Climbs 281
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 261m a.s.l
Faces all

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Michael Adams on Four Door Dostoyevsky (8a+) on The Cornice in Chee Dale © Alan James

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Access Advice

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Chee Tor East
2 The Glorious Ninth
-
E3 5c ** 5
3 Flying Circus
-
E2 5b 1
4 Too Tame For The Trouble 7a 5
5 White Life
-
E4 6a ** 4
6 Blanc de Blancs
-
E4 6a  
7 Kumquat 8b ** 3
8 The white knuckle Shuffle 8a+ ** 2
9 White Out
-
E4 6a * 1
10 White Death
-
E4 6a  
11 Truffles 7c * 3
  Chee Tor
13 Scratch Your Eyes Out
-
E3 6a  
14 Shake Hands With the Octopus
-
E5 6c  
15 White Gold 7a *** 96
16 Nobody's Hero E5 6b *  
17 The Myrmidon E5 6b ** 7
18 Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
-
E4 6a  
19 Koroblin
-
E1 5b 1
20 The Ape Escape
-
E4 6a  
21 The Ogre 8a *** 10
22 Igor 7c *  
23 Kriklet's Cancer
-
E6 6b  
24 Tec
-
E1 5b 5
25 Oblomov
-
E2 5b 11
26 Rasputin
-
E1 5a,5b 1
27 Two Sunspots E2 5c ** 165
28 Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a ** 55
29 Midnight at the Oasis E6 6b  
30 Blind Alleys
-
E4 5c 9
31 Sergeyenna E1 5b ** 252
32 Heart of Darkness E3 5c * 60
33 Hergiani E2 5b * 204
34 Tropic of Cancer E1 5a,5c,  
35 Absent Friends E3 5c ** 210
36 Nostradamus E1 5b * 260
37 A Widespread Lack of Imagination
-
E3 6a 1
38 Rave On E3 5c ** 133
39 Boobs 8a ** 7
40 Boo 7c+ ** 4
41 Tequila Mockingbird E6 6b *** 22
42 Basic Channel 8a *  
43 The Freeman Trap 6c+  
44 Mantrap 7b+  
45 The Poverty Trap 7b  
46 The Freedom Trap E5 6b  
47 Eyes of Fire E6 6c ** 1
48 Mortlock's Arete E4 6a *** 142
49 Books on the Bonfire
-
E6 6b  
50 The Golden Mile E5 6b *** 49
51 The Dream Mile E5 6b ** 1
52 Apocalypse E4 6a *** 66
53 Alfresco HVS 5b 45
54 One Night E1 5b * 10
55 Suddenly E5 6b 4
56 Less Than Zero E3 5c * 63
57 Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
-
E3 5c, 6b ** 3
58 Meditation E1 5b *** 414
59 Valentine (pitch 1) E1 5b * 82
60 Valentine/One Night Connection
-
E1 5a, 5b * 8
61 Approaching E3 5c ** 88
62 The Messiah
-
E4 6a 3
63 Valentine
-
E3 5a, 5b * 14
64 Ceramic E4 5c *** 116
65 Ceramic Extension E5 6a *** 22
66 Ceramic Extension Direct E6 6a ** 1
67 Terrorcotta E6 6c * 1
68 Laughing E6 6b ** 2
69 Splintered Perspex E3 6a ** 118
70 A Nasty Farming Accident 7b * 1
71 Great Central Route E2 5c ** 182
72 Of Youth E3 5c * 46
73 Highway 57
-
E1 5b 5
74 Shake E1 5b * 68
75 Two Generations E6 6b  
76 Captain Ahab 7b+  
77 Body Line E4 6a * 4
78 Autobahn E5 6b ** 30
79 Lily Street E5 6b 2
80 Queer Street E3 6a *** 132
81 42nd Street E3 5c ** 170
82 Pheasant Plucker
-
E2  
83 Duel in the Sun E5 6b ** 3
84 Moby Dick 7c *  
85 Theology 7c **  
86 Sunny Goodge Street E2 5b * 106
87 Hatred E4 5c 6
88 The Last Laugh
-
HVS 5a 4
89 Pink Panther
-
E5 6a 2
90 Grinning Chimney
-
HVS 5b 4
91 Hooligans
-
E3 5c 1
92 Match of the Day E2 5c * 82
93 Goal of the Month E3 5c * 90
94 The Chopper VS 5a * 94
95 Sleepwalkers
-
HVS 5b 8
Climb name Grade
96 Pleasant Dreams
-
HVS 5c 5
97 Rape E2 5b * 71
98 Gulle Gulle Groove VS 4c * 117
99 Flycatcher E1 5b * 90
100 Snap Dragon E5 6b ** 20
101 Leering Wall HVS 5b * 150
102 Dagenham Dave E1 5b 36
103 Clive's Route VS 4c 28
104 Switch
-
E3 6a 3
105 Changeling E4 6a 1
106 Doggone Groove VS 4b 99
107 What Aches?
-
E4 6a 3
108 Otaix
-
E1 5b 8
109 Negative Earth
-
E1 5b 1
110 Chee Tor Girdle VS 5a *** 396
111 Puppets
-
E1 5b 9
  Dog's Dinner Buttress
113 Dogfight 7c+  
114 Scooby Snacks 7a+ * 15
115 Shake the Tail 6b 20
116 Wag the Dog 6c 22
117 Tail Shake
-
6b * 9
118 Turkey Lurking 7b+ * 7
119 Baffled by Water Wings
-
E4 6b 2
120 Learning to Swim E4 6b 1
121 My Dog Dill E5 6a *  
122 Go Cat 7a ** 21
123 Dog Dirt 7c 5
124 In the Drink 6c * 16
125 Cat Lick 7b 4
126 Little Curver E1 1
127 The Dog Complex 6c+ * 4
128 Can't Wait a Dogone Minute 6c 1
129 Woof, Woof, Woof 6b 8
  Dogs Bouldering
131 Pedigree Chum 8c+ *** 8
132 Finest Pedigree 9a+ ***  
133 Dogs Dinner cross through problem f7A+ ** 4
134 Sidepulls sitstart f7A+ 1
135 Dinner time f7B * 1
136 α (Alpha) f7C ** 1
  The Cornice
138 Ophelias Lobelia
-
7b+  
139 Forehead Trombone 7b+ * 8
140 Trombone Practice 8a 2
141 Sharp Practice 8a+ **  
142 Masculine Power Trip 8a+ ** 1
143 Mescaline Power Trip 8a **  
144 Wright-On (1pt Aid) 7c+ * 2
145 Wright On (Free) 8a * 1
146 Wright to Left 7c ** 1
147 Taylor Made 7c ** 50
148 Feminine Ego Trip 8a 3
149 Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish) 8a 1
150 Feminine ego trip - clematis
-
8a * 1
151 Clematis 8b ** 4
152 Nemesis 8a+ *** 31
153 Bricktop 8b *** 13
154 Monumental Armblaster 8a+ *** 10
155 Malcolm X 8b+ ** 1
156 Malcolm Armblaster 8b ** 1
157 Last Eggs Before the M1 7c+ 2
158 Gran Techo 8b *** 9
159 Techno Prisoners 8b+ *** 3
160 The Jug Jockey 7c+ *** 51
161 Easy Rider 8a * 8
162 Bullheart 8b+ ** 1
163 Dreadnaught 8c ***  
164 Dreadnot 8b+ *** 5
165 The Roof Warrior 8a *** 80
166 Cry of Despair 7c *** 191
167 Rapid City 8a * 7
168 That was the River 7b+ ** 97
169 Streamline 7c+ 1
170 Tributary 8a+ 1
171 This is the Sea 7c+ * 64
172 Old Man River 7b ** 181
173 Have you seen the Old Men who climb the crags of Chee Dale 7a+ 2
174 Zippy's Direct Finish 7c 52
175 Dirty Old Man 8a 5
176 The Naive and Sentimental Lover 7c ** 28
177 Up the River Without a Paddle 7a ** 252
178 Snails of the Riverbank 7b ** 111
179 The Spiders from Mars 6b 159
180 The Monday Club 7a+ 12
181 Trampled Underfoot 7a * 20
182 Gardener's Question Time 7a * 23
183 Rue Morgue
-
6c 35
184 The Goldfish
-
7a+ * 3
185 After the Goldfish 7a+ * 13
186 Crowd Control 7c * 12
187 Une Crime Passionel E4 6a ** 72
188 Crime Control 7a+ * 7
189 A Bolted Power Problem 7b * 13
190 A Basic Power Problem E6 6b 1
Climb name Grade
191 Fey E4 5c * 18
192 War Memorial 6c * 397
193 Succubus 7b+ ** 71
194 Shazam E4 6a * 10
195 Martial Music 7a ** 490
196 Martial Call 6c+ * 37
197 Clarion Call 7a *** 586
198 Poppy Fields 7b+ * 8
199 Armistice Day 7a+ ** 345
200 Whose Line is it Anyway? 7a+ *** 357
201 Big Store E5 6b * 8
202 Egyptian Bizarre 7a+ * 94
203 Big Zipper 7b ** 318
204 Beelzebub 7b+ * 18
205 Bored of the Lies 7b+ *** 233
206 Bored into Beelzebub 7b+ * 8
207 Ouijaboard 8a ** 51
208 Four Door Dostoyevsky 8a+ ** 10
209 Powerplant 8a *** 139
210 Powerpants 8a * 4
211 Devonshire Arms 8b ** 10
212 Powerarms 8b * 2
213 Devonshire army 8a+ * 2
214 K3 8a+ *** 60
215 K5 8b * 5
216 K2 8b+ *  
217 42 8b *  
218 32 8b+ ** 6
219 The Anatomy Act 8b+ ** 1
220 R'n'P 8a+ *** 26
221 Body Snatchers 8b ** 4
222 Snatch 8b ** 5
223 Barney Ragin' 8b+ ** 4
224 Love Amongst the Butterflies 8b *** 15
225 Asia Shadow Player 8b **  
226 Somehow Super 8c *  
227 Unleashing the Wild Physique Direct 8a+ ** 2
228 Unleashing the Wild Physique 8a *** 55
229 Cosmopolitan 7b+ ** 179
230 Cordless Madness 7c ** 132
231 Mandy 7b+ * 60
232 Flowers in the Dirt 7b * 11
233 The Third Order 7b ** 39
234 Loco 7b+ * 12
235 Too Pumpy for Grumpy 7b+ 13
236 Further Adventures in Greendale 6c+ * 381
237 Old Man's Gambit E2 5c 1
238 The Corniceman 7a+ ** 190
239 Jelly Fingers
-
HVS 5a  
240 Vandal
-
VS 4c 1
241 Whitebeam
-
E1 5c  
242 Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
-
HS 4a  
243 Ezekiel Stool
-
E1 5b  
244 Um Bongo
-
E4 6b  
245 Led Up the Garden Path
-
E1 5b  
246 Flash Harry
-
E4 5c  
247 Too Jugless for Douglas
-
E4 6b 1
248 Subversive
-
E2 5b  
249 Fibrin
-
VS 4c  
250 Rinky Dinky
-
E1 5c 1
251 The 'too small for the tall' Wall
-
E5 6b  
252 Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
-
7b+  
253 Skin-flick
-
7c+  
  Rhubarb Buttress
255 The Way of the Gone Wives 6b+ 4
256 Custard Pie in yer Eye 6c 1
257 Cry Havoc 6c 2
258 Fallout Zone 6c 3
259 Gaseous Exchange 6c+ * 6
260 Chemical Weapons 7a * 19
261 Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb 6b+ * 57
262 Semolina Sunday 6c+ 3
263 The Bee's Knees E1 5a 2
264 A Laugh a Minute
-
E5 6a  
265 The Garlic Twist 6b+ * 38
266 Brief Camouflage 6c * 71
267 The Day of the Long Knives 7b+ 28
268 Feline Fine 6c * 52
269 Fat Ginger Cat 7a+ * 28
270 Turbo-charged Monster Mouse 7a * 32
271 Thrash Your Woodie 7b * 3
272 Me Tarzan 7b+ 2
273 De Vine 8a ** 1
274 Zebedee Visits the Clinic E6 6b  
275 Blue-arsed Fly
-
E6 6c  
276 The Rainmaker 7b+  
277 Bloodworm
-
E3 6a 1
278 Blood Lust E2 5c * 7
279 Bad Blood E5 6a 1
280 Blood Transfusion E5 6b  
281 Lady's Finger 7a+ * 3
282 The European Female 7a * 23
283 Moonflower
-
E4 6a  
284 Naiad
-
E1 5b  
285 Nip the Nippon
-
E2 5b 1

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