Climbs 184
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 7
3AuntiesVS 5a 96
4Rake's ProgressD 238
5Uncle'sVS 4c *190
6Mother's Little Helper
S 4a 106
7Straight and NarrowVD 276
M 92
9Moderator (Nose start)
D 48
10Direct Variation
HVS 5b 29
11Easy Stages
M 98
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
S 35
14Left Side
S 4a 96
15The Mounting Block
HD 109
16The Nutcrackers
D 108
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 52
18Gentle SlabM 103
19Spiral Stairs
VD 80
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 10
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explodef6A+ 3
23Parson's ChimneyM 145
24Hand JiveVS 5b 130
25Left Edgef5 5
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *253
27Jivers Sit Startf5+ 2
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 27
29Jivers Wall Traversef6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *252
31BoppedVS 5a 71
32Bop Arete Sit Startf6A 2
33Zoot RouteVD **315
34The NoseHVS 5b 84
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
M 39
37The Neb
HVS 5b 19
38The VallumS 4a 264
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *310
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 226
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *165
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *181
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *197
44Highland FlingE1 5b 37
45Bawbee CrackHVD *226
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 9
47Blaeberry CrackD *412
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 261
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 17
50Blaeberry ButtressM *172
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
HD 38
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *12
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
D 43
55Wolf WallS 4b *255
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *277
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **431
58RomulusHS 4b *249
59Tiber ChimneyM 94
60Decline and Fall
VS 4b 36
61Tiber WallE1 5c 46
62RemusVS 4c *151
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
VS 5a 27
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 169
66Little by LittleVD 4a *201
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 26
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *180
69StewkerE1 5c *188
70ProwessE3 6b 27
71The ProwE1 5a **210
72Galley ChimneyM 119
73The HeadsHS 4b 194
74The BulkheadVS 4c *293
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 7
76The KeelHVS 5a 42
77Plimsoll Line
none 4c 23
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 176
80Right Hand SideD 136
81EvensVS 4c *117
82Curving AreteVS 4c *84
E1 5c 8
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *213
85EveE1 5a **149
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *83
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 19
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
M 61
91Archer's Arete
HS 4b 48
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
VD 48
VD 47
95Clarence Direct
VS 5b 23
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 16
97The PulpitE1 5b **103
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 40
100The ChoirVD 206
101Lost AreteVS 5a 91
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *66
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *131
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 98
105Low Level Traverse
none 4b 15
106Lost Chimney
M 40
107Wall and Crack
S 4a 40
108Tried in VeinV3 12
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 8
111Mono PonyV2 9
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *263
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *295
116HangoverVS 4c **402
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **375
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *12
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *112
120HumbugE4 7a *10
121The ShelfE2 5c **117
122Tippling Traverse
none 6b *25
123Top PitchVS 5a *6
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 32
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *9
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 102
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 94
130Gravity WallHS 4b *205
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **132
132Defying GravityVS 4c *12
133GravitonE1 5b 4
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 54
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
D 30
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *207
138SupineVS 5a 79
HS 4b 35
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **204
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **369
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 183
143Zeta WallVS 4c *356
144DeviatorHVS 5c *51
145Nameless CrackS 4a 55
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 252
148Kitten's ClimbVD *251
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **445
150BonzoHVS 5b **298
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **527
152The AreteVS 4c *241
153Whippet WallVS 4c *323
154Barker's ChimneyD 167
155PlutoHS 4b 285
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 111
157Cat WalkVD 90
158HyenaS 4a 72
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 108
160Peke's PerchS 4a 121
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 293
163PingersVS 5a *595
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 161
165Prickly RibS 4b 178
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 83
167Touch and GoE2 6b 7
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *336
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 102
170Saint's WallS 4a *339
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 217
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 37
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 49
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *283
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 231
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 26
179Central RouteHVD 4a 199
180Slashed WallVD 239
181The GashD 251
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 188
183Razor WallHS 4c *282
184Razor RibHVD **777
185Razor Rib DirectVD *71
186GilletteVS 5a 224
187Gillette Variationf6A 8
188The StropVD 195
189SudsHVS 5b 115
190TensionE1 5c 64
191Tension Right-Hand
VS 5a 24
192Tonsure *MS 4a 2
 Beginner's Slab 
194AlphaVD 548
195BetaVD *566
196GammaHVD 4a *544
197Gamma Arete StartMVS 39
 Curtain Slab 
199Curtain CallD 461
200Curtain CrackVD 483
201Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 407
202Curtain Corner (Right Side)
D 207
203Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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