Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

The south-facing aspect of Crickmail's compact exposed walls provide the visitor with a good number of quality 20m+ routes, including classics such as the ever-popular Aero (VS), and B-Team Buttress (E1). It's a long-ish walk-in, as it falls roughly halfway between the two possible car parks, but it is well worth the effort, especially if you extend your time in the area by nipping across to Mewsford, or Triple Overhang. The previous guide book implied high numbers of sheep suicides on this cliff; the intervening years have seen a marked decrease in this malodorous activity.

Approach notes

Tidal platform on the lower tier. Reached from St Govans or Stack Rocks. From St Govans, it is 500m past the second fence line, and just W of an obvious grassy gully leading down to a boulder beach - Seaside Gully. Abseil or scramble down to the lower tier, or take the non-tidal mid-tier.

Access Advice

A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.

There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer,  climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July.  Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28).  The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year.

(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 Rasberry Ripple
-
E2 5a 5b  
3 Marina
-
E3 5c *  
4 Good Companions
-
E4 5c 5a  
5 Opening Night
-
E2 5b 5c * 13
  South Face Lower Tier
7 Trapeze E2 5b 5a 11
8 Cloud Nine,hang ten
-
E2 5b * 7
9 Bounty
-
HVS 5a * 27
10 Sun People HVS 5a 1
11 Soft Centre
-
HS 4b 5
12 Yorkie
-
VS 4b 1
13 C.D.M
-
HS 4b 5
14 Milky Way
-
S 4b  
15 Galaxy VS 3
16 D-Day Landings
-
HVS 5b 13
17 N.A.T.O forces
-
E1 5b 4
  South Face Upper Tier
19 The Sizzler E1 5b * 2
20 Snap, Popple and Crack VS 4b 41
21 Crunchy VS 4b * 103
22 krispie crack
-
VS 4c 40
23 Three Shreaded Wheat
-
E3 5c  
24 Catch VS 4b * 126
25 Read between the Lines E2 5b 1
26 B-Team Buttress E1 5b ** 304
27 Aero VS 5a ** 302
28 Beggar Man
-
E2 5c 8
29 Tinker Tailor HVS 5a * 117
30 The Bouncer
-
HVS 5a 14
31 Marathon HVS 5a * 79
32 The Jogger HVS 5a 7
33 The Swinger
-
E2 5c  
34 Police Brutality HS 4b 17
35 Slipway S 4a * 50
36 Winter Sun HS 4c 6
37 Warsaw Pact S 4b 10
38 Fingerpicking
-
VS 4c 5
39 Cheese Please E1 5c 5
  East Face
41 Turtles Progress
-
E1 5a 5b 1
42 A Present from the Valley
-
VS 4b 4c  
43 Special Communiques
-
E3 5c  
44 Malice Aforethought
-
HVS 5a * 29
45 Malice Afterthought
-
HVS 5a 1
46 A Town Like Malice
-
E3 5c  
47 Satisfaction
-
E7 6b  
48 Eastern Gully
-
VS 5a  
49 Friction Addiction
-
E5 6b  
50 Emotional Rescue
-
E3 5c  
51 Sidewinder
-
VS 4c  
  Traverses
53 Secret Stratoshere HVS 5a 1
54 Footloose and Fancy Free HVS  
  seaside Gully
56 Flaked out E3 5c * 1

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