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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 188
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rake's Buttress
2 Offspring f6A 16
3 Aunties VS 5a 114
4 Rake's Progress D 292
5 Uncle's VS 4c * 230
6 Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 127
7 Straight and Narrow VD 349
8 Moderator
-
M 112
9 Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 61
10 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 34
11 Easy Stages
-
M 116
  Oriel Wall
13 Left Side Groove
-
S 39
14 Left Side
-
S 4a 112
15 The Mounting Block
-
HD 123
16 The Nutcrackers
-
D 119
17 The Nutcrackers Wall HVD 60
18 Gentle Slab M 119
19 Spiral Stairs
-
VD 92
20 Spiral Stairs Left Hand D 18
  Parson's Nose Buttress
22 Explode f6A+ 7
23 Parson's Chimney M 184
24 Hand Jive VS 5b 160
25 Left Edge f5 9
26 Jiver's Wall VS 4c * 310
27 Jivers Sit Start f5+ 2
28 Jiver's Wall Right Arete VS 5a 33
29 Jivers Wall Traverse f6B+ * 2
30 Bop Route S 4a * 295
31 Bopped VS 5a 84
32 Bop Arete Sit Start f6A 2
33 Zoot Route VD ** 383
34 The Nose HVS 5b 99
  Scot Buttress
36 The Neb Buttress
-
M 53
37 The Neb
-
HVS 5b 21
38 The Vallum S 4a 315
39 Hadrian's Wall HS 4b * 395
40 Corner Direct - Left S 4a 277
41 Corner Direct - Right HS 4b * 204
42 Nook and Cranny S 4a * 224
43 Nook and Cranny - Direct Start HS 4b * 253
44 Highland Fling E1 5b 44
45 Bawbee Crack HVD * 292
46 Bloomin heather MVS 4c 16
47 Blaeberry Crack D * 521
48 Blaeberry Buttress Direct HS 4b 309
49 Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack! HD 21
50 Blaeberry Buttress M * 215
51 Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 56
52 Scot's Girdle MVS 4b * 14
  Romulus and Remus
54 Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 55
55 Wolf Wall S 4b * 315
56 Wolf Whistle HS 4b * 343
57 Woodpecker Wall S 4a ** 554
58 Romulus HS 4b * 330
59 Tiber Chimney M 117
60 Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 40
61 Tiber Wall E1 5c 52
62 Remus VS 4c * 187
63 Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 30
  The Prow Area
65 Halyards VD 199
66 Little by Little VD 4a * 251
67 Eliminate Wall HVS 5a 33
68 Main Mast Crack S 4b * 215
69 Stewker E1 5c * 241
Climb name Grade
70 Prowess E3 6b 26
71 The Prow E1 5a ** 266
72 Galley Chimney M 150
73 The Heads HS 4b 230
74 The Bulkhead VS 4c * 373
75 The Bulkhead Variation II HS 4b 9
76 The Keel HVS 5a 48
77 Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 25
  Adam and Eve
79 Jill's Delight D 215
80 Right Hand Side D 169
81 Evens VS 4c * 141
82 Curving Arete VS 4c * 103
83 Megabite
-
E1 5c 8
84 Jack's Delight VS 4b * 261
85 Eve E1 5a ** 192
86 Eve - Right Hand E2 5b * 92
87 Hob Nobs E4 6a 7
88 Serpent E4 6a 20
  Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area
90 Green Wall
-
M 64
91 Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 51
92 Archers and lemonade none 5c 3
93 Archer's Crack
-
VD 56
94 Clarence
-
VD 58
95 Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 32
96 Clarence Arete VS 4c 21
97 The Pulpit E1 5b ** 115
98 Sunday Morning Slab V0- 8
99 Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon HVS 5b 40
100 The Choir VD 233
101 Lost Arete VS 5a 96
102 Anvil Chorus VS 5b * 79
103 Forgotten Wall VS 4c * 158
104 Forgotten Arete HVS 5a 120
105 Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 20
106 Lost Chimney
-
M 45
107 Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 42
108 Tried in Vein V3 6a 15
  Cragrat Boulder
110 Hip To Be Square V1 9
111 Mono Pony V2 9
  Drunken Buttress
113 Side Wall f4 * 9
114 Seamy Side D * 335
115 Bottoms Up HS 4b * 384
116 Hangover VS 4c ** 521
117 Tippling Wall HVS 5a ** 470
118 Tippling Wall Left-hand HVS 5b * 47
119 Tippling Arete E1 5b * 139
120 Humbug E4 7a * 11
121 The Shelf E2 5c ** 145
122 Tippling Traverse f6B+ 32
123 Top Pitch VS 5a * 11
  Shark's Head Boulder
125 Shark's Head Left V2 5b 40
126 Shark's Head (Right Hand) V5 6b * 9
  Pisa Buttress
128 Plumb Line S 4a 126
129 Pisa Buttress VS 5a 117
130 Gravity Wall HS 4b * 265
131 Gravity Wall Direct HS 4c ** 159
132 Defying Gravity VS 4c * 21
133 Graviton E1 5b 6
134 Galileo's Gully S 4a 69
135 Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 34
  Scugdale Buttress
137 Tooth and Nail HS 4c * 274
138 Supine VS 5a 94
Climb name Grade
139 Hybrid
-
HS 4b 43
140 Scugdale Chimney Eliminate VS 4c ** 276
141 Scugdale Chimney VD ** 493
142 Scugdale Wall VS 4b 219
143 Zeta Wall VS 4c * 473
144 Deviator HVS 5c * 61
145 Nameless Crack S 4a 59
  Barker's Buttress
147 Cubs' Climb D 320
148 Kitten's Climb VD * 329
149 Pups' Climb S 4b ** 572
150 Bonzo HVS 5b ** 377
151 Pets' Corner VS 4b ** 697
152 The Arete VS 4c * 285
153 Whippet Wall VS 4c * 411
154 Barker's Chimney D 212
155 Pluto HS 4b 387
156 Pluto Variant HVS 6a 147
157 Cat Walk VD 117
158 Hyena S 4a 86
159 Cerberus Crack HS 4b 121
160 Peke's Perch S 4a 152
  Holly Tree Buttress
162 Pingers Left-hand VS 5b 384
163 Pingers VS 5a * 762
164 Pingers Right-hand VS 5c 215
165 Prickly Rib S 4b 204
166 Holly Tree Chimney HVD 92
167 Touch and Go E2 6b 7
168 Holly Tree Wall VS 4b * 463
169 Holly Tree Hover VS 5a 123
170 Saint's Wall S 4a * 443
171 Oak Tree Wall HS 4a 280
172 Oak Tree Gully Arete S 49
173 Oak Tree Gully Wall D 60
174 Leaf It Out * V3+  
  Humpty Dumpty
176 The Mantelshelf S 4c * 345
177 Humpty Dumpty HS 4b 274
178 The King's Men * VE ** 1
179 All the King's Horses * f6A 1
180 All the King's Horses and All the King's Men * f6A ** 1
  The Razor
182 Left Hand Swing HVD 4b 41
183 Central Route HVD 4a 240
184 Slashed Wall VD 288
185 The Gash D 312
186 The Gash - Arete Finish HS 4b 225
187 Razor Wall HS 4c * 346
188 Razor Rib HVD ** 1030
189 Razor Rib Direct VD * 127
190 Gillette VS 5a 290
191 Gillette Variation f6A 15
192 The Strop VD 253
193 Suds HVS 5b 151
194 Tension E1 5c 84
195 Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 25
196 Tonsure * MS 4a 3
  Beginner's Slab
198 Alpha VD 688
199 Beta VD * 747
200 Gamma HVD 4a * 695
201 Gamma Arete Start MVS 65
  Curtain Slab
203 Curtain Call D 594
204 Curtain Crack VD 638
205 Curtain Corner (Left Side) VD 538
206 Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 263
207 Low Level Traverse none 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier