Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 317m a.s.l
Faces NE

Trepidation FFA? © Paul Ha

Crag features

A small and sheltered quarry which has proved popular with local climbers in recent years.Routes reach a maximum length of 20m on Great Buttress.The Sundance Wall area provides a concentration of the better routes with Crystal Crack VS, Sundance Wall HVS, Concave Wall E1 and Indecent Exposure E2 recommended. Other worthwhile routes include Forest Wall HVS, Fallen Birdman E1 and Trepidation E2.

Approach notes

The quarry is located some 6.5km to the NW of Oswestry and about 1km north of the catchily named village Rhydycroseau. Known as Carreg y Big on the Ordnance Survey, once in the village follow the deadend road marked Tynydrain passed the first house on the left and at the bend in the road go through the field gate on the left and down a track a little way. The climbs are in the woods to your right as you enter the quarry. The owners seem very relaxed about climbing there even though you have to go through their gate and it seems to be on their land.

At first glance this was a disappointing venue. However on closer examination the routes are technical and sustained and I would go back. I have a feeling that due to the increasing tree cover and lack of use, this quarry will become less inviting as the years go by. However at the moment, if you're looking for a shady place to climb out of the sun, this a good option. The topouts are good with decent sized trees to belay from. Also the rock is good quality with almost no loose stuff even near the top. There's even a good pub at Selattyn, just up the road where the landlord was quite happy for us to carry on drinking whilst he took his dog out for a walk. We had a brief word with the owners who live in the house at the entrane to the quarry, and they seem quite happy for climbers to be there and even suggested a decent place to get a cup of tea afterwards.
Andrew Primrose - 21/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cave Area
2 Cave Arete
D 8
3 cave slab
HVS 5a 4
4 Cave Wall VS 4c 1
  Forest Wall
6 Forest Wall Arete
VD 9
7 Carreg y Byg Kid E2 5b 2
8 Physical Leverage
E2 5c ** 1
9 Forest Wall
HVS 5b ** 7
Climb name Grade
10 Rowan Tree route HS 4b 6
11 Fossil Crack
VS 4c * 12
12 Head Banger
VS 4c 6
  Great Buttress
14 Fallen Birdman
E1 5b * 3
15 Trepidation
E2 5c ** 1
  Sundance Wall
17 crystal crack VS 4b ** 20
18 scoop route
HVS 5a * 10
Climb name Grade
19 sundance wall
HVS 5a ** 16
20 concave wall E1 5c ** 6
21 Indecent Exposure
E2 5c ** 5
22 Intermediate ArĂȘte
VD 5
23 Forrest Wall Corner
VD 6
24 Dandelion groove
HS 6
25 Ticket To Ride
VS 4c 1
26 Freckled Hope
VS 5a 1
27 Mog *
E1 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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