Climbs 75
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 576m a.s.l
Faces N

origionally described as a 'sexy looking crack'... © auld al

Crag features

A reputation for looseness, combined with the aspect and steep walk-in have meant that Eagle Rocks has not been very popular. There are, however, some fine routes which are mainly single pitch (15-50m).

Care is required when scrambling off past the steep boulderfield at the top of the Upper Cliffs.

Approach notes

From Donard Park take the Glen River Track through Donard Forest. After leaving the forest, cross the Glen River and strike directly up towards the crag. Allow an hour.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Cliffs
2 Windy Crack
-
VD 2
3 The Leech
-
E5 6c ** 1
4 The Thieving Magpie
-
E2 5c 2
5 No Guts No Glory
-
VS 4c 3
6 Precipitation
-
VS 4b * 7
7 Bit Part
-
E1 5b 3
8 Piton Crack
-
S 4a * 7
9 Decadent Days
-
E1 5b 4
10 Rowan Tree
-
VD 5
11 Resonant Flakes
-
VD ** 19
12 Puppet
-
S 4a 3
13 Z Route Direct
-
S 4a * 6
  Upper Cliffs
15 A Bit on the Side
-
S 4a  
16 Muffled Oaths
-
S 3c  
17 Arete Oriental
-
S 3c  
18 Joy
-
S 3c 1
19 Ark
-
S  
20 Left Incline
-
S  
21 Double X
-
S 4a * 6
22 The Trap
-
VD  
23 Stratocumulus
-
HS 4b * 6
24 Parade
-
HS 4a * 7
25 Rolling Thunder
-
HVS 5a 3
26 Incandescent Blue
-
VS 4c 1
27 Chimney Wall
-
D * 1
28 Raven's Gully Route
-
D 4
29 Lichen
-
HS 4b * 2
30 Raven's Nest
-
HS 4b * 3
31 Late Opening
-
VS 5a * 1
32 Raven Lunatic
-
HVS 5a  
33 Determinate
-
VS 4c * 2
34 Big Wig
-
E2 5c *** 4
35 4th Generation Youth
-
E2 5c **  
36 No Quarter
-
E1 5b *  
37 Severed Finger
-
VS 4c 1
38 Justin Time
-
VS 4c 1
39 Flake Crack
-
VS 4c * 9
40 Bismuth
-
HS 4a,4b  
41 Mercy Street
-
E2 6a * 2
42 What's the Story?
-
E1 5b *** 5
43 The Cure
-
VS 4c  
44 Sorrow
-
S  
45 S.T.D.
-
HVS 5a  
46 Ding-a-Ling
-
HVS 5a  
47 Change the Script
-
E3 6a **  
48 Change the Pants
-
E5 6b ***  
49 Bonzo
-
HVS 5a  
50 Greenpeace
-
VS 4b  
51 Starlight
-
S 4a ** 7
52 Snitter
-
HVS 5b * 4
53 Arctic Dreams
-
E2 5c *  
54 The Proving Ground
-
E3 5c **  
55 Castelatus
-
E2 5c * 1
56 Aurora
-
E2 5b * 2
57 Milky Way
-
HS 4b 1
58 Galaxy Quest
-
E1 5c *  
59 Eclipse
-
VS 4c ** 5
60 Solstice
-
VS 4b  
61 Comet Buttress
-
VD  
62 Anniversary Route
-
VD  
63 Dirt Bird
-
E1 5b  
64 New Boots and Panties
-
E1 5b 1
65 West Arete
-
VD 1
66 Cannons in the Rain
-
HVS 5a ** 4
67 Cannons Left-hand Finish
-
E1 5b ** 2
68 Stalin
-
HS 4b * 4
69 Malenkov Variation
-
S 4a 1
70 The Dagger
-
D * 1
71 Eagle's Wings
-
VS  
72 Meander
-
VS  
  Grooved Buttress
74 Trident Left
-
VD * 2
75 Trident Central
-
HS 4a * 3
76 Trident Right
-
D 2
77 Xolob
-
D 2

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