Climbs 92
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces N

My Edit of the 'classic' Moonflower shot © Dave Warburton

Crag features

One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:
Ladies First (VD)
Highcliffe Crack (S)
Hearthrob Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)
Holden's (HVS) Knuckle Duster (HVS)
Queer Street (E1 - bold) Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)
Rockhopper (E2 - bold) Peeler (E2)
Stargazer (E4)
Moonflower (E5)
Magic in the Air (E6/7)
Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a few dry days. Many of the previously neglected routes at the far end of the crag have recently been cleaned up (as of summer 2016) and are well worth seeking out.

Approach notes

From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
I've cleaned a few routes at the left hand end as they were looking sadly neglected. From left to right: - Holden's Wall (HVS) - Holden's Right Hand (HVS) - Green crack (HS) - Green wall (VS) - Frank's Folly (VS) - Peeler (E2) - Flange Crack (E2) - Sunset Crack (HVS) - Sarcophagus (HVS) - Wee Dot (HVS) - Knuckleduster (HVS) - Ping (E1) - Twin Cracks (HS) I've cleared the brambles and branches from the bottom of the crag too so it's easy enough to walk all the way along from the popular end now. I've also cleared the brash left over from the feeling at the top of the Peeler/Flange crack area as it was a nightmare walking through it to get to the belay trees. Hopefully this might encourage folk to venture down there a bit more as there are some cracking routes to be had, especially Ping, Peeler and Holden's. Get stuck in!
Anti-faff - 11/Jun/16
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Wall
2 The Scoop
-
VS 5a * 10
3 Ladies First Direct Start
-
VS 4c 18
4 Ladies First
-
HVD 19
5 Gardom
-
VS 4c 2
6 Smorrah
-
VS 4c 3
7 Isolation
-
VD 9
8 West Face Route
-
VD 11
9 No Hiding Place
-
E4 5c 1
10 North West Route HVD 4a * 73
11 North West Direct VS 4c * 32
12 Scar Face E1 5c 6
  Main Buttress
14 Chimney Buttress
-
HD 22
15 Highcliff Chimney-Ordinary VD 47
16 Highcliff Chimney Direct S 4a 63
17 Highcliff Chimney-Arete
-
S 12
18 Heart Throb Crack HS 4c * 84
19 The Web E4 5c * 6
20 Flake Crack VS 4c * 82
21 Cardiac Arrest E6 6b * 2
22 Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners) E7 6b? 1
23 Barnaby's Routes
-
HD 18
24 Rockhopper E3 5b 8
25 Highcliff Crack S 4b *** 179
26 Queer Street E1 5a ** 49
27 Moonflower
-
E5 6b ** 16
28 Moonflower Direct Finish E4 6b ** 6
29 Moonflower Super Direct E5 6b ** 4
30 Puffs Parade E1 5c * 4
31 Scarecrow Crack E1 5b *** 82
32 Five Years On E4 7a *** 1
33 Stargazer E3 5c ** 42
34 Stargazer Direct E5 6b * 3
35 Stargazer Super Direct E5 6b  
36 Desperate Den E6 6c ** 6
37 Magic In The Air E6 6b *** 5
38 Magic in the Air (Original) E6 6b *** 12
  The Back Walls
40 Original Sin E7 6c *  
41 Esmerelda E7 6c ** 1
42 Trampled Underfoot E1 5b * 5
43 Wombat E1 5b ** 29
44 The Bells Direct
-
E4 6b  
45 Edge Hog
-
HVS 5b 5
46 Damocles
-
VS 4b 6
47 The Shield
-
VS 4c 1
48 The Split
-
VD 2
49 Equity
-
VD  
50 Twin Cracks HS 4b * 14
51 Ping E1 5c * 17
52 Greasy Chimney
-
VD 2
53 Smear Fear
-
E3 5c *  
  Sector Creek
55 Cyclops
-
E3 5c  
56 Slime Slab
-
D 1
57 Slime Slab Variant
-
VS 4b 1
58 The Curious Intrigue E4 5c ** 2
59 Sod Crack
-
HVS 5b  
60 Skid Row
-
E1 5b 1
61 Knuckle Duster HVS 5a * 1
62 Wee Dot E1 5b ** 1
63 Up the Creek without a Paddle E2 6a 2
64 Sarcophagus HVS 4c 1
65 Sunset Crack HVS 5a 1
66 New Noise f7C ** 2
  Peeler Buttress
68 Queen Street
-
HVD  
69 Flange Crack E2 5c * 3
70 The Magic Scoop E8 7a ** 1
71 Green Crack
-
VD 2
72 Nice and Easy
-
HS 4b  
73 Peeler E1 5c *** 4
74 Gluon
-
E2 5c * 2
75 Cling On
-
E2 5c * 1
76 Wanton
-
HVS 5a * 1
  Eastern Bay
78 Paul's Problem E1 5c 1
79 Easy Crack D 1
80 Frank's Folly VS 4c 2
81 Green Wall Direct VS 4c  
82 Green Crack HS 4b 4
83 Green Wall VS 4c 3
84 Shades of Green HVS 4c 2
85 Lost Crack VS 4c * 4
86 Unnamed E2 5c  
87 Holden's Righthand HVS 5b ** 4
88 Holden's Wall HVS 5a ** 12
89 Bullshitters Wall
-
HVS 5b 1
90 Lost Cause
-
S 1
91 Twister S 1
92 Squeezed Dry E2 5b 1
93 Early Days
-
VS 4c * 2
94 Be-Bop-Bap
-
HVS 5a 1
95 Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5bA2  
96 Flower Power f6C 4
97 The Floating Power Traverse V0 7a 1
98 Sticky Toffee Pudding Power V1 5b 2

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