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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 359m a.s.l
Faces S

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The late and great Dave Gregory climbing the Trident at Harborough Rocks © Chris Craggs

Crag features

A delightful, open mini-edge around 6m high. Along with Rainster Rocks offers a unique experience of climbing on dolomitic limestone, a highly pocketed, juggy rock. Super soloing or family picnic venue in summer (if you can zone out the factory noise). Nothing too hard except the short but sharp VSs, and if you don't like polish... Best routes are Steeple Arete (VD), Trident Arete (HD) and Creased Wall (VS 4c). Other strange shaped pinnacles in the area to explore and some low-grade bouldering on both tiers. Breezy and therefore midge-free and quick-drying. The cave is wet and slimy. Make sure you have wipes and hand gel!

Approach notes

From Longcliffe (SK 227557) on the B5056 head south for Brassington. After 3/4 mile turn left and in a similar distance the edge will be seen on the left. Follow footpath which starts just after the 'Brickworks'.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Road is closed just in front of the car park until Sept 2017. Best access currently is from the opposite side that the concrete factory. Park in layby (enough for 3 cars) and follow the dissused railway line to the crag.
pagey198 - 05/Aug/17
Polished... Polished... Polished! What else can be said.
Jordanh031 - 21/Apr/14
Parking is realy close to the rock just a bit right of the quarry as a warning though if you go in the week the quarry is realy noisy so best to wait till the weekend. from the carpark area (suitable for about five cars) its a short walk to the rocks. The rocks themself are realy nice to climb and there realy is something for all the family. Theres plenty of places for protection while climbing and when you get to the top more than enough to setup a few top ropes and let them get on with it.
ophielle - 17/Jun/11
Great little crag once you zone out the (noisy) factory below. Giant holds abound and natural protection appears relatively reliable for a limestone venue. Polish was present in places but was considerably better than somewhere like Hutton Roof. I'll be back
davidparkinson - 22/Feb/11
Was I having a good day after a long time on the grit or is the whole crag undergraded?
fenclimb - 06/Jul/05
Very cute place, pity about the factory below. Best boulder problem is the obvious smooth wall some yards left of Creased Wall - fingery V2-ish direct up the centre.
Fiend1 - 14/Jan/05
Climbing here is great - lots to do, some good routes with interesting things to hang off and an excellent place to learn to set belays, lead etc. But dont expect a peaceful 'get away from it all' experience as the Brickworks emits a steady stream of earsplitting noise! Arghhhhhhh!
Patrick Carmichael - 12/Sep/04
According to the OS maps, this crag is spelt Harboro Rocks. Popoular with groups.
Paul - 17/Apr/03
the guide book refers to two rusting water tanks when it talks about how to find the cave at the lefh hand edge. These are no longer there. But the whole area isnt that big if you follow the footpath up to the edge and walk a few meters to the left the cave is very easy to find
annie - 13/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Steeple
2 Blinding Lights f7B+ *  
3 Banana Face f7B+ * 3
4 The Swarm f8A+ **  
  The Cave
6 Introductory Wall D 497
7 Cave Buttress Arete D 72
8 Cave crack VD 135
9 Cave Chimney S 4a 180
10 Skylight Chimney VD * 178
11 Gobbler's Roof E7 6c * 2
12 Into the Light f4 2
13 Overhanging Wall Variant VD ** 756
14 Overhanging Wall S 4b ** 517
15 Overhang Wall Direct VD * 88
16 Overhanging Chimney Direct S 4a ** 386
17 Overhanging Chimney Indirect VD 220
18 Pockets S 4c 381
19 Cracks HVS 5b 181
20 Jug VS 5a * 479
21 Jug Right-hand f4+ * 75
22 Pedestal Crack S 4a * 708
23 Concave Wall HVD 4a * 549
24 Steeple Arete VD * 841
25 The missing link V6 * 6
26 Arachnid V3 15
27 Spider Chimney HVD 3c * 266
28 <New route claim>Unknown 4 HS 4c * 29
29 Harborough Crack HS 4b * 217
30 Orange Peel none 5c 12
31 Little Arete D 522
32 Useful Gully Arete f4 * 53
33 Bow Ridge VD 440
34 Bow Corner HVD 378
35 Bow-Shaped Wall VS 5a 286
36 Suzannes shoulder MS 4a 30
Climb name Grade
37 Bow Arete D 557
38 Bow Arete Right f4 110
39 Holey Slab * S 4b 1
  Creased Wall
41 Pocketed wall 1 f3 31
42 Pocketed Wall 2 f3+ 39
43 Pocketed Wall 3 f3 39
44 Pocketed Wall 4 f3 * 37
45 Terrace Wall, Left Arete
-
f4+ 3
46 Thin Air VS 4b * 477
47 Creased Wall HVS 5a ** 317
48 Crinkle Crack HS 4b * 478
49 Steep Ridge VD * 708
50 Little Gully D 385
51 Adderley's Route D 322
52 Little Adder f3 4
53 The Furrow S 4b 261
  Trident Buttress
55 The Blaster HVS 5b 271
56 Little Diagonal VD 323
57 Little Corner VD 292
58 Little Crack S 4b * 432
59 Little Wall VS 4b 73
60 Little Little Crack VD 377
61 Little Chimney M 339
62 Chimney Arete VD 323
63 Scooped Wall VD 346
64 Scooped Direct HVS 5a 71
65 <New route claim> Bec E1 5b * 25
66 Desperation S 4a 282
67 <New route claim> Leesey Peasy S 4a 12
68 Trident Face VD * 675
69 Trident Eliminate HS 4b * 570
70 Trident Groove VD * 773
71 Trident Arete VD * 993
72 Trident Obverse D 262
Climb name Grade
  The Arete
74 Shorty f4+ 121
75 Mantel Wall f4 136
76 Cracked Wall HVS 5b 205
77 -New route claim- Unknown HS 4b 14
78 Overhanging Crack VS 5a 293
79 -New route claim- Unknown 2 VD 15
80 The Arete S 4a * 609
81 The Arete (Direct Start) S 4b 36
82 Blinkers VS 5a * 298
83 Legs Over VS 4b * 389
  Lower Tier boulder problems
85 Left Bulge f5 * 117
86 Right Bulge f5 * 130
87 Cracked Arete f3 151
88 Slab Wall f5 123
89 Flake Mantel f3 * 157
90 Cod Eye Wall f5 106
91 Cod Belly V0+ 5a 20
92 Groovy V0- * 14
93 Groove Arete f4+ * 30
94 Sharp Bulge f5 104
95 Flake Sitter Left f3+ * 137
96 Flake Sitter f4+ * 115
97 Final Wall f3 123
98 Bulge Traverse V3 5
  Unknown Problems and Routes
100 Dudley
-
V2 * 1
101 Cristiana Swing
-
S 4a  
  Little Buttress
103 Pockets Traverse f5+ 2
104 Noodle's Arete V2 4
105 Noodle's Wall V4 3
106 Holey Arete * S 4a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond