Climbs 187
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rake's Buttress
2 Offspring f6A 15
3 Aunties VS 5a 113
4 Rake's Progress D 280
5 Uncle's VS 4c * 224
6 Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 125
7 Straight and Narrow VD 337
8 Moderator
-
M 108
9 Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 58
10 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 34
11 Easy Stages
-
M 113
  Oriel Wall
13 Left Side Groove
-
S 39
14 Left Side
-
S 4a 108
15 The Mounting Block
-
HD 122
16 The Nutcrackers
-
D 118
17 The Nutcrackers Wall HVD 60
18 Gentle Slab M 118
19 Spiral Stairs
-
VD 92
20 Spiral Stairs Left Hand D 18
  Parson's Nose Buttress
22 Explode f6A+ 7
23 Parson's Chimney M 174
24 Hand Jive VS 5b 159
25 Left Edge f5 9
26 Jiver's Wall VS 4c * 302
27 Jivers Sit Start f5+ 2
28 Jiver's Wall Right Arete VS 5a 33
29 Jivers Wall Traverse f6B+ * 2
30 Bop Route S 4a * 283
31 Bopped VS 5a 83
32 Bop Arete Sit Start f6A 2
33 Zoot Route VD ** 370
34 The Nose HVS 5b 97
  Scot Buttress
36 The Neb Buttress
-
M 51
37 The Neb
-
HVS 5b 21
38 The Vallum S 4a 303
39 Hadrian's Wall HS 4b * 384
40 Corner Direct - Left S 4a 265
41 Corner Direct - Right HS 4b * 199
42 Nook and Cranny S 4a * 215
43 Nook and Cranny - Direct Start HS 4b * 241
44 Highland Fling E1 5b 43
45 Bawbee Crack HVD * 282
46 Bloomin heather MVS 4c 16
47 Blaeberry Crack D * 507
48 Blaeberry Buttress Direct HS 4b 301
49 Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack! HD 21
50 Blaeberry Buttress M * 208
51 Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 56
52 Scot's Girdle MVS 4b * 14
  Romulus and Remus
54 Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 55
55 Wolf Wall S 4b * 303
56 Wolf Whistle HS 4b * 334
57 Woodpecker Wall S 4a ** 542
58 Romulus HS 4b * 316
59 Tiber Chimney M 111
60 Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 40
61 Tiber Wall E1 5c 50
62 Remus VS 4c * 183
63 Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 30
  The Prow Area
65 Halyards VD 193
66 Little by Little VD 4a * 242
67 Eliminate Wall HVS 5a 33
68 Main Mast Crack S 4b * 209
69 Stewker E1 5c * 224
Climb name Grade
70 Prowess E3 6b 25
71 The Prow E1 5a ** 250
72 Galley Chimney M 138
73 The Heads HS 4b 220
74 The Bulkhead VS 4c * 358
75 The Bulkhead Variation II HS 4b 9
76 The Keel HVS 5a 45
77 Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 25
  Adam and Eve
79 Jill's Delight D 203
80 Right Hand Side D 161
81 Evens VS 4c * 136
82 Curving Arete VS 4c * 100
83 Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84 Jack's Delight VS 4b * 251
85 Eve E1 5a ** 178
86 Eve - Right Hand E2 5b * 86
87 Hob Nobs E4 6a 7
88 Serpent E4 6a 20
  Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area
90 Green Wall
-
M 64
91 Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 51
92 Archers and lemonade none 5c 3
93 Archer's Crack
-
VD 53
94 Clarence
-
VD 55
95 Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 30
96 Clarence Arete VS 4c 20
97 The Pulpit E1 5b ** 112
98 Sunday Morning Slab V0- 8
99 Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon HVS 5b 39
100 The Choir VD 226
101 Lost Arete VS 5a 95
102 Anvil Chorus VS 5b * 74
103 Forgotten Wall VS 4c * 149
104 Forgotten Arete HVS 5a 111
105 Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 18
106 Lost Chimney
-
M 44
107 Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 41
108 Tried in Vein V3 6a 14
  Cragrat Boulder
110 Hip To Be Square V1 8
111 Mono Pony V2 9
  Drunken Buttress
113 Side Wall f4 * 6
114 Seamy Side D * 316
115 Bottoms Up HS 4b * 371
116 Hangover VS 4c ** 492
117 Tippling Wall HVS 5a ** 453
118 Tippling Wall Left-hand HVS 5b * 41
119 Tippling Arete E1 5b * 132
120 Humbug E4 7a * 11
121 The Shelf E2 5c ** 132
122 Tippling Traverse f6B+ 28
123 Top Pitch VS 5a * 9
  Shark's Head Boulder
125 Shark's Head Left V2 5b 37
126 Shark's Head (Right Hand) V5 6b * 9
  Pisa Buttress
128 Plumb Line S 4a 113
129 Pisa Buttress VS 5a 111
130 Gravity Wall HS 4b * 256
131 Gravity Wall Direct HS 4c ** 152
132 Defying Gravity VS 4c * 19
133 Graviton E1 5b 6
134 Galileo's Gully S 4a 66
135 Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 33
  Scugdale Buttress
137 Tooth and Nail HS 4c * 262
138 Supine VS 5a 89
Climb name Grade
139 Hybrid
-
HS 4b 42
140 Scugdale Chimney Eliminate VS 4c ** 263
141 Scugdale Chimney VD ** 472
142 Scugdale Wall VS 4b 215
143 Zeta Wall VS 4c * 449
144 Deviator HVS 5c * 58
145 Nameless Crack S 4a 57
  Barker's Buttress
147 Cubs' Climb D 307
148 Kitten's Climb VD * 309
149 Pups' Climb S 4b ** 546
150 Bonzo HVS 5b ** 356
151 Pets' Corner VS 4b ** 662
152 The Arete VS 4c * 278
153 Whippet Wall VS 4c * 399
154 Barker's Chimney D 201
155 Pluto HS 4b 371
156 Pluto Variant HVS 6a 138
157 Cat Walk VD 111
158 Hyena S 4a 84
159 Cerberus Crack HS 4b 119
160 Peke's Perch S 4a 142
  Holly Tree Buttress
162 Pingers Left-hand VS 5b 363
163 Pingers VS 5a * 729
164 Pingers Right-hand VS 5c 201
165 Prickly Rib S 4b 197
166 Holly Tree Chimney HVD 91
167 Touch and Go E2 6b 7
168 Holly Tree Wall VS 4b * 446
169 Holly Tree Hover VS 5a 120
170 Saint's Wall S 4a * 415
171 Oak Tree Wall HS 4a 263
172 Oak Tree Gully Arete S 42
173 Oak Tree Gully Wall D 52
  Humpty Dumpty
175 The Mantelshelf S 4c * 332
176 Humpty Dumpty HS 4b 261
177 The King's Men * VE ** 1
178 All the King's Horses * f6A 1
179 All the King's Horses and All the King's Men * f6A ** 1
  The Razor
181 Left Hand Swing HVD 4b 34
182 Central Route HVD 4a 228
183 Slashed Wall VD 276
184 The Gash D 297
185 The Gash - Arete Finish HS 4b 214
186 Razor Wall HS 4c * 332
187 Razor Rib HVD ** 986
188 Razor Rib Direct VD * 109
189 Gillette VS 5a 278
190 Gillette Variation f6A 9
191 The Strop VD 234
192 Suds HVS 5b 142
193 Tension E1 5c 77
194 Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
195 Tonsure * MS 4a 3
  Beginner's Slab
197 Alpha VD 655
198 Beta VD * 707
199 Gamma HVD 4a * 658
200 Gamma Arete Start MVS 60
  Curtain Slab
202 Curtain Call D 560
203 Curtain Crack VD 606
204 Curtain Corner (Left Side) VD 507
205 Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 253
206 Low Level Traverse none 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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