Climbs 269
Rocktype Limestone

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Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

  • Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.
  • The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).
  • Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.
  • Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.
  • Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.
  • Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.


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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chee Tor East 
2The Glorious Ninth
E3 5c **4
3Flying Circus
E2 5b 1
4Too Tame For The Trouble7a 5
5White Life
E4 6a **3
6Blanc de Blancs
E4 6a  
7Kumquat8b **3
8White Out
E4 6a *1
9White Death
E4 6a  
10Truffles7c *4
 Chee Tor 
12Scratch Your Eyes Out
E3 6a  
13Shake Hands With the Octopus
E5 6c  
14White Gold7a ***57
15Nobody's HeroE5 6b *1
16What Aches?
E3 5c  
17The MyrmidonE5 6b **5
18Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
E4 6a  
E1 5b 2
E2 6a 1
21The Ape Escape
E4 6a  
22The Ogre8a ***10
23Igor7c * 
24Kriklet's Cancer
E6 6b  
E1 5b 6
E2 5b 10
E1 5a,5b 2
28Two SunspotsE2 5c **118
29Midnight Summer DreamE5 6a **49
30Midnight at the OasisE6 6b  
31Blind Alleys
E4 5c 7
32SergeyennaE1 5b **187
33Heart of DarknessE3 5c *48
34HergianiE2 5b *161
35Tropic of CancerE1 5a,5c,  
36Absent FriendsE3 5c **182
37NostradamusE1 5b *197
38A Widespread Lack of Imagination
E3 6a 1
39Rave OnE3 5c **115
40Boobs8a **7
41Boo7c+ **3
42Tequila MockingbirdE6 6b ***18
43Basic Channel8a * 
44The Freeman Trap6c+  
46The Poverty Trap7b  
47The Freedom TrapE5 6b  
48Eyes of FireE6 6c **1
49Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***123
50Books on the Bonfire
E6 6b  
51The Golden MileE5 6b ***45
52The Dream MileE5 6b ** 
53ApocalypseE4 6a ***62
54AlfrescoHVS 5b 36
55One NightE1 5b *11
56SuddenlyE5 6b 4
57Less Than ZeroE3 5c *47
58Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
E3 5c, 6b **3
59MeditationE1 5b ***310
60Valentine (pitch 1)E1 5b *61
61Valentine/One Night Connection
E1 5a, 5b *5
62ApproachingE3 5c **66
63The Messiah
E4 6a 2
E3 5a, 5b *14
65CeramicE4 5c ***96
66Ceramic ExtensionE5 6a ***14
67TerrorcottaE6 6c *1
68LaughingE6 6b **2
69Splintered PerspexE3 6a **109
70A Nasty Farming Accident7b *1
71Great Central RouteE2 5c **158
72Of YouthE3 5c *45
73Highway 57
E1 5b 5
74ShakeE1 5b *55
75Two GenerationsE6 6b  
76Captain Ahab7b+  
77Body LineE4 6a *4
78AutobahnE5 6b **22
79Lily StreetE5 6b 2
80Queer StreetE3 6a ***109
8142nd StreetE3 5c **142
82Pheasant Plucker
83Duel in the SunE5 6b **3
84Moby Dick7c * 
85Theology7c ** 
86Sunny Goodge StreetE2 5b *87
87HatredE4 5c 5
88The Last Laugh
HVS 5a 4
89Pink Panther
E5 6a 3
90Grinning Chimney
HVS 5b 5
E3 5c  
92Match of the DayE2 5c *69
93Goal of the MonthE3 5c *72
94The ChopperVS 5a *74
HVS 5b 8
96Pleasant Dreams
HVS 5c 6
97RapeE2 5b *64
98Gulle Gulle GrooveVS 4c *90
99FlycatcherE1 5b *74
100Snap DragonE5 6b **16
101Leering WallHVS 5b *122
102Dagenham DaveE1 5b 31
103Clive's RouteVS 4c 25
E3 6a 2
105ChangelingE4 6a 3
106Doggone GrooveVS 4b 70
107What Aches?
E4 6a 4
E1 5b 8
109Negative Earth
E1 5b 1
110Chee Tor GirdleVS 5a ***344
E1 5b 6
 Dog's Dinner Buttress 
114Scooby Snacks7a+ *9
115Shake the Tail6b 5
116Wag the Dog6c 4
117Tail Shake
6b *2
118Turkey Lurking7b+ *5
119Baffled by Water Wings
E4 6b 3
120Learning to SwimE4 6b 1
121My Dog DillE5 6a * 
122Go Cat7a **14
123Dog Dirt7c 3
124In the Drink6c *12
125Cat Lick7b 4
126Little CurverE1  
 Dogs Bouldering 
128Pedigree Chum8c+ *** 
129Finest Pedigree9a+ *** 
130Dogs Dinner cross through problemf7A+ **2
131Sidepulls sitstartf7A+ 1
132Dinner timef7B *1
133α (Alpha)f7C **1
 The Cornice 
135Ophelias Lobelia
7b+ 1
136Forehead Trombone7b+ *7
137Trombone Practice8a 2
138Sharp Practice8a+ ** 
139Masculine Power Trip8a+ ** 
140Mescaline Power Trip8a **3
141Wright-On7c+ *1
142Wright to Left7c **1
143Taylor Made7c **29
144Feminine Ego Trip8a 5
145Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish)8a 1
146Feminine ego trip - clematis
8a *1
147Nemesis8a+ ***28
148Bricktop8b ***20
149Clematis8b **3
150Monumental Armblaster8a+ ***17
151Malcolm X8b+ ** 
152Malcolm Armblaster8b **1
153Last Eggs Before the M17c+ 3
154Gran Techo8b ***8
155Techno Prisoners8b+ ***3
156The Jug Jockey7c+ ***39
157Easy Rider7c+ *4
158Dreadnaught8c *** 
159The Roof Warrior8a ***64
160Cry of Despair7c ***146
161Rapid City8a *9
162That was the River7b+ **64
163Streamline7c+ 1
164Tributary8a+ 1
165This is the Sea7c+ *39
166Old Man River7b **118
167Zippy's Direct Finish7b+ 27
168Dirty Old Man7c+ 6
169The Naive and Sentimental Lover7b+ **17
170Up the River Without a Paddle6c+ **142
171Snails of the Riverbank7b **68
172The Spiders from Mars6b 70
173The Monday Club7a+ 8
174Trampled Underfoot7a *13
175Gardener's Question Time7a *5
176Rue Morgue
E4 6a 10
177The Goldfish7a+ *1
178After the Goldfish
7a+ *7
179Crowd Control7c *8
180Une Crime PassionelE4 6a **47
181A Basic Power ProblemE6 6b  
182FeyE4 5c *11
183War Memorial6c *267
184Succubus7b+ **52
185ShazamE4 6a *8
186Martial Music7a **335
187Martial Call6c+ *16
188Clarion Call7a ***420
189Poppy Fields7b+ *8
190Armistice Day7a+ **219
191Whose Line is it Anyway?7a+ ***251
192Big StoreE5 6b *5
193Egyptian BizarreE5 6b *8
194Big Zipper7b **181
195Beelzebub7b+ *10
196Bored of the Lies7b+ ***171
197Bored into Beelzebub7b+ *4
198Ouijaboard8a **27
199Four Door Dostoyevsky8a+ **9
200Powerplant8a ***135
201Powerpants8a *4
202Devonshire Arms8a+ **10
203Powerarms8b *2
204Devonshire army8a+ *2
205K38a+ ***45
206K58b *8
207K28b+ * 
208428b * 
209328b+ **4
210R'n'P8a+ ***28
211Body Snatchers8b **1
212Snatch8b **2
213Barney Ragin'8b+ **7
214Love Amongst the Butterflies8b ***9
215Asia Shadow Player8b ** 
216Somehow Super8c * 
217Unleashing the Wild Physique8a ***50
218Cosmopolitan7b+ **103
219Cordless Madness7c **92
220Mandy7b+ *43
221Flowers in the Dirt7b *9
222The Third Order7b **32
223Loco7b+ *5
224Too Pumpy for Grumpy7b+ 10
225Further Adventures in Greendale6c *271
226Old Man's GambitE2 5c 2
227The Corniceman7a+ **114
228Jelly Fingers
HVS 5a  
VS 4c 1
E1 5c  
231Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
HS 4a  
232Ezekiel Stool
E1 5b  
233Um Bongo
E4 6b 1
234Led Up the Garden Path
E1 5b  
235Flash Harry
E4 5c  
236Too Jugless for Douglas
E4 6b 2
E2 5b  
VS 4c  
239Rinky Dinky
E1 5c 1
240The 'too small for the tall' Wall
E5 6b  
241Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
7b+ 1
 Rhubarb Buttress 
244The Way of the Gone Wives6b+ 3
245Custard Pie in yer Eye6c 1
246Cry Havoc6c 1
247Fallout Zone6c 2
248Gaseous Exchange6c+ *2
249Chemical Weapons7a *8
250Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb6b+ *21
251Semolina Sunday6c+ 2
252The Bee's KneesE1 5a 2
253A Laugh a Minute
E5 6a  
254The Garlic Twist6b+ *24
255Brief Camouflage6c *13
256The Day of the Long KnivesE6 6b  
257Feline Fine6c *11
258Fat Ginger Cat7a+ *5
259Turbo-charged Monster Mouse7a *6
260Thrash Your Woodie7b *4
261Me Tarzan7b+ 2
262De Vine8a **4
263Zebedee Visits the ClinicE6 6b  
264Blue-arsed Fly
E6 6c  
265The Rainmaker7b+ 1
E3 6a 2
267Blood LustE2 5c *6
268Bad BloodE5 6a 1
269Blood TransfusionE5 6b  
270Lady's Finger7a+ * 
271The European Female7a *11
E4 6a  
E1 5b  
274Nip the Nippon
E2 5b 1
275The white knuckle Shuffle *8a+ **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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