Climbs 10
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Steve Giles about to commence the annual gardening session! © Toerag

Crag features

A good little cliff, mostly clean solid rock although the routes high up in the gully are not so appealing. Climbs are mostly slabs or corner routes, some are tidal. It's easy to climb here and at Hanois cliff and Excalibur Buttress as they all use the same descents and are 100m apart.

Approach notes

At low tide use the Hanois cliff approach and scramble round to the base of the climbs from the north, once these flood either abseil in from the boulder on the ledge or use the Excalibur butress 'cocopop rock' gully approach.

No bird bans, although shags sometimes nest in the top of the gully, so avoid those routes in spring.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sleepwalker D  
2 Dreams of Cream VD 2
3 Sour Kraut
-
D 4
4 Victory Vee HVS 5b 4
5 Victory Vee (variation finish) HVS 4c  
6 Liberation Crack
-
S 15
7 Directissima E1 5a  
8 Petit Surplomb
-
VS 4c 7
9 Prussian Blues E2 5c  

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