Climbs 180
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Buttress
2 Rubbish 1
-
VB 4b 3
3 Brownie
-
V0- 4c 3
4 boulevard
-
V0 5a 6
5 Rubbish as Well none 4a 4
  Sally's Garden
7 Badgers Crack f6A ** 4
8 BTB f6C * 5
9 Golden Sally f7A *** 2
10 Joesef Merrick's pet badger f7A ** 2
11 The Ousted Louse f5  
  The Far Buttress (The Alley)
13 Airline
-
V2 6a 4
14 Big Babe VB 6a ** 1
15 Hang Loose E3 6b * 4
16 Statins V5 * 1
17 Cholesterol V11 7a  
18 Cholesterol Traverse f7A * 5
19 Martians are Here V2 6a * 4
20 Twiggy
-
V1 26
21 Hum Vee VB 5b ** 5
22 Fatty Base none 3a 19
23 Batman HVS 5a ** 57
24 In The Court of the Sludgebaron E3 5c 4
25 Fin'ally Makinly's Groove E7 6c **  
26 Black Cat
-
V0 * 39
27 Stay Cool V8+ 6c *** 18
28 Snapper V2 * 28
29 Supa Dupa Fly V1 30
30 Sizmatic V2 ** 26
31 Free Bandits V4 * 16
32 Bodyshock V1 * 56
33 past cruising
-
V1 5b ** 86
34 Deep Slot Dyno V3 6a ** 13
35 Thread Hole V1 40
36 The Ramp
-
V1 41
37 Saboteur
-
V0- 48
38 Boosh V0 43
39 Cig Arhhh V0 23
40 Boston Shorts none 5a * 13
41 Wolf Mother
-
VB 5b ** 6
42 Manga V1 11
  Main Wall area
44 Short Crack
-
V1 3
45 Short Corner
-
V2 1
46 Dismissed E1 5c 2
47 Slapper E1 5b 15
48 Positive E2 5b 5
49 Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a * 17
50 A Line In The Sand E7 6c ** 1
51 Scrabble E5 6b 1
52 Cones and Current E5 6b ** 121
53 Jump E5 6b ** 32
54 Marlene in the Corner E5 6a ** 18
55 Marlene E4 6a *** 71
56 Marlene Direct E7 6c ** 19
57 Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b *** 103
58 Gathering Sun E7 6c *** 64
59 Bass Drum Heart E6 6b 2
60 The Nuance E5 6b ** 29
61 Nonsense
-
E5 6b ** 13
62 Cassini E8 6c *** 2
63 Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 6c *** 13
64 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 6c *** 45
65 Bird o'Clock E7 6b 3
66 Bird Brain E7 6b * 2
67 Tombola E7 6c ** 56
68 My Piano E8 6c *** 56
69 Play Me E8 7a *  
70 Red Square E2 5b *** 271
71 Time For Tea E7 7a * 11
72 Notional Trust E5 6a 11
73 Le Cirque E7 6c ** 3
74 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 7a *** 4
75 Bruce Factor E3 5c ** 27
76 Pot Noodle E3 6a * 7
77 Khanaan E6 6b 2
78 Ramblin' Days E2 5b ** 23
79 Open Air
-
E3 5b ** 25
80 Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c * 1
81 Inspiration E4 5c 6
82 Man of ideas E3 5b 2
83 Gathering Doubt * none ** 1
  Kynaston's Cave Area
85 Orange Disorder E5 6a 5
86 Cave Corner E2 5c *** 2
87 Berlin Wall Traverse V8 * 11
88 Sharp Slap V2 13
89 The Super Traverse 8a+  
90 The Highwayman's Escape V5 6b 27
91 Jug U'La
-
V0+ 5a ** 78
92 Dead Head V2 * 109
93 Sand Dish
-
V1 33
94 Meat Hooks V3 5c ** 65
95 Did Nick Tick? V5 6b ** 12
96 Planch V6 6b/c 16
97 Il y a Stazi E8 6c *** 4
98 Il y a V5 6b * 29
99 Stazi V5 6b * 13
100 Berlin Wall Eliminates V8+  
101 Berlin Wall E8 6c ** 15
102 Berlin start
-
V2 5c+ 54
103 Chipper Sitting V6 * 1
104 Berlin's Fallen V4 6a/b ** 94
105 CUN-Trol f7A+ *** 2
106 Chipper
-
V2 6a 29
107 Niche V0 5a * 12
108 Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 3
109 Snail Trail V3 6a 7
110 ST V5 6b * 26
111 Ugawa V0 5a * 14
112 Wing Wall none 4b 12
113 Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 16
114 Zion
-
V0 5b 21
115 Nine Volts none 5b * 10
116 Shropshire Slapper none 5b ** 11
117 Bonobo
-
V0 5b 33
118 Profit is Doom V2 6a * 4
119 Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 5b 20
120 Scuffle none 5b * 14
121 Images
-
V2 6a ** 14
122 Pock
-
V4 6b ** 14
123 Ripple
-
V1 5c * 31
124 Immaculato
-
V3 6a ** 16
125 Punto none 5a * 6
  Short Wall area
127 Dread
-
E2 5b 11
128 Bob Mambo Rabbits E1 5c 6
129 Pant E1 5b * 49
130 Panting
-
V0- 21
131 Crackle
-
V2 ** 17
132 Snap E1 5c 34
133 Short Crack VS 5a * 98
134 Grounded V2 5c 20
135 The Traverse
-
V2 6a 14
  Main Quarry
137 Imagination E4 6a *** 38
138 My Snorkel E6 6c ** 9
139 Straight Talk
-
E3 5c ** 75
140 Yukan II E7 6b *** 87
141 Yukan III (Direct Finish) E7 6c ** 4
142 Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c * 6
143 The Nesscliffe Monster E7 6c ** 4
144 Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
145 Rite Time
-
E7 6c ** 2
146 Local Start for Local Boys E6 6b * 1
147 Local Rite E8 6c *** 1
148 The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty) E6 6a *** 4
149 The Pit and the Pendulum E1 5b * 6
150 Full Sun
-
E6 6b **  
151 Sunburst E7 6c *** 1
152 Leaf Storm E6 6b ** 6
153 The Right Initials E5 6a * 1
154 The Devil's Chair E5 6b  
155 My Violin E4 5c 1
156 Crocodile Crack none 6b  
  Little Northumberland (The Terrace)
158 Half A Northumberland V0 5a * 24
159 Ceiling V3 * 7
160 Nesscliffe Witch Project V3 6a * 1
161 Little Wonderland V10 *** 7
162 Rigpa V9 6c ** 23
163 Northumberland Wonderland V7 *** 99
164 Welcome to the Wood f7C+ *** 3
165 Kyloe In V7 ** 31
166 Northumberland Little V9 ** 4
167 Pete's Route V6 6b 14
168 Right-Hand Route V4 6b ** 99
169 One Inch Pinch V7 4
170 Fluid Dynamics f7C+ *** 3
171 Little Northumberland V9 *** 31
  Cad's Leap
  Bow Wall
174 Subtilitas V9 6c ** 6
175 Subtilitas SS f8A *** 1
176 Bow Traverse V7 6b 15
  Hawk Wall
178 Hawkeye V7 18
179 Streethawk V5  
180 Buzz Meeks V4 6a 12
181 Moon Spinner V4 6a/b * 14
182 The Rampant Chopper V4 6a/b * 20
183 Kneel Hook Traverse V4  
184 Sabred Shield V4 1
185 Reunification V8+ * 1
186 Mega Tonne Trav V0+ 5a * 1
187 Tonky V2 6a * 1
188 Mincer V1 5b 3
189 Bow Reverse V7 * 1
190 Bueno
-
VE 2
191 Round About VE 5a 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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