Climbs 52
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces SE

In the morning sun © auld al

Crag features

The rock here has a columnar formation and dries quickly after rain. The routes are all single-pitch, up to 30m and mostly follow crack lines offering good protection. Some of the easier routes are loose and should be treated with caution. Best routes are:Lucky Strike VS**,Reprisal* VS Kleptomaniac VS**, Harry VS**, Debbie VS**, Deadline HVS**,Clearway and Vindication E1**.

Approach notes

The crag is roadside and situated just south of Ballygalley village on the Antrim Coast Road.

The roadside nature of the crag has its drawbacks, and the occupiers of the surrounding land, Ballygalley Golf Club have withdrawn their permission for climbing to carry on. Their fears stem from any liability they may have if climbers on their land cause an accident to road users.

The FMCI has requested that any climbers exercise caution if climbing on the crag. The main hazards to road users stem from stones being knocked down. For descent you can use lower offs above Reprisal or Deadline

Guidebooks

road closed 22 sept 2014 for 8 weeks
auld al - 05/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Tapiola VD 2
2 W.C. VD 4
3 Iky Mo S 17
4 Slipskid E1 5c 5
5 Lucky Strike VS 5a ** 17
6 Reprisal VS 4c ** 29
7 Sabre S * 12
8 Astronaut S 5
9 Hammer S 2
10 Quiet Times HVS 5b 2
11 Postie VS 5a * 3
12 Rupert Bear and Bright Red Wellies HVS 5b * 3
13 Warm Up VS 4b 6
14 Cigarete
-
HVS 5a 2
15 American Beauty VD * 11
16 Lunar Probe VD 2
17 Germinal MVS 4b * 4
18 Dirty Sox VS 4b * 4
19 Silent Runing HS 4b 3
20 Pocket HVS 5a * 3
21 Blackballed
-
E2 5c * 2
22 Full Tilt Boogie Crack HVS 5b 1
23 Days of Heaven HVS 5a 2
24 Illegal HS 4b 4
25 Dire Straights E3 5c * 1
26 Vindication E1 5b *** 8
27 Cat's Eyes VS 4c ** 6
28 Night Flight E1 5b * 5
29 Deadline HVS 5a *** 16
30 Kleptomaniac VS 4c ** 8
31 These Foolish things HVS 5b * 2
32 Star Spangled Banner HVS 5b ** 8
33 Clearway E1 5b ** 7
34 Chancery
-
HS 4b * 6
35 Singer HVS 5b 2
36 Fina VD 2
37 Equity MS 1
38 Harry VS 4c *** 14
39 Debbie VS 4c ** 9
40 Dodgems VS 4b 4
41 Close to the Edge HVS 5b * 2
42 Roadside Attraction HVS 5a * 2
43 Mister Guilty HVS 5a ** 2
44 Nokey's ArĂȘte HVS 5a 2

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