove Arête
-
D 41
42 Gully Arête E1 5c 2
43 Wellingtons VD * 85
44 Masochism E1 5b * 83
45 T'rival Traverse E2 6a 4
46 Rock Trivia E2 6c * 4
47 Trivial Traverse HVS 5a * 8
48 Sneeze E1 5b * 95
49 The Crank VS 5a ** 456
50 Ultimate Sculpture E8 7a ** 1
  South Buttress
52 Chockstone Chimney VD 75
53 Maximum Hype E3 5c * 1
54 Waiting For The Lions E3 5c * 5
55 Gumshoe E2 5c *** 92
56 Wine Gums E4 6a ** 1
57 Tally Not HVS 5c * 21
58 Battle of the Bulge VS 4b ** 359
59 Gunfire HVS 4c * 5
60 The Cannon VS 4c * 101
61 Torture E4 5c 7
62 Whilly's Whopper VS 4c 50
63 Phallic Crack HVD 4a *** 599
64 Alcatraz E1 5b ** 81
65 Juan Cur E5 6a * 7
66 The Untouchable E1 5b ** 61
67 Corner Crack S 4a * 136
68 The Rippler HVS 5a * 19
69 Midge f6A 2
70 Cleg f4+ 6
71 Bodge V2 5b *  
  Lower Tier
73 Sensible Shoes f5 * 21
74 Crab Walk Direct f5+ ** 38
75 Crab Walk Direct VS 5b 16
76 Roof Direct f6C * 55
77 Smoothment Traverse f6B * 70
78 Overlap
-
V2 5c 8
79 Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon f7A+ ** 1
80 Sketching Wildly E6 6c **  
81 Crab Walk S 4a * 101
82 Brown's Crack E2 5c ** 111
83 Prostration HVS 5b ** 141
84 Rock Climbing in Britain f7A+ * 44
85 Early Esk Ape f6B 6
86 Roll Off f5+ * 40
87 Roll Model V1 1
88 Tit Grip f7C+ *  
89 Cake f6A * 41
90 Collywood f6C+ ** 85
91 Colly Wobble E4 6b ** 3
92 Don's Crack HVS 5b * 135
93 Bridgy's Metro Madness V5 3
94 Hem Line
-
f7A * 73
Climb name Grade
95 Tierdrop E5 6b *** 26
96 Tierdrop f7A+ *** 78
97 Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B **  
98 Tier's End VS 5a 50
99 Tier's End Sit Start f5 ** 38
100 Last Drop f5 51
101 Abdomen S 4a 17
  Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering
  Dirty Warm Ups
104 DCB Problem 1 V1 5c 15
105 DCB Problem 2 V0 5a 10
106 DCB Problem 3 V1 5b 19
107 DCB Problem 4 V0- 4c 20
108 DCB Problem 5 V0 5a 15
109 Scotch eggs V3 6a * 2
  Main Area
111 Up the Bottom V3 2
112 Easy Prow f4+ ** 90
113 Little Prow f6C+ * 16
114 Slappy Seconds V5 2
115 The Scoop f5+ ** 112
116 The Lurch f6B ** 41
117 Ossie's Bulge f6B+ *** 215
118 Ram Air f7B+ *** 15
119 Elastic Wall f6C ** 27
120 The Arête f5+ * 72
121 5c Wall f6A ** 77
122 Baby Groove f3 * 82
123 Mansize f7C 34
124 Hanging Crack f4+ 39
125 Classic Mantel f5+ * 40
126 Saian f6C * 1
127 Billberries Indirect Direct V3 5a 1
128 A Close Shave E2 5c *  
129 Johnny's Groove
-
V8 6c  
130 Crocodile Slot f5 23
131 Right Slot f5 6
  Dangerous Crocodile Snogging
133 The Comedian VS 4b * 46
134 The Comedian Direct HVS 5a 9
135 Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
136 Camelian Crack VD * 127
137 Pat's Parched E1 5b 23
138 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging E7 6b *** 17
139 Blockbuster E5 6c * 3
140 Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop E7 6c *** 8
141 Elastic Limit E2 6a * 9
  Boomerang Buttress
143 Rem's Runnel E3 5a 1
144 Seb's Crack HVS 5b  
145 Pammies other Cleavage E2 5c **  
146 Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep E4 6b * 11
147 The Wriggler HS 4b 18
148 Arête and Crack VD ** 263
149 Handrail E2 5c * 17
150 Handrail Direct E4 6a * 7
151 Cedez le Passage E6 6b  
152 Assegai VS 5a * 27
153 Bowrosin VS 4c * 80
154 English Towns E3 5c * 15
155 Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
156 Boomerang VD *** 719
157 Wick Slip E5 6b ***  
158 Monty E4 6b * 1
159 Watercourse HS 4b 35
160 Dan's Dare VS 4c 8
161 Gully Wall HVS 5a 5
  Ramshaw Buttress
163 Little Nasty E1 5b 14
164 Electric Savage E3 5c * 1
165 Ramshaw Crack E4 6a *** 63
166 Four Purists
-
VS 5a 11
167 Never, Never Land E7 6b *** 25
168 Green Corner S 4a 21
169 Zigzag Route VD 14
170 Zigzag Route Variation HS 4c 1
  Imposition Area
172 Roller Coaster E6 6c * 2
173 Boom Bip E7 7a ** 2
174 Imposition E2 5b ** 34
175 Iron Horse Crack D * 59
176 Scooped Surprise E3 6a 1
177 Tricouni Crack HS 4b * 156
178 Rubber Crack VS 4c 30
179 Darkness HS 4b 59
180 Army Route
-
D 17
181 Dusk
-
D 10
  Flaky Buttress
183 Flake Gully M 35
184 Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
185 Flaky Wall Direct VS 4b ** 193
186 Flaky Wall Indirect VS 4c * 28
187 Flaky Wall Super Direct E1 5b * 2
188 Cracked Gully D * 95
Climb name Grade
189 Cracked Arête VD * 58
190 Arête Wall VD * 56
191 Crystal Tipps E1 5c * 19
192 The Ultra Direct E2 6b * 3
193 Magic Roundabout Super Direct E1 5c * 34
194 Magic Roundabout Direct HVS 4c ** 80
195 Magic Roundabout S 4a ** 286
196 Mystic Meg S 4a 2
197 Saul's Bypass HVS 5b *  
198 The Delectable Deviation VS 4c * 36
199 Perched Flake D 63
200 Be Calmed E1 6c * 2
201 Force Nine E4 6c * 13
202 Port Crack S 4a * 84
203 Time Out E2 5c * 30
204 Starboard Crack E1 5b * 13
  Magic Roundabout Boulders
206 Force Nine f7A+ ** 14
207 Be Calmed f6B * 3
208 Be Calmed Right-Hand f6C+ * 3
209 Magic Arête f5+ ** 57
210 The Finger
-
f3 29
211 Jamless f5+ * 28
212 Arête On Left f7A * 3
213 Epilogue f7A ** 26
214 The Rammer f3+ ** 75
215 Monologue f7B+ ** 38
216 The Pinches f6B ** 66
217 Practice Chimney f3 39
218 Dialogue f7B+ * 12
219 Cracked Arête f5+ * 49
220 Big Bees Don't Cry f6B ** 3
  Roman Nose Buttress
222 Big Richard S 4a 9
223 The Proboscid E1 5a 7
224 The Crippler HVS 5a *** 103
225 Escape E1 5b 2
226 Mantrap HVD 18
  The Pinnacle
228 Wheel of Misfortune f6A+ 1
229 Great Scene Baby S 4a 64
230 Great Scene Baby Direct VS 5b 8
231 Groovy Baby HS 4b 26
232 Pile Driver HVS 5a * 29
233 The Press E1 5b ** 24
234 Night of Lust E4 6b *  
235 Reg E7 7a *** 1
236 Curfew HVS 5b * 8
237 Foord's Folly E2 6a *** 48
238 The Swinger VS 4c ** 45
239 The Dogger V4 6b 1
  Night of Lust Bouldering
241 Press Direct f6B * 47
242 Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 41
243 Lust Left-Hand f7B ** 38
244 Night of Lust Start f6C+ *** 63
245 Night of Lust Sit Start f7A 6
246 Runnel Entry f6C * 28
247 Foord's Folly Start f6A ** 18
  Last Rocks
249 Slow Hand Clap E2 5c 4
250 Modesty Crack D 9
251 California Screaming f7B ** 2
252 The Brag VS 5a * 4
253 Shark's Fin HS 5a *** 214
254 Sharks Fin Dyno f4+ *** 25
255 Early Retirement D 9
256 Rash Challenge E1 5a 1
257 Honking Bank Worker E2 5c 1
258 Extended Credit HVS 5a * 4
259 Caramta S 4a 8
260 Highneken f7B+ ** 1
261 The Prism VD 9
262 Approaching Dark E1 6a 1
263 Lechery HS 4a 3
264 Ceiling Zero HVS 4c * 3
265 Pocket Wall HS 4a 5
266 Uncle Scarface V4 * 1
267 Curver HVD 12
268 Fist of Fun E6 6c ** 1
269 Old Fogey E3 5c ** 23
270 Old Fogey Direct E5 6b *** 4
271 The Fogey Prow f7C  
272 King Harold S 4a * 13
273 Little Giraffe Man HS 4a * 11
274 Scratches f7C+ ** 3
  Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING
276 North Cheek VD 5
277 Middle Route S 3
278 The Doleman S 2
279 Collar Bone
-
D 3
280 The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
281 Owl'ole
-
D 3
282 Hemm Line f7A ** 2

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