Altitude 2537m a.s.l
Alexander starts the first pitch. © ripsawridge
The south face of the Schüsselkarspitze is the most important face on the south side of the Wetterstein massif and one of the most important faces for rock climbers in all of Austria. 800m wide and up to 400m high it is home to over fourty rock climbs, predominantly in the grades from VI upwards.
Amongst the classic routes are the Direct South Face or Rainer/Aschenbrenner (VII), the South East Face or Peters/Harringer (VI+), Bayerischer Traum (VIII-) and Locker vom Hocker (VIII), the best known of the harder routes, first ascended in 1981 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. Hermann Buhl devoted a chapter of Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage to the Schüsselkarspitze. It is also the home crag of Heinz Zak, who has established a number of hard new routes here.
Approach from either the Wangalm or the Wetterstein huts (both private, no alpine club discount), just a few minutes from one another and 1 hour's walk from the valley. The walk-in from here is another 1.5 hours. Park in the Leutasch Valley after the road toll.
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|5||Locker vom Hocker||VIII|