Climbs 269
Rocktype Limestone

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Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

  • Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.
  • The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).
  • Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.
  • Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.
  • Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.
  • Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Chee Tor East
2 The Glorious Ninth
-
E3 5c ** 5
3 Flying Circus
-
E2 5b 1
4 Too Tame For The Trouble 7a 5
5 White Life
-
E4 6a ** 4
6 Blanc de Blancs
-
E4 6a  
7 Kumquat 8b ** 2
8 The white knuckle Shuffle 8a+ ** 2
9 White Out
-
E4 6a * 1
10 White Death
-
E4 6a  
11 Truffles 7c * 3
  Chee Tor
13 Scratch Your Eyes Out
-
E3 6a  
14 Shake Hands With the Octopus
-
E5 6c  
15 White Gold 7a *** 69
16 Nobody's Hero E5 6b * 1
17 What Aches?
-
E3 5c  
18 The Myrmidon E5 6b ** 5
19 Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
-
E4 6a  
20 Koroblin
-
E1 5b 2
21 Switch
-
E2 6a 1
22 The Ape Escape
-
E4 6a  
23 The Ogre 8a *** 5
24 Igor 7c *  
25 Kriklet's Cancer
-
E6 6b  
26 Tec
-
E1 5b 6
27 Oblomov
-
E2 5b 10
28 Rasputin
-
E1 5a,5b 2
29 Two Sunspots E2 5c ** 129
30 Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a ** 55
31 Midnight at the Oasis E6 6b  
32 Blind Alleys
-
E4 5c 8
33 Sergeyenna E1 5b ** 194
34 Heart of Darkness E3 5c * 49
35 Hergiani E2 5b * 166
36 Tropic of Cancer E1 5a,5c,  
37 Absent Friends E3 5c ** 172
38 Nostradamus E1 5b * 202
39 A Widespread Lack of Imagination
-
E3 6a 1
40 Rave On E3 5c ** 124
41 Boobs 8a ** 4
42 Boo 7c+ ** 2
43 Tequila Mockingbird E6 6b *** 19
44 Basic Channel 8a *  
45 The Freeman Trap 6c+  
46 Mantrap 7b+  
47 The Poverty Trap 7b  
48 The Freedom Trap E5 6b  
49 Eyes of Fire E6 6c ** 1
50 Mortlock's Arete E4 6a *** 128
51 Books on the Bonfire
-
E6 6b  
52 The Golden Mile E5 6b *** 50
53 The Dream Mile E5 6b ** 1
54 Apocalypse E4 6a *** 68
55 Alfresco HVS 5b 37
56 One Night E1 5b * 11
57 Suddenly E5 6b 4
58 Less Than Zero E3 5c * 52
59 Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
-
E3 5c, 6b ** 3
60 Meditation E1 5b *** 324
61 Valentine (pitch 1) E1 5b * 66
62 Valentine/One Night Connection
-
E1 5a, 5b * 5
63 Approaching E3 5c ** 66
64 The Messiah
-
E4 6a 2
65 Valentine
-
E3 5a, 5b * 15
66 Ceramic E4 5c *** 103
67 Ceramic Extension E5 6a *** 13
68 Terrorcotta E6 6c * 1
69 Laughing E6 6b ** 3
70 Splintered Perspex E3 6a ** 115
71 A Nasty Farming Accident 7b * 1
72 Great Central Route E2 5c ** 154
73 Of Youth E3 5c * 48
74 Highway 57
-
E1 5b 5
75 Shake E1 5b * 56
76 Two Generations E6 6b  
77 Captain Ahab 7b+  
78 Body Line E4 6a * 4
79 Autobahn E5 6b ** 25
80 Lily Street E5 6b 2
81 Queer Street E3 6a *** 116
82 42nd Street E3 5c ** 149
83 Pheasant Plucker
-
E2  
84 Duel in the Sun E5 6b ** 3
85 Moby Dick 7c *  
86 Theology 7c **  
87 Sunny Goodge Street E2 5b * 88
88 Hatred E4 5c 5
89 The Last Laugh
-
HVS 5a 5
90 Pink Panther
-
E5 6a 3
91 Grinning Chimney
-
HVS 5b 5
92 Hooligans
-
E3 5c 1
93 Match of the Day E2 5c * 72
94 Goal of the Month E3 5c * 71
95 The Chopper VS 5a * 73
96 Sleepwalkers
-
HVS 5b 9
97 Pleasant Dreams
-
HVS 5c 6
98 Rape E2 5b * 64
99 Gulle Gulle Groove VS 4c * 88
100 Flycatcher E1 5b * 77
101 Snap Dragon E5 6b ** 17
102 Leering Wall HVS 5b * 123
103 Dagenham Dave E1 5b 31
104 Clive's Route VS 4c 25
105 Switch
-
E3 6a 2
106 Changeling E4 6a 2
107 Doggone Groove VS 4b 71
108 What Aches?
-
E4 6a 4
109 Otaix
-
E1 5b 8
110 Negative Earth
-
E1 5b 1
111 Chee Tor Girdle VS 5a *** 350
112 Puppets
-
E1 5b 6
  Dog's Dinner Buttress
114 Dogfight 7c+  
115 Scooby Snacks 7a+ * 11
116 Shake the Tail 6b 7
117 Wag the Dog 6c 8
118 Tail Shake
-
6b * 3
119 Turkey Lurking 7b+ * 7
120 Baffled by Water Wings
-
E4 6b 3
121 Learning to Swim E4 6b 1
122 My Dog Dill E5 6a *  
123 Go Cat 7a ** 16
124 Dog Dirt 7c 5
125 In the Drink 6c * 15
126 Cat Lick 7b 4
127 Little Curver E1  
  Dogs Bouldering
129 Pedigree Chum 8c+ ***  
130 Finest Pedigree 9a+ ***  
131 Dogs Dinner cross through problem f7A+ ** 3
132 Sidepulls sitstart f7A+ 1
133 Dinner time f7B * 1
134 α (Alpha) f7C ** 1
  The Cornice
136 Ophelias Lobelia
-
7b+ 1
137 Forehead Trombone 7b+ * 9
138 Trombone Practice 8a 2
139 Sharp Practice 8a+ **  
140 Masculine Power Trip 8a+ **  
141 Mescaline Power Trip 8a ** 1
142 Wright-On 7c+ * 1
143 Wright to Left 7c ** 1
144 Taylor Made 7c ** 28
145 Feminine Ego Trip 8a 4
146 Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish) 8a 1
147 Feminine ego trip - clematis
-
8a * 1
148 Nemesis 8a+ *** 21
149 Bricktop 8b *** 11
150 Clematis 8b ** 3
151 Monumental Armblaster 8a+ *** 7
152 Malcolm X 8b+ **  
153 Malcolm Armblaster 8b ** 1
154 Last Eggs Before the M1 7c+ 3
155 Gran Techo 8b *** 8
156 Techno Prisoners 8b+ *** 3
157 The Jug Jockey 7c+ *** 29
158 Easy Rider 7c+ * 4
159 Dreadnaught 8c ***  
160 The Roof Warrior 8a *** 50
161 Cry of Despair 7c *** 155
162 Rapid City 8a * 7
163 That was the River 7b+ ** 62
164 Streamline 7c+ 1
165 Tributary 8a+ 1
166 This is the Sea 7c+ * 39
167 Old Man River 7b ** 115
168 Zippy's Direct Finish 7b+ 26
169 Dirty Old Man 7c+ 5
170 The Naive and Sentimental Lover 7b+ ** 18
171 Up the River Without a Paddle 6c+ ** 141
172 Snails of the Riverbank 7b ** 63
173 The Spiders from Mars 6b 69
174 The Monday Club 7a+ 8
175 Trampled Underfoot 7a * 13
176 Gardener's Question Time 7a * 4
177 Rue Morgue
-
E4 6a 11
178 The Goldfish 7a+ * 1
179 After the Goldfish
-
7a+ * 7
180 Crowd Control 7c * 8
181 Une Crime Passionel E4 6a ** 49
182 A Basic Power Problem E6 6b  
183 Fey E4 5c * 11
184 War Memorial 6c * 275
185 Succubus 7b+ ** 49
186 Shazam E4 6a * 9
187 Martial Music 7a ** 355
188 Martial Call 6c+ * 20
189 Clarion Call 7a *** 458
190 Poppy Fields 7b+ * 8
191 Armistice Day 7a+ ** 225
192 Whose Line is it Anyway? 7a+ *** 243
193 Big Store E5 6b * 6
194 Egyptian Bizarre E5 6b * 9
195 Big Zipper 7b ** 188
196 Beelzebub 7b+ * 10
197 Bored of the Lies 7b+ *** 177
198 Bored into Beelzebub 7b+ * 4
199 Ouijaboard 8a ** 28
200 Four Door Dostoyevsky 8a+ ** 8
201 Powerplant 8a *** 102
202 Powerpants 8a * 4
203 Devonshire Arms 8a+ ** 7
204 Powerarms 8b * 2
205 Devonshire army 8a+ * 2
206 K3 8a+ *** 37
207 K5 8b * 8
208 K2 8b+ *  
209 42 8b *  
210 32 8b+ ** 4
211 R'n'P 8a+ *** 20
212 Body Snatchers 8b ** 1
213 Snatch 8b ** 2
214 Barney Ragin' 8b+ ** 4
215 Love Amongst the Butterflies 8b *** 7
216 Asia Shadow Player 8b **  
217 Somehow Super 8c *  
218 Unleashing the Wild Physique 8a *** 53
219 Cosmopolitan 7b+ ** 126
220 Cordless Madness 7c ** 106
221 Mandy 7b+ * 49
222 Flowers in the Dirt 7b * 8
223 The Third Order 7b ** 34
224 Loco 7b+ * 5
225 Too Pumpy for Grumpy 7b+ 12
226 Further Adventures in Greendale 6c * 292
227 Old Man's Gambit E2 5c 2
228 The Corniceman 7a+ ** 128
229 Jelly Fingers
-
HVS 5a  
230 Vandal
-
VS 4c 1
231 Whitebeam
-
E1 5c  
232 Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
-
HS 4a  
233 Ezekiel Stool
-
E1 5b  
234 Um Bongo
-
E4 6b 1
235 Led Up the Garden Path
-
E1 5b  
236 Flash Harry
-
E4 5c  
237 Too Jugless for Douglas
-
E4 6b 2
238 Subversive
-
E2 5b  
239 Fibrin
-
VS 4c  
240 Rinky Dinky
-
E1 5c 1
241 The 'too small for the tall' Wall
-
E5 6b  
242 Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
-
7b+ 1
243 Skin-flick
-
7c+  
  Rhubarb Buttress
245 The Way of the Gone Wives 6b+ 3
246 Custard Pie in yer Eye 6c 1
247 Cry Havoc 6c 2
248 Fallout Zone 6c 3
249 Gaseous Exchange 6c+ * 3
250 Chemical Weapons 7a * 9
251 Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb 6b+ * 23
252 Semolina Sunday 6c+ 2
253 The Bee's Knees E1 5a 2
254 A Laugh a Minute
-
E5 6a  
255 The Garlic Twist 6b+ * 24
256 Brief Camouflage 6c * 19
257 The Day of the Long Knives E6 6b 4
258 Feline Fine 6c * 12
259 Fat Ginger Cat 7a+ * 9
260 Turbo-charged Monster Mouse 7a * 13
261 Thrash Your Woodie 7b * 4
262 Me Tarzan 7b+ 2
263 De Vine 8a ** 1
264 Zebedee Visits the Clinic E6 6b  
265 Blue-arsed Fly
-
E6 6c  
266 The Rainmaker 7b+ 1
267 Bloodworm
-
E3 6a 2
268 Blood Lust E2 5c * 7
269 Bad Blood E5 6a 2
270 Blood Transfusion E5 6b  
271 Lady's Finger 7a+ * 3
272 The European Female 7a * 14
273 Moonflower
-
E4 6a  
274 Naiad
-
E1 5b  
275 Nip the Nippon
-
E2 5b 1

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