Climbs 22
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Steve Giles contemplating the crux of Zebedee VS 5a ** © Toerag

Crag features

A long, low partially-tidal crag composed of the blue/grey Perelle Gneiss. Routes are short and clean and on good rock with good belays. Many are non-tidal, although rough seas and a westerly wind will plaster the climbs in spray. A nice crag for warm summer evenings. Topos on

Approach notes

Park by the bunker with the balanced roof and head westwards down a grassy bowl. Traverse on ledges southwards above the routes until you get to a large boulder at the top of Liberator gully. Downclimb the ledge here on the seaward side (10ft) and traverse back RWards (looking out to sea) to the crag, jumping the gully below Slimmer's Chimney. No bird restrictions.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 ?????? HS  
2 Zig Zag S 5
3 Zephyr D 1
4 Flakey Wall HVS 4c 2
5 Battle of the Bulge
HVS 5a 3
6 Hanois Roof E1 5b 3
7 Hanois Arete VS 4b 4
8 Retch S * 4
Climb name Grade
9 Erehwon
HVS 5a 4
10 Zebedee VS 5a ** 2
11 Dying Spark
HVS 5a 3
12 Dougal HS 4b 1
13 Ember Crack
D 9
14 Ember Crack (Variation)
E1 5a 2
15 Sparklet
S 10
16 Bridgeit the Midget VS 4b 8
Climb name Grade
17 Nipper
VD 8
18 The Poison Dwarf
VD 4b 22
19 Monopod
HS 4b 19
20 Pedagogue
E1 5b 5
21 Piper HVS 5b 10
22 Slimmer's Chimney
D 11

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