Climbs 184
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rake's Buttress
2 Offspring f6A 8
3 Aunties VS 5a 101
4 Rake's Progress D 247
5 Uncle's VS 4c * 200
6 Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 114
7 Straight and Narrow VD 292
8 Moderator
-
M 95
9 Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 50
10 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 32
11 Easy Stages
-
M 102
  Oriel Wall
13 Left Side Groove
-
S 37
14 Left Side
-
S 4a 98
15 The Mounting Block
-
HD 112
16 The Nutcrackers
-
D 110
17 The Nutcrackers Wall HVD 53
18 Gentle Slab M 107
19 Spiral Stairs
-
VD 86
20 Spiral Stairs Left Hand D 13
  Parson's Nose Buttress
22 Explode f6A+ 4
23 Parson's Chimney M 153
24 Hand Jive VS 5b 140
25 Left Edge f5 5
26 Jiver's Wall VS 4c * 268
27 Jivers Sit Start f5+ 2
28 Jiver's Wall Right Arete VS 5a 29
29 Jivers Wall Traverse f6B+ * 2
30 Bop Route S 4a * 259
31 Bopped VS 5a 73
32 Bop Arete Sit Start f6A 2
33 Zoot Route VD ** 328
34 The Nose HVS 5b 88
  Scot Buttress
36 The Neb Buttress
-
M 45
37 The Neb
-
HVS 5b 18
38 The Vallum S 4a 278
39 Hadrian's Wall HS 4b * 330
40 Corner Direct - Left S 4a 239
41 Corner Direct - Right HS 4b * 175
42 Nook and Cranny S 4a * 188
43 Nook and Cranny - Direct Start HS 4b * 211
44 Highland Fling E1 5b 37
45 Bawbee Crack HVD * 233
46 Bloomin heather MVS 4c 12
47 Blaeberry Crack D * 429
48 Blaeberry Buttress Direct HS 4b 267
49 Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack! HD 19
50 Blaeberry Buttress M * 180
51 Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 46
52 Scot's Girdle MVS 4b * 12
  Romulus and Remus
54 Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 45
55 Wolf Wall S 4b * 264
56 Wolf Whistle HS 4b * 294
57 Woodpecker Wall S 4a ** 460
58 Romulus HS 4b * 264
59 Tiber Chimney M 98
60 Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 37
61 Tiber Wall E1 5c 48
62 Remus VS 4c * 162
63 Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 26
  The Prow Area
65 Halyards VD 177
66 Little by Little VD 4a * 212
67 Eliminate Wall HVS 5a 29
68 Main Mast Crack S 4b * 187
69 Stewker E1 5c * 198
70 Prowess E3 6b 22
71 The Prow E1 5a ** 224
72 Galley Chimney M 124
73 The Heads HS 4b 199
74 The Bulkhead VS 4c * 309
75 The Bulkhead Variation II HS 4b 9
76 The Keel HVS 5a 43
77 Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 24
  Adam and Eve
79 Jill's Delight D 185
80 Right Hand Side D 146
81 Evens VS 4c * 124
82 Curving Arete VS 4c * 88
83 Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84 Jack's Delight VS 4b * 229
85 Eve E1 5a ** 164
86 Eve - Right Hand E2 5b * 81
87 Hob Nobs E4 6a 8
88 Serpent E4 6a 18
  Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area
90 Green Wall
-
M 62
91 Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 49
92 Archers and lemonade none 5c 3
93 Archer's Crack
-
VD 49
94 Clarence
-
VD 50
95 Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 24
96 Clarence Arete VS 4c 18
97 The Pulpit E1 5b ** 108
98 Sunday Morning Slab V0- 8
99 Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon HVS 5b 39
100 The Choir VD 213
101 Lost Arete VS 5a 94
102 Anvil Chorus VS 5b * 68
103 Forgotten Wall VS 4c * 139
104 Forgotten Arete HVS 5a 102
105 Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 17
106 Lost Chimney
-
M 42
107 Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 40
108 Tried in Vein V3 6a 11
  Cragrat Boulder
110 Hip To Be Square V1 8
111 Mono Pony V2 9
  Drunken Buttress
113 Side Wall f4 * 2
114 Seamy Side D * 274
115 Bottoms Up HS 4b * 314
116 Hangover VS 4c ** 428
117 Tippling Wall HVS 5a ** 394
118 Tippling Wall Left-hand HVS 5b * 21
119 Tippling Arete E1 5b * 116
120 Humbug E4 7a * 9
121 The Shelf E2 5c ** 120
122 Tippling Traverse f6B+ 25
123 Top Pitch VS 5a * 6
  Shark's Head Boulder
125 Shark's Head Left V2 5b 31
126 Shark's Head (Right Hand) V5 6b * 9
  Pisa Butress
128 Plumb Line S 4a 103
129 Pisa Buttress VS 5a 99
130 Gravity Wall HS 4b * 221
131 Gravity Wall Direct HS 4c ** 139
132 Defying Gravity VS 4c * 12
133 Graviton E1 5b 4
134 Galileo's Gully S 4a 55
135 Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 30
  Scugdale Buttress
137 Tooth and Nail HS 4c * 225
138 Supine VS 5a 84
139 Hybrid
-
HS 4b 36
140 Scugdale Chimney Eliminate VS 4c ** 216
141 Scugdale Chimney VD ** 390
142 Scugdale Wall VS 4b 186
143 Zeta Wall VS 4c * 375
144 Deviator HVS 5c * 54
145 Nameless Crack S 4a 56
  Barker's Buttress
147 Cubs' Climb D 266
148 Kitten's Climb VD * 262
149 Pups' Climb S 4b ** 473
150 Bonzo HVS 5b ** 316
151 Pets' Corner VS 4b ** 560
152 The Arete VS 4c * 248
153 Whippet Wall VS 4c * 338
154 Barker's Chimney D 174
155 Pluto HS 4b 302
156 Pluto Variant HVS 6a 116
157 Cat Walk VD 98
158 Hyena S 4a 77
159 Cerberus Crack HS 4b 109
160 Peke's Perch S 4a 122
  Holly Tree Buttress
162 Pingers Left-hand VS 5b 310
163 Pingers VS 5a * 629
164 Pingers Right-hand VS 5c 174
165 Prickly Rib S 4b 181
166 Holly Tree Chimney HVD 85
167 Touch and Go E2 6b 7
168 Holly Tree Wall VS 4b * 355
169 Holly Tree Hover VS 5a 105
170 Saint's Wall S 4a * 353
171 Oak Tree Wall HS 4a 225
172 Oak Tree Gully Arete S 40
173 Oak Tree Gully Wall D 51
  Humpty Dumpty
175 The Mantelshelf S 4c * 293
176 Humpty Dumpty HS 4b 235
  The Razor
178 Left Hand Swing HVD 4b 28
179 Central Route HVD 4a 206
180 Slashed Wall VD 243
181 The Gash D 259
182 The Gash - Arete Finish HS 4b 188
183 Razor Wall HS 4c * 290
184 Razor Rib HVD ** 827
185 Razor Rib Direct VD * 77
186 Gillette VS 5a 235
187 Gillette Variation f6A 8
188 The Strop VD 203
189 Suds HVS 5b 122
190 Tension E1 5c 70
191 Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
192 Tonsure * MS 4a 2
  Beginner's Slab
194 Alpha VD 573
195 Beta VD * 601
196 Gamma HVD 4a * 568
197 Gamma Arete Start MVS 43
  Curtain Slab
199 Curtain Call D 483
200 Curtain Crack VD 509
201 Curtain Corner (Left Side) VD 427
202 Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 213
203 Low Level Traverse none 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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