Climbs 184
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 7
3AuntiesVS 5a 97
4Rake's ProgressD 240
5Uncle'sVS 4c *193
6Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 112
7Straight and NarrowVD 283
8Moderator
-
M 93
9Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 48
10Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 29
11Easy Stages
-
M 101
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
-
S 36
14Left Side
-
S 4a 97
15The Mounting Block
-
HD 111
16The Nutcrackers
-
D 110
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 53
18Gentle SlabM 105
19Spiral Stairs
-
VD 82
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 12
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explodef6A+ 4
23Parson's ChimneyM 148
24Hand JiveVS 5b 138
25Left Edgef5 5
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *264
27Jivers Sit Startf5+ 2
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 29
29Jivers Wall Traversef6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *251
31BoppedVS 5a 72
32Bop Arete Sit Startf6A 2
33Zoot RouteVD **318
34The NoseHVS 5b 84
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
-
M 45
37The Neb
-
HVS 5b 18
38The VallumS 4a 273
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *321
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 235
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *167
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *186
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *203
44Highland FlingE1 5b 36
45Bawbee CrackHVD *231
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 12
47Blaeberry CrackD *418
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 263
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 18
50Blaeberry ButtressM *176
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 43
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *12
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 44
55Wolf WallS 4b *259
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *287
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **439
58RomulusHS 4b *260
59Tiber ChimneyM 95
60Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 35
61Tiber WallE1 5c 44
62RemusVS 4c *155
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 26
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 173
66Little by LittleVD 4a *208
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 26
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *182
69StewkerE1 5c *188
70ProwessE3 6b 22
71The ProwE1 5a **212
72Galley ChimneyM 121
73The HeadsHS 4b 193
74The BulkheadVS 4c *297
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 8
76The KeelHVS 5a 42
77Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 24
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 181
80Right Hand SideD 143
81EvensVS 4c *120
82Curving AreteVS 4c *85
83Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *222
85EveE1 5a **152
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *79
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 18
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
-
M 62
91Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 49
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
-
VD 49
94Clarence
-
VD 50
95Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 22
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 17
97The PulpitE1 5b **105
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 39
100The ChoirVD 210
101Lost AreteVS 5a 91
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *65
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *132
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 98
105Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 17
106Lost Chimney
-
M 42
107Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 40
108Tried in VeinV3 11
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 8
111Mono PonyV2 9
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *269
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *306
116HangoverVS 4c **416
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **379
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *15
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *113
120HumbugE4 7a *9
121The ShelfE2 5c **112
122Tippling Traversef6B+ 25
123Top PitchVS 5a *6
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 31
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *9
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 101
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 96
130Gravity WallHS 4b *213
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **133
132Defying GravityVS 4c *12
133GravitonE1 5b 4
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 54
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 30
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *219
138SupineVS 5a 80
139Hybrid
-
HS 4b 35
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **206
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **376
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 184
143Zeta WallVS 4c *360
144DeviatorHVS 5c *52
145Nameless CrackS 4a 55
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 258
148Kitten's ClimbVD *256
149Pups' ClimbS 4b **454
150BonzoHVS 5b **308
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **542
152The AreteVS 4c *244
153Whippet WallVS 4c *333
154Barker's ChimneyD 169
155PlutoHS 4b 295
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 109
157Cat WalkVD 96
158HyenaS 4a 76
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 107
160Peke's PerchS 4a 120
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 300
163PingersVS 5a *612
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 165
165Prickly RibS 4b 179
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 84
167Touch and GoE2 6b 7
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *343
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 101
170Saint's WallS 4a *342
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 221
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 39
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 50
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *284
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 232
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 28
179Central RouteHVD 4a 203
180Slashed WallVD 241
181The GashD 256
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 187
183Razor WallHS 4c *282
184Razor RibHVD **797
185Razor Rib DirectVD *75
186GilletteVS 5a 227
187Gillette Variationf6A 8
188The StropVD 200
189SudsHVS 5b 120
190TensionE1 5c 69
191Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
192Tonsure *MS 4a 2
 Beginner's Slab 
194AlphaVD 558
195BetaVD *576
196GammaHVD 4a *556
197Gamma Arete StartMVS 41
 Curtain Slab 
199Curtain CallD 470
200Curtain CrackVD 494
201Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 416
202Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 210
203Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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