Climbs 34
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Crag features

5 areas here - Ocean wall at sea level, the Lower tier which is non-tidal, the Upper tier which is above that, and Cave wall west and east across the back of the bay (tidal). Rock quality varies with the best low down and the worst high up.

Approach notes

Ask the GMC to show you the way, it's a bit convoluted to describe here. The guidebook is correct. The direct/abseil descent to Cave wall will be totally overgrown now. Good fisherman's ropes exist on the way down to Ocean wall and the upper & lower tiers - the upper rope in the gully was new in 2008, the lower rope needed a bit of work in 2009 but isn't essential. No climbing here due to bird restrictions in nesting season (easter - July).

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cave Wall West
2 Lucifer
-
E3 5c *  
3 Mephistopheles
-
E1 5b *  
  Cave Wall East
5 Rollercoaster
-
E2 5c  
6 Dipper Ride
-
HVS 4b  
  Lower Tier
8 Renoir in chalk E5 6b ***  
9 Militant tendency
-
E2 5c  
10 Middle Of The Road E2 5b 1
11 New Socialist E1 5a 1
12 Capitalist Corner
-
HVS 5a  
13 Return to the Trees
-
HS  
14 Revolution
-
HS  
15 Apathetic
-
D  
16 Streethawk
-
S  
  Upper Tier
18 Ermine Street
-
HVS 5a  
19 Easy Street
-
D  
20 Forsaken Gardens
-
S  
21 Cirkus
-
VS 4c  
22 Sprint Finish HS 4b * 1
23 Stage Fright
-
HS 4b  
24 The Fall Guy
-
HVS 4c  
25 The Cunning Lingerers
-
HVS 5a  
26 Green Gully
-
D  
27 Cutlass Ridge
-
S  
28 Pig's Ear
-
S 1
  Ocean Wall
30 Ship Of Fools
-
E1 5b  
31 Gog
-
D  
32 Magog
-
E1 5b  
33 In Camera
-
HS 4c 1
34 Faculty X
-
VD 3
35 Tracker
-
S  
36 Comet
-
D  
37 Echopraxis
-
E1 5b  
38 The Sneaker
-
HS 4b  
39 Nobody's Business
-
HS 4b  

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