Climbs 28
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces E

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Big Spider, Small Bath (7c), Lorry Park Quarry. © jondude

Crag features

This neglected quarry to the south of Matlock features a fine vertical wall of compact rock. The steep crack lines date back to the early 80's and the original sport routes were developed in the late 90's by Pete Cresswell.

The crag became somewhat neglected until 2008 when Jon Clark gave the wall a complete overhaul, re-bolting all the original sport routes and adding a handful of hard new additions. The routes are long (25m in places) and most are very sustained.

It is now an excellent venue for anyone looking to push their grade into the hard 7's.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
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Note that the council car park at the bottom of the crag has steel gates that get locked well before dark in the summer months. If you do get locked in you can get out fairly easily by removing the two bolts on the centre gate post and pulling both gates forward. Make sure you replace the bolts when done. It's also handy to have a good brush at the crag as the routes can get a bit dusty making the holds slippery.
stp - 01/Aug/15
Thanks for the advice. It does look very overgrown - its just that i work down that way often and have an hour or two to spare some times and difficult to find partners at such short notice. i use horseshoe for convenience on dropping a rope down and shunting - the routes at lorry park look terrific and people have done a great job bolting, cleaning and climbing them. If i can get strong enough would love to climb there this year. Best regards. John
john yates - 13/Jun/10
I wouldn't recommend trying to get to the top of the crag, its a bit awkward and overgrown. Best just to go with a partner.
jondude - 12/Jun/10
Went to look at the quarry today and it has some super looking routes. Is it possible to access the top of the quarry and set up a rope to shunt some of the routes? Took the footpath off the steep road in the middle of matlock, but the final few yards to the cliff edge seemed barred by dense thickets of nettles and brambles. Could the locals advise?
john yates - 10/Jun/10
Nice one Pete even with a bit more traffic it can still quiet and a bit adventurey
matt - 31/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Wild Strawberries 6c+ 19
2 On the Road 7a *** 81
3 Ground Zero 7c+ * 12
4 The Squealer 7c ** 69
5 The Squealer - Direct Finish 7c+ * 2
6 The Squealer - Super Direct 7c+ * 3
7 Supergrass 7b+ 4
8 Supercrack 7a ** 151
9 Dark Matter 8b * 3
10 Dark Energy 7c+ ** 9
Climb name Grade
11 Edge of Darkness 6b+ * 190
12 Big Spider, Small Bath 7c * 36
13 Good Time Emporium 7b ** 44
14 Shore Leave 7a+ * 102
15 Shattered Air 6b 128
16 Deceptive 7b ** 24
17 Confidence Trick 8a+ * 2
18 Sleight of Hand 7c * 6
19 Thunder Road 6c+ * 76
20 Sons of Anarchy 7c+ * 3
Climb name Grade
21 Hell's Angels 7b * 57
22 Sample the Mantel 7b * 8
23 Baron Samedi 7b+ * 4
24 Desolation Angels E5 6b * 8
25 Princess of the Streets 7a 12
26 Game On 7a+ 29
27 Go Your Own Way 7b 8
28 Roguerunner 7c 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jondude