Climbs 48
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces all

Crag features

This page covers all the crags (major and minor) within the Abermawr area.

Llech Dafad - a big atmospheric crag with steep routes on rock of varying quality. All grades and descriptions should be treated with caution, especially when pegs are mentioned.

Carreg Aber Bach - a steep crag with 2 impressive lines above a huge sea cave. Check fixed gear before ascents.

Carreg Golchfa - a few minor routes found on the promontory north of the northern most headland at Aber Bach.

Morfa Slabs - some very overgrown climbs, to the west of Abermawr. Found beneath the coast path.

Penmorfa - a few routes below the impressive Iron Age Fort (Castell Coch).

Trwyn Llwynog - 300m west of Penmorfa is some more slab climbs.

Approach notes

Llech Dafad approach - park at Aberbach beach, approximately 200m from end of road. Take the path to Aberbach beach and cross the beach where the coast path can be accessed leading north (stream crossing needed). After 750m, stile 123 is reached with the crag below this.

Carreg Aber Bach approach - from Aber Bach follow the coast path north for 500m. Pass some wooden posts on the right and immediately cross vegetated slopes towards a small promontory north of a large cave.

Penmorfa approach - follow the coast path to the first promontory 800m west of Abermawr and 250m west of Morfa Slabs. Routes on the northwest corner of the headland. (Penmorfa Slab, on the west side of headland).

Trwyn Llwynog approach - 300m west of Penmorfa is another headland, beyond which the coast changes orientation from west to north. On the west of the bay (Porth Mawr) are some slabs. The far west corner of the headland has some more routes. After Penmorfa the path swings right towards the next headland. For the slabs walk through vegetation from the first sharp left hand bend, or for the next venue, turn right at the next left hand bend towards the western extremity of the promontory.


Seasonal Restrictions

-- Voluntary climbing restriction for nesting sea birds from March 1st to August 1st

-- Please do not climb here if seals present from July to December as it is pupping season.

Access Advice

Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Llech Dafad 
2The WillVD  
3Pinnacle GrooveVS 4c  
4BlackoutE5 6a * 
5Conchoidal FractureE3 5c * 
6Been to Hell and BackE6 6c  
7DarkinvaderE5 6b  
8Sticky FingersE5 6a  
9Comfortably NumbE3 6a * 
10Muffin ManHVS 5a  
11Captain BeakyHVS 5a  
12White StepsVS 4c  
13AcceleratorE1 5b  
14Dream ChaserE1 5c  
15Spare RibE1 5c  
16Total Exclusion ZoneE2 5b  
17The FulmarE1 5b  
18Goose GreenE3 5c * 
19Clinging to the WreckageE3 5c(a1)  
20Beastly BehaviourE5 6a  
21Green Lipped MusselE1 5b  
22StagefrightHVS 5a  
23Yo Ho HoF6b s2  
24AnonF5 s1 * 
 Carreg Aber Bach 
26Fighting SpiritE6 6c * 
27Fighting ChanceE5 6a ** 
 Carreg Golchfa 
29GabbroS 4a  
30Seal SlabS 4a  
31Black SlabVD  
 Morfa Slabs 
33Slit Finger Slab IndirectHVS 4c  
34Great SlabHVS 4b  
35PickpocketVS 4b(a1)  
36Crab's CrawlVS 4b  
38Black CornerD  
39Overlapping WallS  
40Penmorfa SlabHVS 4c  
41Headland CornerHS 4b  
 Trwyn Llwynog Slab 
43Wynog SlabVS 4b  
44Noggin AreteHS 4b  
45Bloody CornerVS 4c  
 Trwyn Llwynog West 
47Bloody NoseHS 4a  
48AmyneddgarHVS 5a  

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