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Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 28
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

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Latest attempt on Clotted Cream - in sweltering March weather. © Brian H

Crag features

A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.

Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps. Some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing a set up line to build your belays from the remaining trees further back. 2011

Very useful photo-topo here...

Thanks Kafoozalem!

Approach notes

From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.

Access Problem Torbay Council are working on this crag No Access for 4 weeks from 4th March 2014.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!
Captainbobcat - 29/Sep/10
Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.
Karriless - 19/Apr/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Crag
2 Fynnigan D 9
3 Central Slabs VD 259
4 Diamond Rib HS 4a * 466
5 Mayday VD 145
6 Nervous Laughter E1 5b 46
7 Third Time Lucky HVS 5a * 82
8 Demeter E1 5b 42
9 Ken's Route E3 5b * 6
10 Median Lucky E1 5b * 63
Climb name Grade
11 Median HVS 5a * 158
12 Grand Slam E2 5b 24
13 Revolver E1 5b 94
14 Rubber Soul HVS 5a 69
15 Nest Egg S 4a * 288
16 Tree Root VD * 166
17 Rampant E3 5b * 3
18 Pegs Progress E3 5c ** 55
19 Drop Zone E6 6c * 1
20 Fawlty Towers E3 6a ** 2
Climb name Grade
21 Clotted Cream E4 6a ** 37
22 Rainyday A1 3
23 Hermeda
VS 4b 109
24 Malingerer
VD 40
25 Hypochondriac VD 2
26 The Meadfoot Girdle E2 5c * 5
  Seaward Pinnacle
28 Lamb's Tail 3a 3
29 Gulliver D 9
30 Pig's Ear S 4a 3

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