Climbs 281
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 261m a.s.l
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Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Access Advice

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Chee Tor East
2 The Glorious Ninth
-
E3 5c ** 5
3 Flying Circus
-
E2 5b 1
4 Too Tame For The Trouble 7a 5
5 White Life
-
E4 6a ** 4
6 Blanc de Blancs
-
E4 6a  
7 Kumquat 8b ** 3
8 The white knuckle Shuffle 8a+ ** 2
9 White Out
-
E4 6a * 1
10 White Death
-
E4 6a  
11 Truffles 7c * 3
  Chee Tor
13 Scratch Your Eyes Out
-
E3 6a  
14 Shake Hands With the Octopus
-
E5 6c  
15 White Gold 7a *** 89
16 Nobody's Hero E5 6b *  
17 What Aches?
-
E3 5c  
18 The Myrmidon E5 6b ** 6
19 Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
-
E4 6a  
20 Koroblin
-
E1 5b 1
21 Switch
-
E2 6a 1
22 The Ape Escape
-
E4 6a  
23 The Ogre 8a *** 10
24 Igor 7c *  
25 Kriklet's Cancer
-
E6 6b  
26 Tec
-
E1 5b 5
27 Oblomov
-
E2 5b 10
28 Rasputin
-
E1 5a,5b 1
29 Two Sunspots E2 5c ** 151
30 Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a ** 53
31 Midnight at the Oasis E6 6b  
32 Blind Alleys
-
E4 5c 9
33 Sergeyenna E1 5b ** 230
34 Heart of Darkness E3 5c * 54
35 Hergiani E2 5b * 192
36 Tropic of Cancer E1 5a,5c,  
37 Absent Friends E3 5c ** 197
38 Nostradamus E1 5b * 238
39 A Widespread Lack of Imagination
-
E3 6a 1
40 Rave On E3 5c ** 128
41 Boobs 8a ** 6
42 Boo 7c+ ** 3
43 Tequila Mockingbird E6 6b *** 17
44 Basic Channel 8a *  
45 The Freeman Trap 6c+  
46 Mantrap 7b+  
47 The Poverty Trap 7b  
48 The Freedom Trap E5 6b  
49 Eyes of Fire E6 6c ** 1
50 Mortlock's Arete E4 6a *** 136
51 Books on the Bonfire
-
E6 6b  
52 The Golden Mile E5 6b *** 48
53 The Dream Mile E5 6b ** 1
54 Apocalypse E4 6a *** 65
55 Alfresco HVS 5b 43
56 One Night E1 5b * 10
57 Suddenly E5 6b 3
58 Less Than Zero E3 5c * 56
59 Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
-
E3 5c, 6b ** 3
60 Meditation E1 5b *** 381
61 Valentine (pitch 1) E1 5b * 75
62 Valentine/One Night Connection
-
E1 5a, 5b * 8
63 Approaching E3 5c ** 80
64 The Messiah
-
E4 6a 3
65 Valentine
-
E3 5a, 5b * 14
66 Ceramic E4 5c *** 113
67 Ceramic Extension E5 6a *** 21
68 Ceramic Extension Direct E6 6a ** 1
69 Terrorcotta E6 6c * 1
70 Laughing E6 6b ** 2
71 Splintered Perspex E3 6a ** 115
72 A Nasty Farming Accident 7b * 1
73 Great Central Route E2 5c ** 171
74 Of Youth E3 5c * 44
75 Highway 57
-
E1 5b 5
76 Shake E1 5b * 66
77 Two Generations E6 6b  
78 Captain Ahab 7b+  
79 Body Line E4 6a * 4
80 Autobahn E5 6b ** 29
81 Lily Street E5 6b 2
82 Queer Street E3 6a *** 125
83 42nd Street E3 5c ** 157
84 Pheasant Plucker
-
E2  
85 Duel in the Sun E5 6b ** 3
86 Moby Dick 7c *  
87 Theology 7c **  
88 Sunny Goodge Street E2 5b * 99
89 Hatred E4 5c 5
90 The Last Laugh
-
HVS 5a 4
91 Pink Panther
-
E5 6a 2
92 Grinning Chimney
-
HVS 5b 4
93 Hooligans
-
E3 5c 1
94 Match of the Day E2 5c * 78
95 Goal of the Month E3 5c * 85
96 The Chopper VS 5a * 83
Climb name Grade
97 Sleepwalkers
-
HVS 5b 8
98 Pleasant Dreams
-
HVS 5c 5
99 Rape E2 5b * 69
100 Gulle Gulle Groove VS 4c * 111
101 Flycatcher E1 5b * 85
102 Snap Dragon E5 6b ** 19
103 Leering Wall HVS 5b * 134
104 Dagenham Dave E1 5b 33
105 Clive's Route VS 4c 26
106 Switch
-
E3 6a 2
107 Changeling E4 6a 1
108 Doggone Groove VS 4b 86
109 What Aches?
-
E4 6a 3
110 Otaix
-
E1 5b 8
111 Negative Earth
-
E1 5b 1
112 Chee Tor Girdle VS 5a *** 374
113 Puppets
-
E1 5b 8
  Dog's Dinner Buttress
115 Dogfight 7c+  
116 Scooby Snacks 7a+ * 15
117 Shake the Tail 6b 19
118 Wag the Dog 6c 19
119 Tail Shake
-
6b * 8
120 Turkey Lurking 7b+ * 7
121 Baffled by Water Wings
-
E4 6b 2
122 Learning to Swim E4 6b 1
123 My Dog Dill E5 6a *  
124 Go Cat 7a ** 20
125 Dog Dirt 7c 5
126 In the Drink 6c * 16
127 Cat Lick 7b 4
128 Little Curver E1 1
129 The Dog Complex 6c+ * 3
130 Can't Wait a Dogone Minute 6c 1
131 Woof, Woof, Woof 6b 8
  Dogs Bouldering
133 Pedigree Chum 8c+ *** 5
134 Finest Pedigree 9a+ ***  
135 Dogs Dinner cross through problem f7A+ ** 4
136 Sidepulls sitstart f7A+ 1
137 Dinner time f7B * 1
138 α (Alpha) f7C ** 1
  The Cornice
140 Ophelias Lobelia
-
7b+  
141 Forehead Trombone 7b+ * 8
142 Trombone Practice 8a 2
143 Sharp Practice 8a+ **  
144 Masculine Power Trip 8a+ ** 1
145 Mescaline Power Trip 8a **  
146 Wright-On (1pt Aid) 7c+ * 2
147 Wright On (Free) 8a * 1
148 Wright to Left 7c ** 1
149 Taylor Made 7c ** 50
150 Feminine Ego Trip 8a 3
151 Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish) 8a 1
152 Feminine ego trip - clematis
-
8a * 1
153 Clematis 8b ** 4
154 Nemesis 8a+ *** 31
155 Bricktop 8b *** 13
156 Monumental Armblaster 8a+ *** 10
157 Malcolm X 8b+ ** 1
158 Malcolm Armblaster 8b ** 1
159 Last Eggs Before the M1 7c+ 2
160 Gran Techo 8b *** 9
161 Techno Prisoners 8b+ *** 3
162 The Jug Jockey 7c+ *** 51
163 Easy Rider 8a * 8
164 Bullheart 8b+ ** 1
165 Dreadnaught 8c ***  
166 Dreadnot 8b+ *** 5
167 The Roof Warrior 8a *** 79
168 Cry of Despair 7c *** 190
169 Rapid City 8a * 7
170 That was the River 7b+ ** 93
171 Streamline 7c+ 1
172 Tributary 8a+ 1
173 This is the Sea 7c+ * 64
174 Old Man River 7b ** 175
175 Have you seen the Old Men who climb the crags of Chee Dale 7a+ 2
176 Zippy's Direct Finish 7c 52
177 Dirty Old Man 8a 5
178 The Naive and Sentimental Lover 7c ** 28
179 Up the River Without a Paddle 7a ** 249
180 Snails of the Riverbank 7b ** 111
181 The Spiders from Mars 6b 157
182 The Monday Club 7a+ 12
183 Trampled Underfoot 7a * 20
184 Gardener's Question Time 7a * 23
185 Rue Morgue
-
6c 34
186 The Goldfish 7a+ * 1
187 After the Goldfish 7a+ * 13
188 Crowd Control 7c * 12
189 Une Crime Passionel E4 6a ** 70
190 Crime Control 7a+ * 7
191 A Bolted Power Problem 7b * 12
192 A Basic Power Problem E6 6b 1
Climb name Grade
193 Fey E4 5c * 17
194 War Memorial 6c * 373
195 Succubus 7b+ ** 71
196 Shazam E4 6a * 9
197 Martial Music 7a ** 466
198 Martial Call 6c+ * 36
199 Clarion Call 7a *** 552
200 Poppy Fields 7b+ * 8
201 Armistice Day 7a+ ** 339
202 Whose Line is it Anyway? 7a+ *** 346
203 Big Store E5 6b * 8
204 Egyptian Bizarre 7a+ * 86
205 Big Zipper 7b ** 297
206 Beelzebub 7b+ * 18
207 Bored of the Lies 7b+ *** 223
208 Bored into Beelzebub 7b+ * 7
209 Ouijaboard 8a ** 46
210 Four Door Dostoyevsky 8a+ ** 9
211 Powerplant 8a *** 132
212 Powerpants 8a * 4
213 Devonshire Arms 8b ** 10
214 Powerarms 8b * 2
215 Devonshire army 8a+ * 2
216 K3 8a+ *** 55
217 K5 8b * 5
218 K2 8b+ *  
219 42 8b *  
220 32 8b+ ** 5
221 The Anatomy Act 8b+ ** 1
222 R'n'P 8a+ *** 25
223 Body Snatchers 8b ** 3
224 Snatch 8b ** 5
225 Barney Ragin' 8b+ ** 4
226 Love Amongst the Butterflies 8b *** 11
227 Asia Shadow Player 8b **  
228 Somehow Super 8c *  
229 Unleashing the Wild Physique Direct 8a+ ** 2
230 Unleashing the Wild Physique 8a *** 51
231 Cosmopolitan 7b+ ** 169
232 Cordless Madness 7c ** 129
233 Mandy 7b+ * 60
234 Flowers in the Dirt 7b * 11
235 The Third Order 7b ** 39
236 Loco 7b+ * 12
237 Too Pumpy for Grumpy 7b+ 13
238 Further Adventures in Greendale 6c+ * 372
239 Old Man's Gambit E2 5c 1
240 The Corniceman 7a+ ** 181
241 Jelly Fingers
-
HVS 5a  
242 Vandal
-
VS 4c 1
243 Whitebeam
-
E1 5c  
244 Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
-
HS 4a  
245 Ezekiel Stool
-
E1 5b  
246 Um Bongo
-
E4 6b  
247 Led Up the Garden Path
-
E1 5b  
248 Flash Harry
-
E4 5c  
249 Too Jugless for Douglas
-
E4 6b 1
250 Subversive
-
E2 5b  
251 Fibrin
-
VS 4c  
252 Rinky Dinky
-
E1 5c 1
253 The 'too small for the tall' Wall
-
E5 6b  
254 Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
-
7b+  
255 Skin-flick
-
7c+  
  Rhubarb Buttress
257 The Way of the Gone Wives 6b+ 4
258 Custard Pie in yer Eye 6c 1
259 Cry Havoc 6c 2
260 Fallout Zone 6c 3
261 Gaseous Exchange 6c+ * 5
262 Chemical Weapons 7a * 18
263 Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb 6b+ * 51
264 Semolina Sunday 6c+ 3
265 The Bee's Knees E1 5a 2
266 A Laugh a Minute
-
E5 6a  
267 The Garlic Twist 6b+ * 39
268 Brief Camouflage 6c * 66
269 The Day of the Long Knives 7b+ 25
270 Feline Fine 6c * 50
271 Fat Ginger Cat 7a+ * 25
272 Turbo-charged Monster Mouse 7a * 32
273 Thrash Your Woodie 7b * 3
274 Me Tarzan 7b+ 2
275 De Vine 8a ** 1
276 Zebedee Visits the Clinic E6 6b  
277 Blue-arsed Fly
-
E6 6c  
278 The Rainmaker 7b+  
279 Bloodworm
-
E3 6a 1
280 Blood Lust E2 5c * 7
281 Bad Blood E5 6a 1
282 Blood Transfusion E5 6b  
283 Lady's Finger 7a+ * 3
284 The European Female 7a * 21
285 Moonflower
-
E4 6a  
286 Naiad
-
E1 5b  
287 Nip the Nippon
-
E2 5b 1

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