Climbs 81
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 739m a.s.l
Faces all

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Dan O'neill top-roping his project on Bearnagh's Summit Tor with a High Altitude Crystal Halo in the sky above. © Hillerscapes

Crag features

The climbing on Bearnagh's tors varies widely from short boulder problems to long pitches on the east face of the Summit Tor. The situation is tremendous, overlooking the higher Mourne peaks and the Ben Crom reservoir.

Approach notes

Follow Trassey Track to Hares Gap and from here follow the Mourne wall to the summit of Slieve Bearnagh (1.5 hours).

Stunning location to climb and loads of quality routes, especially HVS-E2 range, could do with a little more traffic as some of the cracks are a bit grubby.
Andy Moles - 13/Apr/09
Just to confirm what my friend Conor has said, it is a slab climbers dream. The friction is unbelieveable and many of the routes can be done even when damp. Route finding through the overlaps can be fun for the inexperienced. It is northerly facing so it doesnt dry the fastest after rain and doesnt get the sun until around 1400-1500.
Michael Smith - 13/Feb/05
This place is every slab climbers dream. Favourite climb:Crooked Chimney HS although the crack before the chimney can be interesting.
Conor Mc Dermott - 21/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Slieve Bearnagh summit
-
summit 21
  North Tor
3 Belly Roll
-
VD 5
4 Hot Cakes
-
VD ** 11
5 Hot Cross Buns
-
VD 5
6 Wounded Knee
-
HVS 5a ** 7
7 Chinook Variation HS 4b 1
8 Chinook
-
VS 5a 1
9 Torture Chamber
-
E5 6b * 2
10 The Rage of Cardinal Richelieu
-
E4 6b * 1
11 Little Creatures
-
HS 4b 4
  Summit Tor
13 Work Party
-
IV 5  
14 Blistering Bill
-
VD 2
15 Petrified Pedro E1 5a * 1
16 Solitary Standing
-
E3 6a *  
17 Solitary Standing Variation E1 5b *  
18 The White Spider
-
IV 5  
19 Toewrecker
-
VS 4c 7
20 Ballachulish
-
VS 5a 2
21 Shadowline
-
HVS 5a ** 7
22 Private Investigation
-
E2 5c *** 8
23 The Body Electric
-
E2 5c ** 3
24 Small Beer
-
HVS 5a * 2
25 White Rabbit IV 4 * 1
26 Romance Dance
-
E1 5a * 2
27 Alice in Wonderland
-
HVS 5a * 7
28 The Mission
-
E2 5c **  
29 The Witness
-
E2 5c ** 1
Climb name Grade
30 Morning Dew
-
HVS 5a ** 6
31 Instigator
-
E2 5c ** 4
32 Voss
-
E1 5a ** 4
33 Puppet on a String
-
HVS 5a 1
34 Marionette
-
HVS 5a 1
35 Alberich's Curse
-
E2 5b *  
36 Discovery
-
D  
37 Hymns to the Silence
-
HVS 5a 1
38 Moving On
-
V 6  
39 Summit Sheugh
-
S *** 4
40 Manacles
-
VS 5a * 2
41 Grumphy's Groove
-
VD 1
42 Endgame
-
E3 6a  
43 Californication
-
VS 4c  
44 Kittyhawk
-
E1 5b * 3
45 Lady Rose
-
VS 4c ** 13
46 Edelweiss
-
E2 6a *** 16
47 Idlewild
-
E6 6b *** 9
48 Ready to Rumble E7 6b *** 2
49 Kicking Horse
-
HS 4b * 6
50 Too Cool for School
-
E4 6b * 1
51 Rescue Climb
-
VD 2
52 Slippery Sam
-
VS 5a 2
  Far West Tor
54 Get Rhythm
-
HVS 5a 1
55 Doan View
-
D ** 8
56 Europa
-
E2 5b  
  West Tor
58 Continuation Tor Route
-
D 1
Climb name Grade
59 East Face Route
-
S 4a 1
60 Crazy Horse
-
E2 6a *  
61 Rock Suppository
-
HVS 5a 1
  Minor Tors
63 Callisto
-
E2 6a *  
64 Mickey Mouse
-
S 7
65 Aplomb-bomb
-
E6 6b 1
66 Go on Seb E6 6b 1
  Bearnagh Slabs
68 Directissima
-
S 4a 24
69 Frockan's Route
-
D 2
70 Zen
-
E1 5b * 22
71 Crooked Chimney (Summer)
-
HS 4b *** 88
72 Crooked Chimney (Winter)
-
III 5 2
73 Grand Central (Summer)
-
VD ** 99
74 Grand Central (Winter)
-
III 5  
75 Innocence
-
E2 5c ** 5
76 Peter de Bernac
-
VS 4b ** 36
77 North Wall Climb
-
VD 4
78 High Anxiety
-
E2 5b ** 5
79 Buttercup Summers
-
E3 5b * 1
80 Hypothesis
-
S 4a ** 88
81 Crescent (Summer)
-
VS 4b * 22
82 Crescent (Winter)
-
IV 6  
83 Yosemite Days
-
S 4a 9
84 Greased Lightning
-
VD 6
85 Apocalypse Now
-
VD 11
86 Girdle Traverse
-
HS 4a 1
87 Rachel's Route
-
HVS 5a 2

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