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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 16
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 196m a.s.l
Faces S

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Woodland Granite - Luckey Tor © Alex the Alex

Crag features

Feels big - appearing almost 100ft in height but just 40ft. "It feels quite big, well worth carrying gear. It really is a beautiful spot,
a superb place for a picnic, and the "Life -affirming walk through deciduous woodland" from Dartmeet is everything that the guide claims it to be. The Eyrie (E2 5c) is well worth its two stars." - Mark Kemball. Starred climbs at S, VS and HVS too.


Owls nesting around the songline/bloodshot area (7th May 2018) please avoid until the chicks have fledged.

Approach notes

Quickest approach from the A384 - park (get permission) at the Rowbrook farm; walk down contours to crag.
Alternatively and nicer walk - park at Dartmeet and walk S along the E bank of the river.

There is an amazingly hard climb: SWAMPIES', first attempted by a few of the lads from GREAT HORWOOD. Follow the main face left, turn 90-degrees left and scramble up the soiley bank. Opposite the massive boulder there is a cave (about 12ft off the ground), which is 3ft deep, 5.5ft tall, 9ft wide. MY CHALLENGE TO YOU! Climb using only the crack forming the left-hand side of the cave, use an arm jam to help pull yourself up the inside of the crack and into the cave. If you can do that! crawl right allong the cave and continue up the right hand crack, to the top. This is a very hard exciting climb, welldone if you can do it. P.S. Watch out for the gnats. P.P.S. Keep your packed lunch away from the sheep, ponies, deer and naturalists!
"Swamp Thing" - 16/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Main Gully D 41
2 Rocking Block E1 5b 12
3 Posthumous Teacakes VS 4c 16
4 Ivy Wall VS 4c 100
5 The Eyrie E2 5c ** 40
6 Tough Luck E3 5c 2
Climb name Grade
7 Eagle's Nest S ** 225
8 Original Route S 149
9 Songline HVS 5a 44
10 Bloodshot HVS 5b 9
11 Black Jam Crack VS 4c * 143
12 Black Jam Arete HVS 5a * 49
Climb name Grade
13 Right Hand Chimney D 66
14 Marmalade Wall E4 6a *  
15 Windy Ceiling
E1 5c 2
16 Rendezvous with Windy
E3 6a *  

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