Climbs 6
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag features
Small but imposing steep crag, 800 metres east of Raven's Rock. The crag is of Moine schist and is strongly folded into an anticline resulting in many parallel cracks and ramps tilted up rightwards. The two older routes are currently ivy covered but the centre of the crag is clean and marked by a line of overhangs. Protection is almost exclusively by cams.
The easiest way both to the crag crest and descent is from a grassy gully directly above two marked trees prior to reaching the crag. There are two fixed belays along the crest, above Excalibur and further along above a grass/moss platform around a big tree, above Merlins Magic, Guinevere and Camelot.
It is also possible to descend to the right facing out from the crag crest at the far end.
Approach notes
Sheet 20 47306.59897 alt 165m
Follow the FC road past the saw mill for about a mile (bikes). On left at 47421.60306 are a group of pines; follow orange tree markers up the hill (boggy in places). The trees are well marked and on the approach keep left and up to follow an evolving path. This goes under a pair of fallen birches, follows a short heathery section on the left near root plates, goes under 'the triumphal arch' reaches a large pine before heading sharp right, we'll marked before exiting onto the path that runs left towards the crag. Follow this, under a fallen pine and emerge below the crag apron where a mossy 'gully' leads to the grass ledge that runs below the Red Wall that contains Excalibur, Merlins Magic and the top pitches of Guinevere and Camelot. The short lower pitches can be reached via a heather ramp from this grass ledge.
No Access Issues
No issues noted
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Climbs at this crag
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