Climbs 23
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 52m a.s.l
Faces NW

Another Durham Drinker (kevinknights) at Kepier. © saph

Crag features

Very much a local crag - very plesant setting by the river Wear. Varied bouldering with natural lines up to about 6a/b, around 5 metres [yes 5, not 50! - Ed.] high and about 20m long. Many eliminates and traverses possible and often done. Dries fairly quickly, but can be a touch dirty after rain or in the winter - bring a toothbrush. The crag is above the main path which can be muddy, so bring a mat/bar-towel to stand on. [Dave Parry]

[Crag coordinates corrected, we hope, 6/05; further accuracy welcomed - UKC Ed]

No current guidebook (still waiting for a new "North East England"); in the mean time, Climb Online have a useful mini-pdf guide: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/TyneWearMiniGuides/Kepier%20Woods%202011Sept18.pdf [This is the current version, and the grades have been updated to account for the switch to Font bouldering grades. Should be more consistent (no more odd trad grades), but some are still suspect (The Overhanging Nose f6C feels overly generous/plain wrong). Feedback welcome - Mod, 18-Apr-2015]

Approach notes

About 5 mins walk from the Gilesgate turn-off on the A690, which itself is a few minutes from junction 62 of the A1. However I can't imagine anyone driving very far to get here... More usefully, the crag is about 40 mins walk from the town centre.

Access Advice

The landowners have hisorically objected to climbing.

Guidebooks

Keiper is on the edge of a public footpath. I have seen no signs or attempts to restrict the climbing of this crag 30/09/04
Mark Atkinson - 30/Sep/04
apparantly kepier is out of bounds due to access problems. If they're resolved would you let me know?
James Knight - 17/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dids f2 47
2 The Undercuts
-
f3+ 32
3 Crucial Knee Jam f4+ 31
4 Hard Labour f3+ 54
5 Work Shy f4 46
6 Independence f4 26
7 Sidewinder f5+ 13
8 Ferret f2+ 44
9 Double Overhangs f5 31
10 Bobbery John f2 41
11 Fitchen f2 46
12 The Ghost of Mr Angry f4 19
13 Hob Hole f2 35
14 Tea-break Crack f2 24
15 Thatcherism f6A+ 4
16 You Nick'ed My Heart V5 6b 2
17 Maggie The Whip f4+ 9
18 Major f6A+ ?? 3
19 Shorts Crack f4 30
20 The Overhanging Nose f6C 23
21 Dead Fit Bird f6A+ 8
22 The Jazz Butcher Variation f6B 7
23 Dids Two
-
HS 4b 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kyaizawa