Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Franco Cookson Soloing The Nightwatch © Franco Cookson OLD

Crag features

Allegedly formed by a huge landslip early in the 18th century. Great views over the Vale of York. Can be loose on both a small and a large scale. Many routes depend upon pegs that are no longer in place. The crag has a big feel. Recommended routes: The Night Watch (VS 4b, one of the best routes in Yorkshire), Central Crack (HVS), Countdown Direct (HVS), Frigg (HS), Odin (HS).

Approach notes

From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank walk N along the scarp edge until the scrubland is left. The crag is now down to the L. For the main area, descend with care a steep grassy gully (abseil rope recommended). You can walk past the crag and drop down to walk back, but this approach is impractical during nettle season!


Good free topo here courtesy of
snoop6060 - 02/Nov/11
The best crag i've ever been to in the UK. Unadulterated excitement and fear. Adventurous to put it mildly. The classics make for a pleasant weekend- the nightw*tch to name but one and the left hand side of the crag will give you an experience you'll never forget. (if you survive) there are still some gems to free climb, the traverse being only one- the only 1000ft route in the moors! enjoy!
GIPFEL - 10/Feb/09
Nightwatch & Central Crack are the justifiably popular routes: they are comparatively safe and enjoyable. Once climbed Nightwatch in dense mist - could have been in the Dolomites. Also try Odin & Frigg: nice climbing; plenty of gear. For a Freudian, Back-to-the-womb experience go for Clutcher [VS 4C]: no gear for 30ft. Scary to find that, as you thrutch up the dark cleft, you can see daylight at the opposite end of the 'womb', about 20ft away on your right - you are thrusting outwards on a semi-detached wall which may, one day, detach itself from the main crag. The rounded boulders embedded in the limestone give an extra frissance to the whole Freudian thing! Caress & enjoy.
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Want an amazing Cliff, so many different ways to die. must be the best training for rock climbing in the alps. OK the holds can break and can you can drop the odd rock on your belayer, but some amazing climbs, and you can feel the history as some routes have only had a few repeats since been put up.
IanJackson - 05/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
S 4a 5
2ConflictVS 4c 2
3Couldn't Again
HVS 5a 1
VS 4c 2
HS 4b 3
6Wailing WallHVS 5a 1
7Last Post
VS 4c **20
VS 4c *9
E2 5c **5
10EspeekayE1 5b **3
11Black MambaE2 5b **3
12The PossumVS 4c 1
13Ying and Yang
HVS 5a **4
HVS 5a 1
15GaminHS 4a *3
16Pillar of Winds
HVS 5b 1
17YangtzeHS 4b 1
18ThyrusS 4a *5
19The LeashVS 4c **5
20Double Time
VS 4b 1
21Garbage Groove
D 10
22The Trembler
VS 4c 1
23Garth's Causeway
VD 2
24The Nocker
VS 5a 1
VS 4b **44
26Odin DirectHVS 5a 1
HS 4b **76
28Mars BarVS 5a 2
29Pie & Pea Pillar
HVS 5a 2
30GaucheVD *62
31The SkabHVS 5b *1
32The Skab Direct Finish
E1 5b *4
33The ClawE4 5c *2
34CountdownHVS 5a 6
35Countdown Direct
HVS 5a **42
36Central Crack
HVS 5a **51
37The Night WatchVS 4b ***307
38The Night Watch - Direct FinishE5 6b  
39Bad ConceptHVS 5b  
40Jurassic ScarpE3 5b **3
41Backache Crack
VS 4b 4
HS 4b 4
VS 4c 10
44One Half Shift
VS 4c 3
S 4a 35
46Ace of Hearts
VD 4
47I seem to have left an important part of my brain somewhere...E3 5b 1
S 4a 9
S 4a 3
VD 5
51Salmon Valley PinnacleHVS 4c *3
D 4
53Oedipus Dogger Your MotherVS 4c 2
54Black BuffaloS 4a 1
55The MuleS 4a 1
56Manky EBS 4a 2
57ChameleonXS 6a/b ***8

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