Climbs 28
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces S

JB goes for a boulder © jon bell

Crag features

The highest crag in the island, unfortunately the rock quality's not the best and West Slab is well vegetated now. Anyone bothering to clean the crag will no doubt be able to put up some long new routes.

BOULDERING - Below the car park is a boulder field. A few interesting problems can be found here, however the best problems are located on a cave on the western side of the boulder field. The cave has a very good looking harder problem (possibly 8B or harder) however these problems are often wet.

Approach notes

No bird restrictions, but no doubt seagulls and shags nest on or around the climbs. Avoid the shags' nests.
All routes are non-tidal in calm conditions, however West slab and Lower buttress will need abseil approaches when the tide's in.
The boulder field is best accessed by following a path down and right (looking out to sea) of the battery, then abseiling down a long grass slope.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Slab / Lower Buttress
2 Seconds Away
-
HVS 4c  
3 Wild Thing
-
E1 5b  
4 Time & Tide
-
S 1
5 The Road to Ruin
-
E2 5b  
6 Zero and Blind Terry
-
VS 4c *  
7 Proverbial Breakdown
-
HVS 5a  
8 Wait
-
HS 4b 1
9 Crystal Groove
-
E1 5b  
10 Urban Guerilla
-
E1 5c  
11 For No Man
-
S 3
12 The Caped Crusader
-
HVS 5a *  
13 Alchemy
-
E1 5b  
14 Black Shag
-
HS 4b  
15 Manadala
-
VS 4b  
16 Caroline
-
HVS 4c *  
17 Figaro
-
VS 4b  
18 Janus
-
HVS 5a  
  Barrel Buttress
20 Temperance Row
-
VD  
21 One for the Road
-
HVS 5a  
22 Evening Orificer
-
S  
23 Dangerous Driving
-
HVS 5a  
24 Tonic
-
HS 4b  
25 On the Rocks
-
HS 4b  
  Bouldering
27 JB goes for a Boulder f5+ 1
28 All on Crown V5 * 1
29 Crown and Anchor V7 *** 1
30 All on Anchor V8+ *** 1
31 Schni Schna Schnappi V8 *** 1

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