Climbs 178
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Buttress
2 Rubbish 1
-
VB 4b 3
3 Brownie
-
V0- 4c 3
4 boulevard
-
V0 5a 6
5 Rubbish as Well none 4a 4
  Sally's Garden
7 Badgers Crack f6A ** 4
8 BTB f6C * 5
9 Golden Sally f7A *** 2
10 Joesef Merrick's pet badger f7A ** 2
11 The Ousted Louse f5  
  The Far Buttress (The Alley)
13 Airline
-
V2 6a 4
14 Big Babe VB 6a ** 1
15 Hang Loose E3 6b * 4
16 Statins V5 * 1
17 Cholesterol V11 7a  
18 Cholesterol Traverse f7A * 5
19 Martians are Here V2 6a * 4
20 Twiggy
-
V1 26
21 Hum Vee VB 5b ** 5
22 Fatty Base none 3a 19
23 Batman HVS 5a ** 57
24 In The Court of the Sludgebaron E3 5c 4
25 Fin'ally Makinly's Groove E7 6c **  
26 Black Cat
-
V0 * 39
27 Stay Cool V8+ 6c *** 18
28 Snapper V2 * 28
29 Supa Dupa Fly V1 30
30 Sizmatic V2 ** 26
31 Free Bandits V4 * 16
32 Bodyshock V1 * 56
33 past cruising
-
V1 5b ** 86
34 Deep Slot Dyno V3 6a ** 13
35 Thread Hole V1 40
36 The Ramp
-
V1 41
37 Saboteur
-
V0- 48
38 Boosh V0 43
39 Cig Arhhh V0 23
40 Boston Shorts none 5a * 13
41 Wolf Mother
-
VB 5b ** 6
42 Manga V1 11
  Main Wall area
44 Short Crack
-
V1 3
45 Short Corner
-
V2 1
46 Dismissed E1 5c 2
47 Slapper E1 5b 15
48 Positive E2 5b 5
49 Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a * 17
50 A Line In The Sand E7 6c ** 1
51 Scrabble E5 6b 1
52 Cones and Current E5 6b ** 117
53 Jump E5 6b ** 32
54 Marlene in the Corner E5 6a ** 18
55 Marlene E4 6a *** 71
56 Marlene Direct E7 6c ** 15
57 Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b *** 99
58 Gathering Sun E7 6c *** 58
59 Bass Drum Heart E6 6b 2
60 The Nuance E5 6b ** 24
61 Nonsense
-
E5 6b ** 13
62 Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 6c *** 12
63 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 6c *** 34
64 Bird o'Clock E7 6b 1
65 Bird Brain E7 6b * 2
66 Tombola E7 6c ** 55
67 My Piano E8 6c *** 42
68 Play Me E8 7a *  
69 Red Square E2 5b *** 265
70 Time For Tea E7 7a * 11
71 Notional Trust E5 6a 11
72 Le Cirque E7 6c ** 3
73 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 7a *** 4
74 Bruce Factor E3 5c ** 28
75 Pot Noodle E3 6a * 7
76 Khanaan E6 6b 2
77 Ramblin' Days E2 5b ** 23
78 Open Air
-
E3 5b ** 25
79 Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c * 1
80 Inspiration E4 5c 6
81 Man of ideas E3 5b 2
  Kynaston's Cave Area
83 Orange Disorder E5 6a 5
84 Cave Corner E2 5c *** 2
85 Berlin Wall Traverse V8 * 11
86 Sharp Slap V2 13
87 The Super Traverse 8a+  
88 The Highwayman's Escape V5 6b 26
89 Jug U'La
-
V0+ 5a ** 75
90 Dead Head V2 * 106
91 Sand Dish
-
V1 32
92 Meat Hooks V3 5c ** 65
93 Did Nick Tick? V5 6b ** 12
94 Planch V6 6b/c 16
95 Il y a Stazi E8 6c *** 4
96 Il y a V5 6b * 28
97 Stazi V5 6b * 13
98 Berlin Wall Eliminates V8+  
99 Berlin Wall E8 6c ** 15
100 Berlin start
-
V2 5c+ 53
101 Chipper Sitting V6 * 1
102 Berlin's Fallen V4 6a/b ** 94
103 CUN-Trol f7A+ *** 2
104 Chipper
-
V2 6a 28
105 Niche V0 5a * 12
106 Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 3
107 Snail Trail V3 6a 7
108 ST V5 6b * 26
109 Ugawa V0 5a * 14
110 Wing Wall none 4b 12
111 Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 16
112 Zion
-
V0 5b 21
113 Nine Volts none 5b * 10
114 Shropshire Slapper none 5b ** 11
115 Bonobo
-
V0 5b 33
116 Profit is Doom V2 6a * 4
117 Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 5b 20
118 Scuffle none 5b * 13
119 Images
-
V2 6a ** 14
120 Pock
-
V4 6b ** 13
121 Ripple
-
V1 5c * 30
122 Immaculato
-
V3 6a ** 15
123 Punto none 5a * 6
  Short Wall area
125 Dread
-
E2 5b 11
126 Bob Mambo Rabbits E1 5c 6
127 Pant E1 5b * 49
128 Panting
-
V0- 21
129 Crackle
-
V2 ** 17
130 Snap E1 5c 34
131 Short Crack VS 5a * 98
132 Grounded V2 5c 19
133 The Traverse
-
V2 6a 13
  Main Quarry
135 Imagination E4 6a *** 38
136 My Snorkel E6 6c ** 9
137 Straight Talk
-
E3 5c ** 74
138 Yukan II E7 6b *** 77
139 Yukan III (Direct Finish) E7 6c ** 4
140 Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c * 6
141 The Nesscliffe Monster E7 6c ** 4
142 Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
143 Rite Time
-
E7 6c ** 2
144 Local Start for Local Boys E6 6b * 1
145 Local Rite E8 6c *** 1
146 The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty) E6 6a *** 4
147 The Pit and the Pendulum E1 5b * 6
148 Full Sun
-
E6 6b **  
149 Sunburst E7 6c *** 1
150 Leaf Storm E6 6b ** 6
151 The Right Initials E5 6a * 1
152 The Devil's Chair E5 6b  
153 My Violin E4 5c 1
154 Crocodile Crack none 6b  
  Little Northumberland (The Terrace)
156 Half A Northumberland V0 5a * 24
157 Ceiling V3 * 7
158 Nesscliffe Witch Project V3 6a * 1
159 Little Wonderland V10 *** 7
160 Rigpa V9 6c ** 23
161 Northumberland Wonderland V7 *** 96
162 Welcome to the Wood f7C+ *** 3
163 Kyloe In V7 ** 31
164 Northumberland Little V9 ** 4
165 Pete's Route V6 6b 14
166 Right-Hand Route V4 6b ** 97
167 One Inch Pinch V7 4
168 Fluid Dynamics f7C+ *** 3
169 Little Northumberland V9 *** 29
  Cad's Leap
  Bow Wall
172 Subtilitas V9 6c ** 6
173 Subtilitas SS f8A *** 1
174 Bow Traverse V7 6b 15
  Hawk Wall
176 Hawkeye V7 18
177 Streethawk V5  
178 Buzz Meeks V4 6a 12
179 Moon Spinner V4 6a/b * 14
180 The Rampant Chopper V4 6a/b * 20
181 Kneel Hook Traverse V4  
182 Sabred Shield V4 1
183 Reunification V8+ * 1
184 Mega Tonne Trav V0+ 5a * 1
185 Tonky V2 6a * 1
186 Mincer V1 5b 3
187 Bow Reverse V7 * 1
188 Bueno
-
VE 2
189 Round About VE 5a 3

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