Climbs 98
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Titania ** E4 6a, Ben Crom. First Ascent. © KKilroy

Crag features

Ben Crom is situated high at the end of Silent Valley, and boasts some of the best crags in the Mournes. The Main Face offers many fine climbs mainly in the HVS-E3 range while other buttresses lower down give numerous shorter routes. Single and multi pitch (10-90m). One of the most unfairly neglected crags in the Mournes, given it can be reached in just a little over an hour via the Ott Track.

Approach notes

Because the crag is very central in the Mournes, there are several approach options. Probably the most pleasant is via the Ott Track, contouring around Slieve Loughshannagh and then cutting across pathless peaty terrain (better after a dry spell) to pick up a small gravelly path that leads to the summit, and descend from there to the routes. Approx. 1hr 10 minutes.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Blue Lough River III  
  Main Face
3 Intolerance
-
E1 5b 2
4 Ignorant Armies
-
HVS 5a * 4
5 Rainbow Road
-
E4 6a ***  
6 Endless Highway
-
E1 5b * 1
7 Die Walkure
-
E3 6a *  
8 Pouter
-
VS 4c * 3
9 Firefly
-
HVS 5a ** 4
10 Planxty
-
E1 5b * 5
11 Planxty Direct
-
E2 5c * 1
12 The Dreaming Air
-
E3 6a ** 4
13 The Dreaming Air (Daydreamer Finish)
-
E3 6a **  
14 Chimney Route HS 4b * 2
15 Cancer
-
E3 6a ** 1
16 Yellow Moon
-
E4 6a **  
17 Moon Fever
-
E5 6a  
18 Pisces
-
E2 5c * 2
19 Blood Strangers
-
E3 6a *** 4
20 Aries
-
HVS 5b * 3
21 The Slug
-
E1 5b ** 3
22 The Rage of Achilles
-
E3 6a ***  
23 The Rage of Achilles Direct Finish
-
E4 6b ***  
24 Red River
-
E2 5c ** 1
25 Phil's Folly
-
VD 1
  Summit Block
27 Barnstorm
-
VS 4c 4
28 Boring Stories, Glory Days
-
HVS 5b 1
29 Forever Young
-
E3 6b  
30 Titania E4 6a ** 1
31 Oberon
-
VS 4c 3
32 Pigeon Wall
-
E5 6b **  
33 The Big Bird Shuffle
-
E4 6a  
  Round Gully
35 Golden Gate E3 5c ***  
36 Golden Wonder
-
E2 5b **  
37 Restless Eyes
-
E2 5b *** 2
Climb name Grade
38 The Great Bequeather
-
E5 6b ***  
39 Octobaby
-
E3 5c ***  
40 On the Verge
-
HVS 5b 1
41 Chicken Run
-
E3 6a  
  Boot Jam Gully
43 In Praise of Older Men
-
VD  
44 Child's Play
-
S 3c  
45 White Heather
-
S 4a 3
46 Someone Did
-
VS 4b ** 5
47 Saint Vitus Dance
-
HVS 5a  
48 Refiners Fire
-
E3 6a  
49 Question of Sport
-
HVS 5a  
  Womble Wall Area
51 An unamed route D 2
52 Sidney Fisher
-
D 4
53 The Sponge
-
VD 4
54 Bugs Bunny
-
VS 3
55 Orinoco
-
D 3
56 Raindogs
-
E1 5b 3
57 Zig Zag
-
S 3c 13
58 Travelling Rabbit
-
HS 4b 8
59 Cinnamon Girl
-
VS 4b * 10
60 Grass Harp
-
VS 4c 5
61 Texaco Gasoline
-
HS 4b 8
62 Roadside Rabbit
-
HS 4b 12
63 The Bakers VD 7
64 Common One
-
HVS 5a 2
65 Wellington
-
HS 4b 4
66 Hot Cargo
-
VS 5a * 5
67 Thomsk
-
S 4a * 4
68 Slap on the Bracelets
-
S 4a  
69 Sunburn
-
E1 5c * 4
70 In the Shade
-
HVS 5b  
71 Flexibus
-
HS 4b  
72 Samuel Beckett Said
-
E2 6a  
73 Crawl This E5 6b 1
74 Crawl That HVS 5b 2
Climb name Grade
75 Crawly Crack Crawl S 1
76 Crawly Wall Crawl
-
VS 4c 1
  Sportin' Life Buttress
78 Life
-
S 3c 2
79 Life in Sport
-
E2 6a  
80 Sportin' Life
-
VS 4c 1
81 The Linesman
-
E1 5c  
82 The Referee
-
E2 5c  
83 The Hooligan
-
E2 6a  
84 The Refugee
-
VS 5a  
85 The Bum
-
S 4a  
86 Eraser
-
E3 6a  
87 Eras-him
-
E2 6b  
  Wee Honey buttress
89 Buzz
-
E2 5c  
90 Sting
-
E3 5c  
91 Wee Honey
-
HVS 5a ** 2
92 Splat
-
HS 4b 1
  Black Wall
94 Midge
-
E5 6b  
95 Left Arete
-
S 3c 1
96 The Ramp
-
VS 4c  
97 Two Pocket Wall
-
E6 6b **  
98 Black Crack
-
E4 6a **  
  Ben Crom Bluffs
100 All Saints Day
-
VS 5a 1
101 Great Mansions
-
HS 4b 1
102 Still At It
-
E1 5b 3
103 By His Grace
-
HVS 5a * 1
104 Don't look up S 4a 1
105 Village Idiot
-
D 1
  Deluge Area
107 Deluge
-
S 4a  
  Mystery Man Area
109 Mystery Man
-
VS 4c  

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