Climbs 31
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Main Wall © Keiran O'Mahony

Crag features

Benllech beach crag does exactly what it says on the tin, situated on the beach front as you walk towards Craig Dwlban along the beach front from the Benllech beach parking with heights up to 8m.

The crag fits all bouldering needs from easy traverses to super hard roof problems and always has dry areas for those rainy days (unless accompanied by strong onshore winds). Landings are always onto soft dry sand so no need for a spotter or even a mat!!

[Added a circuit of the more obvious easy problems, as accessible limestone bouldering at the easy end is hard to find.  Prefixed route names with E1-E18 (easy not extreme!).  Problems are left to right.  Lower rock is reasonable quality (often sandy so take a rag/soft brush), with a crumbly conglomerate layer above.  All easy problems drop off onto mat/downclimb when hands on ledge below the crumbly stuff.  

Starting at first full hight wall (Black Wall) to the left of which the crag rapidly diminishes in height and becomes more vegetated.  There is then a right angle corner, wall with big footledge, arete as crag changes direction 90 degrees again.  Long wall, initially undercut with overhangs, a zawn with a stream, and then a final wall to a ledgy arete.  This is the start of the final "easy route", traverse going back leftwards.  Many harder eliminates could be worked out.

It's a bit scrappy, but is worth it for a quick session with some interesting moves] 

There also looks like potential for a few short but hard sport routes closer to the beach parking (watch this space).

The area is no stranger to chalked hands with fantastic sea cliff sport routes popping up all the while in the area with much thanks to a pioneering handful.
There appears to be no data on the crag at present so if anyone has any more information, please message me.

Approach notes

Park at the beach parking (pay and display) and walk along the beach front.


No guides found for this crag

What's the crack with this place? Room for development? Aims for NWB Guide?
Yong_Welsh - 24/Mar/12
so what climbs are there? it says 30 but only 2 are there i was thinking of taking my scouts there in the summer is there a guide book
jack1992 - 31/Oct/10
Did a lot of stuff here over uni summer holidays when staying with parents. Can make up long traverses and some good up problems as well. Some quite easy highball stuff as well.
Matty - 25/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Under roof traverse f6A 3
2 Over nose traverse f4 2
3 Nose f5+ 4
4 Maker's Mark V3 ** 2
5 Traverse of Central Wall (Zawn to Big Roof) V2 5c * 7
6 Two Cracks One Climber V3 5c/6a ** 1
7 E1 Easy Corner traverse VB 4a 5
8 E2 Black Wall VB 4a 4
9 E3 Ledge Wall VB 4b 6
10 Yellow wall VB 4b 7
11 Escape the Ivy VB 4b 8
Climb name Grade
12 E6 Escape the Ivy II V0- 4c 4
13 E7 Trad Corner VB 4a 10
14 E8 V Groove Overhang V1 5a/b 9
15 E9 Yellow Alcove V0- 4b/c 10
16 E9a Ragged Flakes f5 2
17 E9b Ragged Arete f5 3
18 E10 Narrow Alcove VB 4a 6
19 Crimp Up V2 1
20 Finger the Crack V3 7
21 E11 Finger the Crack start V1 5b 2
22 E12 V Corner VB 4b 8
Climb name Grade
23 E12a Small cave f4+ 1
24 E13 Bridge Corner V0 4b 4
25 E13a Juggy Wall f2+ 1
26 E13b Juggy Arete f2+ 1
27 E14 Cave and Prow VB 4b 3
28 E15 Cave and Jam VB 4a 3
29 E16 Final Wall Arete VB 3c 3
30 E17 Dark Wall V0 5a 2
31 E18 Traverse Dark wall to overhangs V0 4

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Keiran O'Mahony