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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 86
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 344m a.s.l
Faces all

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Hen Mountain the Mournes © auld al

Crag features

An easily accessible playground of granite tors with some very good slabby routes. A lovely place to climb, though quite exposed and windy.

Most of the climbs on Hen are single pitch, although there are some longer excursions which are no harder than HS. In places it is possible to climb the slabs almost anywhere at a similar grade, so individual routes are not listed. There are also far more problems and short routes than are officially recorded - the place rewards meandering solo.

The rock is generally clean and sound but there is often not much protection to be found (including for belays), so many of the routes tend to get soloed or top roped.

Approach notes

Walk along the track which leads between Hen Mountain and Rocky Mountain. The uncool landowners strictly forbid dogs.

Approach time: 20mins

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Tor
2 Aryan
-
S 4a 18
3 Paper Friends
-
VS 4b 15
4 Common Route M 26
5 Common Arete M 49
6 Jim's Jaunt
-
VD * 90
7 The Merry Ploughboy
-
VD 86
8 Uncertainty
-
D 69
9 Bumblebee Tuna E3 6a 9
10 Crystal Maze E5 6a * 2
11 High Noon
-
HS 4c 65
12 High Noon
-
f4 * 22
13 Undercut Flake f4+ * 6
14 Struggle Gully S 4a 16
  The Tower
16 Wet Paint HVS 5a 6
17 Jump Route VS 4c 141
18 Escalator D ** 186
19 Escalator Direct S 4a 200
20 Elevator Tim f5+ 22
21 Test Pilot
-
E5 6b ** 7
22 The Drain
-
HVS 4c 42
23 Asterisk
-
E2 5b ** 30
24 Asterisk Direct Start
-
HVS 4c 3
25 Asterisk Right-Hand
-
E1 5b 8
26 Unforgiven
-
E4 6a * 4
27 Purgatory
-
E5 6b 2
28 Repentance E6 6b 1
29 Last Rites E5 6a ** 2
30 Journey into Life
-
E3 5c *** 23
31 Quare Crack E1 5b *** 45
Climb name Grade
32 Destination Unknown
-
E2 5b 14
33 Yeni Gol
-
HS 4a ** 71
34 Dreams of Distance
-
E2 5c 10
35 Whole of the Moon
-
E2 6a 8
36 Yeni Gol (Variation A)
-
VS 4b 28
37 Yeni Gol (Variation B)
-
VS 4b 30
38 The Boulder
-
D 15
39 Slanting Slipper
-
VS 4a 9
40 Y-Crack Left
-
HS 4a 25
41 Y-Crack Right
-
VS 4b * 38
42 Travelling Tales
-
E1 5a 11
43 Fingerbowl S 3c *** 66
44 East Arete M ** 91
45 Eastern Craic * S 4a 1
  Summit Tor
47 73 Main Street
-
E1 5c * 80
48 Little One
-
E1 5c 17
49 King of the Mountains
-
E2 6a ** 21
50 The One They Call the White Hair
-
VS 4c 60
51 Yak-Yak
-
D 43
52 Simplicity
-
VD ** 158
53 Athene
-
VS 4b * 73
54 Miami Dolphin
-
E2 5b * 20
55 Only Fools and Horses
-
E4 6a 4
56 Ethical Backfire
-
E2 5b *** 42
57 Ethical Backfire (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5b 3
58 LA Raider
-
E1 5a * 33
59 LA Raider (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5b 5
60 Difficility
-
VS 5a * 102
61 Antar Mona
-
E5 6a 7
62 Summer's End
-
E1 5b * 51
Climb name Grade
63 Ancientcy
-
VD * 48
64 Modernity
-
VD * 73
65 Touchdown
-
E1 5c 16
66 Superbowl
-
HVS 5a * 19
67 Sudden Impact
-
HVS 5b * 26
68 The Man with no Name
-
VS 4c 22
69 Scissorhand
-
E1 5b 6
70 Liminality * E1 5a  
  South East Tor
72 Long Climb M * 20
73 Jumper
-
D 15
74 Farce Found S 6
75 Volcano VD * 50
76 Sunset
-
HS 4b ** 51
77 Messing with the Kid
-
E2 5b * 12
78 Morgan
-
VD * 58
79 Last of the Summer Wine VS 4b 35
80 Keyhole Crack
-
VD * 63
81 Ladder
-
M 33
82 Prominent Groove
-
VD 14
83 Oslo
-
D 22
  Little Cock Tor
85 Just Look
-
f5 * 14
86 The Groundsman
-
f7A * 1
87 The Boys of Summer
-
E1 5c 48
88 Cyanide and Happiness E2 5c ** 3
89 The Age of Innocence
-
HVS 5b 15
90 Mosquito Wham
-
f7A ** 3
91 The Outsider
-
E2 5c 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tprebs