UKC

Climbs 121
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 17m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Cosmos crack E3 5a © Nath8

Crag features

Another Perelle Gneiss crag with clean rock and some cracking routes, mostly wall/corner/arete/chimney lines between 40 & 90ft, but some are longer.

Although most routes can be climbed around 1/2 tide, the gullies between the belay platforms flood before then so you might need to abseil in. Some routes have pitons in them from the mid-1980s, these are deemed to be untrustworthy!

A large rockfall in 2003 has destroyed some of the routes between Fishmarket and Prolapse.

Access Advice

No bird restrictions, although seagulls nest on the descent scrambles. A few Shag's nests are denoted by the large areas of guano, please avoid these.

The clay pigeon shooting club own the land west of the approach fields, this includes the Grey slab, Detritus Zawn & Subsidiary Gully areas. They shoot on some evenings and weekend mornings. If they are shooting, then you must use the new path which cuts down directly from the lowest point of the cliff path below the watch house then contours along the top of the cliffs. Please do not upset the shooters by taking the path through the fields as shown in the guidebooks.

Their shooting programmes can be found on their website, but be aware that they do shoot at other times as well.

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Climbs at this crag

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