Climbs 179
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Buttress
2 Rubbish 1
-
VB 4b 3
3 Brownie
-
V0- 4c 3
4 boulevard
-
V0 5a 6
5 Rubbish as Well none 4a 4
  Sally's Garden
7 Badgers Crack f6A ** 4
8 BTB f6C * 5
9 Golden Sally f7A *** 2
10 Joesef Merrick's pet badger f7A ** 2
11 The Ousted Louse f5  
  The Far Buttress (The Alley)
13 Airline
-
V2 6a 4
14 Big Babe VB 6a ** 1
15 Hang Loose E3 6b * 4
16 Statins V5 * 1
17 Cholesterol V11 7a  
18 Cholesterol Traverse f7A * 5
19 Martians are Here V2 6a * 4
20 Twiggy
-
V1 26
21 Hum Vee VB 5b ** 5
22 Fatty Base none 3a 19
23 Batman HVS 5a ** 57
24 In The Court of the Sludgebaron E3 5c 4
25 Fin'ally Makinly's Groove E7 6c **  
26 Black Cat
-
V0 * 39
27 Stay Cool V8+ 6c *** 18
28 Snapper V2 * 28
29 Supa Dupa Fly V1 30
30 Sizmatic V2 ** 26
31 Free Bandits V4 * 16
32 Bodyshock V1 * 56
33 past cruising
-
V1 5b ** 86
34 Deep Slot Dyno V3 6a ** 13
35 Thread Hole V1 40
36 The Ramp
-
V1 41
37 Saboteur
-
V0- 48
38 Boosh V0 43
39 Cig Arhhh V0 23
40 Boston Shorts none 5a * 13
41 Wolf Mother
-
VB 5b ** 6
42 Manga V1 11
  Main Wall area
44 Short Crack
-
V1 3
45 Short Corner
-
V2 1
46 Dismissed E1 5c 2
47 Slapper E1 5b 15
48 Positive E2 5b 5
49 Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a * 17
50 A Line In The Sand E7 6c ** 1
51 Scrabble E5 6b 1
52 Cones and Current E5 6b ** 119
53 Jump E5 6b ** 32
54 Marlene in the Corner E5 6a ** 18
55 Marlene E4 6a *** 71
56 Marlene Direct E7 6c ** 17
57 Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b *** 99
58 Gathering Sun E7 6c *** 59
59 Bass Drum Heart E6 6b 2
60 The Nuance E5 6b ** 28
61 Nonsense
-
E5 6b ** 13
62 Cassini E8 6c *** 2
63 Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 6c *** 12
64 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 6c *** 39
65 Bird o'Clock E7 6b 2
66 Bird Brain E7 6b * 2
67 Tombola E7 6c ** 56
68 My Piano E8 6c *** 49
69 Play Me E8 7a *  
70 Red Square E2 5b *** 266
71 Time For Tea E7 7a * 11
72 Notional Trust E5 6a 11
73 Le Cirque E7 6c ** 3
74 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 7a *** 4
75 Bruce Factor E3 5c ** 28
76 Pot Noodle E3 6a * 7
77 Khanaan E6 6b 2
78 Ramblin' Days E2 5b ** 23
79 Open Air
-
E3 5b ** 25
80 Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c * 1
81 Inspiration E4 5c 6
82 Man of ideas E3 5b 2
  Kynaston's Cave Area
84 Orange Disorder E5 6a 5
85 Cave Corner E2 5c *** 2
86 Berlin Wall Traverse V8 * 11
87 Sharp Slap V2 13
88 The Super Traverse 8a+  
89 The Highwayman's Escape V5 6b 27
90 Jug U'La
-
V0+ 5a ** 75
91 Dead Head V2 * 108
92 Sand Dish
-
V1 33
93 Meat Hooks V3 5c ** 65
94 Did Nick Tick? V5 6b ** 12
95 Planch V6 6b/c 16
96 Il y a Stazi E8 6c *** 4
97 Il y a V5 6b * 29
98 Stazi V5 6b * 13
99 Berlin Wall Eliminates V8+  
100 Berlin Wall E8 6c ** 15
101 Berlin start
-
V2 5c+ 54
102 Chipper Sitting V6 * 1
103 Berlin's Fallen V4 6a/b ** 94
104 CUN-Trol f7A+ *** 2
105 Chipper
-
V2 6a 29
106 Niche V0 5a * 12
107 Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 3
108 Snail Trail V3 6a 7
109 ST V5 6b * 26
110 Ugawa V0 5a * 14
111 Wing Wall none 4b 12
112 Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 16
113 Zion
-
V0 5b 21
114 Nine Volts none 5b * 10
115 Shropshire Slapper none 5b ** 11
116 Bonobo
-
V0 5b 33
117 Profit is Doom V2 6a * 4
118 Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 5b 20
119 Scuffle none 5b * 14
120 Images
-
V2 6a ** 14
121 Pock
-
V4 6b ** 14
122 Ripple
-
V1 5c * 31
123 Immaculato
-
V3 6a ** 16
124 Punto none 5a * 6
  Short Wall area
126 Dread
-
E2 5b 11
127 Bob Mambo Rabbits E1 5c 6
128 Pant E1 5b * 49
129 Panting
-
V0- 21
130 Crackle
-
V2 ** 17
131 Snap E1 5c 34
132 Short Crack VS 5a * 98
133 Grounded V2 5c 20
134 The Traverse
-
V2 6a 14
  Main Quarry
136 Imagination E4 6a *** 38
137 My Snorkel E6 6c ** 9
138 Straight Talk
-
E3 5c ** 74
139 Yukan II E7 6b *** 85
140 Yukan III (Direct Finish) E7 6c ** 4
141 Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c * 6
142 The Nesscliffe Monster E7 6c ** 4
143 Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
144 Rite Time
-
E7 6c ** 2
145 Local Start for Local Boys E6 6b * 1
146 Local Rite E8 6c *** 1
147 The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty) E6 6a *** 4
148 The Pit and the Pendulum E1 5b * 6
149 Full Sun
-
E6 6b **  
150 Sunburst E7 6c *** 1
151 Leaf Storm E6 6b ** 6
152 The Right Initials E5 6a * 1
153 The Devil's Chair E5 6b  
154 My Violin E4 5c 1
155 Crocodile Crack none 6b  
  Little Northumberland (The Terrace)
157 Half A Northumberland V0 5a * 24
158 Ceiling V3 * 7
159 Nesscliffe Witch Project V3 6a * 1
160 Little Wonderland V10 *** 7
161 Rigpa V9 6c ** 23
162 Northumberland Wonderland V7 *** 97
163 Welcome to the Wood f7C+ *** 3
164 Kyloe In V7 ** 31
165 Northumberland Little V9 ** 4
166 Pete's Route V6 6b 14
167 Right-Hand Route V4 6b ** 98
168 One Inch Pinch V7 4
169 Fluid Dynamics f7C+ *** 3
170 Little Northumberland V9 *** 30
  Cad's Leap
  Bow Wall
173 Subtilitas V9 6c ** 6
174 Subtilitas SS f8A *** 1
175 Bow Traverse V7 6b 15
  Hawk Wall
177 Hawkeye V7 18
178 Streethawk V5  
179 Buzz Meeks V4 6a 12
180 Moon Spinner V4 6a/b * 14
181 The Rampant Chopper V4 6a/b * 20
182 Kneel Hook Traverse V4  
183 Sabred Shield V4 1
184 Reunification V8+ * 1
185 Mega Tonne Trav V0+ 5a * 1
186 Tonky V2 6a * 1
187 Mincer V1 5b 3
188 Bow Reverse V7 * 1
189 Bueno
-
VE 2
190 Round About VE 5a 3

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