Climbs 14
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 288m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

A big quarry above the village of Ynyshir on the west side of the valley.The crag offers a mixture of groove's arete's and walls,like all new sandstone crags there is some superficial loose rock which will reduce with traffic.The crag is a morning sun trap and apart from the three routes on the far right-hand side which seep after prolonged rain,the rest tends to stay dry.

Approach notes

Follow the A4233 for a mile out of Porth passing the Station pub on the right,turn sharp left 100 metres past the pub,then a sharp right into Graig rd, park considerately at the gap half way along the road.

Walk through the gap between the houses,bear left then back right to reach the crag. approx 5mins.

Peregrines are presently nesting and the Countryside Council for Wales has imposed a climbing ban until the end of July. They will police the situation and updates will occur if any changes happen. (Info from BMC Rep SE Wales. Access link below will be added soon.) The area of rock between Dan'ds-Inferno and Sweet whistleing geronimo is banned from any development.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Steely Dan 7b 2
2 Rhod above the bridge 6b 1
3 Road Whore 7a * 2
4 Banjo versus the pigeon 6b *  
5 Catch the Pigeon 6b * 11
6 Tricky Dickie Takes a Sickie 7b+ 1
7 The Corner HVS  
8 Dan'ds-Inferno 6b ** 8
9 Sweet Whistling Geronimo 7a ** 9
10 Dixienormous 7a+ * 4
11 Dan dix 6a * 12
12 Whistle Dixie 7a+ 4
13 Speechless 6c 7
14 Pre Nups 6b+ 7

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