Climbs 208
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces W

View Stats

Paul Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett

Crag features

The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Approach notes

Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious
pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.

Topo PDF available at: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/wainstones.htm

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
July 16 - There has been some sad vandalism around the crag, dislodging a number of large blocks which may remain unstable. There is particular damage above Little Bo Peep and it would probably be sensible to inspect the top before climbing as there was debris and some unstable strata evident.
Mike Conlon - 31/Jul/16
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Broughton Buttress
2 Broughton Ridge VD 36
3 Bench Mark Crack HS 4b * 56
4 Bench Mark Wall E1 6a 7
5 Psycho Syndicate E5 6c * 8
6 Tiny's Arete Direct HVS 5b * 17
7 Tiny's Dilemma S 4b * 98
8 Tiny's Dilemma Variation HVS 5a * 69
9 Low Level Traverse
-
none 6a 2
10 Morning Wall S 4a * 153
11 Rookery Nook VD 68
12 Milky Way
-
D 20
13 Black Sheep VD 2
14 Evening Wall
-
VD 27
15 Green Wall HS 4c 23
16 Sheep Walk Slab M * 39
17 Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)
-
D 15
18 Shepherd's Wall S 2
19 Flake, Wall and Crack HS 4b 37
20 Solomon's Porch HS 4b 36
21 Lurch VS 5a 17
22 Humpty Dumpty VD 45
23 Novitiate M 16
  The Steeple and the Needle
25 Steeple Groove HVD * 65
26 Steeple Face E1 5b * 26
27 Steeple Chimney VD * 65
28 Centre Fold HVS 5c 10
29 Chop Yat Ridge S 4a * 61
30 Chop Yat Ridge - Direct Finish HVS 5b ** 5
31 Steeple Gap M 51
32 Main Route D * 140
33 North Route E1 5a ** 57
34 West Face Direct E4 6b * 5
35 West Face Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 2
36 The Girdle
-
VD 5
  Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress
38 Summit Crisis E2 5c * 2
39 Bird Lime E3 5c * 9
40 Bird Lime - Variation Start
-
E3 5c **  
41 Little Bo-Peep VS 4b ** 234
42 Miss Muffet VS 4c * 53
43 On Form
-
E1 5b 10
44 Cantilever VD * 36
45 Peel Out E4 6b 11
46 Ling Arete HVS 5a 14
47 Ling Buttress S 4a ** 469
48 Groove and Crack S 4a * 368
49 Ling Corner HS 4a * 181
50 Ling Corner - Variation Finish HS 4b 2
51 Falcon Rib D 63
52 Cave Route HVD 3
  The Sphinx
54 West Sphinx Climb E2 5b ** 40
55 West Sphinx Direct E3 5b *** 91
56 Direct Start E2 5c * 4
57 Direct Start - Variation
-
E3 6a  
58 Black Night E7 6c 4
59 Terrorist E4 5c * 19
60 Walk on the Wild Side E3 5c 14
61 East Sphinx Direct HVS 5a * 211
62 Left Hand Variation
-
E2 5c 6
63 East Sphinx Climb HVD * 178
64 Sphinx Nose Traverse S 4a *** 665
65 Traverse of the God's
-
E2 5b 2
66 Pip
-
D 24
67 Squeek
-
VD 19
68 Wilfred
-
HD 24
69 Curving Wall
-
VD 13
  Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall
71 Jackdaw Wall E2 6a 15
72 Jackdaw Ridge HVD * 199
73 Jackdaw Gully D * 347
74 Christopher HS 4b * 350
75 Christopher Direct
-
VS 4c 57
76 Wilson's Groove
-
E3 6a 1
77 The Bulge (Super Direct) E2 5b 21
78 The Bulge VS 4c * 67
Climb name Grade
79 The Bulge Direct
-
VS 4b 19
80 The Bulge Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 1
81 Christopher/Bulge Combo
-
VS 4c 4
82 Dusty Rib MS 14
83 The Slab Climb Variation S 4a * 267
84 The Slab Climb HS 4b 490
85 Central Route HVS 5b * 134
86 Wall and Ledge VD ** 677
87 Ridge Route S 4a 201
88 Ridge Route Right Hand HVS 5a 60
89 Wall and Ledge Variant
-
HVD * 63
90 Concave Wall HVS 5b ** 236
91 Bulge Arete E2 6a ** 1
  Garfit Buttress
93 Mousehole Gully D 140
94 Mousehole Gully (outside route)
-
VD 31
95 Garfit Eliminate E1 5b * 10
96 Lemming Slab E4 5c * 24
97 Ali Baba E2 5c *** 106
98 Sesame E2 5b * 18
99 Virgin Wall/Garfit Face HVS 5a 7
100 Cissam
-
E3 5c 1
101 Virgin Wall
-
VS 5a 30
102 Virgin Wall Direct Start
-
E1 5c 6
103 Turkish Delight
-
E1 5b 2
104 Lofty's Ease S 4a 31
105 Lofty's Ease - Left Side VS 5a *  
106 Tom Thumb D 64
  Wainstones Boulders
  The Needle Boulders
109 For Liechtenstein f7A * 10
110 The Path
-
f6A 4
  The Smooth Slab
112 The Frog f6B 4
113 Left Arete (The Slab boulder). none 4c * 24
114 Rock On V2 5c * 22
115 Centre Route V3 6a 15
116 Centre Route (with chipped holds) none 5b 32
117 Right Arete none 5a * 40
  The Bivouac Block
119 West Face f6B 8
120 Layback Crack none 5a * 16
121 Layback Crack Variation One * f6A+  
122 Layback Crack (Just the crack!) * f?  
123 Old Wall
-
f3+ 28
124 Old Wall SS
-
f7A+ ** 3
  No Hands Slab
126 No Hands Slab - Right Edge
-
M 62
127 No Hands Slab - Left Edge
-
D 50
  Hands On Slab
129 Hands On none 4c 24
130 Abutment
-
none 4a 24
  The Hollow
132 The Hollow * f5+  
133 The Hollow SS f6C+ 2
134 The Finger V11 7a 6
  DOK
136 Rocky f6A 5
137 Fruit Machine f6B+ 6
138 DOK
-
f6A+ 9
139 DOK direct SS
-
f6B+ 1
140 South Wall none 5a 14
141 KOD f6C 4
  DO
143 Dead Point f6C 2
144 DO
-
f5 * 11
145 'DO' SS f6B+ 7
146 Full Circle f5+ 2
  Wayside
148 The Wayside VD 11
149 It only gets better SS
-
f6C 2
150 Airbag
-
f6A+ 1
151 The road to Jericho SS
-
f6A+ 2
152 The Good Samaritan MVS 4b 9
153 The Monster f6A 5
  A Boulder
155 Normal Route
-
VD 49
156 'A' Route
-
none 5b 60
Climb name Grade
157 Pebble Climb f6B ** 71
158 Pebble-less Dyno V6 ** 3
159 Pebble Climb Right Hand V5 6b? 6
160 Button It
-
f6B+ 6
161 The Crack f5+ * 148
162 The Crack SS f6A+ 21
163 The Crackless none 5b 10
164 Super Crackless V3 13
165 Steel Fingers f5+ 17
166 Steel Fingers SS f6A 25
167 Temper Arete
-
f4+ 16
168 Temper ArĂȘte SS
-
f6B 9
169 Cracking Up
-
f6A 3
170 Mothers Slab
-
M 45
171 Tapered Slab
-
VD 44
172 Arete ('A' Boulder)
-
none 5a 50
173 Sloper Motion
-
f6A 8
  B Boulder
175 Slab ('B' Boulder)
-
HD * 32
176 ArĂȘte Route ('B' Boulder)
-
VD * 27
177 Redhead's Roof
-
f6B 14
178 On The Edge f4  
179 Cross The Line f2  
180 The Shelf f5+ 56
  Southern Boulders
182 Southern Slab
-
D 37
183 Southern Nose
-
V0+ 5a 44
184 South East Face f3 1
185 Siamese Twin
-
V0- 4c * 30
186 Conjoined f4 6
  The Lip
188 Fade To Grey f7A 15
  The Loaf
190 The Loaf Direct
-
f5 3
191 The Loaf Direct SS f6B * 5
192 Bread Line f4+ * 21
193 Beneath The Breadline f6A+ 1
194 Beneath the Breadline SS f6C+ * 15
195 Central Climb f6A+ 1
196 Daily Bread f6A+ 1
197 Daily Bread SS f6C+ * 19
198 Loaf Traverse
-
f4 6
199 Sloper Traverse
-
V9 1
  The ArĂȘte and Gash
201 Slanting Crack none 4c 4
202 The Arete-Left Side none 5b * 8
203 The Arete-Right Side none 4c 5
204 The Gash S * 9
  Lower Wainstones/Broughton Boulders
206 The Filler * V3 1
207 The Prow f7A *** 53
208 Enigma Variation f6C 2
209 Cruel intentions f7C ** 1
210 Slabbiness f6A+ 9
211 Strongbow
-
V8+ 1
212 Strongbow Crack
-
V2 3
213 Off-beat
-
V2 1
214 The Palmist f6A 10
215 Button Nose
-
V3 2
216 The trick f6A 4
217 You've Pulled V6 25
218 The Prow Extension * V7  
  Other Routes Which still need sorting
220 Girdle Traverse E2 1
221 Fingers
-
V1 5b 38
222 Heel On V2 5c 1
223 Slabs And Ledges
-
E1 5b *  
224 Lifeline SS
-
f6A+ 1
225 Alan's Friend f6C 1
226 Tyrannosaurus Alan f6C+ 1
227 The Groove * f6B+ 2
228 Jet Set * f5+ 1
229 Use Your Loaf * f6B 1
230 Slabbiness *
-
V3+ 2
231 Layback Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V7 3
232 The Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V5  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Sam Marks and Rib1356