Climbs 35
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent, Little Chris on pitch 4 © Toerag

Crag features

An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.

Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.

Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.

A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on www.gmc.org.gg

Approach notes

No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Philadelphia S 1
2 Thriller E4 6a ** 2
3 Ashes to Ashes E1 5b 5
4 Salai Direct Start HVS 4c 1
5 Salai VS 4c * 7
6 Unknown Name E3 5b **  
7 Take the Stone E5 6b **  
8 Sword in the Stone E5 6a/b **  
9 Incensed E6 6b  
10 Pull Harder Still! E3 5c  
11 Excalibur E1 5b ** 13
12 Prospector a.k.a. Dead Metal Hunger E5 6b **  
13 Desecration (post-rockfall) E1 5a 4
14 Guinevere E2 5b * 1
15 Cabochon E3 5c  
16 Pagasus HVS 5a 2
17 Mercury E1 5b 3
18 Have Fun Going Blind E2 5b *  
19 Icarus E1 5a 2
20 Icarus, variation HVS 5a 1
21 Gorgon D 1
22 The Knights that say 'Raad!' E2 5b * 4
  Skin Flicks Stack
24 Skin Flicks S  
25 Murphy's Law HS 4c  
26 E.P. S  
27 Laurel & Hardy S  
28 Fascination HS 4b  
29 Broken Finger VS 4c  
30 Conan the Vegetarian VS 4c  
31 Born to be a Barnacle none  
32 Gollum's Groove none  
  Bouldering
34 Heels over Head V3 *** 2
35 Rowan Atkinson V3 * 2
36 Power Pinch V6 ** 1
37 Jousting V1 ** 1
  Unsorted climbs

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