Climbs 184
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 7
3AuntiesVS 5a 95
4Rake's ProgressD 235
5Uncle'sVS 4c *188
6Mother's Little Helper
S 4a 105
7Straight and NarrowVD 273
M 91
9Moderator (Nose start)
D 47
10Direct Variation
HVS 5b 28
11Easy Stages
M 97
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
S 34
14Left Side
S 4a 94
15The Mounting Block
HD 108
16The Nutcrackers
D 107
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 52
18Gentle SlabM 102
19Spiral Stairs
VD 79
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 9
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 3
23Parson's ChimneyM 143
24Hand JiveVS 5b 129
25Left Edge *f5 5
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *249
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 2
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 27
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *250
31BoppedVS 5a 70
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 2
33Zoot RouteVD **311
34The NoseHVS 5b 83
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
M 37
37The Neb
HVS 5b 18
38The VallumS 4a 259
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *303
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 223
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *164
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *180
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *193
44Highland FlingE1 5b 36
45Bawbee CrackHVD *221
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 9
47Blaeberry CrackD *403
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 254
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 16
50Blaeberry ButtressM *170
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
HD 38
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *11
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
D 42
55Wolf WallS 4b *252
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *270
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **423
58RomulusHS 4b *245
59Tiber ChimneyM 92
60Decline and Fall
VS 4b 34
61Tiber WallE1 5c 45
62RemusVS 4c *148
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
VS 5a 27
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 168
66Little by LittleVD 4a *199
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 26
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *178
69StewkerE1 5c *185
70ProwessE3 6b 26
71The ProwE1 5a **205
72Galley ChimneyM 116
73The HeadsHS 4b 190
74The BulkheadVS 4c *288
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 7
76The KeelHVS 5a 41
77Plimsoll Line
none 4c 23
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 171
80Right Hand SideD 134
81EvensVS 4c *114
82Curving AreteVS 4c *81
E1 5c 8
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *207
85EveE1 5a **148
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *82
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 19
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
M 60
91Archer's Arete
HS 4b 48
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
VD 47
VD 47
95Clarence Direct
VS 5b 22
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 16
97The PulpitE1 5b **101
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 39
100The ChoirVD 198
101Lost AreteVS 5a 90
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *65
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *130
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 97
105Low Level Traverse
none 4b 15
106Lost Chimney
M 39
107Wall and Crack
S 4a 37
108Tried in VeinV3 12
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 7
111Mono PonyV2 8
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *254
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *291
116HangoverVS 4c **393
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **370
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *12
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *111
120HumbugE4 7a *10
121The ShelfE2 5c **115
122Tippling Traverse
none 6b *23
123Top PitchVS 5a *5
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 31
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *8
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 100
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 93
130Gravity WallHS 4b *204
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **130
132Defying GravityVS 4c *12
133GravitonE1 5b 4
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 52
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
D 29
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *202
138SupineVS 5a 78
HS 4b 34
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **199
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **363
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 180
143Zeta WallVS 4c *349
144DeviatorHVS 5c *50
145Nameless CrackS 4a 54
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 245
148Kitten's ClimbVD *243
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **437
150BonzoHVS 5b **294
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **509
152The AreteVS 4c *236
153Whippet WallVS 4c *315
154Barker's ChimneyD 164
155PlutoHS 4b 278
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 107
157Cat WalkVD 89
158HyenaS 4a 72
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 107
160Peke's PerchS 4a 120
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 287
163PingersVS 5a *577
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 161
165Prickly RibS 4b 174
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 82
167Touch and GoE2 6b 7
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *320
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 98
170Saint's WallS 4a *328
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 209
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 36
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 45
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *275
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 229
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 25
179Central RouteHVD 4a 193
180Slashed WallVD 232
181The GashD 245
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 180
183Razor WallHS 4c *273
184Razor RibHVD **749
185Razor Rib DirectVD *69
186GilletteVS 5a 217
187Gillette Variationf6A 6
188The StropVD 189
189SudsHVS 5b 113
190TensionE1 5c 61
191Tension Right-Hand
VS 5a 24
192Tonsure *MS 4a 1
 Beginner's Slab 
194AlphaVD 534
195BetaVD *547
196GammaHVD 4a *529
197Gamma Arete StartMVS 37
 Curtain Slab 
199Curtain CallD 445
200Curtain CrackVD 462
201Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 389
202Curtain Corner (Right Side)
D 196
203Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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