Climbs 149
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 530m a.s.l
Faces SW

A wonderful place to get away from it all © petegunn

Crag features

A series of large boulders of good quality moorland grit set in isolated surroundings high above old mine workings. Gets lots of sun but can be exposed, a fantastic venue for bouldering and routes.
Recommended here is La Bamba (VD), Lucky Strike (4b), Ye Old Friars (5a), Iron Pyrites (5b), The Griddle (6a).

Approach notes

Lies on a moorland used for grouse shooting, so when the season is on keep your eyes and ears peeled just incase. Placed in the middle of nowhere between Reeth in Swaledale and Barnard Castle. A minor road between these two is followed to Surrender Bridge. Park here, and walk along the gravel track leading west to the Old Gang Smelt Mills. Follow the obvious old flue straight up the hill to the crag.
Alternatively, park 0.25 mi N of Surrender Bridge and walk across the moor to the west.
The first route described is the one preferred by the estate (though it's on access land so please yourself!). However, it's also guaranteed to take you straight to the crag, which the other route isn't! 30 minutes either way but worth the walk.

Guidebooks

Added Swain's Problem on primo boulder and the Far West Boulders, based on the climbonline descriptions and grades (although I don't seem to be able to create new areas so this needs sorting). The routes I did on the Far West boulders felt a bit soft for the grades given on climbonline so I've tweaked a few, probably still not quite right though.
Jamie Brown - 12/Jul/17
Font Grades, new climbs and a topo can be found here: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/healheugh.htm
Steve Crowe - 14/Jan/14
Sorted left to right and updated. Grades based on existing tech grades, from Steve Crowes 2003 guide; with the addition of V grades, where appropriate. (Deabte ad-tedium)
Climbster - 22/Dec/13
brilliant crag
Harry Holmes - 06/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Rhombus
2 The Rhombus
-
VD 30
  FRIAR'S WALL
4 Deadlines V1 5b ** 9
5 Friardays f4+ 39
6 Friarfold f3+ 67
7 Fry up f5 50
8 Friar Tuck f4+ * 57
9 Hush f5 * 33
10 Ye Old Friars f4+ * 47
11 Gangue Way f3+ * 58
12 Gangue Way Direct V0 5a 16
13 Gable End f4 * 44
14 The Pig f4+ 24
15 Low Level Traverse V1 5b 3
  INSCRIBED BLOCK
17 South East Side
-
VB 4a 27
18 Left Slanting Gangway
-
VB 29
19 Rock Pocket V0 5a 14
20 South West Arete V0 5a * 16
21 The Runnels
-
VB 25
  CARTWHEEL BLOCK
23 Right Hand Drive
-
VB * 26
24 Four Horse Power
-
VB 24
25 Left Hand Drive
-
VB 23
  TILTED SLAB
27 South Face
-
VB 4a 26
28 Full Tilt
-
VB 4b * 26
29 Bitter Tongue
-
VB 4a * 26
30 Slant
-
VB 27
31 Tilted
-
V1 5b * 12
32 What's Your Problem
-
V2 5c * 11
  DIAMOND BLOCK
34 Diamond Left
-
VB 24
35 Diamond Face
-
VB 28
36 Diamond Right
-
VB 28
  LOW ANGLED SLAB
38 Look! No Hands
-
VB 13
39 Tired of Writing
-
VB 4a 23
40 Helados
-
VB 4c 18
41 Helados Sit Start f6A 5
42 King Kone f4+ * 14
43 Mr Wobbly f4+ * 15
44 On The Level f4+ * 8
  THE ALCOVE
46 Mivvi
-
VB 23
47 The Dares On You f4+ * 2
48 Gumby V1 5b 2
49 Bob's Problem
-
VB 4b 11
50 Call me Al VS 4c 16
51 Bruce's Arete VS 4b * 18
52 Dont Panic V0- 4c 5
53 Bobs Arete VB 6
  TRANQUILITY BOULDER
55 Breeze
-
VB 10
56 Tranquility
-
VB 4c 9
  FIRST FLUE BUTTRESS
58 Spot The Brain Cell V0- 4c 2
59 Influenza V0- 4
60 The Sniveling V0 2
  SECOND FLUE BUTTRESS
62 Bongs Crack
-
VB 4b 5
63 Loopy
-
VB 9
64 Dappy
-
VB 4b 5
  Third Flue Buttress - Lumberjack Wall
66 Lumberjack
-
E3 5b 4
67 Ukerty Puck's Crooked Stook
-
E2 5b ** 7
68 Colonic Rush E2 5c 6
69 Eau de Cologne
-
HVS 5a 7
70 Colophon
-
S 4a 12
  THE MAGIC BUTTRESS
72 A Little Bit of Magic
-
VB 4b 8
73 Magic Circle V0 * 3
74 The Spell f5+ 1
75 The Griddle f6A+ * 3
76 Harry's Magic Matchbox
-
f6A 1
77 Magic Music f4 4
78 Paul Daniels Wears a Wig f4 6
  AUTUMN BUTTRESS
80 Karins Wall V1 5c 3
81 Karls Arete f4+ * 6
82 Grommit Takes the Initiative V1 5c 3
83 Fall Arete f4+ * 6
84 Autumn Wall f6B+ * 1
85 A Bridge Too Far
-
none 6a 1
  INCLINED BUTTRESS
87 Spring Wall (A Leap in the Dark)
-
f4 1
88 Their Glorious Wealth E5 6b ** 1
89 An Inclination to Solitude HVS 5b * 1
90 Peace in the Valley E1 5c 1
  FOUR LEAFED CLOVER BUTTRESS
92 Lay Down Those Arms V0 3
93 Emerald Isle E5 6a 8
94 Blood Red Streets E6 6c * 2
95 Sin Fein E5 6b * 11
96 Alfalfa VS 4c * 6
97 Clover at Your Feet HVD 18
98 Twin Cracks HVD 21
99 Easy Arete
-
VB 13
  FLOW SPAR BUTTRESS
101 Ebb V1 5b 7
102 Spartan VB 4c 9
103 Flo VB 4c 14
  MATTERHORN BOULDER
105 The Matted Horn
-
VB 12
106 On The Piste V0+ 5b 2
107 NE Face V0+ 5b 2
  LUCKYSTRIKE BUTTRESS - The west face
109 Jabba f6B+  
110 Sach HVS 5b 10
111 Nikki E2 5c * 6
112 Stewpot HVS 5a * 24
113 Stake a Claim E1 5c *  
114 West Face Eliminate E2 5c * 2
  MINERS WALL
116 Toil Arete HVS 5a * 15
117 Luckystrike HS 4b * 38
118 Galena S 4a * 50
119 Ore VD * 51
120 Smelter D 44
  The coal face
122 Vane Tempest VB s 2
123 Dawdon
-
VB 12
  plumbate buttress
125 Its Up to You VB 4
126 Evening Gold V0 5
127 Iron Pyrites
-
V1 *** 7
128 Plumbate VB * 6
129 Plumbers Mate V2 5c ** 3
  CALVERS FACE
131 Rock N Lock V2 5c 2
132 Tito's f3+ 25
133 Tito Sit Start V0+ 5b 2
134 Fiesta f4 * 17
135 Conqueror S 4a * 39
136 Green Dragon S 4a * 49
137 Marimba VS 5a * 28
138 Marimba Direct f5 * 12
139 Upna Down S 4a 33
140 La Bamba S 4a * 19
  SKIVER BLOCK
142 Grafter f6B+ 6
143 Rondo VD 33
144 Eliminate f5 15
145 Tarantella f4+ * 33
146 Tarentella Direct V2 5c * 5
147 Skiver f5 * 34
148 Mazurka VB 49
  FAR EAST SLAB
150 Strip the Willow
-
VB 19
151 Swain's Problem * f4 1
152 FW1 * V4+ 1
153 FW2 * f3+ 1
154 FW3 * f3+ 1
155 FW4 * f2 1
156 Block A.a * f2 1
157 FW5 * f5  
158 FW6 * f4+  
159 FW7 * f4+  
160 FW8 * f5+  
161 FW9 * f5+  
162 FW9a * f2+ 1
163 FW10 * f2 1
164 FW11 * f4+ 1
165 FW12 * f2 1
166 FW13 * f4+ 1
167 FW14 * f4+ 1
168 FW15 * f3+ 1
169 FW16 * f3+ 1
170 FW17 * f3+ 1
171 FW18 * f3+ 1
172 FW19 * f3 1
173 FW20 * f3 1
174 FW21 * f3 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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