Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B
Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.
The revised access routes are:
Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.
The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).
Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.
Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.
Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil. If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.
Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
|In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!|
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
|The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.|
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04