Climbs 206
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces W

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Paul Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett

Crag features

The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Approach notes

Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014)

Out of print:
July 16 - There has been some sad vandalism around the crag, dislodging a number of large blocks which may remain unstable. There is particular damage above Little Bo Peep and it would probably be sensible to inspect the top before climbing as there was debris and some unstable strata evident.
nocker - 31/Jul/16
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Broughton Buttress
2 Broughton Ridge VD 36
3 Bench Mark Crack HS 4b * 56
4 Bench Mark Wall E1 6a 7
5 Psycho Syndicate E5 6c * 8
6 Tiny's Arete Direct HVS 5b * 17
7 Tiny's Dilemma S 4b * 97
8 Tiny's Dilemma Variation HVS 5a * 68
9 Low Level Traverse
-
none 6a 2
10 Rookery Nook VD 68
11 Morning Wall S 4a * 149
12 Milky Way
-
D 20
13 Evening Wall
-
VD 27
14 Green Wall HS 4c 23
15 Sheep Walk Slab M * 39
16 Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)
-
D 15
17 Flake, Wall and Crack HS 4b 37
18 Solomon's Porch HS 4b 35
19 Lurch VS 5a 17
20 Humpty Dumpty VD 45
21 Novitiate M 16
  The Steeple and the Needle
23 Steeple Groove HVD * 63
24 Steeple Face E1 5b * 26
25 Steeple Chimney VD * 64
26 Centre Fold HVS 5c 10
27 Chop Yat Ridge S 4a * 61
28 Chop Yat Ridge - Direct Finish HVS 5b ** 5
29 Steeple Gap M 49
30 Main Route D * 138
31 North Route E1 5a ** 56
32 West Face Direct E4 6b * 4
33 West Face Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 2
34 The Girdle
-
VD 5
35 Bird Lime E3 5c * 9
36 Bird Lime - Variation Start
-
E3 5c **  
37 Little Bo-Peep VS 4b ** 225
38 Miss Muffet VS 4c * 51
39 On Form
-
E1 5b 10
  Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress
41 Summit Crisis E2 5c * 2
42 Cantilever VD * 36
43 Peel Out E4 6b 10
44 Ling Buttress S 4a ** 452
45 Ling Arete HVS 5a 13
46 Groove and Crack S 4a * 354
47 Ling Corner HS 4a * 173
48 Falcon Rib D 62
  The Sphinx
50 West Sphinx Climb E2 5b ** 40
51 West Sphinx Direct E3 5b *** 89
52 Direct Start E2 5c * 4
53 Direct Start - Variation
-
E3 6a  
54 Black Night E7 6c 4
55 Terrorist E4 5c * 19
56 Walk on the Wild Side E3 5c 14
57 East Sphinx Direct HVS 5a * 204
58 Left Hand Variation
-
E2 5c 6
59 East Sphinx Climb HVD * 175
60 Sphinx Nose Traverse S 4a *** 636
61 Traverse of the God's
-
E2 5b 2
62 Pip
-
D 24
63 Squeek
-
VD 19
64 Wilfred
-
HD 24
65 Curving Wall
-
VD 13
  Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall
67 Jackdaw Ridge HVD * 194
68 Jackdaw Wall E2 6a 15
69 Jackdaw Gully D * 336
70 Christopher HS 4b * 337
71 Christopher Direct
-
VS 4c 55
Climb name Grade
72 The Bulge (Super Direct) E2 5b 21
73 Wilson's Groove
-
E3 6a  
74 The Bulge VS 4c * 65
75 The Bulge Direct
-
VS 4b 19
76 The Bulge Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 1
77 Christopher/Bulge Combo
-
VS 4c 4
78 Dusty Rib MS 13
79 The Slab Climb Variation S 4a * 252
80 The Slab Climb HS 4b 471
81 Central Route HVS 5b * 130
82 Wall and Ledge VD ** 651
83 Ridge Route S 4a 194
84 Ridge Route Right Hand HVS 5a 60
85 Wall and Ledge Variant
-
HVD * 62
86 Concave Wall HVS 5b ** 231
87 Bulge Arete * E2 6a ** 1
  Garfit Buttress
89 Mousehole Gully D 136
90 Mousehole Gully (outside route)
-
VD 31
91 Garfit Eliminate E1 5b * 9
92 Lemming Slab E4 5c * 22
93 Ali Baba E2 5c *** 103
94 Sesame E2 5b * 18
95 Virgin Wall/Garfit Face HVS 5a 6
96 Cissam
-
E3 5c 1
97 Virgin Wall
-
VS 5a 28
98 Virgin Wall Direct Start
-
E1 5c 6
99 Turkish Delight
-
E1 5b 2
100 Lofty's Ease S 4a 31
101 Tom Thumb D 61
  Other Routes Which still need sorting
103 Girdle Traverse E2 1
104 The Path
-
none 5c 4
105 Left Arete (The Slab boulder). none 4c * 24
106 Rock On V2 5c * 22
107 Monolith f6C 4
108 Centre Route V3 6a 13
109 Centre Route (with chipped holds) none 5b 32
110 Right Arete none 5a * 37
111 Layback Crack none 5a * 16
112 Old Wall
-
none 4c 28
113 No Hands Slab - Right Edge
-
M 61
114 No Hands Slab - Left Edge
-
D 49
115 Hands On none 4c 24
116 Abutment
-
none 4a 24
117 The Finger V11 7a 6
118 South Wall none 5a 14
119 DO
-
none 5b * 10
120 The Wayside VD 11
121 The Good Samaritan MVS 4b 9
122 The Crack V0+ 5b * 135
123 The Crackless none 5b 9
124 Fingers
-
V1 5b 38
125 Super Crackless V3 11
126 Arete ('A' Boulder)
-
none 5a 49
127 Slab ('A' Boulder)
-
M 45
128 Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)
-
VD 44
129 Pebble Climb V3 6a ** 62
130 Pebble Climb Right Hand V5 6b? 6
131 Pebble-less Dyno V6 ** 3
132 'A' Route
-
none 5b 54
133 Normal Route
-
VD 46
134 ArĂȘte Route ('B' Boulder)
-
VD * 27
135 Redhead's Roof
-
none 6a 13
136 Slab ('B' Boulder)
-
HD * 32
137 The Shelf V2 5c 49
138 Slanting Crack none 4c 4
139 The Arete-Left Side none 5b * 8
140 The Arete-Right Side none 4c 5
141 The Gash S * 9
142 Bread Line none 5b * 20
Climb name Grade
143 Beneath the Breadline f6C+ * 14
144 Daily Bread f6C+ * 18
145 Fade To Grey f7A 15
146 Southern Slab
-
D 37
147 Southern Nose
-
V0+ 5a 43
148 Siamese Twin
-
V0- 4c * 30
149 The Prow f7A *** 47
150 For Liechtenstein f7A * 10
151 Heel On V2 5c 1
152 Steel Fingers (wainstones)
-
f5+ 16
153 Temper Arete
-
f4+ 15
154 Slabs And Ledges
-
E1 5b *  
155 Cave Route HVD 3
156 Lofty's Ease - Left Side VS 5a *  
157 West Face f6B 3
158 Black Sheep VD 2
159 Shepherd's Wall S 2
160 KOD
-
f6C 4
161 Old Wall SS
-
f7A+ ** 3
162 Button It
-
f6B+ 5
163 Sloper Motion
-
f6A 5
164 Loaf Traverse
-
f4 6
165 The Loaf Direct
-
f3 3
166 The Loaf Direct (Sit Start) f6B * 5
167 The Monster f6A 3
168 Cruel intentions f7C ** 1
169 You've Pulled V6 24
170 Temper ArĂȘte SS
-
f6B 8
171 Lifeline SS
-
f6A+ 1
172 DOK
-
f6A+ 9
173 DOK direct SS
-
f6B+ 1
174 Airbag
-
f6A+ 1
175 The road to Jericho SS
-
f6A+ 2
176 It only gets better SS
-
f6C 2
177 The Palmist f6A 8
178 The trick f6A 4
179 Slabbiness f6A+ 9
180 Fruit Machine f6B+ 4
181 The Frog f6B 3
182 Dead Point f6C 2
183 'DO' f6B+ 7
184 Rocky f6A 5
185 Alan's Friend f6C 1
186 Tyrannosaurus Alan f6C+ 1
187 Steel Fingers SDS f6A 22
188 The Crack SDS f6A+ 17
189 Enigma Variation f6C 2
190 Ling Corner - Variation Finish * HS 4b 2
191 09 Slab And Crack * VD 4a  
192 The Groove * f6B+ 2
193 Jet Set * f5+ 1
194 Conjoined * f4 6
195 Use Your Loaf * f6B 1
196 The Filler * V3 1
197 Slabbiness *
-
V3+ 2
198 Strongbow Crack *
-
V2 3
199 Off-beat *
-
V2 1
200 The Palmist *
-
V3  
201 Button Nose *
-
V3 2
202 The Trick *
-
V3  
203 Layback Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V7 3
204 The Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V5  
205 The Hollow *
-
V5 2
206 Strongbow *
-
V8+ 1
207 Dead Point *
-
V5  
208 The Frog *
-
V4 1
209 Sloper Traverse *
-
V9 1
210 Full Circle * f5+ 2
211 Pebble Problem * f6B 1
212 The Crack (A Boulder) * f5+ 4
213 Cracking Up *
-
f6A 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks