Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 300m a.s.l
A gear placing lesson © omerta
ACCESS - Peregrines sometimes nest at this crag in Spring. Please keep away if the nests are in place. It isn't likely that any signs will be placed at the crag to warn people.2016 Access Update: Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July. Reason - Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest at Pontesford Rocks and a restriction applies to the right hand buttress and descent gully from this buttress. This leaves the popular left hand buttress open for climbing. It is possible that the birds could change location in future however, so please respect any local signage.
Set in the idyllic Shropshire hills and providing a concentration of lower grade climbs.There are both multi-pitch routes of up to 60m and single pitches of 15m.Recommended classics include Oak Tree Wall Direct (VD), Wall End Climb (VD), Finale Groove(VS), Varsity Buttress (VS) and The Superdirect (E1).
Nice little crag with excellent views. Routes are long enough to be interesting and the rock felt secure even in the middle of January. Descent is either a long walk-around or down a steep muddy gully; either way take a change of footwear unless you like tobogganing down slopes at speed. Couldn't see a 60m route, but will be back for another look. [Andrew Primrose 1/03]
As you enter the village of Pontesford on the A488, look for a tractor emporium on your left and immediately afterwards a small side road with a sign for the Earls Hill Nature Reserve.
Follow the single track road up to a car park on top of a small crest (room for about 7 cars).
After parking follow the path which forks almost immediately, take the left-hand path that runs down and around the hill. Walk for 15 minutes through woods and after you enter open grassland and go through a second gate take a path that heads off to the right from the main path up a steep scree slope.
The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.
The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if the birds had nested on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...
In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.