Climbs 176
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Buttress
2 Rubbish 1
-
VB 4b 3
3 Brownie
-
V0- 4c 3
4 boulevard
-
V0 5a 6
5 Rubbish as Well none 4a 4
  Sally's Garden
7 Badgers Crack f6A ** 4
8 BTB f6C * 5
9 Golden Sally f7A *** 2
10 Joesef Merrick's pet badger f7A ** 2
11 The Ousted Louse f5  
  The Far Buttress (The Alley)
13 Airline
-
V2 6a 4
14 Big Babe VB 6a ** 1
15 Hang Loose E3 6b * 4
16 Statins V5 * 1
17 Cholesterol V11 7a  
18 Cholesterol Traverse f7A * 5
19 Martians are Here V2 6a * 4
20 Twiggy
-
V1 26
21 Hum Vee VB 5b ** 5
22 Fatty Base none 3a 19
23 Batman HVS 5a ** 56
24 In The Court of the Sludgebaron E3 5c 4
25 Fin'ally Makinly's Groove E7 6c **  
26 Black Cat
-
V0 * 39
27 Stay Cool V8+ 6c *** 18
28 Snapper V2 * 28
29 Supa Dupa Fly V1 30
30 Sizmatic V2 ** 26
31 Free Bandits V4 * 16
32 Bodyshock V1 * 56
33 past cruising
-
V1 5b ** 86
34 Deep Slot Dyno V3 6a ** 13
35 Thread Hole V1 40
36 The Ramp
-
V1 41
37 Saboteur
-
V0- 48
38 Boosh V0 43
39 Cig Arhhh V0 23
40 Boston Shorts none 5a * 13
41 Wolf Mother
-
VB 5b ** 6
42 Manga V1 11
  Main Wall area
44 Short Crack
-
V1 3
45 Short Corner
-
V2 1
46 Dismissed E1 5c 2
47 Slapper E1 5b 15
48 Positive E2 5b 5
49 Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a * 17
50 Scrabble E5 6b 1
51 Cones and Current E5 6b ** 117
52 Jump E5 6b ** 32
53 Marlene in the Corner E5 6a ** 18
54 Marlene E4 6a *** 71
55 Marlene Direct E7 6c ** 15
56 Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b *** 96
57 Gathering Sun E7 6c *** 48
58 Bass Drum Heart E6 6b 2
59 The Nuance E5 6b ** 24
60 Nonsense
-
E5 6b ** 11
61 Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 6c *** 12
62 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 6c *** 30
63 Bird Brain E7 6b * 2
64 Tombola E7 6c ** 54
65 My Piano E8 6c *** 39
66 Play Me E8 7a *  
67 Red Square E2 5b *** 260
68 Time For Tea E7 7a * 11
69 Notional Trust E5 6a 11
70 Le Cirque E7 6c ** 3
71 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 7a *** 4
72 Bruce Factor E3 5c ** 28
73 Pot Noodle E3 6a * 7
74 Khanaan E6 6b 2
75 Ramblin' Days E2 5b ** 23
76 Open Air
-
E3 5b ** 25
77 Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c * 1
78 Inspiration E4 5c 6
79 Man of ideas E3 5b 2
  Kynaston's Cave Area
81 Orange Disorder E5 6a 5
82 Cave Corner E2 5c *** 2
83 Berlin Wall Traverse V8 * 11
84 Sharp Slap V2 13
85 The Super Traverse 8a+  
86 The Highwayman's Escape V5 6b 26
87 Jug U'La
-
V0+ 5a ** 74
88 Dead Head V2 * 105
89 Sand Dish
-
V1 32
90 Meat Hooks V3 5c ** 62
91 Did Nick Tick? V5 6b ** 12
92 Planch V6 6b/c 16
93 Il y a Stazi E8 6c *** 4
94 Il y a V5 6b * 28
95 Stazi V5 6b * 13
96 Berlin Wall Eliminates V8+  
97 Berlin Wall E8 6c ** 15
98 Berlin start
-
V2 5c+ 52
99 Chipper Sitting V6 * 1
100 Berlin's Fallen V4 6a/b ** 91
101 CUN-Trol f7A+ *** 2
102 Chipper
-
V2 6a 27
103 Niche V0 5a * 12
104 Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 3
105 Snail Trail V3 6a 7
106 ST V5 6b * 26
107 Ugawa V0 5a * 14
108 Wing Wall none 4b 12
109 Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 16
110 Zion
-
V0 5b 21
111 Nine Volts none 5b * 10
112 Shropshire Slapper none 5b ** 11
113 Bonobo
-
V0 5b 33
114 Profit is Doom V2 6a * 4
115 Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 5b 20
116 Scuffle none 5b * 13
117 Images
-
V2 6a ** 14
118 Pock
-
V4 6b ** 13
119 Ripple
-
V1 5c * 30
120 Immaculato
-
V3 6a ** 15
121 Punto none 5a * 6
  Short Wall area
123 Dread
-
E2 5b 11
124 Bob Mambo Rabbits E1 5c 6
125 Pant E1 5b * 47
126 Panting
-
V0- 21
127 Crackle
-
V2 ** 17
128 Snap E1 5c 32
129 Short Crack VS 5a * 98
130 Grounded V2 5c 19
131 The Traverse
-
V2 6a 12
  Main Quarry
133 Imagination E4 6a *** 38
134 My Snorkel E6 6c ** 9
135 Straight Talk
-
E3 5c ** 74
136 Yukan II E7 6b *** 76
137 Yukan III (Direct Finish) E7 6c ** 4
138 Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c * 6
139 The Nesscliffe Monster E7 6c ** 3
140 Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
141 Rite Time
-
E7 6c ** 2
142 Local Start for Local Boys E6 6b * 1
143 Local Rite E8 6c *** 1
144 The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty) E6 6a *** 4
145 The Pit and the Pendulum E1 5b * 6
146 Full Sun
-
E6 6b **  
147 Sunburst E7 6c *** 1
148 Leaf Storm E6 6b ** 6
149 The Right Initials E5 6a * 1
150 The Devil's Chair E5 6b  
151 My Violin E4 5c 1
152 Crocodile Crack none 6b  
  Little Northumberland (The Terrace)
154 Half A Northumberland V0 5a * 23
155 Ceiling V3 * 7
156 Nesscliffe Witch Project V3 6a * 1
157 Little Wonderland V10 *** 7
158 Rigpa V9 6c ** 23
159 Northumberland Wonderland V7 *** 82
160 Welcome to the Wood f7C+ *** 3
161 Kyloe In V7 ** 27
162 Northumberland Little V9 ** 4
163 Pete's Route V6 6b 13
164 Right-Hand Route V4 6b ** 96
165 One Inch Pinch V7 3
166 Fluid Dynamics f7C+ *** 3
167 Little Northumberland V9 *** 26
  Cad's Leap
  Bow Wall
170 Subtilitas V9 6c ** 5
171 Subtilitas SS f8A *** 1
172 Bow Traverse V7 6b 15
  Hawk Wall
174 Hawkeye V7 18
175 Streethawk V5  
176 Buzz Meeks V4 6a 12
177 Moon Spinner V4 6a/b * 14
178 The Rampant Chopper V4 6a/b * 20
179 Kneel Hook Traverse V4  
180 Sabred Shield V4 1
181 Reunification V8+ * 1
182 Mega Tonne Trav V0+ 5a * 1
183 Tonky V2 6a * 1
184 Mincer V1 5b 3
185 Bow Reverse V7 * 1
186 Bueno *
-
VE 5b* 2
187 Round About * VE 5a 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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