Climbs 30
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Crag features

4 areas here - Ocean wall at sea level, the Lower tier which is non-tidal, the Upper tier which is above that, and Cave wall across the back of the bay (tidal). Rock quality varies with the best low down and the worst high up.

Approach notes

Ask the GMC to show you the way, it's a bit convoluted to describe here. The guidebook is correct. The direct/abseil descent to Cave wall will be totally overgrown now. Good fisherman's ropes exist on the way down to Ocean wall and the upper & lower tiers - the upper rope in the gully was new in 2008, the lower rope needed a bit of work in 2009 but isn't essential. No climbing here due to bird restrictions in nesting season (easter - July).

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cave Wall 
E3 5c  
 Lower Tier (the slab) 
4Renoir in chalkE5 6b *** 
5Militant tendency
E2 5c  
 Upper Tier 
 Ocean Wall 
E1 5b  
9Gog *
10Faculty X *
VD 1
11In Camera *
HS 4c 1
12Ship Of Fools *
E1 5b  
13Middle Of The Road *E2 5b 1
14New Socialist *E1 5a 1
15Sprint Finish *HS 4b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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