Climbs 22
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Steve Giles contemplating the crux of Zebedee VS 5a ** © Toerag

Crag features

A long, low partially-tidal crag composed of the blue/grey Perelle Gneiss. Routes are short and clean and on good rock with good belays. Many are non-tidal, although rough seas and a westerly wind will plaster the climbs in spray. A nice crag for warm summer evenings. Topos on

Approach notes

Park by the bunker with the balanced roof and head westwards down a grassy bowl. Traverse on ledges southwards above the routes until you get to a large boulder at the top of Liberator gully. Downclimb the ledge here on the seaward side (10ft) and traverse back RWards (looking out to sea) to the crag, jumping the gully below Slimmer's Chimney. No bird restrictions.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2Zig ZagS 5
3ZephyrD 1
4Flakey WallHVS 4c 2
5Battle of the Bulge
HVS 5a 3
6Hanois RoofE1 5b 3
7Hanois AreteVS 4b 4
8RetchS *4
HVS 5a 4
10ZebedeeVS 5a **2
11Dying Spark
HVS 5a 3
12DougalHS 4b 1
13Ember Crack
D 9
14Ember Crack (Variation)
E1 5a 2
S 9
16Bridgeit the MidgetVS 4b 8
VD 7
18The Poison Dwarf
VD 4b 22
HS 4b 19
E1 5b 5
21PiperHVS 5b 11
22Slimmer's Chimney
D 11

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