Climbs 202
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces W

Paul Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett

Crag features

The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Approach notes

Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014)

Out of print:
July 16 - There has been some sad vandalism around the crag, dislodging a number of large blocks which may remain unstable. There is particular damage above Little Bo Peep and it would probably be sensible to inspect the top before climbing as there was debris and some unstable strata evident.
nocker - 31/Jul/16
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Broughton Buttress
2 Broughton Ridge VD 32
3 Bench Mark Crack HS 4b * 55
4 Bench Mark Wall E1 6a 7
5 Psycho Syndicate E5 6c * 7
6 Tiny's Arete Direct HVS 5b * 17
7 Tiny's Dilemma S 4b * 82
8 Tiny's Dilemma Variation HVS 5a * 61
9 Low Level Traverse
-
none 6a 2
10 Rookery Nook VD 57
11 Morning Wall S 4a * 135
12 Milky Way
-
D 20
13 Evening Wall
-
VD 27
14 Green Wall HS 4c 22
15 Sheep Walk Slab M * 35
16 Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)
-
D 14
17 Flake, Wall and Crack HS 4b 32
18 Solomon's Porch HS 4b 31
19 Lurch VS 5a 15
20 Humpty Dumpty VD 40
21 Novitiate M 16
  The Steeple and the Needle
23 Steeple Groove HVD * 54
24 Steeple Face E1 5b * 22
25 Steeple Chimney VD * 56
26 Centre Fold HVS 5c 10
27 Chop Yat Ridge S 4a * 48
28 Chop Yat Ridge - Direct Finish HVS 5b ** 5
29 Steeple Gap M 40
30 Main Route D * 118
31 North Route E1 5a ** 49
32 West Face Direct E4 6b * 4
33 West Face Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 2
34 The Girdle
-
VD 5
35 Bird Lime E3 5c * 6
36 Bird Lime - Variation Start
-
E3 5c **  
37 Little Bo-Peep VS 4b ** 203
38 Miss Muffet VS 4c * 45
39 On Form
-
E1 5b 10
  Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress
41 Summit Crisis E2 5c * 2
42 Cantilever VD * 30
43 Peel Out E4 6b 7
44 Ling Buttress S 4a ** 396
45 Ling Arete HVS 5a 12
46 Groove and Crack S 4a * 297
47 Ling Corner HS 4a * 156
48 Falcon Rib D 52
  The Sphinx
50 West Sphinx Climb E2 5b ** 38
51 West Sphinx Direct E3 5b *** 93
52 Direct Start E2 5c * 4
53 Direct Start - Variation
-
E3 6a  
54 Black Night E7 6c 4
55 Terrorist E4 5c * 14
56 Walk on the Wild Side E3 5c 11
57 East Sphinx Direct HVS 5a * 191
58 Left Hand Variation
-
E2 5c 5
59 East Sphinx Climb HVD * 155
60 Sphinx Nose Traverse S 4a *** 572
61 Traverse of the God's
-
E2 5b 2
62 Pip
-
D 24
63 Squeek
-
VD 19
64 Wilfred
-
HD 23
65 Curving Wall
-
VD 13
  Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall
67 Jackdaw Ridge HVD * 166
68 Jackdaw Wall E2 6a 13
69 Jackdaw Gully D * 263
70 Christopher HS 4b * 308
71 Christopher Direct
-
VS 4c 48
72 The Bulge (Super Direct) E2 5b 17
73 Wilson's Groove
-
E3 6a  
74 The Bulge VS 4c * 54
75 The Bulge Direct
-
VS 4b 18
76 The Bulge Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 1
77 Christopher/Bulge Combo
-
VS 4c 4
78 Dusty Rib MS 13
79 The Slab Climb Variation S 4a * 209
80 The Slab Climb HS 4b 403
81 Central Route HVS 5b * 120
82 Wall and Ledge VD ** 545
83 Ridge Route S 4a 156
84 Ridge Route Right Hand HVS 5a 50
85 Wall and Ledge Variant
-
HVD * 56
86 Concave Wall HVS 5b ** 226
  Garfit Buttress
88 Mousehole Gully D 98
89 Mousehole Gully (outside route)
-
VD 29
90 Garfit Eliminate E1 5b * 9
91 Lemming Slab E4 5c * 19
92 Ali Baba E2 5c *** 110
93 Sesame E2 5b * 18
94 Virgin Wall/Garfit Face HVS 5a 5
95 Cissam
-
E3 5c 1
96 Virgin Wall
-
VS 5a 25
97 Virgin Wall Direct Start
-
E1 5c 6
98 Turkish Delight
-
E1 5b 2
99 Lofty's Ease S 4a 27
100 Tom Thumb D 39
  Other Routes Which still need sorting
102 Girdle Traverse E2 1
103 The Path
-
none 5c 3
104 Left Arete (The Slab boulder). none 4c * 19
105 Rock On V2 5c * 21
106 Monolith f6C 4
107 Centre Route V3 6a 13
108 Centre Route (with chipped holds) none 5b 25
109 Right Arete none 5a * 32
110 Layback Crack none 5a * 14
111 Old Wall
-
none 4c 26
112 No Hands Slab - Right Edge
-
M 39
113 No Hands Slab - Left Edge
-
D 30
114 Hands On none 4c 21
115 Abutment
-
none 4a 18
116 The Finger V11 7a 4
117 South Wall none 5a 12
118 DO
-
none 5b * 10
119 The Wayside VD 10
120 The Good Samaritan MVS 4b 8
121 The Crack V0+ 5b * 98
122 The Crackless none 5b 8
123 Fingers
-
V1 5b 37
124 Super Crackless V3 8
125 Arete ('A' Boulder)
-
none 5a 44
126 Slab ('A' Boulder)
-
M 40
127 Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)
-
VD 35
128 Pebble Climb V3 6a ** 49
129 Pebble Climb Right Hand V5 6b? 5
130 Pebble-less Dyno V6 ** 3
131 'A' Route
-
none 5b 43
132 Normal Route
-
VD 37
133 ArĂȘte Route ('B' Boulder)
-
VD * 24
134 Redhead's Roof
-
none 6a 9
135 Slab ('B' Boulder)
-
HD * 27
136 The Shelf V2 5c 37
137 Slanting Crack none 4c 3
138 The Arete-Left Side none 5b * 4
139 The Arete-Right Side none 4c 2
140 The Gash S * 8
141 Bread Line none 5b * 15
142 Beneath the Breadline f6C+ * 10
143 Daily Bread f6C+ * 14
144 Fade To Grey f7A 9
145 Southern Slab
-
D 21
146 Southern Nose
-
V0+ 5a 27
147 Siamese Twin
-
V0- 4c * 20
148 The Prow f7A *** 29
149 For Liechtenstein f7A * 9
150 Heel On V2 5c 1
151 Steel Fingers (wainstones)
-
f5+ 6
152 Temper Arete
-
f4+ 7
153 Slabs And Ledges
-
E1 5b *  
154 Cave Route HVD 3
155 Lofty's Ease - Left Side VS 5a *  
156 West Face f6B 2
157 Black Sheep VD 1
158 Shepherd's Wall S 1
159 KOD
-
f6C 3
160 Old Wall SS
-
f7A+ ** 3
161 Button It
-
f6B+ 4
162 Sloper Motion
-
f6A 1
163 Loaf Traverse
-
f4 4
164 The Loaf Direct
-
f3 3
165 The Loaf Direct (Sit Start) f6B * 4
166 The Monster f6A 2
167 Cruel intentions f7C **  
168 You've Pulled V6 14
169 Temper ArĂȘte SS
-
f6B 6
170 Lifeline SS
-
f6A+ 1
171 DOK
-
f6A+ 4
172 DOK direct SS
-
f6B+ 1
173 Airbag
-
f6A+ 1
174 The road to Jericho SS
-
f6A+ 2
175 It only gets better SS
-
f6C 2
176 The Palmist f6A 5
177 The trick f6A 3
178 Slabbiness f6A+ 5
179 Fruit Machine f6B+ 3
180 The Frog f6B 3
181 Dead Point f6C 2
182 'DO' f6B+ 4
183 Rocky f6A 5
184 Alan's Friend f6C 1
185 Tyrannosaurus Alan f6C+ 1
186 Steel Fingers SDS f6A 5
187 The Crack SDS f6A+ 4
188 Enigma Variation f6C 2
189 Ling Corner - Variation Finish * HS 4b 2
190 09 Slab And Crack * VD 4a  
191 The Groove * f6B+ 1
192 Jet Set * f5+ 1
193 Conjoined * f4 1
194 Use Your Loaf * f6B 1
195 The Filler * V3 1
196 Slabbiness *
-
V3+  
197 Strongbow Crack *
-
V2 3
198 Off-beat *
-
V2 1
199 The Palmist *
-
V3  
200 Button Nose *
-
V3  
201 The Trick *
-
V3  
202 Layback Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V7 1
203 The Crack Left-Hand SS *
-
V5  
204 The Hollow *
-
V5 2
205 Strongbow *
-
V8+ 1
206 Dead Point *
-
V5  
207 The Frog *
-
V4  
208 Sloper Traverse *
-
V9 1
209 Full Circle * f5+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks