Climbs 191
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces all

Charlotte on Jumping Jack Flash © Tom Peckitt

Crag features

A series of severely undercut buttresses of sound moorland grit. Recommended: Fiddler on the Roof (5c), Fiddlers Arete (5b), Fiddler (5a). Both north- and south-facing.

Approach notes

Full details here:

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/goldsborogh.htm

Access Advice

Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a 5 year dog ban.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011)

Out of print:
The rock is gritstone (i.e. millstone grit). The climbing is good, though the starts of the routes tend to be rather tricky. The bouldering is also excellent (in fact most of the routes are just boulder problems with easy finishes) George.
Mr Pink 2 - 28/May/05
I would just like to add that even though I am no rock expert, Goldsborough Carr is not a gritstone crag. I mentioned a gritstone overhang but i failed to mention that the above rock is harder, thus there is an overhang. The lower portion (which only appears under the highest climbs) might not even be gritstone. Seasoned geologists might be able to determine what type of rock is seen both in my photo and the majority of the rest of the crag, but I can't. So please don't go expecting lots of gritstone action. I feel partly guilty for it. Also, there is more than just bouldering available. The climb in the photo is way too high for my liking. Also, there are lots of metal poles in the ground at the top of the crag for tying into. Most of the crag is south-facing but some is west facing and a little bit faces north. Parking can be done on the road to the north and a 10-minute walk across a bushy field separates you from the crag, which can be seen from the road.
Tommy Alsop - 26/Nov/04
Concerning the picture of James on Fiddler on the Roof To start this climb go to the back of the wall under the overhang. There is a rock which you can put your leg over and lock yourself in with your toe. From there, if you put your weight on this foot lock and walk your other leg up the wall you should be able to reach the first hold. Don't take your leg out of the lock until you get a good hold cos you'll swing out and probably fall 3 metres onto your face.
- - 25/Nov/04
A mixture of very hard climbs or very easy climbs. Those routes which were beyond me were the ones which start 2 metres off the ground. We had to abseil down from the top in order to climb because we werent able to do the gritstone overhangs. The easier climbs were mostly short bouldering routes of about 4c-5a standard. There's plenty to do, it's fairly easy to get to and we were alone when we went midweek.
Tommy Alsop - 18/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Enigma Buttress
2 The Swaledale Morris Men S 4b 105
3 Y-Crack VD 171
4 Finger Crack f4 * 154
5 System of a Brown f6B+ 4
6 Ravock chimney S 4a 66
7 Go Ahead, Make my Hay
-
f6B  
8 In Search of Cheap Bananas f6B+ *  
9 Enigma Direct f6B+ * 6
10 Enigma f6A+ * 23
11 Old Moss f5+ * 44
12 Magic Moss f6B 1
13 Cotherstone Reiver f5 * 32
14 Corner Crack D 76
15 Holstein Friesian f6B+ 1
16 Flake and Crack S 4b * 141
17 The Crack Direct
-
f4 25
  Hubris Buttress
19 Hubris f6A+ * 50
20 Hubris Right-hand f6C  
21 Cenopod Corner VD 59
22 Saturnalia f5 15
23 Ian's Arete f7A  
24 Hunder crack S 4a * 91
25 Crawlaw
-
f3 44
26 Fats' Dyno and Mantle f6A 7
  Boulder
28 Indian Summer
-
f3 11
29 Long and Hot
-
f6A 2
  Yoke Buttress
31 Mawman
-
f3 56
32 Stewart's Wall
-
f5+ 17
33 Yoke Sike
-
f4 * 46
34 Yoke Siddle
-
f5 19
35 Yawd Sike
-
f3 45
36 Brown Rigg Flake
-
f2 50
37 Brown Rigg Wall
-
f2 42
  Thornbird Buttress
39 Bottle Wall
-
f3 23
40 Bottle Crack
-
f2 21
41 Motivation Left Hand f6A 2
42 Motivation f5+ 19
43 The Obsessed f6A+ 5
44 Viola
-
f6B 1
45 George's Roof f7C+ 8
46 Fiddler on the Roof E1 5c * 62
47 Klute E6 6c 1
48 The Thornbird E2 6a * 13
49 Green Nigel E2 6a 12
50 The Long Reach f7A * 4
51 Legless f6C 3
52 Clamp Master
-
f7B+ **  
53 Tute Crack S 4a 37
  The Alcove
55 Yale f3+ 34
56 Lock Out f4 51
57 Borstal Breakout f6A+ 5
58 Loups Arete f4+ 21
59 Loups Wall
-
f5 5
60 The Alcove Circuit
-
f5 4
  Thin Wall Buttress
62 Maggie's Wall VD 97
63 Topal's Wall VS 4c 55
64 Rock Art f7C+ *  
65 Rock Wall f7B ** 1
66 Fiddler's Wall f7A * 3
67 Pessimist f7C 1
68 Fiddlers Arete HVS 5b ** 156
69 Traverse into Fiddler's Arete f6C 3
70 Fiddler HVS 5a * 95
71 Fiddler Direct E1 5b * 77
72 Barney Boys f6A+ * 18
73 The Scoop f6B+ * 15
74 Confectionary Debris f7C *  
75 Thin Wall Special f5+ * 73
76 G String
-
VS 5a 6
77 Jumping Jack Flash f6A+ ** 92
78 Low Level Traverse f7A *** 5
79 Super Low Level Traverse f7B  
80 Something Burning
-
f8A  
81 Second Coming f8B  
82 Juxtapose
-
f8A  
83 The Footless Traverse f7B * 1
84 Holeshot
-
f7C  
85 Beth's Traverse f7C ** 2
86 Prelude
-
f7C+  
87 Unnamed f6C+ 1
88 Love Spreads f8A  
89 Shotgun Hobo f8A **  
  Baldersdale Buttress
91 Plagiarist Left Hand
-
f6A 19
92 Plagiarist
-
f6A * 34
93 This One's For Bill f7A+ *** 8
94 Bass Special
-
f4+ * 74
95 Ice Cream Special f5 3
96 Scoop f6C+ 3
97 Scream
-
f6A 8
98 Baldersdale Ale
-
f3 15
99 The Balder
-
f3 13
  South East Boulder
101 Tidal Force
-
f5+ 5
102 The Ups (Left)
-
f6A 4
103 The Ups (Right)
-
f6A+ 4
104 South East Boulder - Southwest Face Top Traverse
-
f6A 5
105 The Tide is Turning
-
f6C 6
106 Low Water Mark
-
f7A  
107 The Spring Tide
-
f7A+  
108 Ebb and Flow
-
f7A 1
  Diagonal Buttress
110 No Break Traverse f4 3
111 Askew
-
f5 5b 11
112 Adverse Camber
-
f6A 9
113 Gap Factor Nine
-
f3 22
114 Upper Break
-
f2+ 30
115 Diagonal Crack
-
f3 85
116 Diagonal Direct
-
f3 65
117 Milk Snatcher
-
f5 60
118 Milk Snatcher sitting start
-
f6A 6
119 Kel's Problem
-
f5+ 50
120 Kel's Problem sitting start
-
f6A 5
121 Ricochet f4 61
122 right to left traverse f6A 8
123 7 Year Old Solo D 8
  Goldsborough North
  North East Boulders
  1. Eastern Wall
127 Hands On Top
-
f4+ 1
128 Hands Below
-
f6A+ 1
  2. The Thin Seam Bloc
130 113. Mantle
-
f4+ 2
131 114. Mantle
-
f6A+ 2
132 Abutment
-
f4+ 5
133 Brow
-
f6A+ 4
134 Comminution
-
f5 4
135 The Thin Seam
-
f6B+ *** 7
136 Drift
-
f6A * 2
  3. Deal No Deal Bloc
138 First Mantel
-
f5 6
139 Second Mantel
-
f6A 3
140 The Nose
-
f5+ 4
141 West Face Triple
-
f5 6
142 Banker
-
f6A * 8
143 No Deal
-
f7A *** 1
144 Velvet Morning
-
f6C 1
  4. Detached Boulder
146 Around the Block
-
f7A ** 1
147 Left Arete f5 2
  Boulder Five
149 Firth of Fifth
-
f5 * 2
150 After the Ordeal
-
f5 2
  Boulder Six
152 East Face
-
f4 1
153 Arete
-
f5 1
154 The West Face
-
f4 1
  Boulder Seven
156 Moonchild
-
f4 3
157 Infinite Dreams
-
f5+ 1
158 Can I play with madness? f5 * 4
159 The evil that men do
-
f5 2
160 The Prophecy
-
f5 * 2
161 The Clairvoyant
-
f4 3
162 The Sheep Pit
-
f3+ 1
163 Seventh Son of a Seventh Son
-
f6C ** 1
  Boulder Eight
165 Eight Miles High
-
f2 1
166 Eight Days a Week
-
f3+ 1
167 Eighth Wonder
-
f2+ 1
  9. Isolated Arete
169 The Isolated ArĂȘte
-
f2+ 3
  10. The Wall
171 In the Flesh
-
f2+ 2
172 Goodbye Blue Sky
-
f4 1
173 Empty Spaces
-
f4 2
174 Another Brick in the Wall f4+ 2
175 Goodbye Cruel World
-
f4 1
176 Hey You
-
f2+ 2
177 Comfortably Numb
-
f4 1
178 Run Like Hell f6A 1
  11 Dobson Boulder
180 In the Skies
-
f2+ 1
181 Funky Chunky
-
f3 1
182 Tribal Dance
-
f3 1
183 Seven Stars f6A+ *** 1
184 The Prow f6A+ 1
185 Just For You f3 1
186 Apostle f4 1
187 Slabo Day
-
f4 2
188 Jo's Arete
-
f4 3
189 Bad Tip
-
f7A+ 1
  Bentley's Buttress
191 Flymantle VS 5a * 4
192 Flakeaway
-
VD 21
193 Scoon Crack
-
f3 14
194 Scoon Arete
-
f3 18
195 Erroneous Areticus
-
f4 * 8
196 Wall of Errors
-
f4 7
197 Crackaway
-
f2+ 22
198 Pocket Wall f3+ 4
199 Bentley's Arete
-
f3+ * 17
  North West Buttress
201 Pitcher Crack S 9
202 Hagworm VS 4b 9
203 Friar Wall
-
HS 4b 14
204 Tuck
-
D 19
205 North West Girdle
-
S 4b 2
  Final Buttress
207 Lock Up
-
f3 3
208 Wriggle Up
-
f3+ 4
209 Double Mantelshelf
-
f5+ 1
210 Blockton Way
-
f3 8
211 Block and Tackle
-
f2+ 10
  Unsorted Climbs
213 Yellow Toes V1 * 1
214 Yellow Toes Direct V0 * 1
215 I am the breeze V3 ** 1
216 Scoon Wall MVS 5a ** 1
217 Briscoe Crack VS 4c 4
218 Howgill Wall S 4c 2
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book

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