Lots of middle grade routes on classic mountain grit in a superbly exposed setting. Best routes include Central Tower (VD), Answer Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Mammoth Slab (VS 4c) and Fedie's Folly (E1 5b). THE route of the crag is undoubtedly The Hanging Crack, at E2 5b a well-protected but severe test of jamming skills, stength and stamina. Go to it!
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here below the large Dovestone's Quarries to the edge in about 30 min. Named Ashway Rocks on the Peak District Touring Map.
Very green the day after rain in August. Shame as it made several of the routes I fancied quite slimy. The steep last 10 mins certainly warms you up and would recommend leaving until the evening. Answer Crack and Nasal Buttress were good and will try Mammoth Buttress when not Kermit-like! eldre070 - 26/Aug/13
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out. bobpilgrem - 23/May/12
Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing! flapjack_franky - 06/Sep/10
Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this. RankAmateur - 22/Jun/09
This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself.
Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing.
As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit.
For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence! Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05
Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great!
The walk in isn't that bad really. Steff - 05/Sep/04
Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush.
An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones. Fiend - 02/Sep/04
Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge. Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03
This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent. Rob - 25/Mar/02