Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 300m a.s.l
A gear placing lesson © omerta
ACCESS - Peregrines sometimes nest at this crag in Spring. Please keep away if the nests are in place. It isn't likely that any signs will be placed at the crag to warn people.
2017 Access Update: Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July. Reason - Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest at Pontesford Rocks and a restriction applies to the right-hand (East) buttress and descent gully from this buttress. This leaves the popular left-hand (west) and the needle buttresses open for climbing. It is possible that the birds could change location in future, however, so please respect any local signage.
Set in the idyllic Shropshire hills and providing a concentration of lower grade climbs.There are both multi-pitch routes of up to 60m and single pitches of 15m.Recommended classics include Oak Tree Wall Direct (VD), Wall End Climb (VD), Finale Groove(VS), Varsity Buttress (VS) and The Superdirect (E1).
Nice little crag with excellent views. Routes are long enough to be interesting and the rock felt secure even in the middle of January. Descent is either a long walk-around or down a steep muddy gully; either way, take a change of footwear unless you like tobogganing down slopes at speed. Couldn't see a 60m route, but will be back for another look. [Andrew Primrose 1/03]
As you enter the village of Pontesford on the A488, look for a tractor Emporium on your left and immediately afterwards a small side road with a sign for the Earls Hill Nature Reserve.
Follow the single track road up to a car park on top of a small crest signed Earls Hill Nature Reserve (previously there was room for about 7 cars but was extended in early 2017, and will now accommodate ~20).
After parking follow the larger path from the car park end (not the steps through the woods). Walk for 10-15 minutes on that path and through fields and after you go through a third gate take an obvious path that heads off up to the right from the main path towards a steep scree slope and the crag. Immediately after the third gate is a sign/notice board about the area, including signs about the bird ban.
The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.
The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if the birds had nested on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...
In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest at Pontesford Rocks and a restriction applies to the right hand buttress and descent gully from this buttress. This leaves the popular left hand buttress open for climbing. It is possible that the birds could change location in future however, so please respect any local signage.
|2||West Wall Direct Start||VS 4c||39|
|3||West Wall||M *||61|
|4||West Crack||M *||63|
|5||Moonlight Variation||D *||87|
|6||Eliminate G||HVS 5a *||102|
|7||Surplus Requirements-Not||HVS 5a *||21|
|8||Oak Tree Wall Direct||HVD **||245|
|10||Right-Hand Route||VD *||139|
|11||Stoats Chimney||M *||93|
|13||Wall End climb||VD *||125|
|14||Kit Hill King||VS 4b||12|
|15||Wall End Slab Direct||
|16||Wall End Climb The Notch Variation||S 4a *||43|
|17||Finale Groove||VS 4b **||136|
|18||Awaken||VS 5a *||14|
|21||Hawthorne Crack||S 4a *||69|
|23||Direct Route||S 4a||74|
|24||The Superdirect||E1 5a||35|
|25||Right Hand Wall||M||31|
|28||Girdle Traverse of Fifty Foot Wall||
|29||Fifty Foot Wall Traverse||V2|
|30||Varsity Buttress||VS 4b *||57|
|31||Vive La Wombat||E2 5b|
|34||Varsity Wall||E2 5b|
|37||Crow's Nest Chimney||
|43||OTE Meal||E1 5a||1|
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