Climbs 100
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 289m a.s.l
Faces E

John's intro to Germany cragging © Malpractise

Crag features

Over 100 routes with grades from 2 to 8 mostly in the 4 to 7 range.

All single pitch with single/double lower off bolts. Possible to top out and walk off.

The crag is around 25m high.

All routes are bolted in a German style, generaly bolted around the cruxes of routes, a small rack is necessary.

Largest crag in the area so can get busy at weekends.

Beware of sections of loose rock, these are usually quite obvious, with some sectors or routes having been closed off.

Approach notes

No restrictions

Approaches: From South, follow signs to Bingen and then foolw B9 toward Koblenz/St Goar. After around 5m, turn left up a dirt track following signs for Gerhardshof. Car Park is approx 2km up the track. From North, head towards Trechtinghausen on the B9. After 1km turn right up the dirt track towards Gerhardshof. Watch for the ruts!

Park at the large car park. Crag is approx 5 - 10 mins walk from the DAV notice board.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Kluverwand
2 Big Wall
-
VII  
3 Linke Soomrisswand
-
V+ 1
4 Soomkante
-
V+  
5 Jowokante
-
IV 1
6 Jowoweg
-
V+  
  Regensburger Wand
8 Regensburger Wand
-
VI- 1
9 Wiesbadener Verschneidung
-
IV 2
10 Zitronelimonadenweg
-
VII  
11 Vier-Manner-Wand
-
VI+ 1
12 English Breakfast
-
VI  
13 Drei-Haken-Quergang
-
VI-  
14 Kamin
-
III  
15 Verlangerrung(insgesamt)
-
VI  
16 Sachsenriss Nr.1
-
III+  
17 Sachsenwand
-
V 1
18 Bob's Corner
-
III 2
19 Zickzackriss
-
V 1
20 Sachsenriss Nr.2
-
III  
21 Kim's Way
-
V 1
  Herkules
23 Herkulesfuhre
-
A1  
24 Freie Variante
-
VIII-  
25 Holzkeilriss
-
VI+  
26 Bubsi
-
VIII  
  Frakfurter Wand
28 Maxitus
-
V+  
29 Maxitus Direkt
-
VII-  
30 Kleine Frankfurter
-
V 1
31 Kasschachtel
-
V 1
32 Neue Frankfurter Direkte
-
VI+  
33 Nosferatu
-
VII  
34 Sumpfbiber
-
VII- ** 2
35 Aprilscherz
-
VI+  
36 Ochsenchwanzsuppe
-
VII *  
37 Alte Frankfurter Direkte
-
VI+ *  
38 Alte Frankfurter Normale
-
IV+ * 1
39 Himmelspfortchen
-
VIII-  
40 Hollentor
-
VI-  
41 Ubers Wappen
-
VII-  
42 Ameisenriss
-
VI+  
43 Fegefeuer
-
VI-  
  Schinderhannes
45 Weg der Barmherzigkeit
-
VII- **  
46 Schinderhannesweg
-
VI *  
47 Success
-
VII  
48 Panzerknacker
-
VIII+  
49 Teufelsloch
-
VI  
  Hakenrisse
51 Mauvais Pas
-
III+ 1
52 Turmchenvariante
-
V+  
53 Einstiegsvariante
-
V  
54 Regenkante
-
VII+  
55 Weg des Hammers
-
VI- 3
56 Funf-Haken-Riss
-
V+ 3
57 Direkter Einstieg
-
V+ 2
58 Zwei-Haken-Riss
-
V- ** 3
59 Gilt Nicht!
-
VII- 1
60 Kiefernriss
-
III  
61 Vier-Haken-Wand
-
VI- ** 2
62 Federweisser
-
III 2
63 Einsame Wand
-
III ** 3
  Wappenwand
65 Birkenrisswand
-
IV+ 3
66 Birkenriss
-
III+ 1
67 Grosse Kante
-
IV * 3
68 Direkter Einstieg
-
V- 3
69 Wappenwand
-
V * 2
70 Namenloser Riss
-
IV+ 3
71 Jakobsleiter
-
III 1
72 Weinertkante
-
V- ** 7
73 Vier-Haken-Riss
-
IV+ 3
74 Rallyestreifen
-
VI+ * 6
75 Uberholspur
-
III 1
  Mainzer Turm (Westseite)
77 Normalweg
-
III  
78 Linker Bauch
-
V+ 1
79 Mittlerer Bauch
-
VI- 1
80 Sudwand-Direkte
-
III+ 1
81 Direkter Einstieg
-
III 1
82 Rechter Bauch (Nahmaschine)
-
VI- 4
  Mainzer Turm (Bachseite)
84 Linke Bachkante
-
V+ 1
85 Rechte Bachkante
-
VI-  
86 Pumplippe
-
VII  
87 Direkter Einstieg
-
VI-  
  Mainzer Turm (Rheinseite)
89 Linke Rheinseite
-
V+ * 2
90 Rheinseite-Direkte
-
IV ** 3
91 Kuhlenkampf
-
V+ 2

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