Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 317m a.s.l
Faces NE

Trepidation FFA? © Paul Ha

Crag features

A small and sheltered quarry which has proved popular with local climbers in recent years.Routes reach a maximum length of 20m on Great Buttress.The Sundance Wall area provides a concentration of the better routes with Crystal Crack VS, Sundance Wall HVS, Concave Wall E1 and Indecent Exposure E2 recommended. Other worthwhile routes include Forest Wall HVS, Fallen Birdman E1 and Trepidation E2.

Approach notes

The quarry is located some 6.5km to the NW of Oswestry and about 1km north of the catchily named village Rhydycroseau. Known as Carreg y Big on the Ordnance Survey, once in the village follow the deadend road marked Tynydrain passed the first house on the left and at the bend in the road go through the field gate on the left and down a track a little way. The climbs are in the woods to your right as you enter the quarry. The owners seem very relaxed about climbing there even though you have to go through their gate and it seems to be on their land.

At first glance this was a disappointing venue. However on closer examination the routes are technical and sustained and I would go back. I have a feeling that due to the increasing tree cover and lack of use, this quarry will become less inviting as the years go by. However at the moment, if you're looking for a shady place to climb out of the sun, this a good option. The topouts are good with decent sized trees to belay from. Also the rock is good quality with almost no loose stuff even near the top. There's even a good pub at Selattyn, just up the road where the landlord was quite happy for us to carry on drinking whilst he took his dog out for a walk. We had a brief word with the owners who live in the house at the entrane to the quarry, and they seem quite happy for climbers to be there and even suggested a decent place to get a cup of tea afterwards.
Andrew Primrose - 21/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cave Area 
2Cave Arete
D 8
3cave slab
HVS 5a 4
4Cave WallVS 4c 1
 Forest Wall 
6Forest Wall Arete
VD 9
7Carreg y Byg KidE2 5b 2
8Physical Leverage
E2 5c **1
9Forest Wall
HVS 5b **6
10Rowan Tree routeHS 4b 5
11Fossil Crack
VS 4c *11
12Head Banger
VS 4c 6
 Great Buttress 
14Fallen Birdman
E1 5b *3
E2 5c **1
 Sundance Wall 
17crystal crackVS 4b **20
18scoop route
HVS 5a *10
19sundance wall
HVS 5a **15
20concave wallE1 5c **6
21Indecent Exposure
E2 5c **5
22Intermediate ArĂȘte
VD 5
23Forrest Wall Corner
VD 6
24Dandelion groove
HS 6
25Ticket To Ride
VS 4c 1
26Freckled Hope
VS 5a 1
27Mog *
E1 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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