Altitude 10m a.s.l
Main Wall © Keiran O'Mahony
Benllech beach crag does exactly what it says on the tin, situated on the beach front as you walk towards Craig Dwlban along the beach front from the Benllech beach parking with heights up to 8m.
The crag fits all bouldering needs from easy traverses to super hard roof problems and always has dry areas for those rainy days (unless accompanied by strong onshore winds). Landings are always onto soft dry sand so no need for a spotter or even a mat!!
[Added a circuit of the more obvious easy problems, as accessible limestone bouldering at the easy end is hard to find. Prefixed route names with E1-E18 (easy not extreme!). Problems are left to right. Lower rock is reasonable quality (often sandy so take a rag/soft brush), with a crumbly conglomerate layer above. All easy problems drop off onto mat/downclimb when hands on ledge below the crumbly stuff.
Starting at first full hight wall (Black Wall) to the left of which the crag rapidly diminishes in height and becomes more vegetated. There is then a right angle corner, wall with big footledge, arete as crag changes direction 90 degrees again. Long wall, initially undercut with overhangs, a zawn with a stream, and then a final wall to a ledgy arete. This is the start of the final "easy route", traverse going back leftwards. Many harder eliminates could be worked out.
It's a bit scrappy, but is worth it for a quick session with some interesting moves]
There also looks like potential for a few short but hard sport routes closer to the beach parking (watch this space).
The area is no stranger to chalked hands with fantastic sea cliff sport routes popping up all the while in the area with much thanks to a pioneering handful.
There appears to be no data on the crag at present so if anyone has any more information, please message me.
Park at the beach parking (pay and display) and walk along the beach front.
No guides found for this crag
|What's the crack with this place? Room for development? Aims for NWB Guide?|
Yong_Welsh - 24/Mar/12
|so what climbs are there?
it says 30 but only 2 are there
i was thinking of taking my scouts there in the summer
is there a guide book|
jack1992 - 31/Oct/10
|Did a lot of stuff here over uni summer holidays when staying with parents. Can make up long traverses and some good up problems as well. Some quite easy highball stuff as well.|
Matty - 25/May/10
|1||Under roof traverse||f6A||3|
|2||Over nose traverse||f4||2|
|4||Maker's Mark||V3 **||2|
|5||Traverse of Central Wall (Zawn to Big Roof)||V2 5c *||6|
|6||Two Cracks One Climber||V3 5c/6a **||1|
|7||E1 Easy Corner traverse||VB 4a||4|
|8||E2 Black Wall||VB 4a||4|
|9||E3 Ledge Wall||VB 4b||4|
|10||Yellow wall||VB 4b||5|
|11||Escape the Ivy||VB 4b||6|
|12||E6 Escape the Ivy II||V0- 4c||4|
|13||E7 Trad Corner||VB 4a||7|
|14||E8 V Groove Overhang||V1 5a/b||7|
|15||E9 Yellow Alcove||V0- 4b/c||8|
|16||E9a Ragged Flakes||f5||2|
|17||E9b Ragged Arete||f5||2|
|18||E10 Narrow Alcove||VB 4a||6|
|20||Finger the Crack||V3||3|
|21||E11 Finger the Crack start||V1 5b||2|
|22||E12 V Corner||VB 4b||7|
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Keiran O'Mahony