Climbs 35
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent, Little Chris on pitch 4 © Toerag

Crag features

An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.

Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.

Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.

A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on

Approach notes

No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1PhiladelphiaS 1
2ThrillerE4 6a **2
3Ashes to AshesE1 5b 5
4Salai Direct StartHVS 4c 1
5SalaiVS 4c *7
6Unknown NameE3 5b ** 
7Take the StoneE5 6b ** 
8Sword in the StoneE5 6a/b ** 
9IncensedE6 6b  
10Pull Harder Still!E3 5c  
11ExcaliburE1 5b **13
12Prospector a.k.a. Dead Metal HungerE5 6b ** 
13Desecration (post-rockfall)E1 5a 4
14GuinevereE2 5b *1
15CabochonE3 5c  
16PagasusHVS 5a 2
17MercuryE1 5b 3
18Have Fun Going BlindE2 5b * 
19IcarusE1 5a 2
20Icarus, variationHVS 5a 1
21GorgonD 1
22The Knights that say 'Raad!'E2 5b *4
 Skin Flicks Stack 
24Skin FlicksS  
25Murphy's LawHS 4c  
27Laurel & HardyS  
28FascinationHS 4b  
29Broken FingerVS 4c  
30Conan the VegetarianVS 4c  
31Born to be a Barnaclenone  
32Gollum's Groovenone  
34Heels over HeadV3 ***2
35Rowan AtkinsonV3 *2
36Power PinchV6 **1
37JoustingV1 **1
 Unsorted climbs 

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