UKC

Climbs 94
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 359m a.s.l
Faces S

An evening of climbing © Wendy14

Crag features

A delightful, open mini-edge around 6m high. Along with Rainster Rocks offers a unique experience of climbing on dolomitic limestone, a highly pocketed, juggy rock. Super soloing or family picnic venue in summer (if you can zone out the factory noise). Nothing too hard except the short but sharp VSs, and if you don't like polish... Best routes are Steeple Arete (VD), Trident Arete (HD) and Creased Wall (VS 4c). Other strange shaped pinnacles in the area to explore and some low-grade bouldering on both tiers. Breezy and therefore midge-free and quick-drying. The cave is wet and slimy. Make sure you have wipes and hand gel!

Approach notes

From Longcliffe (SK 227557) on the B5056 head south for Brassington. After 3/4 mile turn left and in a similar distance the edge will be seen on the left. Follow footpath which starts just after the 'Brickworks'.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Road is closed just in front of the car park until Sept 2017. Best access currently is from the opposite side that the concrete factory. Park in layby (enough for 3 cars) and follow the dissused railway line to the crag.
pagey198 - 05/Aug/17
Polished... Polished... Polished! What else can be said.
Jordanh031 - 21/Apr/14
Parking is realy close to the rock just a bit right of the quarry as a warning though if you go in the week the quarry is realy noisy so best to wait till the weekend. from the carpark area (suitable for about five cars) its a short walk to the rocks. The rocks themself are realy nice to climb and there realy is something for all the family. Theres plenty of places for protection while climbing and when you get to the top more than enough to setup a few top ropes and let them get on with it.
ophielle - 17/Jun/11
Great little crag once you zone out the (noisy) factory below. Giant holds abound and natural protection appears relatively reliable for a limestone venue. Polish was present in places but was considerably better than somewhere like Hutton Roof. I'll be back
davidparkinson - 22/Feb/11
Was I having a good day after a long time on the grit or is the whole crag undergraded?
fenclimb - 06/Jul/05
Very cute place, pity about the factory below. Best boulder problem is the obvious smooth wall some yards left of Creased Wall - fingery V2-ish direct up the centre.
Fiend1 - 14/Jan/05
Climbing here is great - lots to do, some good routes with interesting things to hang off and an excellent place to learn to set belays, lead etc. But dont expect a peaceful 'get away from it all' experience as the Brickworks emits a steady stream of earsplitting noise! Arghhhhhhh!
Patrick Carmichael - 12/Sep/04
According to the OS maps, this crag is spelt Harboro Rocks. Popoular with groups.
Paul - 17/Apr/03
the guide book refers to two rusting water tanks when it talks about how to find the cave at the lefh hand edge. These are no longer there. But the whole area isnt that big if you follow the footpath up to the edge and walk a few meters to the left the cave is very easy to find
annie - 13/Apr/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Steeple
2 Blinding Lights f7B+ *  
3 Banana Face f7B+ * 2
4 The Swarm f8A+ **  
  The Cave
6 Introductory Wall D 459
7 Cave Chimney S 4a 168
8 Gobbler's Roof E7 6c *  
9 Skylight Chimney VD * 166
10 Cave Buttress Arete D 59
11 Cave crack VD 124
12 Overhang Wall Direct VD * 77
13 Overhanging Wall Variant VD ** 690
14 Overhanging Wall S 4b ** 462
15 Overhanging Chimney Direct S 4a ** 349
16 Overhanging Chimney Indirect VD 209
17 Pockets S 4c 355
18 Cracks HVS 5b 167
19 Jug VS 5a * 447
20 Jug Right-hand f4+ * 59
21 Pedestal Crack S 4a * 642
22 Concave Wall HVD 4a * 499
23 Steeple Arete VD * 761
24 The missing link V6 * 4
25 Arachnid V3 12
26 Spider Chimney HVD 3c * 242
27 <New route claim>Unknown 4 HS 4c * 26
28 Harborough Crack HS 4b * 198
29 Orange Peel none 5c 10
30 Little Arete D 483
31 Useful Gully Arete f4 * 43
32 Bow Ridge VD 407
33 Bow Corner HVD 341
34 Bow-Shaped Wall VS 5a 256
Climb name Grade
35 Suzannes shoulder MS 4a 22
  Creased Wall
37 Bow Arete D 506
38 Bow Arete Right f4 83
39 Pocketed wall 1 f3 27
40 Pocketed Wall 2 f3+ 31
41 Pocketed Wall 3 f3 30
42 Pocketed Wall 4 f3 * 29
43 Thin Air VS 4b * 438
44 Creased Wall HVS 5a ** 300
45 Crinkle Crack HS 4b * 438
46 Steep Ridge VD * 663
47 Little Gully D 350
48 Adderley's Route D 287
49 The Furrow S 4b 251
  Trident Buttress
51 The Blaster HVS 5b 255
52 Little Diagonal VD 287
53 Little Corner VD 278
54 Little Crack S 4b * 403
55 Little Wall VS 4b 61
56 Little Little Crack VD 348
57 Little Chimney M 315
58 Chimney Arete VD 291
59 Scooped Wall VD 319
60 Scooped Direct HVS 5a 59
61 <New route claim> Bec E1 5b * 25
62 Desperation S 4a 260
63 <New route claim> Leesey Peasy S 4a 11
64 Trident Face VD * 621
65 Trident Eliminate HS 4b * 509
66 Trident Groove VD * 710
67 Trident Arete VD * 908
68 Trident Obverse D 239
Climb name Grade
  The Arete
70 Shorty f4+ 97
71 Mantel Wall f4 114
72 Cracked Wall HVS 5b 194
73 -New route claim- Unknown HS 4b 12
74 Overhanging Crack VS 5a 275
75 -New route claim- Unknown 2 VD 14
76 The Arete S 4a * 572
77 The Arete (Direct Start) S 4b 18
78 Blinkers VS 5a * 279
79 Legs Over VS 4b * 358
  Lower Tier boulder problems
81 Left Bulge f5 * 99
82 Right Bulge f5 * 109
83 Cracked Arete f3 119
84 Slab Wall f5 103
85 Flake Mantel f3 * 122
86 Cod Eye Wall f5 91
87 Cod Belly V0+ 5a 15
88 Groovy V0- * 10
89 Groove Arete f4+ * 23
90 Sharp Bulge f5 90
91 Flake Sitter Left f3+ * 115
92 Flake Sitter f4+ * 99
93 Final Wall f3 101
94 Bulge Traverse V3 3
  Unknown Problems and Routes
96 Dudley
-
V2 * 1
97 Cristiana Swing
-
S 4a 1
  Little Buttress
99 Pockets Traverse f5+ 2
100 Noodle's Arete V2 2
101 Noodle's Wall V4 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond