UKC

Climbs 258
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle
2 East Face M 18
3 After Eight S 6
4 Southern Crack VD 11
5 Playaway V0+ 1
6 The Whale V3+ 1
7 Shallow Run VB 1
  Loaf and Cheese Area
9 Assembled Techniques E5 6a * 1
10 Loaf and Cheese VS 4c * 37
11 Dream Fighter E3 6a 2
12 Green Crack VS 5a * 58
13 National Acrobat E5 6c *** 3
14 Traveller in Time E4 6a *** 148
15 Body Popp E4 6b ** 17
16 Wall and Groove S 4a * 198
17 The Arête S 4a * 216
18 Louie Groove E1 5b * 495
19 Leeds Slab HS 4b * 291
20 Leeds Crack D * 400
21 Leeds Arête HVS 5b 1
22 Honest Jonny VD 240
23 Bilberry Roof V1 2
  Undertaker
25 The Undertaker
-
E3 6a * 16
26 Melvyn Bragg f7B *** 12
27 Pink Flake f5 19
28 Mantel f4 8
29 The Letter T f6A 3
30 Twin Cracks
-
D 20
31 Double Chin
-
S 10
32 Prowler HVS 4c 10
33 The Underling V2 2
  The Crank Area
35 Steeper V0+ 5a 5
36 Equilibria V1 5b 4
37 The Great Zawn HVS 5a ** 66
38 Broken Groove D * 114
39 Broken Groove Arête
-
D 38
40 Gully Arête E1 5c 2
41 Wellingtons VD * 73
42 Masochism E1 5b * 66
43 T'rival Traverse E2 6a 4
44 Rock Trivia E2 6c * 4
45 Trivial Traverse HVS 5a * 8
46 Sneeze E1 5b * 87
47 The Crank VS 5a ** 399
48 Ultimate Sculpture E8 7a ** 1
  South Buttress
50 Chockstone Chimney VD 63
51 Maximum Hype E3 5c * 1
52 Waiting For The Lions E3 5c * 5
53 Gumshoe E2 5c *** 85
54 Wine Gums E4 6a ** 1
55 Tally Not HVS 5c * 19
56 Battle of the Bulge VS 4b ** 325
57 Gunfire HVS 4c * 4
58 The Cannon VS 4c * 93
59 Torture E4 5c 7
60 Whilly's Whopper VS 4c 46
61 Phallic Crack HVD 4a *** 539
62 Alcatraz E1 5b ** 66
63 Juan Cur E5 6a * 7
64 The Untouchable E1 5b ** 54
65 Corner Crack S 4a * 125
66 The Rippler HVS 5a * 18
67 Midge f6A 2
68 Cleg f4+ 5
69 Bodge V2 5b *  
  Lower Tier
71 Sensible Shoes f5 * 14
72 Crab Walk Direct f5+ ** 34
73 Crab Walk Direct VS 5b 16
74 Roof Direct f6C * 45
75 Smoothment Traverse f6B * 55
76 Overlap
-
V2 5c 7
77 Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon f7A+ ** 1
78 Sketching Wildly E6 6c **  
79 Crab Walk S 4a * 95
80 Brown's Crack E2 5c ** 94
81 Prostration HVS 5b ** 123
82 Rock Climbing in Britain f7A+ * 37
83 Early Esk Ape f6B 2
84 Roll Off f5+ * 26
85 Tit Grip f7C+ *  
86 Cake f6A * 30
87 Collywood f6C+ ** 71
88 Colly Wobble E4 6b ** 3
89 Don's Crack HVS 5b * 110
90 Bridgy's Metro Madness V5  
91 Hem Line
-
f7A * 50
92 Tierdrop E5 6b *** 22
93 Tierdrop f7A+ *** 65
Climb name Grade
94 Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B **  
95 Tier's End VS 5a 46
96 Tier's End Sit Start f5 ** 28
97 Last Drop f5 44
98 Abdomen S 4a 17
  Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering
  Dirty Warm Ups
101 DCB Problem 1 V1 5c 15
102 DCB Problem 2 V0 5a 10
103 DCB Problem 3 V1 5b 19
104 DCB Problem 4 V0- 4c 20
105 DCB Problem 5 V0 5a 15
106 Scotch eggs V3 6a * 2
  Main Area
108 Up the Bottom V3 2
109 Easy Prow f4+ ** 69
110 Little Prow f6C+ * 14
111 Slappy Seconds V5 2
112 The Scoop f5+ ** 86
113 The Lurch f6B ** 34
114 Ossie's Bulge f6B+ *** 178
115 Ram Air f7B+ *** 12
116 Elastic Wall f6C ** 23
117 The Arête f5+ * 62
118 5c Wall f6A ** 66
119 Baby Groove f3 * 69
120 Mansize f7C 20
121 Hanging Crack f4+ 36
122 Classic Mantel f5+ * 33
123 Saian f6C * 1
124 Billberries Indirect Direct V3 5a 1
125 A Close Shave E2 5c *  
126 Johnny's Groove
-
V8 6c  
127 Crocodile Slot f5 19
128 Right Slot f5 6
  Dangerous Crocodile Snogging
130 The Comedian VS 4b * 46
131 The Comedian Direct HVS 5a 9
132 Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
133 Camelian Crack VD * 115
134 Pat's Parched E1 5b 22
135 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging E7 6b *** 16
136 Blockbuster E5 6c * 3
137 Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop E7 6c *** 7
138 Elastic Limit E2 6a * 9
  Boomerang Buttress
140 Rem's Runnel E3 5a 1
141 Seb's Crack HVS 5b  
142 Pammies other Cleavage E2 5c **  
143 Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep E4 6b * 11
144 The Wriggler HS 4b 17
145 Arête and Crack VD ** 235
146 Handrail E2 5c * 16
147 Handrail Direct E4 6a * 6
148 Cedez le Passage E6 6b  
149 Assegai VS 5a * 22
150 Bowrosin VS 4c * 69
151 English Towns E3 5c * 12
152 Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
153 Boomerang VD *** 642
154 Wick Slip E5 6b ***  
155 Monty E4 6b * 1
156 Watercourse HS 4b 33
157 Dan's Dare VS 4c 8
158 Gully Wall HVS 5a 4
  Ramshaw Buttress
160 Little Nasty E1 5b 13
161 Electric Savage E3 5c * 1
162 Ramshaw Crack E4 6a *** 48
163 Four Purists
-
VS 5a 6
164 Never, Never Land E7 6b *** 21
165 Green Corner S 4a 21
166 Zigzag Route VD 14
167 Zigzag Route Variation HS 4c 1
  Imposition Area
169 Roller Coaster E6 6c * 1
170 Boom Bip E7 7a ** 2
171 Imposition E2 5b ** 32
172 Iron Horse Crack D * 53
173 Scooped Surprise E3 6a 1
174 Tricouni Crack HS 4b * 147
175 Rubber Crack VS 4c 30
176 Darkness HS 4b 59
177 Army Route
-
D 16
178 Dusk
-
D 10
  Flaky Buttress
180 Flake Gully M 33
181 Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
182 Flaky Wall Direct VS 4b ** 171
183 Flaky Wall Indirect VS 4c * 24
184 Flaky Wall Super Direct E1 5b *  
185 Cracked Gully D * 87
186 Cracked Arête VD * 54
Climb name Grade
187 Arête Wall VD * 53
188 Crystal Tipps E1 5c * 18
189 The Ultra Direct E2 6b * 3
190 Magic Roundabout Super Direct E1 5c * 33
191 Magic Roundabout Direct HVS 4c ** 68
192 Magic Roundabout S 4a ** 249
193 Mystic Meg S 4a 2
194 Saul's Bypass HVS 5b *  
195 The Delectable Deviation VS 4c * 36
196 Perched Flake D 60
197 Be Calmed E1 6c * 2
198 Force Nine E4 6c * 10
199 Port Crack S 4a * 79
200 Time Out E2 5c * 27
201 Starboard Crack E1 5b * 12
  Magic Roundabout Boulders
203 Force Nine f7A+ ** 10
204 Be Calmed f6B * 3
205 Be Calmed Right-Hand f6C+ * 3
206 Magic Arête f5+ ** 50
207 The Finger
-
f3 26
208 Jamless f5+ * 22
209 Arête On Left f7A * 1
210 Epilogue f7A ** 23
211 The Rammer f3+ ** 62
212 Monologue f7B+ ** 25
213 The Pinches f6B ** 55
214 Practice Chimney f3 35
215 Dialogue f7B+ * 7
216 Cracked Arête f5+ * 40
  Roman Nose Buttress
218 Big Richard S 4a 6
219 The Proboscid E1 5a 5
220 The Crippler HVS 5a *** 80
221 Escape E1 5b 2
222 Mantrap HVD 17
  The Pinnacle
224 Wheel of Misfortune f6A+ 1
225 Great Scene Baby S 4a 61
226 Great Scene Baby Direct VS 5b 7
227 Groovy Baby HS 4b 25
228 Pile Driver HVS 5a * 29
229 The Press E1 5b ** 22
230 Night of Lust E4 6b *  
231 Reg E7 7a *** 1
232 Curfew HVS 5b * 7
233 Foord's Folly E2 6a *** 42
234 The Swinger VS 4c ** 44
235 The Dogger V4 6b 1
  Night of Lust Bouldering
237 Press Direct f6B * 40
238 Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 36
239 Lust Left-Hand f7B ** 30
240 Night of Lust Start f6C+ *** 57
241 Night of Lust Sit Start f7A  
242 Runnel Entry f6C * 26
243 Foord's Folly Start f6A ** 16
  Last Rocks
245 Slow Hand Clap E2 5c 4
246 Modesty Crack D 9
247 California Screaming f7B ** 2
248 The Brag VS 5a * 4
249 Shark's Fin HS 5a *** 230
250 Sharks Fin Dyno f4+ *** 21
251 Early Retirement D 9
252 Rash Challenge E1 5a 1
253 Honking Bank Worker E2 5c 1
254 Extended Credit HVS 5a * 4
255 Caramta S 4a 8
256 Highneken f7B+ ** 1
257 The Prism VD 9
258 Approaching Dark E1 6a 1
259 Lechery HS 4a 3
260 Ceiling Zero HVS 4c * 3
261 Pocket Wall HS 4a 5
262 Uncle Scarface V4 * 1
263 Curver HVD 12
264 Fist of Fun E6 6c ** 1
265 Old Fogey E3 5c ** 19
266 Old Fogey Direct E5 6b *** 4
267 The Fogey Prow f7C  
268 King Harold S 4a * 13
269 Little Giraffe Man HS 4a * 11
270 Scratches f7C+ ** 1
  Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING
272 North Cheek VD 5
273 Middle Route S 2
274 The Doleman S 2
275 Collar Bone
-
D 3
276 The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
277 Owl'ole
-
D 3
278 Hemm Line f7A ** 1

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