Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite

Faces SW

Chris Georg, with feet popped off on Starco (HVS 5a), Craig Buddon, Leicestershire © Chris Georg

Crag features

Possibly the nicest crag in Leicestershire. Stays clean and dry even in winter and is set amongst glourious scenery.Best routes include Virago (E1 5a***, 17m), Trepidation (E1 5b*, 17m) and Starco (HVS 5a*, 14m). All routes are of good quality, however finding gear placements can be somewhat problematical.

Approach notes

Unofficially - it would seem climbing by small numbers of people seems to be tolerated. I was up there recently, and spoke to one of the wardens who - whilst quoting the official line of not allowing climbing, didn't ask us to leave, and seemed quite happy to leave us there climbing. [Nick Ward 6/02]
Severn Trent no longer allow access to this crag. Climbing is BANNED!
Was a very nice crag, but apparantly the measures are necessary for conservation measures. [Nick Ward 4/02]

Climbing would appear to be banned, we were asked to leave by a man in uniform, who we assumed to be from Severn Trent. [David Steele 05/17]

Craig Buddon is situated at the dam end of Swithland reservoir and is visible from the weir, parking is alongside the dam itself.
Anyone visiting should be sure to descend the crag either by abseil or by walking through the woodland to the R (i.e. the reservoir side) of the crag. The slopes to the left are ecologically sensitive (Severn Trent Water is encouraging heather regeneration in the area) and should be avoided.

Guidebooks

Access seems a definite issue, was asked to leave by a uniformed man (presumably Severn Trent) recently.
D.Mozayen - 08/May/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dandy D 27
2 Cull VD 50
3 Straight and Narrow HVS 5a * 29
4 Blade HVS 5a ** 8
5 Go Slow
-
VS 4b 42
6 Starco HVS 5a * 74
7 Gamekeepers Refusal E1 5b 38
8 Soft and Hard
-
VS 4b * 76
9 Virago E1 5a *** 98
10 Trepidation HVS 5b 33
11 Dusty Desire
-
HS 4b 79
12 Future Times
-
HVS 5a 11
13 Halcyon D 39
14 Harpy D 9
15 Girdle Traverse HVS 5a 4
16 Woden
-
VD 5
17 The Penguin E2 5c 2
18 The Bowline Cycling Club VD 8
19 Sunshine on a Rainy Day! E3 6b * 1
20 Scabbard E4 5c *** 1
21 Brothers In Arms E5 6b *  
22 Trepidation Direct E2 5b * 5
23 Pigeon Street HVS 4b 2
24 House of Cards HVS 4c 1

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