Altitude 231m a.s.l
Ian Myres at the "Sentry Box" on Milestones, Peak Scar. 1965. © Tony Marr
It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)
The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!
Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).
No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.
>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left. There is a path leading from the far eastern end of the wire fence, which leads directly into the crag.
>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.
Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:
The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.