Climbs 48
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces all

Crag features

This page covers all the crags (major and minor) within the Abermawr area.

Llech Dafad - a big atmospheric crag with steep routes on rock of varying quality. All grades and descriptions should be treated with caution, especially when pegs are mentioned.

Carreg Aber Bach - a steep crag with 2 impressive lines above a huge sea cave. Check fixed gear before ascents.

Carreg Golchfa - a few minor routes found on the promontory north of the northern most headland at Aber Bach.

Morfa Slabs - some very overgrown climbs, to the west of Abermawr. Found beneath the coast path.

Penmorfa - a few routes below the impressive Iron Age Fort (Castell Coch).

Trwyn Llwynog - 300m west of Penmorfa is some more slab climbs.

Approach notes

Llech Dafad approach - park at Aberbach beach, approximately 200m from end of road. Take the path to Aberbach beach and cross the beach where the coast path can be accessed leading north (stream crossing needed). After 750m, stile 123 is reached with the crag below this.

Carreg Aber Bach approach - from Aber Bach follow the coast path north for 500m. Pass some wooden posts on the right and immediately cross vegetated slopes towards a small promontory north of a large cave.

Penmorfa approach - follow the coast path to the first promontory 800m west of Abermawr and 250m west of Morfa Slabs. Routes on the northwest corner of the headland. (Penmorfa Slab, on the west side of headland).

Trwyn Llwynog approach - 300m west of Penmorfa is another headland, beyond which the coast changes orientation from west to north. On the west of the bay (Porth Mawr) are some slabs. The far west corner of the headland has some more routes. After Penmorfa the path swings right towards the next headland. For the slabs walk through vegetation from the first sharp left hand bend, or for the next venue, turn right at the next left hand bend towards the western extremity of the promontory.

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Seasonal Restrictions

-- Voluntary climbing restriction for nesting sea birds from March 1st to August 1st

-- Please do not climb here if seals present from July to December as it is pupping season.

Access Advice

Some of the rock here is very loose and pegs may be missing or in very poor condition. The top is also very overgrown at present making it very difficult to get to the abseil points.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Variable restriction can apply - see on-site signing. There is usually a restriction from 1st March - 1st August.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Llech Dafad
2 The Will VD  
3 Pinnacle Groove VS 4c  
4 Blackout E5 6a *  
5 Conchoidal Fracture E3 5c *  
6 Been to Hell and Back E6 6c  
7 Darkinvader E5 6b  
8 Sticky Fingers E5 6a  
9 Comfortably Numb E3 6a *  
10 Muffin Man HVS 5a  
11 Captain Beaky HVS 5a  
12 White Steps VS 4c  
13 Accelerator E1 5b  
14 Dream Chaser E1 5c  
15 Spare Rib E1 5c  
16 Total Exclusion Zone E2 5b  
17 The Fulmar E1 5b  
18 Goose Green E3 5c *  
19 Clinging to the Wreckage E3 5c(a1)  
20 Beastly Behaviour E5 6a  
21 Green Lipped Mussel E1 5b  
22 Stagefright HVS 5a  
23 Yo Ho Ho 6b s2  
24 Anon 5a s1 *  
  Carreg Aber Bach
26 Fighting Spirit E6 6c *  
27 Fighting Chance E5 6a **  
  Carreg Golchfa
29 Gabbro S 4a  
30 Seal Slab S 4a  
31 Black Slab VD  
  Morfa Slabs
33 Slit Finger Slab Indirect HVS 4c  
34 Great Slab HVS 4b  
35 Pickpocket VS 4b(a1)  
36 Crab's Crawl VS 4b  
  Penmorfa
38 Black Corner D  
39 Overlapping Wall S  
40 Penmorfa Slab HVS 4c  
41 Headland Corner HS 4b  
  Trwyn Llwynog Slab
43 Wynog Slab VS 4b  
44 Noggin Arete HS 4b  
45 Bloody Corner VS 4c  
  Trwyn Llwynog West
47 Bloody Nose HS 4a  
48 Amyneddgar HVS 5a  

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