Climbs 60
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

blocks © jas wood

Crag features

A small edge of hard, quick-drying sandstone that lost some excellent climbs to a rockfall in 1995. Generally face climbing on small edges. Recommended routes: Zero Route (HVS 5a), Twin Cracks (S), Long Bow (VS 4c), Bowstring (HVS 5b).

Approach notes

No dogs.
>From Stokesley head east along minor roads past Easby towards the village of Kildale. After passing under the railway take the tarmac lane that leads right and onto the moor. Park just over the cattle grid.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Have to agree with Jacks comments about the loose rock at teh top of twin cracks. Quite disconcerting when you stand on it. Wouldn't recomend it to be honest. Nice little crag with enough to keep you busy for a few hours. Was very windy today, and the rock whilst dry was very cold! Must be a lovely spot in the summer. Shame the lines are so short.
martinph78 - 08/Nov/12
Lovely little crag with some very nice, though disappointingly short, lines. Great for breaking into the HVS grade, and nice for them days where everywhere else would be wet. Beware the wobbling block at the top of Twin Cracks, can be disconcerting. Also beware of extreme winds at the top of the crag, tell your partner to shout!
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Great Little Crag, with something for everyone. Quick Drying and in a nice location is it well worth a visit. There is also a boulder, called the NOS boulder that lies on the hillside down to the right of Park Nab over the fence. It is also worth a look as there are some 'Grit' like problems
DaveWarb - 13/Jan/08
One of the photos attached to this crag is actually Fontainbleau!
Simon Caldwell - 13/Jul/05
(13.04.05)After recent rainfall, there are several rocks that are now loose - in particular the large boulder at the top of 'Holly Tree Wall', this wobbles a fair bit and would be unsuitable to place any protection.
Bob Johnson - 14/Apr/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Kildale End
2 Slap Happy
-
HVS 6a * 5
3 Weetabix HVS 5c 3
4 Dangle E2 6a * 14
5 Martins Dilemma E1 6a 1
6 Lions Jaw HVS 5b * 24
7 The Lion King HVS 5c 35
8 Zero Route HVS 5a * 80
9 Cooks Gully-Left Chimney M 97
10 Cooks Gully Table Climb
-
M 76
11 A Step Class S 4b 84
12 High Stepper
-
HVS 5b 25
13 Dave Made Heather Go Home M 8
14 Forked Crack VD 143
15 Achilles Last Stand E2 5c/6a 13
16 Mowgli E1 5b 15
17 Baloo HS 4b 62
18 Grumble in the Jungle VD 111
19 Bagheera E1 5b 5
20 Twisting Chimney D 10
21 Twister E4 5c 7
22 One Day as a Tiger Moth VS 4c * 1
23 Twin Cracks HS 4b ** 320
24 Twin Cracks (Left Crack Only)
-
none 5a 49
25 Twin Cracks (Right Crack Only)
-
none 4b 56
26 Twin Cracks (Neither Crack)
-
none 5c 5
27 Dynamo E2 6b 4
  Ladies Gully
29 Left Gully D * 145
30 Right Crack S 4a 109
  The Pinnacle
32 Pinnacle Crack Eliminate HVS 5a 11
33 Pinnacle Crack-Left Hand D * 123
34 Pinnacle Crack-Right Hand S 4a 93
35 Pinnacle Face E1 5b * 36
36 Chairman's Climb HVS 4c ** 144
37 Chairman's Climb (direct start) HVS 5a ** 14
38 Chockstone Chimney D 159
  Jack's Wall
40 Wall Bar Buttress S 4a * 270
41 Wall Bar Buttress (Left Crack Only)
-
HS 4b 62
42 Parallel Lines VS 4c * 54
43 Picture This HVS 5a * 60
44 Scoop Chimney VD * 142
45 Pessimist E3 5c 13
46 Pessimist Variation Finish
-
E2 5b 6
47 Hara-Kiri HVS 5a ** 207
48 Hara-Kiri Direct HVS 5b 36
49 Beanland HVS 5a 8
50 Long Bow VS 4c ** 302
51 Bowstring HVS 5a * 134
52 The Bitter End HVS 5c * 31
53 A Harder Start E1 6a 10
54 The End VS 5a * 84
55 The Very End
-
VD 42
56 The Girdle Traverse
-
none 4c * 11
57 Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c * 4
58 Dave left hand * VE 4a 3
59 Dave right hand * VE 4c 3
60 Three Aretes - LH * f4+ 2
61 The Three Aretes - Centre * f4+ 3
62 The Three Aretes - RH * f4+ 3
63 The Three Aretes - 3rd Arete LH * f2 3
64 The Three Aretes - 3rd Arete RH * f2 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier