Climbs 97
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 231m a.s.l
Faces N

Ian Myres at the "Sentry Box" on Milestones, Peak Scar. 1965. © Tony Marr

Crag features

It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)
The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!
Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Approach notes

No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.
>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left. There is a path leading from the far eastern end of the wire fence, which leads directly into the crag. 
>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.

Access Advice

Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:

  • No large groups
  • No outdoor education or instructional groups
  • No dogs
  • All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

Guidebooks

Went here yesterday. I thought after 1 week of dry weather i gave it a visit. Still muddy and overgrown with nettles.needs weedol or napalm. Left hand end fairly solid but the battleship flake on pianissimo HAS widened and will surely go soon as will the obvious buttress of bbc/crackers.
RHINOS - 18/May/15
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13
The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13
A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11
Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09
Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07
Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06
Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06
Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06
On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Inertia MVS 4b * 3
2 Inertia Variation Start HS 4b 2
3 Easy Corner
-
M 9
4 White Wall
-
S 2
5 Sidewinder
-
VD * 42
6 Keystone Arete VD 4
7 Flaming Elbow HS 4b * 1
8 Wol S 3c * 7
9 Jonas HVD 10
10 Webar
-
S 4a 6
11 Viper
-
VD 4
12 Primo
-
VD 4
13 Womble
-
VS 4b 7
14 Trundle
-
D 8
15 J.C.B.
-
VD 6
16 Orinoco
-
S 4a 7
17 Twilight
-
MVS 4b * 33
18 Toasty's Last Stand HVS 5a? * 1
19 Moanin'
-
HS 4b ** 111
20 About VD 5
21 Kant
-
E1 5b 6
22 Dat Der
-
VS 4c ** 104
23 Mom's
-
VS 4c 2
24 Jordu
-
S 4a ** 265
25 Fifi
-
HVS 5a * 21
26 Fortissimo
-
HVS 5a 8
27 Pianississimo
-
VS 4c 40
28 Akers
-
VS 4c 12
29 Ornithology S 4a 57
30 Kestrel
-
HVS 5a 11
31 Odds On
-
HVS 5a * 10
32 Vulture
-
HVS 5a 3
33 Odds On Variant
-
HS 4b * 30
34 Pemba Chimney
-
VD 75
35 Concorde
-
VD 15
36 Harmony HS 4b 2
37 Main Wall Route
-
VS 4c 7
38 Main Wall Route - Right Hand Variation VS 4c 1
39 Weedy Wall
-
HVS 5a 4
40 Birdland Eliminate
-
HVS 5a 4
41 Twitter MVS 4b 4
42 Wings
-
S 4a ** 54
43 Birdland
-
HS 4b 17
44 Birdland Direct
-
MVS 4b ** 81
45 Freebird VS 4c *** 9
46 Zig Zag
-
HVS 4c * 8
47 Zig Zag Variant Start
-
HVS 5b ** 2
48 B.B.C. E2 5c 6
49 Crackers
-
E1 5b ** 8
50 Jam with Sam
-
VS 4b * 74
51 Perdido
-
VS 4c 17
52 Dido
-
HVS 5a 2
53 Headache Crack
-
VS 4c 6
54 Pardon
-
VS 4b 1
55 Gone HS 4b * 40
56 Male Menopause
-
HVS 5a 1
57 Milestones Super Direct
-
E1 5b * 9
58 Milestones
-
HVS 5a * 24
59 Trad
-
HVS 5a * 9
60 Shades of Grey
-
VS 4c * 6
61 Frenesi
-
VS 4c *** 85
62 Close to the Edge (Fringe Benefits)
-
HVS 5a 3
63 Downbeat
-
VD * 120
64 Upstart
-
S 4a 15
65 Walkin
-
S 4a 82
66 The Edge
-
HVS 4c 10
67 Cutting Edge VS 4c * 4
68 Frustration
-
VS 4c 9
69 Solitude
-
S 4a * 130
70 Solitude Direct MVS 4b 8
71 Murton Cave
-
D 59
72 Cobweb
-
VD 35
73 Cobweb Variation
-
VD 2
74 Mother Bear
-
HVS 5b 1
75 Cosmonaut Direct
-
HVS 5a * 17
76 Cosmonaut
-
VS 4c * 68
77 Cosmonaut Variant
-
VS 5a 6
78 Evasion
-
S 4a 11
79 Evasion - Variation Start
-
VS 4b  
80 Centipede S 4a 4
81 Marsupial
-
VS 4b 2
82 The Brood
-
E2 5b 1
83 Char Paray
-
E1 5b 1
84 Deflation
-
HS 4b 2
85 Broken Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
86 West Chimney
-
VD 4
87 Bivi
-
E3 5c 3
88 Camping E3 5c * 1
89 Astronaut
-
HVS 5a * 5
90 Gemini
-
HVS 5a 1
91 Mulligan Mania
-
HS 4b 19
92 High Level Traverse
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VS 4c 12
93 West Wall Route
-
MVS 4b 1
94 Dis Here
-
VS 4c 2
95 Davy Jones' Locker
-
M 1
96 Palmsun Chimney
-
D 3
97 Palmsun Wall
-
VD 1

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