Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Franco Cookson Soloing The Nightwatch © Franco Cookson OLD

Crag features

Allegedly formed by a huge landslip early in the 18th century. Great views over the Vale of York. Can be loose on both a small and a large scale. Many routes depend upon pegs that are no longer in place. The crag has a big feel. Recommended routes: The Night Watch (VS 4b, one of the best routes in Yorkshire), Central Crack (HVS), Countdown Direct (HVS), Frigg (HS), Odin (HS).

Approach notes

From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank walk N along the scarp edge until the scrubland is left. The crag is now down to the L. For the main area, descend with care a steep grassy gully (abseil rope recommended). You can walk past the crag and drop down to walk back, but this approach is impractical during nettle season!

Guidebooks

Good free topo here courtesy of climbonline.co.uk: http://www.climbonline.co.u/PDFs/Whitestone%20Cliffe.pdf
snoop6060 - 02/Nov/11
The best crag i've ever been to in the UK. Unadulterated excitement and fear. Adventurous to put it mildly. The classics make for a pleasant weekend- the nightw*tch to name but one and the left hand side of the crag will give you an experience you'll never forget. (if you survive) there are still some gems to free climb, the traverse being only one- the only 1000ft route in the moors! enjoy!
GIPFEL - 10/Feb/09
Nightwatch & Central Crack are the justifiably popular routes: they are comparatively safe and enjoyable. Once climbed Nightwatch in dense mist - could have been in the Dolomites. Also try Odin & Frigg: nice climbing; plenty of gear. For a Freudian, Back-to-the-womb experience go for Clutcher [VS 4C]: no gear for 30ft. Scary to find that, as you thrutch up the dark cleft, you can see daylight at the opposite end of the 'womb', about 20ft away on your right - you are thrusting outwards on a semi-detached wall which may, one day, detach itself from the main crag. The rounded boulders embedded in the limestone give an extra frissance to the whole Freudian thing! Caress & enjoy.
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Want an amazing Cliff, so many different ways to die. must be the best training for rock climbing in the alps. OK the holds can break and can you can drop the odd rock on your belayer, but some amazing climbs, and you can feel the history as some routes have only had a few repeats since been put up.
IanJackson - 05/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Masochist
-
S 4a 5
2 Conflict VS 4c 2
3 Couldn't Again
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Throwback
-
VS 4c 2
5 Pygmalion
-
HS 4b 3
6 Wailing Wall HVS 5a 1
7 Last Post
-
VS 4c ** 16
8 Clutcher
-
VS 4c * 11
9 Blitzkrieg
-
E2 5c ** 5
10 Espeekay E1 5b ** 3
11 Black Mamba E2 5b ** 3
12 The Possum VS 4c 1
13 Ying and Yang
-
HVS 5a ** 4
14 Sassenach
-
HVS 5a 1
15 Gamin HS 4a * 3
16 Pillar of Winds
-
HVS 5b 1
17 Yangtze HS 4b 1
18 Thyrus S 4a * 5
19 The Leash VS 4c ** 5
20 Double Time
-
VS 4b 1
21 Garbage Groove
-
D 10
22 The Trembler
-
VS 4c 1
23 Garth's Causeway
-
VD 2
24 The Nocker
-
VS 5a 1
25 Odin
-
VS 4b ** 56
26 Odin Direct HVS 5a 1
27 Frigg
-
HS 4b ** 69
28 Mars Bar VS 5a 2
29 Pie & Pea Pillar
-
HVS 5a 2
30 Gauche VD * 64
31 Tout Droit VS 4c 1
32 The Skab HVS 5b * 2
33 The Skab Direct Finish
-
E1 5b * 5
34 The Claw E4 5c * 2
35 Countdown HVS 5a 6
36 Countdown Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 45
37 Central Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 52
38 The Night Watch VS 4b *** 335
39 The Night Watch - Direct Finish E5 6b  
40 Bad Concept HVS 5b  
41 Jurassic Scarp E3 5b ** 3
42 Backache Crack
-
VS 4b 4
43 Absinthe
-
HS 4b 4
44 Domino
-
VS 4c 10
45 One Half Shift
-
VS 4c 4
46 Hobbledehoy
-
S 4a 39
47 Ace of Hearts
-
VD 5
48 I seem to have left an important part of my brain somewhere... E3 5b 1
49 Confusion
-
S 4a 9
50 Finesse
-
S 4a 3
51 Humdrum
-
VD 5
52 Salmon Valley Pinnacle HVS 4c * 3
53 Penumbra
-
D 4
54 Oedipus Dogger Your Mother VS 4c 2
55 Black Buffalo S 4a 1
56 The Mule S 4a 1
57 Manky EB S 4a 2
58 Chameleon XS 6a/b *** 8

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