Climbs 12
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2537m a.s.l
Faces all

Alexander starts the first pitch. © ripsawridge

Crag features

The south face of the Schüsselkarspitze is the most important face on the south side of the Wetterstein massif and one of the most important faces for rock climbers in all of Austria. 800m wide and up to 400m high it is home to over fourty rock climbs, predominantly in the grades from VI upwards.

Amongst the classic routes are the Direct South Face or Rainer/Aschenbrenner (VII), the South East Face or Peters/Harringer (VI+), Bayerischer Traum (VIII-) and Locker vom Hocker (VIII), the best known of the harder routes, first ascended in 1981 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. Hermann Buhl devoted a chapter of Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage to the Schüsselkarspitze. It is also the home crag of Heinz Zak, who has established a number of hard new routes here.

Approach notes

Approach from either the Wangalm or the Wetterstein huts (both private, no alpine club discount), just a few minutes from one another and 1 hour's walk from the valley. The walk-in from here is another 1.5 hours. Park in the Leutasch Valley after the road toll.

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2 Siemens/Wolf IV 1
3 Erdenkäufer/Sigl VI ** 2
  South Face
5 Locker vom Hocker VIII  
Climb name Grade
6 Meßner/Sint VI+  
7 Spindler Route VI  
8 Jörg/Simon VI+ ** 1
9 Bayerischer Traum VIII-  
10 Vogelfrei X  
Climb name Grade
11 Supernova
12 Rainer/Aschenbrenner VII *** 3
13 Peters/Haringer VI 2
14 Brandstaeter *
V+ 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate Schusselkarspitze
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]