UKC

Climbs 259
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle
2 East Face M 19
3 After Eight S 6
4 Southern Crack VD 12
5 Playaway V0+ 1
6 The Whale V3+ 1
7 Shallow Run VB 1
  Loaf and Cheese Area
9 Assembled Techniques E5 6a * 1
10 Loaf and Cheese VS 4c * 38
11 Dream Fighter E3 6a 2
12 Green Crack VS 5a * 60
13 National Acrobat E5 6c *** 3
14 Traveller in Time E4 6a *** 158
15 Body Popp E4 6b ** 18
16 Wall and Groove S 4a * 211
17 The Arête S 4a * 229
18 Louie Groove E1 5b * 508
19 Leeds Slab HS 4b * 302
20 Leeds Crack D * 416
21 Leeds Arête HVS 5b 1
22 Honest Jonny VD 246
23 Bilberry Roof V1 2
  Undertaker
25 The Undertaker
-
E3 6a * 17
26 Melvyn Bragg f7B *** 13
27 Pink Flake f5 21
28 Mantel f4 8
29 The Letter T f6A 3
30 Twin Cracks
-
D 21
31 Double Chin
-
S 11
32 Prowler HVS 4c 10
33 The Underling V2 2
  The Crank Area
35 Steeper V0+ 5a 5
36 Equilibria V1 5b 4
37 The Great Zawn HVS 5a ** 69
38 Broken Groove D * 128
39 Broken Groove Arête
-
D 39
40 Gully Arête E1 5c 2
41 Wellingtons VD * 85
42 Masochism E1 5b * 76
43 T'rival Traverse E2 6a 4
44 Rock Trivia E2 6c * 4
45 Trivial Traverse HVS 5a * 8
46 Sneeze E1 5b * 93
47 The Crank VS 5a ** 436
48 Ultimate Sculpture E8 7a ** 1
  South Buttress
50 Chockstone Chimney VD 69
51 Maximum Hype E3 5c * 1
52 Waiting For The Lions E3 5c * 5
53 Gumshoe E2 5c *** 89
54 Wine Gums E4 6a ** 1
55 Tally Not HVS 5c * 20
56 Battle of the Bulge VS 4b ** 347
57 Gunfire HVS 4c * 5
58 The Cannon VS 4c * 97
59 Torture E4 5c 7
60 Whilly's Whopper VS 4c 49
61 Phallic Crack HVD 4a *** 579
62 Alcatraz E1 5b ** 76
63 Juan Cur E5 6a * 7
64 The Untouchable E1 5b ** 59
65 Corner Crack S 4a * 133
66 The Rippler HVS 5a * 19
67 Midge f6A 2
68 Cleg f4+ 5
69 Bodge V2 5b *  
  Lower Tier
71 Sensible Shoes f5 * 13
72 Crab Walk Direct f5+ ** 33
73 Crab Walk Direct VS 5b 16
74 Roof Direct f6C * 53
75 Smoothment Traverse f6B * 60
76 Overlap
-
V2 5c 7
77 Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon f7A+ ** 1
78 Sketching Wildly E6 6c **  
79 Crab Walk S 4a * 101
80 Brown's Crack E2 5c ** 103
81 Prostration HVS 5b ** 129
82 Rock Climbing in Britain f7A+ * 38
83 Early Esk Ape f6B 5
84 Roll Off f5+ * 30
85 Roll Model V1 1
86 Tit Grip f7C+ *  
87 Cake f6A * 34
88 Collywood f6C+ ** 75
89 Colly Wobble E4 6b ** 3
90 Don's Crack HVS 5b * 120
91 Bridgy's Metro Madness V5 2
92 Hem Line
-
f7A * 62
93 Tierdrop E5 6b *** 24
Climb name Grade
94 Tierdrop f7A+ *** 73
95 Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B **  
96 Tier's End VS 5a 46
97 Tier's End Sit Start f5 ** 33
98 Last Drop f5 47
99 Abdomen S 4a 17
  Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering
  Dirty Warm Ups
102 DCB Problem 1 V1 5c 15
103 DCB Problem 2 V0 5a 10
104 DCB Problem 3 V1 5b 19
105 DCB Problem 4 V0- 4c 20
106 DCB Problem 5 V0 5a 15
107 Scotch eggs V3 6a * 2
  Main Area
109 Up the Bottom V3 2
110 Easy Prow f4+ ** 77
111 Little Prow f6C+ * 16
112 Slappy Seconds V5 2
113 The Scoop f5+ ** 94
114 The Lurch f6B ** 36
115 Ossie's Bulge f6B+ *** 187
116 Ram Air f7B+ *** 12
117 Elastic Wall f6C ** 26
118 The Arête f5+ * 66
119 5c Wall f6A ** 71
120 Baby Groove f3 * 75
121 Mansize f7C 25
122 Hanging Crack f4+ 38
123 Classic Mantel f5+ * 37
124 Saian f6C * 1
125 Billberries Indirect Direct V3 5a 1
126 A Close Shave E2 5c *  
127 Johnny's Groove
-
V8 6c  
128 Crocodile Slot f5 21
129 Right Slot f5 6
  Dangerous Crocodile Snogging
131 The Comedian VS 4b * 46
132 The Comedian Direct HVS 5a 9
133 Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
134 Camelian Crack VD * 126
135 Pat's Parched E1 5b 23
136 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging E7 6b *** 17
137 Blockbuster E5 6c * 3
138 Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop E7 6c *** 8
139 Elastic Limit E2 6a * 9
  Boomerang Buttress
141 Rem's Runnel E3 5a 1
142 Seb's Crack HVS 5b  
143 Pammies other Cleavage E2 5c **  
144 Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep E4 6b * 11
145 The Wriggler HS 4b 18
146 Arête and Crack VD ** 257
147 Handrail E2 5c * 17
148 Handrail Direct E4 6a * 7
149 Cedez le Passage E6 6b  
150 Assegai VS 5a * 25
151 Bowrosin VS 4c * 76
152 English Towns E3 5c * 15
153 Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
154 Boomerang VD *** 696
155 Wick Slip E5 6b ***  
156 Monty E4 6b * 1
157 Watercourse HS 4b 34
158 Dan's Dare VS 4c 8
159 Gully Wall HVS 5a 5
  Ramshaw Buttress
161 Little Nasty E1 5b 14
162 Electric Savage E3 5c * 1
163 Ramshaw Crack E4 6a *** 51
164 Four Purists
-
VS 5a 6
165 Never, Never Land E7 6b *** 25
166 Green Corner S 4a 21
167 Zigzag Route VD 14
168 Zigzag Route Variation HS 4c 1
  Imposition Area
170 Roller Coaster E6 6c * 1
171 Boom Bip E7 7a ** 2
172 Imposition E2 5b ** 33
173 Iron Horse Crack D * 59
174 Scooped Surprise E3 6a 1
175 Tricouni Crack HS 4b * 154
176 Rubber Crack VS 4c 30
177 Darkness HS 4b 59
178 Army Route
-
D 17
179 Dusk
-
D 10
  Flaky Buttress
181 Flake Gully M 34
182 Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
183 Flaky Wall Direct VS 4b ** 189
184 Flaky Wall Indirect VS 4c * 27
185 Flaky Wall Super Direct E1 5b * 1
186 Cracked Gully D * 95
Climb name Grade
187 Cracked Arête VD * 58
188 Arête Wall VD * 56
189 Crystal Tipps E1 5c * 18
190 The Ultra Direct E2 6b * 3
191 Magic Roundabout Super Direct E1 5c * 34
192 Magic Roundabout Direct HVS 4c ** 79
193 Magic Roundabout S 4a ** 274
194 Mystic Meg S 4a 2
195 Saul's Bypass HVS 5b *  
196 The Delectable Deviation VS 4c * 36
197 Perched Flake D 63
198 Be Calmed E1 6c * 2
199 Force Nine E4 6c * 10
200 Port Crack S 4a * 83
201 Time Out E2 5c * 29
202 Starboard Crack E1 5b * 12
  Magic Roundabout Boulders
204 Force Nine f7A+ ** 11
205 Be Calmed f6B * 3
206 Be Calmed Right-Hand f6C+ * 3
207 Magic Arête f5+ ** 53
208 The Finger
-
f3 28
209 Jamless f5+ * 25
210 Arête On Left f7A * 1
211 Epilogue f7A ** 24
212 The Rammer f3+ ** 65
213 Monologue f7B+ ** 28
214 The Pinches f6B ** 60
215 Practice Chimney f3 36
216 Dialogue f7B+ * 9
217 Cracked Arête f5+ * 43
  Roman Nose Buttress
219 Big Richard S 4a 9
220 The Proboscid E1 5a 5
221 The Crippler HVS 5a *** 89
222 Escape E1 5b 2
223 Mantrap HVD 18
  The Pinnacle
225 Wheel of Misfortune f6A+ 1
226 Great Scene Baby S 4a 64
227 Great Scene Baby Direct VS 5b 7
228 Groovy Baby HS 4b 25
229 Pile Driver HVS 5a * 29
230 The Press E1 5b ** 22
231 Night of Lust E4 6b *  
232 Reg E7 7a *** 1
233 Curfew HVS 5b * 8
234 Foord's Folly E2 6a *** 44
235 The Swinger VS 4c ** 44
236 The Dogger V4 6b 1
  Night of Lust Bouldering
238 Press Direct f6B * 42
239 Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 38
240 Lust Left-Hand f7B ** 35
241 Night of Lust Start f6C+ *** 60
242 Night of Lust Sit Start f7A 3
243 Runnel Entry f6C * 27
244 Foord's Folly Start f6A ** 17
  Last Rocks
246 Slow Hand Clap E2 5c 4
247 Modesty Crack D 9
248 California Screaming f7B ** 2
249 The Brag VS 5a * 4
250 Shark's Fin HS 5a *** 202
251 Sharks Fin Dyno f4+ *** 24
252 Early Retirement D 9
253 Rash Challenge E1 5a 1
254 Honking Bank Worker E2 5c 1
255 Extended Credit HVS 5a * 4
256 Caramta S 4a 8
257 Highneken f7B+ ** 1
258 The Prism VD 9
259 Approaching Dark E1 6a 1
260 Lechery HS 4a 3
261 Ceiling Zero HVS 4c * 3
262 Pocket Wall HS 4a 5
263 Uncle Scarface V4 * 1
264 Curver HVD 12
265 Fist of Fun E6 6c ** 1
266 Old Fogey E3 5c ** 20
267 Old Fogey Direct E5 6b *** 4
268 The Fogey Prow f7C  
269 King Harold S 4a * 13
270 Little Giraffe Man HS 4a * 11
271 Scratches f7C+ ** 2
  Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING
273 North Cheek VD 5
274 Middle Route S 3
275 The Doleman S 2
276 Collar Bone
-
D 3
277 The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
278 Owl'ole
-
D 3
279 Hemm Line f7A ** 2

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