UKC

Climbs 116
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Jackson at the crux of Debauchery, High Tor © Gordon Stainforth

Crag features

Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) Highlight (HVS 5a) and especially Original Route (HVS 5a) are well worth doing.

Although justifiably best known as a Trad crag the Right Wing has been extensively bolted in recent years by Gary Gibson to give a range of lower grade Sport routes. On the Main Face there are a selection of harder Sport routes in the Castellan Cave area and similarly on the Left Wing High Torquing and Wil E Coyote are fully bolted. Of note Mad Max and Roadrunner on the Left Wing are both "Sporty" being mainly protected by fixed gear.

 

Approach notes

From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).
For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 New World Order E1 5b 7
3 World's End E4 6a * 20
4 No Entry E4 6a ** 25
5 China Spring E4 6a * 16
6 Yellow Brick Road E4 6b ** 22
7 Amber Gambler E4 6a *** 45
8 A6 E4 6a ** 28
9 Beep E5 6a * 5
10 High Torquing 7c+ ** 3
11 Fury Road 8a ** 2
12 Roadrunner E6 6b ** 9
13 Wil E. Coyote 7c+ ** 6
14 M1 E2 5b *** 152
15 Bleep
-
E2 5c 3
16 Mad Max E6 6b ** 9
17 Delta-G E4 6a *** 30
18 V2 E5 6b ** 6
19 Entropy VS 4c ** 87
20 Layby HVS 5b 6
21 Once in a Millennium E3 6a * 6
22 The Girdle Traverse
-
E5 6b *** 3
23 Shah Shah a Go Go
-
E3 5b 2
24 Statement of Yof
-
E2 5c  
25 Enthalpy
-
HVS 4c  
26 Sting Ray
-
HVS 5a  
27 Hanging Block
-
HVS 5b 2
28 Night Owl E2 5c 6
29 Cold Turkey
-
E1 5a 1
30 Freeway * E6 6b 2
31 Peaky Blinder. * 7c+ ** 2
  Main Face
33 High Tour
-
E3 5c * 4
34 High Tor Gully VD 13
35 Penelope Pitstop
-
6b  
36 Lumb Lane
-
HVS 4c 2
37 Lamplight HVS 5a ** 160
38 Sportlight 7a * 16
39 Searchlight
-
E3 5c 3
40 Highlight HVS 5a *** 400
Climb name Grade
41 Approach Pitch 6b 5
42 Armalite E4 5c 1
43 Skylight VS 4c *** 419
44 Fantasia E5 6b *** 3
45 Plight of the Rich 7a+ 5
46 Light Entertainment E4 5c 2
47 Light and Shade 7a+ * 5
48 Light and Shade Right-hand Start 7b+ * 1
49 Pump out the Squealies 7b+ ** 7
50 Squeezin' Out Sparks 7c 3
51 Limelight 8b ** 3
52 Castellan E5 6b *** 19
53 Big Cigar 7c ** 2
54 Laurin E3 6a *** 53
55 Nightmare of Brown Donkeys E3 5c *** 76
56 The Phrantic Phinish
-
E4 5c 6
57 Party in the Park E5 6b * 7
58 Hot Gossip E5 6a * 5
59 Delicatessen E2 5c *** 255
60 The Grapevine E5 6b * 3
61 Lyme Cryme E3 5c *** 175
62 Dementia E5 6a ** 1
63 Brompton's Cocktail E5 6b * 4
64 Happy Hour E6 6c * 1
65 Johnny Brown E5 6a * 1
66 Harvey Wallbanger E5 6b * 1
67 Robert Brown E3 5c ** 176
68 Ariadne's Thread E5 6b * 5
69 Darius E2 5c *** 442
70 Debauchery E1 5b *** 732
71 Andromeda E3 6a 7
72 Perseus E3 5c ** 157
73 The Unoriginal Route
-
E5 6a 2
74 Original Route HVS 5a *** 717
75 Original Route Direct Start
-
E1 5b *** 57
76 Tales of Yankee Power E5 6a *** 125
77 Flaky Wall E4 6a *** 205
78 Aegis E6 6b/c **  
79 Reproduction E6 6b *** 17
80 Supersonic E5 6a *** 175
Climb name Grade
81 My New Hat E6 6c 1
82 Bastille E6 6b *** 27
83 Tumbril E5 6a 3
84 The Passion Wagon E5 6b * 2
85 Decadence E4 6a *** 46
86 The Pillar E5 6a * 12
87 Pillar Direct E4 6a * 8
88 Cathy Come Home E1 5b 6
  Right Wing
90 M.U.G.S. Route
-
HVS  
91 No Way 6b+ 8
92 My Way 7a+ 3
93 Lee Way E5 6b 1
94 Wezzy Wonks
-
HVS 1
95 Sideways 6c 1
96 All the Wubble u's E3 5c 2
97 Zed Legs E2 5b * 38
98 That X Factor E4 6a * 24
99 Y-Front E2 5b * 52
100 Corner Buttress
-
E1 5b 1
101 Memories 6a * 212
102 Boycott
-
E1 5b 2
103 Dutch Moon 6b * 165
104 Venus Eruptus 6c+ * 88
105 Black Wedding E5 6a  
106 Sargasso Sea E4 5c 1
107 Saga Lout 6b+ * 161
108 Endgame 6c+ * 105
109 Scimitar Groove VS 4c ** 53
110 My Pedigree Chum 6a 160
111 Scoobs 6c * 96
112 Pride E2 5b * 26
113 Lulu Belle E4 6a  
114 Memo to Sally E3 5c * 26
115 If Dill Was Here 6b 98
116 Still Searching E2 5b 12
117 Beautiful White E3 5c * 10
118 Lower Buttress Route E3 5c * 8
119 At the Edge of Everything E2 5c 7
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83