Climbs 49
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 279m a.s.l
Faces SW

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One more try before the rain sets in. © Tom F Harding

Crag features

aka Hope Mountain.
A local sandstone bouldering venue, the crag looks like it was a test quarry and is around 10-15 foot high in places. Its main feature is an impressive over hanging roof in the area directly below the trig point.

Several smaller areas can be found as the crag runs intermittently NW for about 150 yds.

A further larger, although disappointing area, can be found a short walk NNW cut into the left side of the far hill.

There are good landings on most problems and is often sheltered from the worst of the wind.

Many problems remain damp in the winter and the rock can be friable when wet, please treat it with care and respect.

Approach notes

To get there go along the mold-wrexham road from mold direction, the road will widen to a short stretch of dual carriage way and just as it narrows again there is a sign for 'Horeb' on the opposite (right) side of the road going uphill up a small narrow lane follow that to the top of the hill, you will then come across the entrance to the carpark, a short walk up a gravelled path brings you to the crag.

The car park shuts at 6 or 9pm depending on the season, but alternative parking for a few vehicles can be found on the roadside.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

I've recently had a few reports of broken or altered holds. Please, please can everyone treat this venue with care and respect. in particular, do not climb on it when wet or damp as this rock is very friable in that condition. Cheers
Mark Riley - 30/Sep/13
There is alot of glass and rubbish under the roof and parts of the the rock under the roof on the cave traverse have broken off due to a Big chav fire.
jack Humphreys - 06/Dec/12
It's been done a long time ago Jack. I'm pretty sure there are no remaining unclimbed lines here apart from the Roof Direct.
Luke Owens - 16/Jul/12
there is a travers under the main overhanging feature. treverse from sit start on far right under and across to the left of the overhang, then after the traverse you can link this with the roof and go up the left side of the roof. has anyone done this route ?
jack Humphreys - 01/Jul/12
Went today, Great bunch of problems. Can anyone recommend any other good problems around the Wrexham area other than Trevor Rocks?
Luke Owens - 28/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Section
2 Lower Rib V0+ 45
3 Lower Arete Left Hand Wall V2 * 12
4 Lower Traverse V3 12
5 Lower Arete LH V5 13
6 Lower Arete V6 24
7 Lower Eliminate V3 28
8 Lower Eliminate Eliminate f4 4
9 Lower Groove V0 52
10 Lower Crack V0 44
11 Kelly V3 22
12 Kelly's Left Arete V1 3
13 Kelly's Top Traverse V0 4
  Middle Section
15 Middle Undercut V7 9
16 Middle Wall Left V4 4
17 Middle Corner V2 26
18 Middle Direct (Pepperami) V3 24
Climb name Grade
19 Middle Traverse V4 3
20 Middle Groove V0 47
  Roof section
22 Slab Arete V0- 68
23 Traverse under main roof V2 22
24 Slab central V0- 17
25 Roof Corner V0- 19
26 Mosshart V6 5
27 Roof LH V5 14
28 Roof Central V6 4
29 Roof Rib V5 1
30 Roof Flake V2 52
31 Roof Slope Eliminate V3 7
32 Slope Traverse aka Dave's Traverse/BBQ Lip V5 13
33 Slope Traverse SDS V6 9
34 Slope Traverse - Grotto Up Start V7 1
35 Live in Hope (The Big Link) V8+ 3
36 Passage to Hope V9 2
Climb name Grade
37 Grotto up V5 29
38 Grotto Up Campus Eliminate V5 1
  The Barrel
40 Barrel Arete LH V4 24
41 Barrel Arete LH and Barrel Traverse f6B+ 1
42 Barrel Traverse V3 23
43 Barrel Traverse low V5 9
44 Barrel Up V3 46
  Short Wall
46 The Crack V0 70
47 Short Wall Left V4 12
48 Short Wall Eliminate V6 9
49 Short Wall V3 50
50 Short Wall Low Traverse f4 7
51 Double dyno V4 5
52 Whistle groove f3+ 8
53 Clean As A Whistle V2 19
54 Whistle arete f3 11

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