Climbs 13
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces NE

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Crag features

A little amphitheatre facing the fork of roads opposite the pub in the tiny village of Hoath Corner. Several buttresses about 6m high, broken up by some fine (and not-so-fine) cracks. The rock quality is extremely variable: some is very solid, some is treacherously loose, most is in need of a clean. Parts of the top of the crag have an unpleasant cap of mud - soloists be warned!

As with all Southern Sandstone, top-roping and soloing/bouldering are the only accepted methods of ascent. Tree belays are fairly plentiful here but can be tricky to set up due to the mud. Make sure you extend the anchor so no moving rope is in contact with the rock.

The pub (the Rock Inn) is rather good and has beer from local brewer Larkins.

Approach notes

The land is private but climbers appear to be tolerated - although the fairly public setting could lead to some strange stares from locals.

It is best to park at the pub. The rocks are best accessed from the right-hand fork in the road by scrabbling through some trees to reach a descent leading to the left-hand side of the crag.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Crack Addict none 5c 1
2 In It for the Crack none 5a 2
3 Fat Crack
-
none 4c  
4 Mitochondria
-
none 5b 1
5 Sand in my Crack
-
none 5c  
Climb name Grade
6 Black Crack
-
none 5a  
7 Fat Boy and Stupid none 3b 1
8 Mark's Expanding Muffin Tops none 4a 1
9 Wot No Crack
-
none 5b  
10 Splitter Crack
-
none 5b  
Climb name Grade
11 Ogre Crack
-
none 4b  
12 I'm just a Love Machine none 5a 1
13 Broken Tombstone f7A 1

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