Climbs 15
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces S

JB goes for a boulder © jon bell

Crag features

The highest crag in the island, unfortunately the rock quality's not the best and West Slab is well vegetated now. Anyone bothering to clean the crag will no doubt be able to put up some long new routes.

BOULDERING - Below the car park is a boulder field. A few interesting problems can be found here, however the best problems are located on a cave on the western side of the boulder field. The cave has a very good looking harder problem (possibly 8B or harder) however these problems are often wet.

Approach notes

No bird restrictions, but no doubt seagulls and shags nest on or around the climbs. Avoid the shags' nests.

All routes are non-tidal in calm conditions, however West slab and Lower buttress will need abseil approaches when the tide's in.

The boulder field is best accessed by following a path down and right (looking out to sea) of the battery, then abseiling down a long grass slope.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Slab 
HVS 4c * 
 Lower Buttress 
4Time & Tide
S 1
5Proverbial Breakdown
HVS 5a  
HS 4b 1
7For No Man
S 3
 Barrel Buttress 
9Dangerous Driving
HVS 5a  
10JB goes for a Boulderf5+ 1
11All on CrownV5 *1
12Crown and AnchorV7 ***1
13All on AnchorV8+ ***1
14Schni Schna SchnappiV8 ***1

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