UKC

Climbs 192
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces all

Charlotte on Jumping Jack Flash © Tom Peckitt

Crag features

A series of severely undercut buttresses of sound moorland grit. Recommended: Fiddler on the Roof (5c), Fiddlers Arete (5b), Fiddler (5a). Both north- and south-facing.

Approach notes

Full details here:

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/goldsborogh.htm

Access Advice

Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a 5 year dog ban.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011)

Out of print:
The rock is gritstone (i.e. millstone grit). The climbing is good, though the starts of the routes tend to be rather tricky. The bouldering is also excellent (in fact most of the routes are just boulder problems with easy finishes) George.
Mr Pink 2 - 28/May/05
I would just like to add that even though I am no rock expert, Goldsborough Carr is not a gritstone crag. I mentioned a gritstone overhang but i failed to mention that the above rock is harder, thus there is an overhang. The lower portion (which only appears under the highest climbs) might not even be gritstone. Seasoned geologists might be able to determine what type of rock is seen both in my photo and the majority of the rest of the crag, but I can't. So please don't go expecting lots of gritstone action. I feel partly guilty for it. Also, there is more than just bouldering available. The climb in the photo is way too high for my liking. Also, there are lots of metal poles in the ground at the top of the crag for tying into. Most of the crag is south-facing but some is west facing and a little bit faces north. Parking can be done on the road to the north and a 10-minute walk across a bushy field separates you from the crag, which can be seen from the road.
Tommy Alsop - 26/Nov/04
Concerning the picture of James on Fiddler on the Roof To start this climb go to the back of the wall under the overhang. There is a rock which you can put your leg over and lock yourself in with your toe. From there, if you put your weight on this foot lock and walk your other leg up the wall you should be able to reach the first hold. Don't take your leg out of the lock until you get a good hold cos you'll swing out and probably fall 3 metres onto your face.
- - 25/Nov/04
A mixture of very hard climbs or very easy climbs. Those routes which were beyond me were the ones which start 2 metres off the ground. We had to abseil down from the top in order to climb because we werent able to do the gritstone overhangs. The easier climbs were mostly short bouldering routes of about 4c-5a standard. There's plenty to do, it's fairly easy to get to and we were alone when we went midweek.
Tommy Alsop - 18/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Enigma Buttress
2 The Swaledale Morris Men S 4b 108
3 Y-Crack VD 175
4 Finger Crack f4 * 158
5 System of a Brown f6B+ 4
6 Ravock chimney S 4a 67
7 Go Ahead, Make my Hay
-
f6B  
8 In Search of Cheap Bananas f6B+ *  
9 Enigma Direct f6B+ * 6
10 Enigma f6A+ * 25
11 Old Moss f5+ * 45
12 Magic Moss f6B 1
13 Cotherstone Reiver f5 * 32
14 Corner Crack D 78
15 Holstein Friesian f6B+ 1
16 Flake and Crack S 4b * 142
17 The Crack Direct
-
f4 26
  Hubris Buttress
19 Hubris f6A+ * 52
20 Hubris Right-hand f6C  
21 Cenopod Corner VD 61
22 Saturnalia f5 15
23 Ian's Arete f7A 1
24 Hunder crack S 4a * 95
25 Crawlaw
-
f3 47
26 Fats' Dyno and Mantle f6A 8
  Boulder
28 Indian Summer
-
f3 11
29 Long and Hot
-
f6A 2
  Yoke Buttress
31 Mawman
-
f3 58
32 Mawman SS f6C * 1
33 Stewart's Wall
-
f5+ 18
34 Yoke Sike
-
f4 * 49
35 Yoke Siddle
-
f5 21
36 Yawd Sike
-
f3 47
37 Brown Rigg Flake
-
f2 53
38 Brown Rigg Wall
-
f2 46
  Thornbird Buttress
40 Bottle Wall
-
f3 25
41 Bottle Crack
-
f2 23
42 Motivation Left Hand f6A 2
43 Motivation f5+ 19
44 The Obsessed f6A+ 5
45 Viola
-
f6B 1
46 George's Roof f7C+ 8
47 Fiddler on the Roof E1 5c * 62
48 Klute E6 6c 1
49 The Thornbird E2 6a * 13
50 Green Nigel E2 6a 12
51 The Long Reach f7A * 4
52 Legless f6C 3
53 Clamp Master
-
f7B+ **  
54 Tute Crack S 4a 37
  The Alcove
56 Yale f3+ 35
57 Lock Out f4 53
58 Borstal Breakout f6A+ 5
59 Loups Arete f4+ 21
60 Loups Wall
-
f5 5
61 The Alcove Circuit
-
f5 4
  Thin Wall Buttress
63 Maggie's Wall VD 98
64 Topal's Wall VS 4c 57
65 Rock Art f7C+ *  
66 Rock Wall f7B ** 1
67 Fiddler's Wall f7A * 3
68 Pessimist f7C 1
69 Fiddlers Arete HVS 5b ** 162
70 Traverse into Fiddler's Arete f6C 4
71 Fiddler HVS 5a * 96
72 Fiddler Direct E1 5b * 79
73 Barney Boys f6A+ * 18
74 The Scoop f6B+ * 15
Climb name Grade
75 Confectionary Debris f7C *  
76 Thin Wall Special f5+ * 74
77 G String
-
VS 5a 6
78 Jumping Jack Flash f6A+ ** 94
79 Low Level Traverse f7A *** 5
80 Super Low Level Traverse f7B  
81 Something Burning
-
f8A  
82 Second Coming f8B  
83 Juxtapose
-
f8A  
84 The Footless Traverse f7B * 1
85 Holeshot
-
f7C  
86 Beth's Traverse f7C ** 2
87 Prelude
-
f7C+  
88 Unnamed f6C+ 1
89 Love Spreads f8A  
90 Shotgun Hobo f8A **  
  Baldersdale Buttress
92 Plagiarist Left Hand
-
f6A 20
93 Plagiarist
-
f6A * 35
94 This One's For Bill f7A+ *** 9
95 Bass Special
-
f4+ * 74
96 Ice Cream Special f5 4
97 Scoop f6C+ 4
98 Scream
-
f6A 8
99 Baldersdale Ale
-
f3 15
100 The Balder
-
f3 12
  South East Boulder
102 Tidal Force
-
f5+ 5
103 The Ups (Left)
-
f6A 4
104 The Ups (Right)
-
f6A+ 4
105 South East Boulder - Southwest Face Top Traverse
-
f6A 5
106 The Tide is Turning
-
f6C 6
107 Low Water Mark
-
f7A  
108 The Spring Tide
-
f7A+  
109 Ebb and Flow
-
f7A 1
  Diagonal Buttress
111 No Break Traverse f4 3
112 Askew
-
f5 5b 11
113 Adverse Camber
-
f6A 9
114 Gap Factor Nine
-
f3 22
115 Upper Break
-
f2+ 31
116 Diagonal Crack
-
f3 87
117 Diagonal Direct
-
f3 67
118 Milk Snatcher
-
f5 61
119 Milk Snatcher sitting start
-
f6A 7
120 Kel's Problem
-
f5+ 50
121 Kel's Problem sitting start
-
f6A 6
122 Ricochet f4 62
123 right to left traverse f6A 8
124 7 Year Old Solo D 8
  Goldsborough North
  North East Boulders
  1. Eastern Wall
128 Hands On Top
-
f4+ 1
129 Hands Below
-
f6A+ 1
  2. The Thin Seam Bloc
131 113. Mantle
-
f4+ 2
132 114. Mantle
-
f6A+ 2
133 Abutment
-
f4+ 5
134 Brow
-
f6A+ 4
135 Comminution
-
f5 4
136 The Thin Seam
-
f6B+ *** 7
137 Drift
-
f6A * 2
  3. Deal No Deal Bloc
139 First Mantel
-
f5 6
140 Second Mantel
-
f6A 3
141 The Nose
-
f5+ 4
142 West Face Triple
-
f5 6
143 Banker
-
f6A * 8
144 No Deal
-
f7A *** 1
145 Velvet Morning
-
f6C 1
  4. Detached Boulder
147 Around the Block
-
f7A ** 1
148 Left Arete f5 3
Climb name Grade
  Boulder Five
150 Firth of Fifth
-
f5 * 2
151 After the Ordeal
-
f5 2
  Boulder Six
153 East Face
-
f4 1
154 Arete
-
f5 1
155 The West Face
-
f4 1
  Boulder Seven
157 Moonchild
-
f4 3
158 Infinite Dreams
-
f5+ 1
159 Can I play with madness? f5 * 4
160 The evil that men do
-
f5 2
161 The Prophecy
-
f5 * 2
162 The Clairvoyant
-
f4 3
163 The Sheep Pit
-
f3+ 1
164 Seventh Son of a Seventh Son
-
f6C ** 1
  Boulder Eight
166 Eight Miles High
-
f2 1
167 Eight Days a Week
-
f3+ 1
168 Eighth Wonder
-
f2+ 1
  9. Isolated Arete
170 The Isolated ArĂȘte
-
f2+ 3
  10. The Wall
172 In the Flesh
-
f2+ 2
173 Goodbye Blue Sky
-
f4 1
174 Empty Spaces
-
f4 2
175 Another Brick in the Wall f4+ 2
176 Goodbye Cruel World
-
f4 1
177 Hey You
-
f2+ 2
178 Comfortably Numb
-
f4 1
179 Run Like Hell f6A 1
  11 Dobson Boulder
181 In the Skies
-
f2+ 1
182 Funky Chunky
-
f3 1
183 Tribal Dance
-
f3 1
184 Seven Stars f6A+ *** 1
185 The Prow f6A+ 1
186 Just For You f3 1
187 Apostle f4 1
188 Slabo Day
-
f4 2
189 Jo's Arete
-
f4 3
190 Bad Tip
-
f7A+ 1
  Bentley's Buttress
192 Flymantle VS 5a * 4
193 Flakeaway
-
VD 21
194 Scoon Crack
-
f3 14
195 Scoon Arete
-
f3 18
196 Erroneous Areticus
-
f4 * 8
197 Wall of Errors
-
f4 7
198 Crackaway
-
f2+ 22
199 Pocket Wall f3+ 4
200 Bentley's Arete
-
f3+ * 17
  North West Buttress
202 Pitcher Crack S 9
203 Hagworm VS 4b 9
204 Friar Wall
-
HS 4b 14
205 Tuck
-
D 19
206 North West Girdle
-
S 4b 2
  Final Buttress
208 Lock Up
-
f3 3
209 Wriggle Up
-
f3+ 4
210 Double Mantelshelf
-
f5+ 1
211 Blockton Way
-
f3 8
212 Block and Tackle
-
f2+ 10
  Unsorted Climbs
214 Yellow Toes V1 * 1
215 Yellow Toes Direct V0 * 1
216 I am the breeze V3 ** 1
217 Scoon Wall MVS 5a ** 1
218 Briscoe Crack VS 4c 4
219 Howgill Wall S 4c 2
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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