Climbs 188
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rake's Buttress
2 Offspring f6A 16
3 Aunties VS 5a 113
4 Rake's Progress D 292
5 Uncle's VS 4c * 226
6 Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 126
7 Straight and Narrow VD 349
8 Moderator
-
M 110
9 Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 58
10 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 34
11 Easy Stages
-
M 116
  Oriel Wall
13 Left Side Groove
-
S 39
14 Left Side
-
S 4a 112
15 The Mounting Block
-
HD 123
16 The Nutcrackers
-
D 119
17 The Nutcrackers Wall HVD 60
18 Gentle Slab M 118
19 Spiral Stairs
-
VD 92
20 Spiral Stairs Left Hand D 18
  Parson's Nose Buttress
22 Explode f6A+ 7
23 Parson's Chimney M 183
24 Hand Jive VS 5b 160
25 Left Edge f5 9
26 Jiver's Wall VS 4c * 309
27 Jivers Sit Start f5+ 2
28 Jiver's Wall Right Arete VS 5a 33
29 Jivers Wall Traverse f6B+ * 2
30 Bop Route S 4a * 292
31 Bopped VS 5a 84
32 Bop Arete Sit Start f6A 2
33 Zoot Route VD ** 379
34 The Nose HVS 5b 97
  Scot Buttress
36 The Neb Buttress
-
M 52
37 The Neb
-
HVS 5b 21
38 The Vallum S 4a 315
39 Hadrian's Wall HS 4b * 394
40 Corner Direct - Left S 4a 275
41 Corner Direct - Right HS 4b * 202
42 Nook and Cranny S 4a * 222
43 Nook and Cranny - Direct Start HS 4b * 252
44 Highland Fling E1 5b 44
45 Bawbee Crack HVD * 292
46 Bloomin heather MVS 4c 16
47 Blaeberry Crack D * 521
48 Blaeberry Buttress Direct HS 4b 308
49 Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack! HD 21
50 Blaeberry Buttress M * 216
51 Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 56
52 Scot's Girdle MVS 4b * 14
  Romulus and Remus
54 Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 55
55 Wolf Wall S 4b * 315
56 Wolf Whistle HS 4b * 342
57 Woodpecker Wall S 4a ** 552
58 Romulus HS 4b * 329
59 Tiber Chimney M 119
60 Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 40
61 Tiber Wall E1 5c 52
62 Remus VS 4c * 185
63 Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 30
  The Prow Area
65 Halyards VD 199
66 Little by Little VD 4a * 251
67 Eliminate Wall HVS 5a 33
68 Main Mast Crack S 4b * 213
69 Stewker E1 5c * 235
Climb name Grade
70 Prowess E3 6b 26
71 The Prow E1 5a ** 261
72 Galley Chimney M 144
73 The Heads HS 4b 226
74 The Bulkhead VS 4c * 368
75 The Bulkhead Variation II HS 4b 9
76 The Keel HVS 5a 47
77 Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 25
  Adam and Eve
79 Jill's Delight D 213
80 Right Hand Side D 167
81 Evens VS 4c * 139
82 Curving Arete VS 4c * 101
83 Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84 Jack's Delight VS 4b * 258
85 Eve E1 5a ** 186
86 Eve - Right Hand E2 5b * 90
87 Hob Nobs E4 6a 7
88 Serpent E4 6a 20
  Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area
90 Green Wall
-
M 64
91 Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 51
92 Archers and lemonade none 5c 3
93 Archer's Crack
-
VD 54
94 Clarence
-
VD 56
95 Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 31
96 Clarence Arete VS 4c 21
97 The Pulpit E1 5b ** 114
98 Sunday Morning Slab V0- 8
99 Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon HVS 5b 39
100 The Choir VD 231
101 Lost Arete VS 5a 96
102 Anvil Chorus VS 5b * 77
103 Forgotten Wall VS 4c * 153
104 Forgotten Arete HVS 5a 117
105 Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 18
106 Lost Chimney
-
M 44
107 Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 41
108 Tried in Vein V3 6a 15
  Cragrat Boulder
110 Hip To Be Square V1 9
111 Mono Pony V2 9
  Drunken Buttress
113 Side Wall f4 * 7
114 Seamy Side D * 333
115 Bottoms Up HS 4b * 381
116 Hangover VS 4c ** 513
117 Tippling Wall HVS 5a ** 464
118 Tippling Wall Left-hand HVS 5b * 46
119 Tippling Arete E1 5b * 136
120 Humbug E4 7a * 11
121 The Shelf E2 5c ** 139
122 Tippling Traverse f6B+ 29
123 Top Pitch VS 5a * 10
  Shark's Head Boulder
125 Shark's Head Left V2 5b 40
126 Shark's Head (Right Hand) V5 6b * 9
  Pisa Buttress
128 Plumb Line S 4a 123
129 Pisa Buttress VS 5a 115
130 Gravity Wall HS 4b * 264
131 Gravity Wall Direct HS 4c ** 157
132 Defying Gravity VS 4c * 21
133 Graviton E1 5b 6
134 Galileo's Gully S 4a 68
135 Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 34
  Scugdale Buttress
137 Tooth and Nail HS 4c * 272
138 Supine VS 5a 93
Climb name Grade
139 Hybrid
-
HS 4b 42
140 Scugdale Chimney Eliminate VS 4c ** 273
141 Scugdale Chimney VD ** 490
142 Scugdale Wall VS 4b 217
143 Zeta Wall VS 4c * 468
144 Deviator HVS 5c * 59
145 Nameless Crack S 4a 59
  Barker's Buttress
147 Cubs' Climb D 319
148 Kitten's Climb VD * 329
149 Pups' Climb S 4b ** 565
150 Bonzo HVS 5b ** 370
151 Pets' Corner VS 4b ** 686
152 The Arete VS 4c * 282
153 Whippet Wall VS 4c * 406
154 Barker's Chimney D 212
155 Pluto HS 4b 380
156 Pluto Variant HVS 6a 143
157 Cat Walk VD 116
158 Hyena S 4a 86
159 Cerberus Crack HS 4b 121
160 Peke's Perch S 4a 150
  Holly Tree Buttress
162 Pingers Left-hand VS 5b 377
163 Pingers VS 5a * 752
164 Pingers Right-hand VS 5c 211
165 Prickly Rib S 4b 201
166 Holly Tree Chimney HVD 91
167 Touch and Go E2 6b 7
168 Holly Tree Wall VS 4b * 459
169 Holly Tree Hover VS 5a 121
170 Saint's Wall S 4a * 439
171 Oak Tree Wall HS 4a 277
172 Oak Tree Gully Arete S 47
173 Oak Tree Gully Wall D 58
174 Leaf It Out * V3+  
  Humpty Dumpty
176 The Mantelshelf S 4c * 343
177 Humpty Dumpty HS 4b 272
178 The King's Men * VE ** 1
179 All the King's Horses * f6A 1
180 All the King's Horses and All the King's Men * f6A ** 1
  The Razor
182 Left Hand Swing HVD 4b 39
183 Central Route HVD 4a 238
184 Slashed Wall VD 286
185 The Gash D 309
186 The Gash - Arete Finish HS 4b 221
187 Razor Wall HS 4c * 341
188 Razor Rib HVD ** 1023
189 Razor Rib Direct VD * 121
190 Gillette VS 5a 289
191 Gillette Variation f6A 15
192 The Strop VD 249
193 Suds HVS 5b 149
194 Tension E1 5c 82
195 Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
196 Tonsure * MS 4a 3
  Beginner's Slab
198 Alpha VD 678
199 Beta VD * 733
200 Gamma HVD 4a * 683
201 Gamma Arete Start MVS 64
  Curtain Slab
203 Curtain Call D 586
204 Curtain Crack VD 629
205 Curtain Corner (Left Side) VD 529
206 Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 258
207 Low Level Traverse none 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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