Climbs 11
Rocktype Chalk
Altitude 17m a.s.l
Faces S

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Monster Crack © Tom Last

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. Requires ice screws, pegs, large nuts (anything less than 7/8 is useless) BIG hexes, warthogs, a healthy disregard for sanity and wooden stakes for protection. An adze type axe is very useful as well, especially on steep mixed ground. Climbing here is notoriously difficult and dangerous. Even the HVS routes feel like E3! Do not attempt if a) you value your life, b) you are not happy soloing 5b and c) you think that chalk is about as inherently stable as soft water ice when the sun has been on it for a couple of hours. Routes here include the remarkable Monster Crack (E5/6 6b) previously graded as HXS with ***! I would advise seeking the advice of a local before beginning, and please don't climb here in the summer when the risk of falling rock, people or both is too high.

Approach notes

Tidal if walking to base of climbs, with no easy exit.

Tell the coastguard before doing any climbing here - 01323 20634.

The base of the cliffs is best reached by descending the grass slopes E (L when looking to sea) of the "Beachy Head Inn" and then walking along the beach. Once familiar with the layout, an abseil from a fencepost directly above the a large loose chimney (Vaginoff HVS)in front of the lighthouse will suffice.

Restricted Access

Adventure climbing using rock climbing techniques (rarely visited by climbers) and on Seven Sisters and the nearby Seaford Head using ice techniques. The area is very popular with tourists and walkers and it is essential that anyone contemplating climbing at Beachy Head is suitably experienced. The cliffs have been subject to two major rockfalls since the last guidebook: the first in the winter of 1998/99 removed Sunday Sport and the finish of The Ghost to the west of the lighthouse. The second rockfall in early 2001 removed Etheldreda’s Pinnacle and Crowley’s Crack to the east of Beachy Head. There are now only four climbs left in more or less their original form! Due to its popularity for general recreation and the fact that Beachy Head is a SSSI, the access situation remains sensitive. Please observe the following points carefully: - The coastguards at the Dover Maritime Rescue Co-ordinating Centre (MRCC), should be phoned on (01304) 210008 before and after climbing. - Avoid damaging the cliff edge if placing anchor stakes. Do not leave anchors or ropes in place longer than necessary, and do not leave unattended ropes hanging over the cliff (these can be tampered or played with by non-climbers).

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Sea-birds and peregrine nest at Beachy Head. Between 1st Feb-30th Jul, climbers should contact the Downland Ranger on (01323) 415267 for details of any access restrictions.

Keeping a close eye on all routes between Brighton (Saltdean) and Seaford (Birling Gap, pushing Beachy Head where I can) If you're planning on climbing down here and fancy a locals' eye view, email me a day or so before and I'll see if I can't give you some beta!
timby - 29/Oct/06
Most of the routes in the latest guide have fallen down. The word is only 4 of them remain, of which two have rockfall damage to various pitches. Still very loose and serious, then.
Sandman - 26/Dec/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Monster crack
-
E4 5c 2
Climb name Grade
2 Passion Flake
-
E4 5c ** 1

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