Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite

Faces SW

Chris Georg, with feet popped off on Starco (HVS 5a), Craig Buddon, Leicestershire © Chris Georg

Crag features

Possibly the nicest crag in Leicestershire. Stays clean and dry even in winter and is set amongst glourious scenery.Best routes include Virago (E1 5a***, 17m), Trepidation (E1 5b*, 17m) and Starco (HVS 5a*, 14m). All routes are of good quality, however finding gear placements can be somewhat problematical.

Approach notes

Unofficially - it would seem climbing by small numbers of people seems to be tolerated. I was up there recently, and spoke to one of the wardens who - whilst quoting the official line of not allowing climbing, didn't ask us to leave, and seemed quite happy to leave us there climbing. [Nick Ward 6/02]

Severn Trent no longer allow access to this crag. Climbing is BANNED!

Was a very nice crag, but apparantly the measures are necessary for conservation measures. [Nick Ward 4/02]

Craig Buddon is situated at the dam end of Swithland reservoir and is visible from the weir, parking is alongside the dam itself.

Anyone visiting should be sure to descend the crag either by abseil or by walking through the woodland to the R (i.e. the reservoir side) of the crag. The slopes to the left are ecologically sensitive (Severn Trent Water is encouraging heather regeneration in the area) and should be avoided.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1DandyD 27
2CullVD 46
3Straight and NarrowHVS 5a *28
4BladeHVS 5a **7
5Go Slow
VS 4b 40
6StarcoHVS 5a *69
7Gamekeepers RefusalE1 5b 32
8Soft and Hard
VS 4b *66
9ViragoE1 5a ***89
10TrepidationHVS 5b 27
11Dusty Desire
HS 4b 73
12Future Times
HVS 5a 9
13HalcyonD 36
14HarpyD 9
15Girdle TraverseHVS 5a 4
VD 5
17The PenguinE2 5c 1
18The Bowline Cycling ClubVD 8
19Sunshine on a Rainy Day!E3 6b *1
20ScabbardE4 5c ***1
21Brothers In ArmsE5 6b * 
22Trepidation DirectE2 5b *5
23Pigeon StreetHVS 4b 1
24House of CardsHVS 4c 1

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