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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 195
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. The guidebook description says to approach via the footpath opposite The Old Three Pigeons pub. This is fine, but there is no longer any parking there. A good approach is from the parking about 1/2 a mile(ish) up the lane directly opposite the pub. Drive past the school and the parking is about 200yds on your right.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Buttress
2 Rubbish 1
-
VB 4b 3
3 Brownie
-
V0- 4c 3
4 boulevard
-
V0 5a 6
5 Rubbish as Well none 4a 4
  Sally's Garden
7 Badgers Crack f6A ** 6
8 BTB f6C * 7
9 Golden Sally f7A *** 3
10 Joesef Merrick's pet badger f7A ** 4
11 The Ousted Louse f5 2
  The Far Buttress (The Alley)
13 Airline
-
V2 6a 4
14 Big Babe VB 6a ** 1
15 Hang Loose E3 6b * 4
16 Statins V5 * 1
17 Cholesterol V11 7a  
18 Cholesterol Traverse f7A * 6
19 Martians are Here V2 6a * 4
20 Twiggy
-
V1 25
21 Hum Vee VB 5b ** 5
22 Fatty Base none 3a 19
23 Batman HVS 5a ** 54
24 In The Court of the Sludgebaron E3 5c 4
25 Fin'ally Makinly's Groove E7 6c **  
26 Black Cat
-
V0 * 40
27 Stay Cool V8+ 6c *** 19
28 Snapper V2 * 30
29 Supa Dupa Fly V1 30
30 Sizmatic V2 ** 29
31 Free Bandits V4 * 17
32 Bodyshock V1 * 61
33 past cruising
-
V1 5b ** 91
34 Deep Slot Dyno V3 6a ** 13
35 Thread Hole V1 42
36 The Ramp
-
V1 44
37 Saboteur
-
V0- 48
38 Boosh V0 42
39 Cig Arhhh V0 22
40 Boston Shorts none 5a * 12
41 Wolf Mother
-
VB 5b ** 6
42 Manga V1 11
  Main Wall area
44 Short Crack
-
V1 5
45 Short Corner
-
V2 1
46 Dismissed E1 5c 2
47 Slapper E1 5b 15
48 Positive E2 5b 6
49 Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a * 18
50 A Line In The Sand E7 6c ** 1
51 Scrabble E5 6b 1
52 Cones and Current E5 6b ** 162
53 Jump E5 6b ** 41
54 Marlene in the Corner E5 6a ** 33
55 Marlene E4 6a *** 102
56 Marlene Direct E7 6c ** 38
57 Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b *** 132
58 Gathering Sun E7 6c *** 64
59 Bass Drum Heart E6 6b 2
60 The Nuance E5 6b ** 42
61 Nonsense
-
E5 6b ** 15
62 Cassini E8 6c *** 5
63 Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 6c *** 11
64 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 6c *** 55
65 Bird o'Clock E6 6b 7
66 Bird Brain E7 6b * 5
67 Tombola E7 6c ** 67
68 My Piano E8 6c *** 61
69 Play Me E8 7a *  
Climb name Grade
70 Red Square E2 5b *** 292
71 Time For Tea E7 7a * 13
72 Notional Trust E5 6a 18
73 Le Cirque E7 6c ** 2
74 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 7a *** 4
75 Bruce Factor E3 5c ** 30
76 Pot Noodle E3 6a * 7
77 Khanaan E6 6b 2
78 Ramblin' Days E2 5b ** 26
79 Open Air
-
E3 5b ** 27
80 Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c * 1
81 Inspiration E4 5c 8
82 Man of ideas E3 5b 2
83 Gathering Doubt none ** 1
84 GreatNess Wall
-
E10 7a  
  Kynaston's Cave Area
86 Orange Disorder E5 6a 5
87 Cave Corner E2 5c *** 4
88 Berlin Wall Traverse V8 * 15
89 Sharp Slap V2 21
90 The Super Traverse 8a+ 1
91 The Highwayman's Escape V5 6b 32
92 Jug U'La
-
V0+ 5a ** 84
93 Dead Head V2 * 136
94 Sand Dish
-
V1 36
95 Meat Hooks V3 5c ** 79
96 Did Nick Tick? V5 6b ** 13
97 Planch V6 6b/c 19
98 Il y a Stazi E8 6c *** 5
99 Il y a V5 6b * 35
100 Stazi V5 6b * 19
101 Berlin Wall Eliminates V8+  
102 Berlin Wall E8 6c ** 16
103 Berlin start
-
V2 5c+ 66
104 Chipper Sitting V6 * 3
105 Berlin's Fallen V4 6a/b ** 105
106 CUN-Trol f7A+ *** 2
107 Chipper
-
V2 6a 33
108 Niche V0 5a * 16
109 Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 4
110 Snail Trail V3 6a 9
111 ST V5 6b * 27
112 Ugawa V0 5a * 17
113 Wing Wall none 4b 13
114 Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 19
115 Zion
-
V0 5b 22
116 Nine Volts none 5b * 11
117 Shropshire Slapper none 5b ** 12
118 Bonobo
-
V0 5b 36
119 Profit is Doom V2 6a * 5
120 Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 5b 20
121 Scuffle none 5b * 14
122 Images
-
V2 6a ** 15
123 Pock
-
V4 6b ** 18
124 Ripple
-
V1 5c * 34
125 Immaculato
-
V3 6a ** 17
126 Punto none 5a * 6
  Short Wall area
128 Dread
-
E2 5b 11
129 Bob Mambo Rabbits E1 5c 6
130 Pant E1 5b * 53
131 Panting
-
V0- 21
132 Crackle
-
V2 ** 18
133 Snap E1 5c 35
134 Short Crack VS 5a * 112
135 Grounded V2 5c 23
136 The Traverse
-
V2 6a 16
  Main Quarry
138 Imagination E4 6a *** 35
Climb name Grade
139 My Snorkel E6 6c ** 13
140 Straight Talk
-
E3 5c ** 115
141 Yukan II E7 6b *** 129
142 Yukan III (Direct Finish) E7 6c ** 5
143 Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c * 6
144 The Nesscliffe Monster E7 6c ** 7
145 Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
146 Rite Time
-
E7 6c ** 4
147 Local Start for Local Boys E6 6b * 1
148 Local Rite E8 6c *** 2
149 The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty) E6 6a *** 7
150 The Pit and the Pendulum E1 5b * 6
151 Full Sun
-
E6 6b **  
152 Sunburst E7 6c *** 1
153 Leaf Storm E6 6b ** 8
154 The Right Initials E5 6a * 1
155 The Devil's Chair E5 6b  
156 My Violin E4 5c 1
157 Crocodile Crack none 6b  
158 Short Arete * f6A 1
  Little Northumberland (The Terrace)
160 Half A Northumberland V0 5a * 31
161 Ceiling V3 * 9
162 Nesscliffe Witch Project V3 6a * 2
163 Little Wonderland V10 *** 13
164 Rigpa V9 6c ** 29
165 Northumberland Wonderland V7 *** 116
166 Welcome to the Wood f7C+ *** 8
167 Kyloe In V7 ** 40
168 Northumberland Little V9 ** 6
169 Pete's Route V6 6b 18
170 Right-Hand Route V4 6b ** 121
171 One Inch Pinch V7 5
172 Fluid Dynamics f7C+ *** 4
173 Little Northumberland V9 *** 47
174 Nor-Lit-Nor f8A *** 4
175 The Animal Within V13 ***  
176 Sams direct Northumberland Wonderland eliminate) f7A+ * 9
177 Nesscliffe Witch Project RH Direct V4 * 1
178 Nor-lit-nor Long V11 ***  
179 Nor-lit-nor Sams Sit. V9 ***  
180 The Little Sam Link V12 *** 1
181 For Those Who Came Before Me V12 *** 1
182 Northumberland Wonderland Sams Sit. V8 *** 1
183 Big Move Thing V7 **  
184 The Local V13 **  
185 Rigpa Indirect V10 1
186 Punch Your Card V12 ***  
  Cad's Leap
  Bow Wall
189 Subtilitas V9 6c ** 7
190 Subtilitas SS f8A *** 1
191 Bow Traverse V7 6b 16
  Hawk Wall
193 Hawkeye V7 33
194 Streethawk V5  
195 Buzz Meeks V4 6a 17
196 Moon Spinner V4 6a/b * 15
197 The Rampant Chopper V4 6a/b * 35
198 Kneel Hook Traverse V4  
199 Sabred Shield V4 1
200 Reunification V8+ * 1
201 Mega Tonne Trav V0+ 5a * 2
202 Tonky V2 6a * 2
203 Mincer V1 5b 4
204 Bow Reverse V7 * 1
205 Bueno
-
VE 2
206 Round About VE 5a 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed Booth