UKC

Climbs 184
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rake's Buttress
2 Offspring f6A 9
3 Aunties VS 5a 101
4 Rake's Progress D 249
5 Uncle's VS 4c * 199
6 Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 114
7 Straight and Narrow VD 295
8 Moderator
-
M 95
9 Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 51
10 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 30
11 Easy Stages
-
M 102
  Oriel Wall
13 Left Side Groove
-
S 38
14 Left Side
-
S 4a 99
15 The Mounting Block
-
HD 113
16 The Nutcrackers
-
D 111
17 The Nutcrackers Wall HVD 55
18 Gentle Slab M 108
19 Spiral Stairs
-
VD 87
20 Spiral Stairs Left Hand D 13
  Parson's Nose Buttress
22 Explode f6A+ 4
23 Parson's Chimney M 153
24 Hand Jive VS 5b 141
25 Left Edge f5 6
26 Jiver's Wall VS 4c * 272
27 Jivers Sit Start f5+ 2
28 Jiver's Wall Right Arete VS 5a 30
29 Jivers Wall Traverse f6B+ * 2
30 Bop Route S 4a * 260
31 Bopped VS 5a 73
32 Bop Arete Sit Start f6A 2
33 Zoot Route VD ** 331
34 The Nose HVS 5b 89
  Scot Buttress
36 The Neb Buttress
-
M 47
37 The Neb
-
HVS 5b 18
38 The Vallum S 4a 280
39 Hadrian's Wall HS 4b * 335
40 Corner Direct - Left S 4a 243
41 Corner Direct - Right HS 4b * 174
42 Nook and Cranny S 4a * 189
43 Nook and Cranny - Direct Start HS 4b * 213
44 Highland Fling E1 5b 37
45 Bawbee Crack HVD * 236
46 Bloomin heather MVS 4c 12
47 Blaeberry Crack D * 434
48 Blaeberry Buttress Direct HS 4b 270
49 Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack! HD 20
50 Blaeberry Buttress M * 181
51 Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 47
52 Scot's Girdle MVS 4b * 12
  Romulus and Remus
54 Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 46
55 Wolf Wall S 4b * 264
56 Wolf Whistle HS 4b * 295
57 Woodpecker Wall S 4a ** 466
58 Romulus HS 4b * 264
59 Tiber Chimney M 98
60 Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 37
61 Tiber Wall E1 5c 48
62 Remus VS 4c * 160
63 Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 27
  The Prow Area
65 Halyards VD 177
66 Little by Little VD 4a * 216
67 Eliminate Wall HVS 5a 30
68 Main Mast Crack S 4b * 186
Climb name Grade
69 Stewker E1 5c * 201
70 Prowess E3 6b 23
71 The Prow E1 5a ** 226
72 Galley Chimney M 125
73 The Heads HS 4b 201
74 The Bulkhead VS 4c * 313
75 The Bulkhead Variation II HS 4b 9
76 The Keel HVS 5a 43
77 Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 24
  Adam and Eve
79 Jill's Delight D 188
80 Right Hand Side D 149
81 Evens VS 4c * 125
82 Curving Arete VS 4c * 89
83 Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84 Jack's Delight VS 4b * 230
85 Eve E1 5a ** 160
86 Eve - Right Hand E2 5b * 81
87 Hob Nobs E4 6a 7
88 Serpent E4 6a 18
  Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area
90 Green Wall
-
M 63
91 Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 50
92 Archers and lemonade none 5c 3
93 Archer's Crack
-
VD 50
94 Clarence
-
VD 50
95 Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 28
96 Clarence Arete VS 4c 19
97 The Pulpit E1 5b ** 105
98 Sunday Morning Slab V0- 8
99 Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon HVS 5b 39
100 The Choir VD 213
101 Lost Arete VS 5a 95
102 Anvil Chorus VS 5b * 70
103 Forgotten Wall VS 4c * 140
104 Forgotten Arete HVS 5a 104
105 Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 17
106 Lost Chimney
-
M 42
107 Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 40
108 Tried in Vein V3 6a 13
  Cragrat Boulder
110 Hip To Be Square V1 8
111 Mono Pony V2 9
  Drunken Buttress
113 Side Wall f4 * 2
114 Seamy Side D * 281
115 Bottoms Up HS 4b * 319
116 Hangover VS 4c ** 430
117 Tippling Wall HVS 5a ** 399
118 Tippling Wall Left-hand HVS 5b * 25
119 Tippling Arete E1 5b * 119
120 Humbug E4 7a * 9
121 The Shelf E2 5c ** 118
122 Tippling Traverse f6B+ 25
123 Top Pitch VS 5a * 7
  Shark's Head Boulder
125 Shark's Head Left V2 5b 34
126 Shark's Head (Right Hand) V5 6b * 9
  Pisa Butress
128 Plumb Line S 4a 103
129 Pisa Buttress VS 5a 99
130 Gravity Wall HS 4b * 224
131 Gravity Wall Direct HS 4c ** 137
132 Defying Gravity VS 4c * 14
133 Graviton E1 5b 4
134 Galileo's Gully S 4a 55
135 Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 31
Climb name Grade
  Scugdale Buttress
137 Tooth and Nail HS 4c * 227
138 Supine VS 5a 84
139 Hybrid
-
HS 4b 37
140 Scugdale Chimney Eliminate VS 4c ** 223
141 Scugdale Chimney VD ** 404
142 Scugdale Wall VS 4b 192
143 Zeta Wall VS 4c * 376
144 Deviator HVS 5c * 54
145 Nameless Crack S 4a 56
  Barker's Buttress
147 Cubs' Climb D 274
148 Kitten's Climb VD * 270
149 Pups' Climb S 4b ** 486
150 Bonzo HVS 5b ** 319
151 Pets' Corner VS 4b ** 569
152 The Arete VS 4c * 257
153 Whippet Wall VS 4c * 350
154 Barker's Chimney D 176
155 Pluto HS 4b 314
156 Pluto Variant HVS 6a 119
157 Cat Walk VD 98
158 Hyena S 4a 79
159 Cerberus Crack HS 4b 111
160 Peke's Perch S 4a 122
  Holly Tree Buttress
162 Pingers Left-hand VS 5b 316
163 Pingers VS 5a * 635
164 Pingers Right-hand VS 5c 177
165 Prickly Rib S 4b 183
166 Holly Tree Chimney HVD 85
167 Touch and Go E2 6b 7
168 Holly Tree Wall VS 4b * 362
169 Holly Tree Hover VS 5a 106
170 Saint's Wall S 4a * 359
171 Oak Tree Wall HS 4a 226
172 Oak Tree Gully Arete S 41
173 Oak Tree Gully Wall D 52
  Humpty Dumpty
175 The Mantelshelf S 4c * 295
176 Humpty Dumpty HS 4b 238
  The Razor
178 Left Hand Swing HVD 4b 29
179 Central Route HVD 4a 207
180 Slashed Wall VD 244
181 The Gash D 262
182 The Gash - Arete Finish HS 4b 189
183 Razor Wall HS 4c * 292
184 Razor Rib HVD ** 842
185 Razor Rib Direct VD * 81
186 Gillette VS 5a 236
187 Gillette Variation f6A 8
188 The Strop VD 206
189 Suds HVS 5b 126
190 Tension E1 5c 69
191 Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
192 Tonsure * MS 4a 2
  Beginner's Slab
194 Alpha VD 581
195 Beta VD * 612
196 Gamma HVD 4a * 575
197 Gamma Arete Start MVS 45
  Curtain Slab
199 Curtain Call D 494
200 Curtain Crack VD 522
201 Curtain Corner (Left Side) VD 436
202 Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 219
203 Low Level Traverse none 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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