Climbs 20
Rocktype Ice

Faces W

The Daren © timjones

Crag features

*** Best Winter Crag in S.Wales. Park on Road not at Farm climbing permitted only between 1st Dec and 28th Feb.

Sporting grades III to V+. All major icefalls have been climbed. This extensive cliff has a steady seepage of water over most of its length, which, when frozen provides some of the best sustained water ice climbing in South Wales. The cliff can be found some four miles north of Llanfihengel Crucorney on the east bank of the Vale of Ewyas.

To reach the cliff follow the B4423 north from Llanfihengel Crucorney following signs for Llanthony Priory, or south from Hay on Wye over the Gospel Pass. Limited parking is available on the B4423 near the entrance track leading to the Daren Farm ( G R 289243). From here follow the track for 500m until behind the Daren Farm, head north for 200m to reach a fence, follow this east over difficult boulder strewn ground to reach the base of the cliff. King Koflack and the Coconuts follows the first prominent ice filled groove system from the left hand edge of the cliff.

It is important to observe the access restriction on this cliff detailed below.

Approach notes

The cliff is a site of Special Scientific Interest because of rare plants and wildlife. The land owner has granted permission o climber between 1st December and 28th February, providing the cliff is in good winter climbing condition. Climbing is not permitted at any other time. This arrangement is for a trial period only during the 1996/7 season. It is essential to comply with this restriction in order to secure future access.

What's the current access aragement here? I had a look at the BMC RAD but couldn't see the crag on there...?
Sparrowmonkey - 18/Jan/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  First prominent ice filled groove system from the left hand edge
2 King Koflach and the Coconuts IV 2
3 Lewie Lewie IV  
4 Kolfack the Cat IV  
5 Son of Koflack III 4
6 Jaws and the Terradactyls IV  
7 Dancing in the Rain IV  
8 Hollow Head be Thy Name IV  
9 Garfields Groove IV  
10 The Great White IV  
  The base of the cliff now rises where a large mound abuts
12 Sebastian Dangerfield IV  
13 Feline in the Treeline IV  
14 The Promised Land III  
  The left hand corner of the wall is taken by Kangaroo Corner
16 Kangeroo Corner III  
17 Tools you can Trust III  
18 Fatal Attraction III  
  The following routes ascend the impressive icefall on the right
20 Dupuytrens Contracture IV  
21 The Ice Queen IV  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU