Climbs 254
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pinnacle 
2East FaceM 18
3After EightS 6
4Southern CrackVD 11
5PlayawayV0+ 1
6The WhaleV3+ 1
7Shallow RunVB 1
 Loaf and Cheese Area 
9Assembled TechniquesE5 6a *1
10Loaf and CheeseVS 4c *37
11Dream FighterE3 6a 2
12Green CrackVS 5a *56
13National AcrobatE5 6c ***2
14Traveller in TimeE4 6a ***180
15Body PoppE4 6b **17
16Wall and GrooveS 4a *199
17The ArêteS 4a *218
18Louie GrooveE1 5b *519
19Leeds SlabHS 4b *284
20Leeds CrackD *394
21Leeds ArêteHVS 5b 1
22Honest JonnyVD 236
 Undertaker 
24The Undertaker
-
E3 6a *16
25Melvyn Braggf7B ***11
26Pink Flakef5 18
27Mantelf4 8
28The Letter Tf6A 2
29Twin Cracks
-
D 20
30Double Chin
-
S 10
31ProwlerHVS 4c 10
 The Crank Area 
33SteeperV0+ 5
34EquilibriaV1 4
35The Great Zawn
-
HVS 5a **60
36Broken Groove
-
D *117
37Broken Groove Arête
-
D 40
38Gully ArêteE1 5c 2
39Wellingtons
-
VD *74
40MasochismE1 5b *73
41T'rival TraverseE2 6a 4
42Rock TriviaE2 6c *4
43Trivial TraverseHVS 5a *8
44SneezeE1 5b *84
45The CrankVS 5a **409
46Ultimate SculptureE8 7a **1
 South Buttress 
48Chockstone ChimneyVD 63
49Maximum HypeE3 5c *1
50Waiting For The LionsE3 5c *3
51GumshoeE2 5c ***81
52Wine GumsE4 6a **1
53Tally NotHVS 5c *19
54Battle of the BulgeVS 4b **324
55GunfireHVS 4c *4
56The CannonVS 4c *91
57TortureE4 5c 7
58Whilly's WhopperVS 4c 47
59Phallic CrackHVD 4a ***553
60AlcatrazE1 5b **65
61Juan CurE5 6a *6
62The UntouchableE1 5b **56
63Corner CrackS 4a *123
64The RipplerHVS 5a *18
65Midgef6A 2
66Clegf4+ 5
67BodgeV2 * 
 Lower Tier 
69Sensible Shoesf5 *11
70Crab Walk Directf5+ **30
71Crab Walk DirectVS 5b 16
72Roof Directf6C *36
73Smoothment Traversef6B *47
74Overlap
-
V2 7
75Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragonf7A+ **1
76Sketching WildlyE6 6c ** 
77Crab WalkS 4a *94
78Brown's CrackE2 5c **100
79ProstrationHVS 5b **125
80Rock Climbing in Britainf7A+ *25
81Roll Offf5+ *22
82Tit Gripf7C+ * 
83Cakef6A *25
84Collywoodf6C+ **62
85Colly WobbleE4 6b **3
86Don's CrackHVS 5b *111
87Bridgy's Metro MadnessV5  
88Hem Linef7A *40
89TierdropE5 6b ***20
90Tierdropf7A+ ***62
91Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B ** 
92Tier's EndVS 5a 44
93Tier's End Sit Startf5 **22
94Last Dropf5 38
95AbdomenS 4a 17
 Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering 
 Dirty Warm Ups 
98DCB Problem 1V1 15
99DCB Problem 2V0 10
100DCB Problem 3V1 19
101DCB Problem 4V0- 20
102DCB Problem 5V0 15
103Scotch eggsV3 *2
 Main Area 
105Up the BottomV3 2
106Easy Prowf4+ **63
107Little Prowf6C+ *14
108Slappy SecondsV5 2
109The Scoopf5+ **82
110The Lurchf6B **33
111Ossie's Bulgef6B+ ***167
112Ram Airf7B+ ***12
113Elastic Wallf6C **23
114The Arêtef5+ *62
1155c Wallf6A **63
116Baby Groovef3 *67
117Mansizef7C 4
118Hanging Crackf4+ 35
119Classic Mantelf5+ *33
120Saianf6C *1
121Billberries Indirect DirectV3 1
122A Close ShaveE2 5c * 
123Johnny's Groove
-
V8  
124Crocodile Slotf5 19
125Right Slotf5 6
 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging 
127The ComedianVS 4b *46
128The Comedian DirectHVS 5a 9
129Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
130Camelian CrackVD *113
131Pat's ParchedE1 5b 22
132Dangerous Crocodile SnoggingE7 6b ***15
133BlockbusterE5 6c *3
134Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity ClopE7 6c ***7
135Elastic LimitE2 6a *9
 Boomerang Buttress 
137Rem's RunnelE3 5a 1
138Seb's CrackHVS 5b  
139Pammies other CleavageE2 5c ** 
140Creep, Leap, Creep, CreepE4 6b *9
141The WrigglerHS 4b 17
142Arête and CrackVD **233
143HandrailE2 5c *15
144Handrail DirectE4 6a *6
145Cedez le PassageE6 6b  
146AssegaiVS 5a *22
147BowrosinVS 4c *69
148English TownsE3 5c *12
149Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
150BoomerangVD ***648
151Wick SlipE5 6b *** 
152MontyE4 6b *1
153WatercourseHS 4b 33
154Dan's DareVS 4c 7
155Gully WallHVS 5a 4
 Ramshaw Buttress 
157Little NastyE1 5b 13
158Electric SavageE3 5c *1
159Ramshaw CrackE4 6a ***76
160Four Purists
-
VS 5a 4
161Never, Never LandE7 6b ***18
162Green CornerS 4a 21
163Zigzag RouteVD 14
164Zigzag Route VariationHS 4c 1
 Imposition Area 
166Roller CoasterE6 6c *1
167Boom BipE7 7a **2
168ImpositionE2 5b **29
169Iron Horse CrackD *53
170Scooped SurpriseE3 6a 1
171Tricouni CrackHS 4b *141
172Rubber CrackVS 4c 29
173DarknessHS 4b 55
174Army Route
-
D 16
175Dusk
-
D 10
 Flaky Buttress 
177Flake GullyM 33
178Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
179Flaky Wall DirectVS 4b **175
180Flaky Wall IndirectVS 4c *24
181Flaky Wall Super Direct
-
E1 * 
182Cracked GullyD *86
183Cracked ArêteVD *54
184Arête WallVD *52
185Crystal TippsE1 5c *17
186The Ultra DirectE2 6b *3
187Magic Roundabout Super DirectE1 5c *32
188Magic Roundabout DirectHVS 4c **64
189Magic RoundaboutS 4a **239
190Mystic MegS 4a 2
191Saul's BypassHVS 5b * 
192The Delectable DeviationVS 4c *36
193Perched FlakeD 59
194Be CalmedE1 6c *2
195Force NineE4 6c *7
196Port CrackS 4a *78
197Time OutE2 5c *25
198Starboard CrackE1 5b *12
 Magic Roundabout Boulders 
200Force Ninef7A+ **6
201Be Calmedf6B *3
202Be Calmed Right-Handf6C+ *3
203Magic Arêtef5+ **47
204The Finger
-
f3 26
205Jamlessf5+ *22
206Arête On Leftf7A *1
207Epiloguef7A **22
208The Rammerf3+ **60
209Monologuef7B+ **21
210The Pinchesf6B **55
211Practice Chimneyf3 33
212Dialoguef7B+ *6
213Cracked Arêtef5+ *39
 Roman Nose Buttress 
215Big RichardS 4a 6
216The ProboscidE1 5a 5
217The CripplerHVS 5a ***95
218EscapeE1 5b 2
219MantrapHVD 17
 The Pinnacle 
221Wheel of Misfortunef6A+ 1
222Great Scene BabyS 4a 60
223Great Scene Baby DirectVS 5b 7
224Groovy BabyHS 4b 25
225Pile DriverHVS 5a *30
226The PressE1 5b **20
227Night of LustE4 6b * 
228RegE7 7a ***1
229CurfewHVS 5b *7
230Foord's FollyE2 6a ***38
231The SwingerVS 4c **44
232The DoggerV4 1
 Night of Lust Bouldering 
234Press Directf6B *30
235Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 30
236Lust Left-Handf7B **23
237Night of Lust Startf6C+ ***48
238Runnel Entryf6C *25
239Foord's Folly Startf6A **12
 Last Rocks 
241Slow Hand ClapE2 5c 4
242Modesty CrackD 9
243California Screamingf7B **2
244The BragVS 5a *4
245Shark's FinHS 5a ***183
246Sharks Fin Dynof4+ ***21
247Early RetirementD 9
248Rash ChallengeE1 5a 1
249Honking Bank WorkerE2 5c 1
250Extended CreditHVS 5a *4
251CaramtaS 4a 8
252Highnekenf7B+ **1
253The PrismVD 9
254Approaching DarkE1 6a 1
255LecheryHS 4a 3
256Ceiling ZeroHVS 4c *3
257Pocket WallHS 4a 5
258Uncle ScarfaceV4 *1
259CurverHVD 12
260Fist of FunE6 6c **1
261Old FogeyE3 5c **18
262Old Fogey DirectE5 6b ***4
263The Fogey Prowf7C  
264King HaroldS 4a *13
265Little Giraffe ManHS 4a *11
266Scratchesf7C+ **1
 Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING 
268North CheekVD 5
269Middle RouteS 2
270The DolemanS 2
271Collar Bone
-
D 3
272The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
273Owl'ole
-
D 3
274Hemm Linef7A **1

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