Climbs 176
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sunset Buttress 
2Rubbish 1
VB 3
V0- 3
V0 6
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 4
 Sally's Garden 
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *5
9Golden Sallyf7A ***2
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **2
11The Ousted Lousef5  
 The Far Buttress (The Alley) 
V2 4
14Big BabeVB **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *5
19Martians are HereV2 *4
V1 26
21Hum VeeVB **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 19
23BatmanHVS 5a **48
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black Cat
V0 *39
27Stay CoolV8+ ***18
28SnapperV2 *28
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 30
30SizmaticV2 **26
31Free BanditsV4 *16
32BodyshockV1 *56
33past cruising
V1 **86
34Deep Slot DynoV3 **13
35Thread HoleV1 40
36The Ramp
V1 41
V0- 48
38BooshV0 43
39Cig ArhhhV0 23
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *13
41Wolf Mother
VB **6
42MangaV1 11
 Main Wall area 
44Short Crack
V1 3
45Short Corner
V2 1
46DismissedE1 5c 2
47SlapperE1 5b 15
48PositiveE2 5b 5
49Sex and Casual Ties
E3 6a *17
50ScrabbleE5 6b 1
51Cones and CurrentE5 6b **115
52JumpE5 6b **31
53Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **18
54MarleneE4 6a ***71
55Marlene DirectE7 6c **15
56Trouble in Toytown
E5 6b ***73
57Gathering SunE7 6c ***48
58Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 2
59The NuanceE5 6b **24
E5 6b **11
61Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***12
6210 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***30
63Bird BrainE7 6b *2
64TombolaE7 6c **43
65My PianoE8 6c ***39
66Play MeE8 7a * 
67Red SquareE2 5b ***215
68Time For TeaE7 7a *11
69Notional TrustE5 6a 11
70Le CirqueE7 6c **3
71A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***4
72Bruce FactorE3 5c **28
73Pot NoodleE3 6a *7
74KhanaanE6 6b 2
75Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **23
76Open Air
E3 5b **25
77Dreams are Reality
E3 5c *1
78InspirationE4 5c 6
79Man of ideasE3 5b 2
 Kynaston's Cave Area 
81Orange DisorderE5 6a 5
82 Cave CornerE2 5c ***2
83Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *10
84Sharp SlapV2 13
85The Super Traverse8a+  
86The Highwayman's EscapeV5 26
87Jug U'La
V0+ **73
88Dead HeadV2 *104
89Sand Dish
V1 32
90Meat HooksV3 **61
91Did Nick Tick?V5 **12
92PlanchV6 16
93Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
94Il y aV5 *28
95StaziV5 *13
96Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
97Berlin WallE8 6c **15
98Berlin start
V2 52
99Chipper SittingV6 *1
100Berlin's FallenV4 **88
101CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
V2 27
103NicheV0 *12
104Spitting feathers
E1 4c 3
105Snail TrailV3 7
106STV5 *25
107UgawaV0 *13
108Wing Wallnone 4b 12
109Wing Wrapper
none 5a 15
V0 20
111Nine Voltsnone 5b *10
112Shropshire Slappernone 5b **11
V0 33
114Profit is DoomV2 *4
115Joys of Tom Tom
V1 20
116Scufflenone 5b *13
V2 **14
V4 **13
V1 *30
V3 **15
121Puntonone 5a *6
 Short Wall area 
E2 5b 11
124Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 6
125PantE1 5b *47
V0- 21
V2 **17
128SnapE1 5c 32
129Short CrackVS 5a *98
130GroundedV2 19
131The Traverse
V2 12
 Main Quarry 
133ImaginationE4 6a ***38
134My SnorkelE6 6c **9
135Straight Talk
E3 5c **73
136Yukan IIE7 6b ***54
137Yukan III (Direct Finish)E7 6c **4
138Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
E7 6c *6
139The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **3
140Johnny Red
E6 6b 5
141Rite Time
E7 6c **2
142Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
143Local RiteE8 6c ***1
144The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
145The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
146Full Sun
E6 6b ** 
147SunburstE7 6c ***1
148Leaf StormE6 6b **6
149The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
150The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
151My ViolinE4 5c 1
152Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
 Little Northumberland (The Terrace) 
154Half A NorthumberlandV0 *23
155CeilingV3 *7
156Nesscliffe Witch ProjectV3 *1
157Little WonderlandV10 ***7
158RigpaV9 **23
159Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***82
160Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***3
161Kyloe InV7 **27
162Northumberland LittleV9 **4
163Pete's RouteV6 13
164Right-Hand RouteV4 **93
165One Inch PinchV7 3
166Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
167Little NorthumberlandV9 ***26
 Cad's Leap 
 Bow Wall 
170SubtilitasV9 **5
171Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
172Bow TraverseV7 15
 Hawk Wall 
174HawkeyeV7 18
176Buzz MeeksV4 12
177Moon SpinnerV4 *14
178The Rampant ChopperV4 *20
179Kneel Hook TraverseV4  
180Sabred ShieldV4 1
181ReunificationV8+ *1
182Mega Tonne TravV0+ *1
183TonkyV2 *1
184MincerV1 3
185Bow ReverseV7 *1
186Bueno *
VE 2
187Round About *VE 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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