Climbs 123
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 530m a.s.l
Faces SW

A wonderful place to get away from it all © petegunn

Crag features

A series of large boulders of good quality moorland grit set in isolated surroundings high above old mine workings. Gets lots of sun but can be exposed, a fantastic venue for bouldering and routes.
Recommended here is La Bamba (VD), Lucky Strike (4b), Ye Old Friars (5a), Iron Pyrites (5b), The Griddle (6a).

Approach notes

Lies on a moorland used for grouse shooting, so when the season is on keep your eyes and ears peeled just incase. Placed in the middle of nowhere between Reeth in Swaledale and Barnard Castle. A minor road between these two is followed to Surrender Bridge. Park here, and walk along the gravel track leading west to the Old Gang Smelt Mills. Follow the obvious old flue straight up the hill to the crag.
Alternatively, park 0.25 mi N of Surrender Bridge and walk across the moor to the west.
The first route described is the one preferred by the estate (though it's on access land so please yourself!). However, it's also guaranteed to take you straight to the crag, which the other route isn't! 30 minutes either way but worth the walk.

Access Advice

Check local notices to ensure that no shooting will be taking place - call Peter Rowe on 01748 866 233 to check before climbing.

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year ban on dogs.

Guidebooks

Font Grades, new climbs and a topo can be found here: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/healheugh.htm
Steve Crowe - 14/Jan/14
Sorted left to right and updated. Grades based on existing tech grades, from Steve Crowes 2003 guide; with the addition of V grades, where appropriate. (Deabte ad-tedium)
Climbster - 22/Dec/13
brilliant crag
Harry Holmes - 06/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Rhombus 
2The Rhombus
-
VD 26
 FRIAR'S WALL 
4DeadlinesV1 **8
5Friardaysf4 5a 36
6FriarfoldV0- 61
7Fry upV1 45
8Friar Tuckf4 5a *52
9HushV2 *29
10Ye Old Friarsf4 5a *43
11Gangue Way
-
V0- 54
12Gangue Way DirectV0 13
13Gable End
-
V0- *41
14The Pig
-
V1 21
15Low Level TraverseV1 3
 INSCRIBED BLOCK 
17South East Side
-
VB 23
18Left Slanting Gangway
-
VB 25
19Rock PocketV0 10
20South West AreteV0 *12
21The Runnels
-
VB 21
 CARTWHEEL BLOCK 
23Right Hand Drive
-
VB *23
24Four Horse Power
-
VB 21
25Left Hand Drive
-
VB 20
 TILTED SLAB 
27South Face
-
VB 23
28Full Tilt
-
VB *23
29Bitter Tongue
-
VB *24
30Slant
-
VB 25
31Tilted
-
V1 *10
32What's Your Problem
-
V2 *9
 DIAMOND BLOCK 
34Diamond Left
-
VB 20
35Diamond Face
-
VB 23
36Diamond Right
-
VB 23
 LOW ANGLED SLAB 
38Look! No Hands
-
VB 12
39Tired of Writing
-
VB 21
40Helados
-
VB 17
41Helados Sit Startf6A 5
42King Konef4 5a *12
43Mr Wobbly
-
V0 14
44On The Level
-
V0 **8
 THE ALCOVE 
46Mivvi
-
VB 23
47The Dares On YouE1 5a *2
48GumbyV1 2
49Bob's Problem
-
VB 11
50Call me AlVS 4c 16
51Bruce's AreteVS 4b *17
52Dont PanicV0- 4
53Bobs AreteVB 6
 TRANQUILITY BOULDER 
55Breeze
-
VB 10
56Tranquility
-
VB 9
 FIRST FLUE BUTTRESS 
58Spot The Brain CellV0- 2
59InfluenzaV0- 4
60The SnivelingV0 2
 SECOND FLUE BUTTRESS 
62Bongs Crack
-
VB 5
63Loopy
-
VB 9
64Dappy
-
VB 5
 Third Flue Buttress - Lumberjack Wall 
66Lumberjack
-
E3 5b 4
67Ukerty Puck's Crooked Stook
-
E2 5b **6
68Colonic RushE2 5c 6
69Eau de Cologne
-
HVS 5a 7
70Colophon
-
S 4a 12
 THE MAGIC BUTTRESS 
72A Little Bit of Magic
-
VB 8
73Magic CircleV0 *3
74The Spellf5+ 1
75The Griddlef6A 6a *3
76Harry's Magic Matchbox
-
f6A 1
77Magic Musicf3 4c 4
78Paul Daniels Wears a Wigf3 4c 6
 AUTUMN BUTTRESS 
80Karins WallV1 3
81Karls AreteV0 *5
82Grommit Takes the InitiativeV1 3
83Fall AreteV0 *5
84Autumn Wall
-
none 6b **1
85A Bridge Too Far
-
none 6a 1
 INCLINED BUTTRESS 
87Spring Wall (A Leap in the Dark)
-
f4 1
88Their Glorious WealthE5 6b **1
89An Inclination to Solitude
-
VS 5a/b *1
90Peace in the Valley
-
E1 5c *1
 FOUR LEAFED CLOVER BUTTRESS 
92Lay Down Those ArmsV0 3
93Emerald IsleE5 6a 7
94Blood Red StreetsE6 6c *2
95Sin FeinE5 6b *14
96AlfalfaV0+ *6
97Clover at Your FeetHVD 18
98Twin CracksHVD 21
99Easy Arete
-
VB 13
 FLOW SPAR BUTTRESS 
101EbbV1 7
102SpartanVB 9
103FloVB 14
 MATTERHORN BOULDER 
105The Matted Horn
-
VB 12
106On The PisteV0+ 2
107NE FaceV0+ 2
 LUCKYSTRIKE BUTTRESS - The west face 
109SachHVS 5b 9
110NikkiE2 5c *5
111StewpotHVS 5a *22
112West Face EliminateE2 5c *2
 MINERS WALL 
114Toil AreteHVS 5a *15
115LuckystrikeHS 4b *37
116GalenaS 4a *45
117OreVD *50
118SmelterD 42
 The coal face 
120Vane TempestVB 2
121Dawdon
-
VB 12
 plumbate buttress 
123Its Up to YouVB 4
124Evening GoldV0 4
125Iron Pyrites
-
V1 ***7
126PlumbateVB *5
127Plumbers MateV2 **3
 CALVERS FACE 
129Rock N LockV2 2
130Tito's
-
VB 25
131Tito Sit StartV0+ 2
132Fiesta
-
VB *17
133ConquerorS 4a *39
134Green DragonS 4a *49
135MarimbaVS 5a *28
136Marimba Directf4+ 5b *12
137Upna DownS 4a 33
138La BambaS 4a *20
 SKIVER BLOCK 
140Grafterf6B 6b 6
141RondoVD 32
142Eliminatef4+ 5b 14
143Tarantella
-
VB *32
144Tarentella DirectV2 *4
145SkiverV1 *33
146Mazurka
-
VB 48
 FAR EAST SLAB 
148Strip the Willow
-
VB 18

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