UKC

Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces NW

Nasal Butress on a Perfect Spring Day © Kaiser999

Crag features

Lots of middle grade routes on classic mountain grit in a superbly exposed setting. Best routes include Central Tower (VD), Answer Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Mammoth Slab (VS 4c) and Fedie's Folly (E1 5b). THE route of the crag is undoubtedly The Hanging Crack, at E2 5b a well-protected but severe test of jamming skills, stength and stamina. Go to it!

Approach notes

From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here below the large Dovestone's Quarries to the edge in about 30 min. Named Ashway Rocks on the Peak District Touring Map.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
Very green the day after rain in August. Shame as it made several of the routes I fancied quite slimy. The steep last 10 mins certainly warms you up and would recommend leaving until the evening. Answer Crack and Nasal Buttress were good and will try Mammoth Buttress when not Kermit-like!
eldre070 - 26/Aug/13
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out.
bobpilgrem - 23/May/12
Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing!
flapjack_franky - 06/Sep/10
Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this.
RankAmateur - 22/Jun/09
This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself. Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing. As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit. For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence!
Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05
Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great! The walk in isn't that bad really.
Steff - 05/Sep/04
Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush. An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones.
Fiend - 02/Sep/04
Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge.
Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03
This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent.
Rob - 25/Mar/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Left Hand Section
2 Chockstone Gully
-
I/II 1
3 Route 1 VS 4b 33
4 Grotto VD 1
5 Route II HS 4b * 31
6 Slab and Saddle D 52
7 Stirrup S 4a * 38
8 Double Overhangs HVS 5b 5
9 Cooper's Crack S 4b ** 100
10 'C' Climb D 36
11 Sea Route VS 4c * 14
12 Green Crack VD 4
13 Wrinkled Buttress VD * 109
14 Wrinkled Wall HVD 8
15 Curving Crack VD 16
16 Danegeld E1 5b * 18
17 The Tax Collector E2 5c 4
18 Nobbly Wall HS 4b * 60
19 The Direct Route VD 67
20 The Director's Route HVD 30
21 The Moocher VS 4b 13
22 Eyebrow S 4a * 14
23 Nasal Buttress HS 4b *** 302
24 Nasal Buttress Right Hand VS 4c ** 17
25 Eight Hours! E1 5a * 3
26 The Changeling HS 4b 13
27 Crack and Chimney M * 39
28 Palpitation E1 5a * 6
29 Mother's Pride E1 5b 1
30 Capstone Chimney M * 40
31 Splintered Buttress D 11
  The Central Section
33 Kitten Cracks S 4b 2
34 Square Chimney D 22
35 Central Tower VD ** 193
36 Tower Arete VS 4c * 35
37 Left Embrasure VS 4b ** 86
Climb name Grade
38 Right Embrasure VS 4c * 12
39 Matchstick Crack S 4a * 63
40 Maggie HVS 5a ** 37
41 Grim Wall VS 5a 12
42 Peat Climb VD 6
43 Noddy's Wall VS 4b * 87
44 Swan Crack HVD * 108
45 Swan Down VS 4c 4
  June Wall Area
47 Gnomes' Wall VS 4c 2
48 Rib and Wall S 4a * 32
49 Mammoth Slab HVS 5a ** 47
50 Ferdie's Folly E1 5b * 12
51 Dust Storm E2 5b * 2
52 'K' Climb VS 4b 3
53 Kaytoo VS 4c * 6
54 Asinine HVS 6a * 2
55 June Climb D * 48
56 Austin Maxi E2 5c 6
57 June Wall VS 5a * 16
58 June Ridge S 4a * 17
59 Dogsbody
-
E2 5c 1
  Answer Crack Area
61 Rubber-faced Arete VS 4c 1
62 Rubber-faced Wall VD 6
63 December Arete HVS 5b * 8
64 Layback Crack HS 4b *** 217
65 Friction Addiction E1 5c ** 18
66 Slipoff Slab VS 4c * 57
67 Double Time Crack HVD 2
68 Peabodies' Dilemma
-
VD 2
69 Left Chimney VD 7
70 Right Chimney VD * 6
71 'Owd on Arete HS 4b * 22
72 Answer Crack HVD *** 338
73 Question Time E2 5c * 6
74 Question Mark S 4a ** 133
Climb name Grade
75 Full Stop E1 5a * 16
76 Third Triplet D * 19
77 Yellow Crack HVS 5c * 24
78 Second Triplet D 8
79 Loose End VS 5a * 41
80 First Triplet S 4a * 57
  Hanging Crack Buttress
82 Scarface VS 4c 5
83 Tower Ridge VD * 69
84 Silly Arete S 4a 8
85 The Jester S 4a * 20
86 Spurt of Spurts E2 5b *  
87 Hymen the Tactless E5 6c **  
88 Hanging Crack E2 5b *** 44
89 King Tut's Wah Wah Hut E5 6b ** 1
90 The Gibbet E3 5c * 2
91 The Catwalk HS 3c ** 13
92 Strappado E4 6b *  
93 Blank Crack S 4b  
94 Long Ridge VD 8
95 Jam and Jug S 4b 1
  The Isolated Buttress
97 Toadstool Rib HVS 5a  
  Pullman's Buttress
99 Grey Chimney
-
HVD 1
100 Pullman Chimney
-
VD 1
101 Pullman Overhang
-
HVS 5b  
102 Pullman Crack
-
VD 1
  Platform Buttress
104 Curving Arete
-
HVS 4c * 3
105 Platform Route One
-
HVS 5a  
106 Platform Route Two
-
VS 4c  
  Pebble Buttress
108 The Leaf
-
HVD * 2
109 The Slot
-
HS 4b 1
110 The Flake
-
M 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mrphilipoldham